When will the Bilstein 6112 be released?

I wonder if your situation could be remedied about them just including two more L shaped bolts to go in the non-threaded holes on your frame.

They're sending me some additional hardware but they didn't sound too confident in it working. I may just have the shop that's going to do the TC cam gussets weld it on like in the article.
 
I did the on vehicle method today with KDSS. The KDSS makes it a little more work but I had a second floor jack to place under the piston to jack around as needed and did use a ratchet strap. No to big of a deal. A first timer could expect to spend an hour or so doing this.
 
They're sending me some additional hardware but they didn't sound too confident in it working. I may just have the shop that's going to do the TC cam gussets weld it on like in the article.
Getting the TC cam gussets as well, can't tell if they went out during the install or if they've been bad since the Jamboree last year. Any quotes on the work yet?
 
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Getting the TC cam gussets as well, can't tell if they went out during the install or if they've been bad since the Jamboree last year. Any quotes on the work yet?

I went out today and got 3 quotes from TC authorized dealers. ($450, $550 and $690) The most expensive shop is quite an impressive place. I would like to go with them but they have a 2 week waiting list. I'm waiting to hear back from the shop that screwed it up in the first place to see how much they're going to pay.


On a side note, I finally got the reservoirs installed with the extra hardware Bilstein sent. Seems to work out ok.
 

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I went out today and got 3 quotes from TC authorized dealers. ($450, $550 and $690) The most expensive shop is quite an impressive place. I would like to go with them but they have a 2 week waiting list. I'm waiting to hear back from the shop that screwed it up in the first place to see how much they're going to pay.


On a side note, I finally got the reservoirs installed with the extra hardware Bilstein sent. Seems to work out ok.


I hope you have a good outcome and they pay without issue.

In the event that someone has the same issue, please inform us as to how they corrected the issue of the frame not having a threaded nut for your install of the remote reservoir.
Looks like they sent a couple more "L" bolts..... is that correct?
 
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I hope you have a good outcome and they pay without issue.

Please inform us as to how they corrected the issue of the frame not having a threaded nut for your install of the remote reservoir.
Looks like they sent a couple more "L" bolts..... is that correct?
You are correct. I sent this to Bilstein as feedback.

The extra L hardware works about 90%.

Here are my observations:

1. A hammer is required to get the L bolt into the "unthreaded" hole so its a one way street, they will not be coming back out through the same hole.

2. A screwdriver is required to be stuck through the adjacent hole to prevent the L bolt from spinning when tightening the nut.

3. The L bolt is about 4mm too long so it will contact the reservoir if it is mounted too high on the bracket.

4. The additional hardware was supplied with nylon lock nuts which is a nice and appreciated upgrade over the standard nuts that came with the shocks.
 
You are correct. I sent this to Bilstein as feedback.

The extra L hardware works about 90%.

Here are my observations:

1. A hammer is required to get the L bolt into the "unthreaded" hole so its a one way street, they will not be coming back out through the same hole.

2. A screwdriver is required to be stuck through the adjacent hole to prevent the L bolt from spinning when tightening the nut.

3. The L bolt is about 4mm too long so it will contact the reservoir if it is mounted too high on the bracket.

4. The additional hardware was supplied with nylon lock nuts which is a nice and appreciated upgrade over the standard nuts that came with the shocks.

Thanks for the info.
On a side note, you may be able to take a dremel tool and cut that bolt off enough to slide your reservoir up where desired.
 
Thanks for the info.
On a side note, you may be able to take a dremel tool and cut that bolt off enough to slide your reservoir up where desired.

I was thinking that too, but there is a nylon washer between the bracket and the frame and I don't think I can do it without melting the washer. As I mentioned in the observations theres no way to get the L bolt back out so I think I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place :confused: oh well, I'm happy with it as is.
 
