Which Upper Control Arms ?

[snivilous]

just messin with you cause this is in the third gen section haha.

I think i may get the light racing ones. i hear the uniball ones are great until they start squeaking. the lr ucas are also cheaper, use an oe style ball joint with boot, and more adjustabke as well. I know my ball joints are toast, and they touch my coils when fully flexed, with the lr ucas i think you can actually space the spindle out and away from the frame allowing bigger tires.

I wouldn't rely on spacing it out very far, maybe a half inch and that'd be by cranking both the LCA and UCA ball joint out. Having adjustable ball joints is nice since with them being booted that decreases maintenance quite a bit, I've never had a big issue with my uniballs squeaking though I haven't put a lot of miles on them. They'll start if they get a lot of mud into them but with a quick power wash they stop.

 

[D Farms]

I wouldn't rely on spacing it out very far, maybe a half inch and that'd be by cranking both the LCA and UCA ball joint out. Having adjustable ball joints is nice since with them being booted that decreases maintenance quite a bit, I've never had a big issue with my uniballs squeaking though I haven't put a lot of miles on them. They'll start if they get a lot of mud into them but with a quick power wash they stop.

I wasnt expecting long travel or anything, mostly it will just give more clearance since there is not that big ass flange and when you move the uca ball joint out it also moves backwards giving more caster, then you can have both cams at the bottom pushed out instead of the back out and the front in. and that would move the spindle farther out about an half an inch or so.

 

[adam2562]

just messin with you cause this is in the third gen section haha.

I think i may get the light racing ones. i hear the uniball ones are great until they start squeaking. the lr ucas are also cheaper, use an oe style ball joint with boot, and more adjustable as well. I know my ball joints are toast, and they touch my coils when fully flexed, with the lr ucas i think you can actually space the spindle out and away from the frame allowing bigger tires.

yea i thought that might be why or you were drunk! haha.. i'm just searching all around for peoples opinions on them b4 i take the plunge and buy a pair. but yea when i went back to amazon to find it.. it was $410 instead of $401 and i was like.. Am i going crazy?.. so i thought the price had raised that quickly.. but then i found it again just by searching using different words lol.. but yea.. u can't go wrong using amazon and for my part# amazon had the cheapest price. i think i'm gonna order the LR's today after going over all the info i found. price was lowered another $5 today to $396

 

[toyohtadude]

yea i thought that might be why or you were drunk! haha.. i'm just searching all around for peoples opinions on them b4 i take the plunge and buy a pair. but yea when i went back to amazon to find it.. it was $410 instead of $401 and i was like.. Am i going crazy?.. so i thought the price had raised that quickly.. but then i found it again just by searching using different words lol.. but yea.. u can't go wrong using amazon and for my part# amazon had the cheapest price. i think i'm gonna order the LR's today after going over all the info i found. price was lowered another $5 today to $396

How about $370.48 shipped? I found these SPCs on Amazon: Amazon.com: Specialty Products Company 25480 Upper Control Arm for Toyota 4Runner and FJ - Pair: Automotive Considering this purchase myself. The Toytec lift is being delivered tomorrow. Attempted today but the shipper requires a signature and no one was home!

I know it's the 3rd gen section but adam2562 was specifically looking for these for his 5th gen.

 

[adam2562]

Now they're 349 shipped!

 

[adam2562]

and now $350.xx weird how the price fluctuates so often

 

[adam2562]

I actually emailed amazon and asked if i could get a refund for the price difference since the price went down the day after i bought them. and sure enough, i'm getting back $45!

 

[macshemi57]

So who has the best deal on the lr uca's for the 3rd gen at the moment?

 

[adam2562]

i'd check amazon b4 u buy.. use the part number for a 3rd gen

 

[LookAtThatDog]

How about $370.48 shipped? I found these SPCs on Amazon: Amazon.com: Specialty Products Company 25480 Upper Control Arm for Toyota 4Runner and FJ - Pair: Automotive Considering this purchase myself. The Toytec lift is being delivered tomorrow. Attempted today but the shipper requires a signature and no one was home!

I know it's the 3rd gen section but adam2562 was specifically looking for these for his 5th gen.

In the QA section, it says this doesn't fit 3rd gens?

edit: This appears to be the right part number

http://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performan...?ie=UTF8&qid=1428013819&sr=8-2&keywords=25460

 

[macshemi57]

In the QA section, it says this doesn't fit 3rd gens?

edit: This appears to be the right part number

http://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performan...?ie=UTF8&qid=1428013819&sr=8-2&keywords=25460

Is this link the correct Part for 3rd gens? Spc is th. Same as light racing?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Is this link the correct Part for 3rd gens? Spc is th. Same as light racing?

