Which Upper Control Arms ?

cj80cruiser said:
Most on here seem to like the light racing control arms but I've read a few threads on ttora calling into question the bushings longevity....granted they were older threads and the problem may be corrected by now.
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They did have issues with the old style bushings. The new ones seem to be of a lot higher quality.

And just an FYI for everyone, Toytec will price match anyones price on the LR UCA's. You just have to ask.
 
I'm running 315's with Light Racing UCA's. I like them a lot and would recommend them. I'm also running 1.25" spacers because of the OEM 17" Sequoia Wheels don't have enough backspacing. If you adjust the UCA's to get the most clearance you'll have about half an inch.
 
xcmountain80 said:
Must have changed it, the last two sets I bought had a different price once added to the cart.

A
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It shows the lower price when I add to my cart. Going to order in the AM.

Any special tools needed to install? Thinking I read that I'd have to do something to the knuckle or do they just bolt up?
 
You have to remove the OE upper ball joint and press in an adapter for the SBC ball joint. And a regular ball joint press will not work. Youll need a 3 jaw puller with the necessary bits to use the puller. Washers, Sockets etc. I took a small angle grinder to the OE ball joint and cut the stud off so I could use my puller as a press.

P1020594.jpg~original


P1020591.jpg~original
 
There isnt alot of room on the knuckle for the puller, so make sure its a 3 arm puller. A 2 arm like the one I used was very unstable, but it worked. I ended up hammering the adapters in a little at a time using a block of wood between the hammer and adapter.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. You will have to remove the ABS wiring from the fender well on the drivers side (IIRC) to get the upper arm bolt out. Just a few misc bolts but one, the one under the battery, was the hardest to get to.

Also, not sure what kind of lift you are running, but on mine with 881 springs, having the caster adjustment set at 0, and camber set right in the middle, the caster was about dead nuts in the center of the adjustment range and camber was darn close. The caster setting of 0 on the arm gives you a +2 degrees of caster.
 
Finally going to install mine today....

Is the OEM upper ball joint torque spec the same for the light racing upper ball joint?

I ended up torqueing the shaft of the upper ball joint to 115 ftlbs since the nut was larger than the OEM.

Correction.....I was given the wrong torque spec so I retorqued them to 80-85 ftlbs
 
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FatBobs always has great prices and outstanding customer services. I have alway been happy with everything I have ordered from them.
 
adam2562 said:
what? :wtf: i'm currently researching to figure which kind i want for my 5th gen
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just messin with you cause this is in the third gen section haha.

I think i may get the light racing ones. i hear the uniball ones are great until they start squeaking. the lr ucas are also cheaper, use an oe style ball joint with boot, and more adjustabke as well. I know my ball joints are toast, and they touch my coils when fully flexed, with the lr ucas i think you can actually space the spindle out and away from the frame allowing bigger tires.
 
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