Ok, so after reading this thread over and over about 6 times, I have come to the conclusion that everyone's setups have come out a little bit different regardless if they are using the same setup. I am tackling my 6112 install this weekend and seem to be torn between the 2nd or 3rd clip setting. I don't mind installing a spacer or spring in the back as i don't mind a little rake due to hauling a bike rack loaded down with bikes a few days a week. I guess my real question is for those of you who set it on the 3rd clip setting, were you able to get away with running the stock UCA'S and getting it back into spec? Highway driving still good? I have seen and read very mixed reviews about this. I appreciate everyones contributions and this forum is fantastic. I will post up pictures after the install this weekend but am just trying to get it right the first time. I don't mind running springs or spacer in rear but would really like to stay away from UCA's. Thanks.
 
Ok, so after reading this thread over and over about 6 times, I have come to the conclusion that everyone's setups have come out a little bit different regardless if they are using the same setup. I am tackling my 6112 install this weekend and seem to be torn between the 2nd or 3rd clip setting. I don't mind installing a spacer or spring in the back as i don't mind a little rake due to hauling a bike rack loaded down with bikes a few days a week. I guess my real question is for those of you who set it on the 3rd clip setting, were you able to get away with running the stock UCA'S and getting it back into spec? Highway driving still good? I have seen and read very mixed reviews about this. I appreciate everyones contributions and this forum is fantastic. I will post up pictures after the install this weekend but am just trying to get it right the first time. I don't mind running springs or spacer in rear but would really like to stay away from UCA's. Thanks.

Stock UCAs are still good. Driving and ride are great. I say go for the 3rd clip but you'll need a little bit in the rear to be at least level. I do my measurements based on the frame. The wheel wells will never look level because they're about 2" higher in the rear.
 
Ok, so after reading this thread over and over about 6 times, I have come to the conclusion that everyone's setups have come out a little bit different regardless if they are using the same setup. I am tackling my 6112 install this weekend and seem to be torn between the 2nd or 3rd clip setting. I don't mind installing a spacer or spring in the back as i don't mind a little rake due to hauling a bike rack loaded down with bikes a few days a week. I guess my real question is for those of you who set it on the 3rd clip setting, were you able to get away with running the stock UCA'S and getting it back into spec? Highway driving still good? I have seen and read very mixed reviews about this. I appreciate everyones contributions and this forum is fantastic. I will post up pictures after the install this weekend but am just trying to get it right the first time. I don't mind running springs or spacer in rear but would really like to stay away from UCA's. Thanks.

[MENTION=136111]nj05mcs[/MENTION],

Hmmmm. "I have come to the conclusion that everyone's setups have come out a little bit different regardless if they are using the same setup"

That's strange.... I don't think that is the case here.
But it all depends on what you are installing these on....as you don't have any info listed in your signature or don't say what 4R you are trying to equip.

Anyway, 3rd clip setting gave me 2" of front lift on a 2014 SR5P 4WD 4Runner.
Measuring at the wheel wells gave me ground to wheel well measurement to be the same front & rear.
See this post.
Basically everyone that has a similar year model has achieved the same results.
2WD may differ in results due to configuration of suspensions.
Some earlier models as well may differ I suppose.....

I did not have to change my UCA and specs were achieved without issue as you can see here.
193177d1456503765-alignment-issues-after-bilstein-6112-lift-help-alignment-specs.jpg

Main issue seems some alignment places have ruined parts that they shouldn't have and couldn't or didn't know how to get the truck back within specs. Bring it to the dealer, they work on these everyday.
Highway driving is still good!

Good luck with your install...post up some photos!
 
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Hey saker I apologize for lack of details. I know I also asked you in your build thread but just trying to clarify. 2016 4Runner trail premium. In terms of heights and specs being different, that was mainly toward everyone's heights both baseline and post lift seem to be a little different up to 1/2". From this thread and all the other threads I have read. I understand there are so many variables that go into it (gas tank full, who does alignment, how lazy or incompetent they are, flat ground or not flat ground, anything in the trunk or not). When I took my measurements today of factory heights (flat ground),my driver side had about a 1 3/4" difference between front and rear and my passenger side had about 2 1/4" difference between front and rear. Now I am not worried so much about the lean but more so the actual lift. If I go by those numbers, and set at 3rd clip and got 2", the driver side would have a reverse rake (front high) and the passenger side would appear to have a typical take with the back being a little higher. Thank you again for your input. I may shoot for the 3rd clip and see what happens. Like I said, I don't mind having to bump up the rear a little but would like to retain factory UCA's and have it drive and track straight as I do a lot of highway driving.
 
