Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration
- Thread starter iDRiVaT4R
- Start date
whodat
New member
Yup. I was able to pull it out of the metal bracket because it wasnt screwed in and flip it over to do it the right way the second time around lol
JSparky
New member
Success!! After my suspension install VSC would kick in more than normal on the twisties. I asked the dealership to perform the zero point today while having a scheduled maintenance done and whatever turkey was working on it messed up, they gave it back to me with the Slip indicator stuck on and gave me some excuse about aftermarket parts. I didn't feel like arguing cause I'd seen this thread before, I just figured let them do it because they offered to do it for $40 and figured "mind as well have it done right".. Go figure. Either way got the light to turn off and so far haven't had any abnormal VSC interference. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it was a big help.
JSparky
New member
By the way:
In case anyone is wondering how to go about this, I fashioned a "SST" out of a momentary switch from Radio Shack, some 18g general purpose wire from the hardware store, electrical tape, and a loose rubber grommet I had lying around. Total cost to me was about $5.
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MtnManZ
New member
Update Success!
I cleared the data and went through both steps back-to-back, and then turned off the key, disconnected the wire, started the truck and drove off. Seemed to "take" on the first try (no lights). Took all of 3-4 minutes and can likely be done in under a minute including the drive :driving:
Thanks to iDRiVaT4R for posting this thread, and to eddiebx for the astute clarifications - Much obliged
Here is how I would edit the instructions.
SR5 and LE (w/o Crawl):
At least that's what I did
I just installed the Daystar 2.5/1.5 level kit and my trac control light came on and stayed on
Post #39 by Randyman got me what I needed. I was following the directions on page 1 and my trac control light would not turn off! Thanks to the clarification from [MENTION=10638]randyman[/MENTION] on post #39, my light is off and I can rest easy.BTW, I used a single piece of copper speaker wire and shoved one end into the 12 spot and then the other end into the 4 spot when needed.
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oljedi11950
New member
Yep that's all I did , course like a dummy I had the pic upside down & took me an hr to f-n figure that out then took me 5 mins DOH !! Worked perfect & even gained more fuel n the gauge , went from 340 to almost 400 mi per tank . Who knew ? And like some have mentioned was able to take turns a little faster w/o setting off bs .
DesertCanyons
New member
Zero Point Calibration with 3" lift
I have two questions about this calibration.
I just lifted the truck about 2" to 3" using ICON tubular stage 7 lift on my 2015 Trail Edition. I noticed as soon as I did the front suspension lift and drove it a few blocks the warning lights for the Slip Indicator, Four Wheel Drive indicator, and Multi-terrain came on and keep flashing. I've done the full lift now and the are still flashing.
The original rake profile is similar to the original rake. The front is a bit lower than the back, which is fine. In a short local test drive I haven't driven fast enough around turns or corners to trigger the dreaded anti-slip, skid control outer wheel braking people are posting about here. The outer wheel brakes to bring you out of a computer-perceived skid or roll over and that throws the car towards the curve.
So I have two questions about this thread on Zero Point Calibration given in the first post. I'm ready to try this rather than take it to the dealer and get mixed results.
1. What is the DLC3 and where can I find it?
2. On the 2015 and newer Trail Editions do we still skip the Downhill Assist Control (DAC) calibration?
I have two questions about this calibration.
I just lifted the truck about 2" to 3" using ICON tubular stage 7 lift on my 2015 Trail Edition. I noticed as soon as I did the front suspension lift and drove it a few blocks the warning lights for the Slip Indicator, Four Wheel Drive indicator, and Multi-terrain came on and keep flashing. I've done the full lift now and the are still flashing.
The original rake profile is similar to the original rake. The front is a bit lower than the back, which is fine. In a short local test drive I haven't driven fast enough around turns or corners to trigger the dreaded anti-slip, skid control outer wheel braking people are posting about here. The outer wheel brakes to bring you out of a computer-perceived skid or roll over and that throws the car towards the curve.
So I have two questions about this thread on Zero Point Calibration given in the first post. I'm ready to try this rather than take it to the dealer and get mixed results.
1. What is the DLC3 and where can I find it?
2. On the 2015 and newer Trail Editions do we still skip the Downhill Assist Control (DAC) calibration?
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jbstrd
New member
Your issue sounds like you severed an ABS wire that runs along both front spindles. If these wires are stretched too much, they break inside the rubber wire protection. Therefore, you can’t visibly tell it’s broken, you have to test the wire with a meter.
The DLC3 is the OBDII port under your dash on the driver’s side.
The TE’s don’t have DAC, they have Crawl Control instead.
