What did you do with your classic T4R today?
- Thread starter coloradodave
- Start date
1. First I fixed my squeaky steering wheel by pulling it off, sanding the ring, and putting on a nice coat of dielectric grease. No more nails on the chalkboard (no pictures, sorry).
2. Next, in lieu of waiting for backordered OEM tailgate hinge holders/clips to stop the rattle in the back, I went to a bike store and got some 1.75" busted bike tubes for free, cut them, and put them around my tailgate hinges. No more awful rattles!
3. I mounted new wheels and tires on my 1985 4Runner (BFG A/T KO2 - 31.5" x 10.5" on American Racing 15"x8" black wheels). Then, I took it on it's first off-road adventure since getting it road legal 2 weeks ago.
4. Then I did a 2 stage plastic and vinyl cleaning and restore (CarGuys products) on the dash and doors. I installed possibly the nicest brown OEM dash pad left on this Earth, and wow, what a difference.
Before:
After:
5. Finally, I shattered my front console by literally looking at it the wrong way, and now I'm searching for buried treasure in trying to find a new one. If anyone has any leads on one please let me know!
2. Next, in lieu of waiting for backordered OEM tailgate hinge holders/clips to stop the rattle in the back, I went to a bike store and got some 1.75" busted bike tubes for free, cut them, and put them around my tailgate hinges. No more awful rattles!
3. I mounted new wheels and tires on my 1985 4Runner (BFG A/T KO2 - 31.5" x 10.5" on American Racing 15"x8" black wheels). Then, I took it on it's first off-road adventure since getting it road legal 2 weeks ago.
4. Then I did a 2 stage plastic and vinyl cleaning and restore (CarGuys products) on the dash and doors. I installed possibly the nicest brown OEM dash pad left on this Earth, and wow, what a difference.
Before:
After:
5. Finally, I shattered my front console by literally looking at it the wrong way, and now I'm searching for buried treasure in trying to find a new one. If anyone has any leads on one please let me know!
Funny story, I was driving back from looking at this 4Runner and paying the guy for it, when I stopped to get lunch and immediately started browsing Ebay for a dashboard. And one was actually there for sale, so I splurged and bought it immediately. I was really happy the color was not faded as I was just going to be happy if it had no cracks or tears.
Bad day
My 87 took a hit today. I stopped to help a gal that was in an accident and then our trusted BP found it tough to look at the road while driving. Look at that nice clean metal under the once nice factory paint.
I'm pretty sure the bumper and plastics are no longer available never mind the quarter panel. Lets see how this plays out....
My 87 took a hit today. I stopped to help a gal that was in an accident and then our trusted BP found it tough to look at the road while driving. Look at that nice clean metal under the once nice factory paint.
I'm pretty sure the bumper and plastics are no longer available never mind the quarter panel. Lets see how this plays out....
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Madrid1214
New member
In the process of find a 3.4 to swap my 3.slow. Also was able to fix my rear window and sunroof recently so I’m pretty excited about that.
Last weekend, I worked on eliminating rattles and deadening sound on my front doors. First I replaced the 34 year old door/window seals with OEM seals from the dealer (note: the retainer clips are already in the seals, don't buy 34 extra's like I did). This was a pain in the butt to get the 17 old clips out of each door. There was no way of doing this without marking up the paint somehow. At least it's under the seal and can't be seen. I used a combination of a Dremel cut off (melted and slung plastic everywhere), plastic trim tool (useless), metal pry tool covered with electrical tape (worked the best), and pliers.
Next, I used Noico 80 mil sound deadener on the outer door skin. This was tedious and my first time ever doing sound proofing. I then noticed on the passenger door with the extra door handle, there was rattling of the latch rod due to the extra components stressing the system (no noise on driver side). So I put some of the sound deadener on the cavity where the rod would hit, then used some older vacuum lines slipped onto the rod. This whole project was by far the most satisfying cosmetic work I've done. The door closes like a Lexus now. I can even hear a difference when locking the door as there is a thud when the lock button goes down. I will be doing this all over the entire truck, especially the rear tailgate and quarter panels. I urge everyone else to at least do the doors, a box of Noico 80 mil is about $65 and I still have enough left to do the tailgate. Dynamat was almost twice the money for the same amount.