Yep, This is where I bought from. Cheapest I found. Fast delivery couple weeks ago. Put them on last weekend. Truck drives so much better now.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Yep, This is where I bought from. Cheapest I found. Fast delivery couple weeks ago. Put them on last weekend. Truck drives so much better now.

In what way does it drive better? I'm on the fence about aftermarket uca

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

In what way does it drive better? I'm on the fence about aftermarket uca

When you get a lift, it takes away you caster angle. Caster is what helps your steering return to center own it's own after turning a corner. If you lose your caster, you may have jittery steering, bump steer (hit a bump, vehicle needs a lot of correction to keep it going straight) Here's some technical info for ya:

Caster angle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Basically, the more caster the better, within spec. Our trucks caster spec is between 1.2 to 3.8 degrees, with no more than .5 degrees difference from the opposite side. Caster will cause pull to side with more caster greater than .5 degrees generally (cross caster ie. 3.5 degrees drivers side and 2.5 degrees passenger side - will pull to the driver side) In this example both specs would be "green" on many alignment machines but there will still be a pull to the left. Very common mistake made by inexperienced alignment techs.

Looking at your build, doesn't look like you have a lift so new UCAs may not be worth it. Gotta love that rust tho huh? I'm in the same boat.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

When you get a lift, it takes away you caster angle. Caster is what helps your steering return to center own it's own after turning a corner. If you lose your caster, you may have jittery steering, bump steer (hit a bump, vehicle needs a lot of correction to keep it going straight) Here's some technical info for ya:

Caster angle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Basically, the more caster the better, within spec. Our trucks caster spec is between 1.2 to 3.8 degrees, with no more than .5 degrees difference from the opposite side. Caster will cause pull to side with more caster greater than .5 degrees generally (cross caster ie. 3.5 degrees drivers side and 2.5 degrees passenger side - will pull to the driver side) In this example both specs would be "green" on many alignment machines but there will still be a pull to the left. Very common mistake made by inexperienced alignment techs.

Looking at your build, doesn't look like you have a lift so new UCAs may not be worth it. Gotta love that rust tho huh? I'm in the same boat.

I ordered OME 890's, TRD springs and bilstein 5100's that I'll be installing in a couple weeks. I'm sure my UCA are original, so I'm concerned about lifting with them. Also, I won't be putting bigger tires on for a little while, so I'm trying to decide my plan of attack.

I could do the UCA at the same time as the lift - ill already be in there, so it makes sense to, but it costs more money than I've already spent on the lift...

or get some UCA's when I buy new tires. I won't really need the UCAs until I get tires, but it'll mean taking the truck apart again.

I asked you about what benefit they had because I have enough issues with my steering, I don't want to lift and have an undrivable truck with little tires.

As for the rust, I'm gonna grind as much as I can down during my vacation week and paint it with por 15 or undercoating or something. It's ugly and annoying on bolts, but now that the frame is buttoned up It doesn't worry me so much .

 

[REVELC]

I would do the UCA's at the same time as the lift to avoid aligning it twice. That might save you some $$ unless you're doing it yourself. That way when you get the tires you can just slap them on and go.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

I would do the UCA's at the same time as the lift to avoid aligning it twice. That might save you some $$ unless you're doing it yourself. That way when you get times you can just also them on and go.

Won't I need a second alignment when I get bigger tires anyway?

 

[thebrandon]

Won't I need a second alignment when I get bigger tires anyway?

Tires shouldn't have a significant impact on your suspension geometry. At all really. UCAs and a lift however will and will require an alignment.

Although, I do like to make sure everything is aligned when getting new tires. But that is just preventative maintenance to help make sure they wear evenly and properly.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Ok I bit the bullet and ordered them.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

so if your truck is lifted, the caster angle cannot be corrected to the original spec by an alignment?

When you get a lift, it takes away you caster angle. Caster is what helps your steering return to center own it's own after turning a corner. If you lose your caster, you may have jittery steering, bump steer (hit a bump, vehicle needs a lot of correction to keep it going straight) Here's some technical info for ya:

Caster angle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Basically, the more caster the better, within spec. Our trucks caster spec is between 1.2 to 3.8 degrees, with no more than .5 degrees difference from the opposite side. Caster will cause pull to side with more caster greater than .5 degrees generally (cross caster ie. 3.5 degrees drivers side and 2.5 degrees passenger side - will pull to the driver side) In this example both specs would be "green" on many alignment machines but there will still be a pull to the left. Very common mistake made by inexperienced alignment techs.

Looking at your build, doesn't look like you have a lift so new UCAs may not be worth it. Gotta love that rust tho huh? I'm in the same boat.