Hey saker I apologize for lack of details. I know I also asked you in your build thread but just trying to clarify. 2016 4Runner trail premium. In terms of heights and specs being different, that was mainly toward everyone's heights both baseline and post lift seem to be a little different up to 1/2". From this thread and all the other threads I have read. I understand there are so many variables that go into it (gas tank full, who does alignment, how lazy or incompetent they are, flat ground or not flat ground, anything in the trunk or not). When I took my measurements today of factory heights (flat ground),my driver side had about a 1 3/4" difference between front and rear and my passenger side had about 2 1/4" difference between front and rear. Now I am not worried so much about the lean but more so the actual lift. If I go by those numbers, and set at 3rd clip and got 2", the driver side would have a reverse rake (front high) and the passenger side would appear to have a typical take with the back being a little higher. Thank you again for your input. I may shoot for the 3rd clip and see what happens. Like I said, I don't mind having to bump up the rear a little but would like to retain factory UCA's and have it drive and track straight as I do a lot of highway driving.

NO worries, and thanks on the clarification.

Given your specs before the install, 2 things you may be able to consider....
A 10mm OME rear spacer to be installed to take out the lean on the rear spring or placing a Toytec 1/4" spacer in the front to take out the lean there at time of install of the 6112's. the Toytec 1/4" spacer will give 1/2" of lift when installed.
The easiest would be the spacer over the rear coils after your 6112 install is done.
Maybe someone can chime in.
 
I was Intersted in the ome trim packers as I ran them on my fj. Considered it, but once again I saw a few guys say that the lean goes away after the 6112's I believe there is a guy on here by the name of cowtown who was using ome spacers in the rear for a small rear lift to add some rake. His truck looked like it sat great. Thanks again for your input. Biggest concerns were the UCA's! So I'm very happy to hear a couple people are not having problems with them and are able to track straight.
 
I was Intersted in the ome trim packers as I ran them on my fj. Considered it, but once again I saw a few guys say that the lean goes away after the 6112's I believe there is a guy on here by the name of cowtown who was using ome spacers in the rear for a small rear lift to add some rake. His truck looked like it sat great. Thanks again for your input. Biggest concerns were the UCA's! So I'm very happy to hear a couple people are not having problems with them and are able to track straight.

I was not speaking of the ome trim packers , they will not work on the 6112's.

What I was speaking of is totally different, just to clarify, and go over the rear spring.
OME rear trim spacer for Toyota FJ Cruiser and 4Runner
OME-rear-trim-spacer-for-Toyota-FJ-Cruiser-and-4Runner-353x235.jpg
 
Ok so I promised some pictures, however it is dark out. But I will post some feedback and alignment sheet. I had a professional 4wd shop do the install because they have taken very good care of me and many fj members before.

1. For everyone on the forum that say the factory UCA's don't have enough adjustment for 2"+ or have trouble getting it back in spec or are super close to it not being in spec, your dealing with either an inexperienced alignment tech or they were just plain lazy. From talking to the tech today, he was able to get 3.4 degrees caster left and 3.2 degrees caster right in the front with no sacrifice to camber, toe, or cross caster.. The tech said the caster was spot on but if needed, there was definitely more room to go. So I hope some people searching can be put at ease with the fact that yes there is plenty of adjustment in the factory UCA's to accommodate a sub 3" front lift. I know some people said its fine, but I've seen many others with problems.
2. Set the 6112's on the 3rd clip (middle) stock rear with 5100's. Truck has a little bit of reverse rake but I will wait for it to settle to give final measurements and figure out what I plan to do with the rear.
3. The ride. The ride is much much better (in my opinion) then the 5100's I had on my fj. (Some will say apples to oranges). Tracks straight as an arrow. Eats up small hits like its nothing, big hits are felt with a little dip but fantastic at softening them up.
Overall I am very happy with the result of the 6112's and would highly recommend them. I hope this puts some people at ease who question about running factory UCA's. Yoj absolutely can on a sub 3" lift.
 

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