Wurring noise driving me nuts

[TC914-8]

I reciently noticed a wurring noise comming from my 03 4R, it almost sounds like as if I had knoby tires ( like my wifes Tundra on smothe pavement) I rotated tires, checked/lubed U joints, and inspected front axles and CV joints. I do see PS boot is cracked on the axle(small) end, and grease leaking out of the boot on the DS. I am suspecting CV joints but hoping not the Xfer case or trans. It definetly seems drive line related. While driving I'll throw it in Netural and no changes.
Has anyone had defective or dry CV joints? what symptoms did you have?
any replies is much apreciated,

 

[thebwlife]

I reciently noticed a wurring noise comming from my 03 4R, it almost sounds like as if I had knoby tires ( like my wifes Tundra on smothe pavement) I rotated tires, checked/lubed U joints, and inspected front axles and CV joints. I do see PS boot is cracked on the axle(small) end, and grease leaking out of the boot on the DS. I am suspecting CV joints but hoping not the Xfer case or trans. It definetly seems drive line related. While driving I'll throw it in Netural and no changes.
Has anyone had defective or dry CV joints? what symptoms did you have?
any replies is much apreciated,

check all your diff and tran case fluids, could be low - which would be bad.

 

[TC914-8]

check all your diff and tran case fluids, could be low - which would be bad.

I would suspect that but everything is dry, no leaks. I will check anyway to check fluid condition. .I just read other threads, with the same symptoms. no solid diagnosis just yet

 

[Atlanta_man]

wheel bearing ?

 

[zstampe]

I reciently noticed a wurring noise comming from my 03 4R, it almost sounds like as if I had knoby tires ( like my wifes Tundra on smothe pavement) I rotated tires, checked/lubed U joints, and inspected front axles and CV joints. I do see PS boot is cracked on the axle(small) end, and grease leaking out of the boot on the DS. I am suspecting CV joints but hoping not the Xfer case or trans. It definetly seems drive line related. While driving I'll throw it in Netural and no changes.
Has anyone had defective or dry CV joints? what symptoms did you have?
any replies is much apreciated,

I have the exact same issue but mine comes and goes when the temp changes and goes away completely in 4wd.

 

[TRDCal]

I agree with atlanta man...could be wheel bearings, whats the mileage on your runner?

 

[TC914-8]

My 4Runner just turned 100K, 03 limited V-8

 

[glock56534]

Sounds like a wheel bearing. Just happened to my passenger side wheel bearing and hub @ 104,000 miles. At higher speeds, try swerving one way and then the other. If the noise stops when you swerve, it is likely a wheel bearing issue. If it has been going on for long enough, you may need a new hub too.

If it is a wheel bearing issue, you can get a new wheel bearing/hub assembly (pre-pressed) on ebay then DIY for much cheaper than having a shop do it. If you don't get the pre-pressed ones, it is a pain in the butt to DIY because you need to press the bearing into the hub assembly.

Hope this helps.

 

[TC914-8]

Sounds like a wheel bearing. Just happened to my passenger side wheel bearing and hub @ 104,000 miles. At higher speeds, try swerving one way and then the other. If the noise stops when you swerve, it is likely a wheel bearing issue. If it has been going on for long enough, you may need a new hub too.

If it is a wheel bearing issue, you can get a new wheel bearing/hub assembly (pre-pressed) on ebay then DIY for much cheaper than having a shop do it. If you don't get the pre-pressed ones, it is a pain in the butt to DIY because you need to press the bearing into the hub assembly.

Hope this helps.

Thanks I'll give it a try and a look and let you know

 

[TC914-8]

Well I have an update, both wheel bearings were dry as a bone. I took it to my local shop (not dealer) and they had it on the lift, as we rotated the wheels you can feel the play and hear the bearings. they quoted me $1050 for both bearings R/R. $250 ea for the bearings. I showed him $79.00 bearings on my Iphone, he didnt want any part of the "Internet deals" He only sells OEM or better?? if there is such a thing. The shop owner is a local legend and Hot rod buff, 25+ cars including a Super Snake, Ive dealt whith him for years, fairly well trusted. So while on the lift we saw boots on the CV's cracked, Grease blown out. So for another $440 R/R both Axles. I am pinched for time needing my car for Monday AM trip to the airport, Knowing I could do the job myself just needed way more time, I spent the $1450.00 and got it all done. I did see the old parts and yes they were fried, seals blown out and bearings dry as a bone.
The 03 limited V8 has 104Kmiles how would this happen on a Toyota???

 

[Atlanta_man]

that seem like very low mileage for w.b.'s to fail

no way to mis-use them, sealed up and all...