Lastly, my front seatbelt metal pieces that go into the floor were horribly rusted (as were the bolts, still need to source them but proving impossible if anyone has any ideas). So I carefully wire wheeled with a Dremel (useless, wires fly off after 60 seconds) and a full size drill wire wheel combination. Then I proceeded to prime each side, moving the seatbelt after each drying session to cover all the metal. This was also tedious as you can't remove the seatbelt so it just takes time. Hoping to find some plastic cup washers to place between the bolt and the newly painted bracket as it's always moving around so as not to destroy the paint. Used a brown that is a 90% match to the darker brown plastic in the interior trim pieces.
Next, I used Noico 80 mil sound deadener on the outer door skin. This was tedious and my first time ever doing sound proofing. I then noticed on the passenger door with the extra door handle, there was rattling of the latch rod due to the extra components stressing the system (no noise on driver side). So I put some of the sound deadener on the cavity where the rod would hit, then used some older vacuum lines slipped onto the rod. This whole project was by far the most satisfying cosmetic work I've done. The door closes like a Lexus now. I can even hear a difference when locking the door as there is a thud when the lock button goes down. I will be doing this all over the entire truck, especially the rear tailgate and quarter panels. I urge everyone else to at least do the doors, a box of Noico 80 mil is about $65 and I still have enough left to do the tailgate. Dynamat was almost twice the money for the same amount.
Lastly, my front seatbelt metal pieces that go into the floor were horribly rusted (as were the bolts, still need to source them but proving impossible if anyone has any ideas). So I carefully wire wheeled with a Dremel (useless, wires fly off after 60 seconds) and a full size drill wire wheel combination. Then I proceeded to prime each side, moving the seatbelt after each drying session to cover all the metal. This was also tedious as you can't remove the seatbelt so it just takes time. Hoping to find some plastic cup washers to place between the bolt and the newly painted bracket as it's always moving around so as not to destroy the paint. Used a brown that is a 90% match to the darker brown plastic in the interior trim pieces.
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Tinman1985
New member
SomeDay
New member
Share more info about that, please!
Gasket part number, the mods he had to do, the guy birthday, etc.
Replacing the windshield chrome molding with a rubber gasket is a complicated thing to do IMHO.
Tinman1985
New member
Nothing was modified. He ordered me a new windshield, the original idea was to try and save the old one, but after watching him take the old one out there is about a 99% chance it will crack no matter how careful you are. He took a good 30 minutes with a grinder and got rid of the rust build up, mine had a little more due to a few small leaks. He then used a paint/primer that dries instantly and promotes adhesion of the glue.
The rubber molding was a universal part he just had in his van. It just pushes on to the windshield edge all the way around. It does kink some on the top 2 edges of the windshield, but once it is glued and put in the car you are able to pull the edges back out with a pick and push the window down. The adhesive dries almost instantly so once you give it a good push down it sets in nice.
He did say most big box companies wouldn't touch something like mine, so your best bet is to find a smaller company with someone who has been doing it forever.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Nice!
85 was the fastest I saw, but that's not bad at all.
I'm new to T4R.org and the site won't let me start a new thread so I'm asking on this one:
Does anyone know if LH and RH lower ball joints for a 95 4Runner are interchangeable? They do have different part numbers. I've done the RH (passenger side) and I'm preparing to do the LH, but I see that I crossed up the parts - I installed the ball joint with LH part number on the RH side. Wondering if I need to rectify that or if they're really the same.
Thanks!
Does anyone know if LH and RH lower ball joints for a 95 4Runner are interchangeable? They do have different part numbers. I've done the RH (passenger side) and I'm preparing to do the LH, but I see that I crossed up the parts - I installed the ball joint with LH part number on the RH side. Wondering if I need to rectify that or if they're really the same.
Thanks!
4Reak Show
New member
Pretty sure they're interchangeable. I bet the only difference is the angle of the zerk fitting or something minor like that. I carry spare parts when I go on a trip and I only one upper and one lower ball joint. Rock auto only listed either upper or lower, never a lower right or lower left.
That's my theory.
That's my theory.
Thanks for the response. I believe you are right.
RockAuto gives Beck/Arnely alternate/OEM Part Number(s) 4334039245 and 4333039835 which are the OEM LH & RH part numbers.
Thanks for the tip.
HiluxSurfBC
New member
I bought one today, so thats a pretty cool thing i guess :hat:
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