While I've got the engine pulled...

[cl4Rk]

As some of you know, I'm in the middle of a frame swap. Since the body is off the frame, there's easy access to everything.

The valve cover gaskets were done a few months ago (PO had a shop do them before selling, they look good).

Looks like the cam seals are a little leaky, so we'll do those now (Part Number 9031138051, qty 2).

My question is this: is there any reason to open it up and replace the rear main seal as a preventative measure? Or anything else for that matter? Or will I just end up down a rabbit hole of repairs that weren't needed?

On the one hand, I'd like to take care of stuff now while I have the truck pulled apart.
On the other hand, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Thoughts?

Thanks everyone, this forum is the best!


EDIT: Truck runs great, no issues. Leaky cam seals explain the drop or two of oil I'd see on the ground every couple of days. 208k miles. The first post in my build thread lists everything that's been done and in progress if you need a better idea of the current state of the truck. Ol' Ruby build thread

 

[jgue467]

Normally I'm in the 'ain't broke don't fix' camp but....

since engine/trans is already pulled, may as well, cheap part.

that way you can have the best of both worlds and leave the TC alone!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I’d do head gaskets, timing belt, and check valve lash while it’s out

Replace all exterior hoses with new, pull the oil cooler and flush it and new seals.

Since you’re going through the work with the frame swap extra credit would drop the engine off for new bearings and rings, and oil pump and drop the trans off for new friction disks and steals and new pump.

Then in theory your done for a long long time

Edit. You have 208,000 miles on your engine. I had an engine that needed head gaskets at 140k and one at 258k. It would suck putting it all back together and a year or so later have to rip the entire topend off for head gasket replacement.


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[3bears]

oil cooler as stated above, but also its hoses
rear main seal and careffully inspect flex plate, maybe even tranny front seal then look at the rear freeze plugs and make sure no weeping or rust started.
trans and motor mounts

 

[DreadPirateJon]

I was told by the mechanic who got me into working on cars that whenever it is easy to access, do the timing belt and water pump.

 

[diverscale]

depend on time you want to invest.

Personally I would do the obvious, rear main, replace rubber hoses, timing belt/WP and cam seals. Also pretty cheap overall.

Doing the head gasket, rings and bearing will add quite a few hours to your swap, I would personally skip these, as these engine go on the originals forever.

 

[repo]

While everything is apart I'd do the rear main seal, trans front oil seal and flex plate, and replace the transfer case shifter seat thingy with a Marlin Crawler one and the gasket. Also engine oil pain gasket.

 

[FD7683]

It would be the perfect time to knock out the timing belt while the engine is off the truck (if it hasn't been done). I would assume it would be a breeze to change it since there is no space issues. The seals would be also a good idea to change too even if they are not leaking.

 

[Malcolm99]

I did the rear main and resealed the oil pan when I swapped my motors, pretty sure you have to reseal the oil pan if you do the rear main if I recall correctly, inspect the rear frost plugs and flex plate. I wouldn't do anything else unless obviously needed unless time and money are of no concern.

 

[cl4Rk]

Timing belt and water pump were done at a shop by the previous owner the same time they did the valve cover gaskets, about 6 months ago (I have about 11 years of service records in a binder..)

 

[spartacus]

Timing belt and water pump were done at a shop by the previous owner the same time they did the valve cover gaskets, about 6 months ago (I have about 11 years of service records in a binder..)

Personally if the motor ran well before and had no issues or leaks. I wouldn't mess with it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Timing belt and water pump were done at a shop by the previous owner the same time they did the valve cover gaskets, about 6 months ago (I have about 11 years of service records in a binder..)

One of my engines need a head gasket at 140k miles and the other at 258k miles. It would suck to have to pull the entire top end apart a year or three after you get it back on the road. A 200 dollar “head replacement kit” from YotaTech and an afternoon or your time......


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[gamefreakgc]

One of my engines need a head gasket at 140k miles and the other at 258k miles. It would suck to have to pull the entire top end apart a year or three after you get it back on the road. A 200 dollar “head replacement kit” from YotaTech and an afternoon or your time......


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For a first time head gasket job, it's more than a one afternoon job. I'm not sure that I would consider a head gasket as preventative maintenance, more of a 'if you have to' sort of thing. But if you've done one before, it's not a big of a job the second time. I can change knock sensors in 2 hours now. First time took me about 6.

Seeing that you've already done your timing belt I'd just leave it alone. Maybe rear main seal if you are itching for a project, I didn't replace mine when I had my engine out. I do have a slight oil pan leak that drips maybe one-two drops a week but I don't really care that much to fix it. Just isn't a big enough deal on a 24 year old vehicle. Can't keep it perfect forever.

 

[swapped_mini]

While it is out I would check the valve adjustment, might be totally fine but way easier to get too while the engine is out if you need to change some shims. I ended up wishing I had done it on mine when it was out.

I would also do the knock sensor harness, it is only about a 20$ part from Toyota and sucks if it goes, granted I think its mostly an issue on supercharged engines but they all go through a lot of heat cycles leading to brittle wires. Might have to do valve cover gaskets while you are in there but they aren't too expensive either.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

While it is out I would check the valve adjustment, might be totally fine but way easier to get too while the engine is out if you need to change some shims. I ended up wishing I had done it on mine when it was out.

I would also do the knock sensor harness, it is only about a 20$ part from Toyota and sucks if it goes, granted I think its mostly an issue on supercharged engines but they all go through a lot of heat cycles leading to brittle wires. Might have to do valve cover gaskets while you are in there but they aren't too expensive either.

If the intake is off all that’s left is the head bolts and cam belt to do head gaskets while is not in the engine bay. I’ve done two in the engine bay and one on the stand. You can guess which was easier.......Pulling the heads requires cams to be removed and shims can all be checked then.


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[thegipper]

When I had my engine out (donor motor was on a stand) I replaced the rear main seal which was bone dry. Now, my new OEM rear main seals leaks. I'm not exactly sure how I messed it up but I did so I'm definitely in the camp of "if it's not broken, don't fix it". At least for the rear main seal.

I did replace a ton of other things while the engine was out.

 

[Malcolm99]

Pulling heads would be the last thing on my list during an engine removal unless something is wrong, or you are really good at checking heads and have unlimited funds and time, and if thats the case you might aswell do rings while you're at it, and replace every frost plug. Heads, valves, and knock sensor wire harness can all be done when they become a problem in the engine bay.

Rear main and oil pan is not accessible unless engine is out and will cost you 1 seal, some permatex ultra grey and about an hour if you clean it up well.