 

[Sungod]

Well I have an update, both wheel bearings were dry as a bone. I took it to my local shop (not dealer) and they had it on the lift, as we rotated the wheels you can feel the play and hear the bearings. they quoted me $1050 for both bearings R/R. $250 ea for the bearings. I showed him $79.00 bearings on my Iphone, he didnt want any part of the "Internet deals" He only sells OEM or better?? if there is such a thing. The shop owner is a local legend and Hot rod buff, 25+ cars including a Super Snake, Ive dealt whith him for years, fairly well trusted. So while on the lift we saw boots on the CV's cracked, Grease blown out. So for another $440 R/R both Axles. I am pinched for time needing my car for Monday AM trip to the airport, Knowing I could do the job myself just needed way more time, I spent the $1450.00 and got it all done. I did see the old parts and yes they were fried, seals blown out and bearings dry as a bone.
The 03 limited V8 has 104Kmiles how would this happen on a Toyota???

The bearings should be dry because they are sealed. $1050 is way too much. I don't think the bearings from the dealer are $250 each. Timkens are great bearings and you can get those for $68. I got SKFs for $95. Then about another $30 for seals. You should have paid about $300 in parts and the labor should have been no more than $300 on the extreme high end.

You were then gouged even more on the axles. The labor to r/r the axles once the bearings were out should have been almost nothing. It would have taken maybe 30 mins max to remove and install the axles and top off the diff fluid. You can get brand new half shafts for $50 each. Even if they rebuilt yours the price wouldn't go up much since the boot are about $20 and it wouldn't take a lot of labor to replace them. I would say that you should have paid no more than $200 to get both axles replaced while getting your bearings replaced. I would guess the whole job should have cost no more than $800. Maybe I would go as high as $900 if they included a wheel alignment.

If it were me, I would go back and ask how they came to $1450. That is what I would expect to pay at the dealer.

 

[superman3043]

Just had a wheel bearing done Friday @ the local dealer on my '05 V8 with over 150K on it. Front/Passenger. Charged me Two hundred something for the entire hub assembly. Plus labor I was out the door for about $550. They threw in an alignment, rotation, and oil change at that price.

At the time, I thought I had gotten gouged, but after seeing these prices, I guess I did ok, considering it was a dealership and OE parts.

 

[TC914-8]

Just had a wheel bearing done Friday @ the local dealer on my '05 V8 with over 150K on it. Front/Passenger. Charged me Two hundred something for the entire hub assembly. Plus labor I was out the door for about $550. They threw in an alignment, rotation, and oil change at that price.

At the time, I thought I had gotten gouged, but after seeing these prices, I guess I did ok, considering it was a dealership and OE parts.

I knew what the dealer prices were going in, Also knew the after market prices were wayyyy cheaper and the DIY would have cost me 1/4 the price. The big issue was I was over a barrel, needing my car back by Friday. He has a computer estimating program which allows him to configure different scinarios, changing the axles labor, ect... was only $105 more while the bearings were being done plus parts. He did hose me on parts, he gave me "List Price" I hate paying List cause I know what that means MAX profit. I'll think twice about going back there, although he is the best of 4 shops in my town. The Dealer is even worse and questionable on tallent.
So it is, what it is,:happens: If I had more time I would have saved $500 or more...
Im hoping at 104K miles other things don't start acting up:crybaby:

 

[Ridger]

This sounds exactly what mine started doing about a week, maybe two, ago... a whuring noise that sounds like part of the drive train (as the OP, still makes the sound in neutral).

Will have to get it shecked out... might also be wheel bearings?

What worries me is that I switched over to Amsoil Sythetic in the differentials and tranny exactly 1-yr ago.... I wonder if its that? I know that everyone on here was saying then, do it and don't fret it... now I'm wondering if I should fret it.

 

[zstampe]

This sounds exactly what mine started doing about a week, maybe two, ago... a whuring noise that sounds like part of the drive train (as the OP, still makes the sound in neutral).

Will have to get it shecked out... might also be wheel bearings?

What worries me is that I switched over to Amsoil Sythetic in the differentials and tranny exactly 1-yr ago.... I wonder if its that? I know that everyone on here was saying then, do it and don't fret it... now I'm wondering if I should fret it.

Same issue I have, it only does it while cold though.

 

[Sungod]

This sounds exactly what mine started doing about a week, maybe two, ago... a whuring noise that sounds like part of the drive train (as the OP, still makes the sound in neutral).

Will have to get it shecked out... might also be wheel bearings?

What worries me is that I switched over to Amsoil Sythetic in the differentials and tranny exactly 1-yr ago.... I wonder if its that? I know that everyone on here was saying then, do it and don't fret it... now I'm wondering if I should fret it.

I would seriously doubt that Amsoil would cause the problem. While I think their products are over hyped and boast unfounded claims of gain not to mention way overpriced, I don't think they contribute to wear or failure when used in the proper applications.

 

[Ridger]

Well, I'm thinking (and hoping) that its not the issue, but certainly it had entered my mind because it kinda sounds like it might be the front Diff. Sounds funny but I feel better reading this thread and hearing it might be teh wheel bearings. Just made an appt with my dealer and explained to him over the phone and he said it sounded like it might be a wheel bearing... so that is kinda good I guess.