Hope this helps. Unfortunately I still live with the overactive Slip Control issue. That is after two dealer performed ZPC’s and two by myself. Ugh!
DesertCanyons
New member
Zero Point Calibration with 3" lift
Thanks for your reply. I read a lot of your posts earlier tonight.
I'll check the ABS wires tomorrow. They did get stretched when I removed the UCA from the spindle on the first side I lifted. On the second side I tried tying the spindle up to the top of the upper shock bucket and supporting the rotor with blocks of wood. That seemed to help. If I busted a wire it was on the first side.
The DCL# is the OBDII port. There are so many acronyms here that people assume we all know... Now I'm confused. :doh: I'm going to research that. At least I know where to look. Thanks.
Wow, you're still dealing with this issue. Your first posts were from several years ago, right? Thanks again.
I'm open to any and all suggestions from everyone on how to solve this. I know I'm not the first person to lift a 4Runner. :faint:
Thanks for your reply. I read a lot of your posts earlier tonight.
I'll check the ABS wires tomorrow. They did get stretched when I removed the UCA from the spindle on the first side I lifted. On the second side I tried tying the spindle up to the top of the upper shock bucket and supporting the rotor with blocks of wood. That seemed to help. If I busted a wire it was on the first side.
The DCL# is the OBDII port. There are so many acronyms here that people assume we all know... Now I'm confused. :doh: I'm going to research that. At least I know where to look. Thanks.
Wow, you're still dealing with this issue. Your first posts were from several years ago, right? Thanks again.
I'm open to any and all suggestions from everyone on how to solve this. I know I'm not the first person to lift a 4Runner. :faint:
jbstrd
New member
Yep, I’d bet money you severed the wire on the side you stretched. Luckily, that wire can be had at Toyota for less than $75 give or take. It’s also easy to install.
As far as what DLC3 means, I have no idea. But, I can tell you for sure it is the plug under your driver’s side dash and I know of it as an OBDII port where you hook to for diagnostics.
Yes, I have dealt with this issue since I purchased my T4R brand new in Oct. 2012. I have learned how to drive it and I know when to expect the Stability Control to kick in. I guess if I was too worried I would continue to take it in to Toyota, but I have not put it as a high priority.
So, are you experiencing the overactive Stability Control issue or do you just have the lights present on your dash after installing the lift?
DesertCanyons
New member
Zero Point Calibration with 3" lift
No I haven't seen it happen yet. I was driving slow and cautiously last night on a test drive of the new suspension. I was weaving back and forth at 20 MPH, getting the truck to drive over speed bumps at an angle so I could feel the suspension cycling from side to side and work it a bit. I want to see what the settled height will be. I need it to settle before I take it in for realignment.
As I said in my first post above, "In a short local test drive I haven't driven fast enough around turns or corners to trigger the dreaded anti-slip, skid control outer wheel braking people are posting about here. The outer wheel brakes to bring you out of a computer-perceived skid or roll over and that throws the car towards the curve."
Gee, if I had this problem since it was new, without having installed a lift, I'd want to return the vehicle as a lemon. I waited 2 years to lift the vehicle. I forget how long you drove it before you lifted yours.
The lift looks great and I know I'll have more ground clearance now. I'll post photos of the process and the end results soon.
Today I'm getting all of the engine oil, trans oil, diff' oil and transfer case fluids changed before I install the RCI skid plates. Then I'll have it aligned. And somewhere along the way I'll learn to diagnose the ABS line failure or have the dealership check it.
Dave in So Cal
Thanks for your input on this issue.
No I haven't seen it happen yet. I was driving slow and cautiously last night on a test drive of the new suspension. I was weaving back and forth at 20 MPH, getting the truck to drive over speed bumps at an angle so I could feel the suspension cycling from side to side and work it a bit. I want to see what the settled height will be. I need it to settle before I take it in for realignment.
As I said in my first post above, "In a short local test drive I haven't driven fast enough around turns or corners to trigger the dreaded anti-slip, skid control outer wheel braking people are posting about here. The outer wheel brakes to bring you out of a computer-perceived skid or roll over and that throws the car towards the curve."
Gee, if I had this problem since it was new, without having installed a lift, I'd want to return the vehicle as a lemon. I waited 2 years to lift the vehicle. I forget how long you drove it before you lifted yours.
The lift looks great and I know I'll have more ground clearance now. I'll post photos of the process and the end results soon.
Today I'm getting all of the engine oil, trans oil, diff' oil and transfer case fluids changed before I install the RCI skid plates. Then I'll have it aligned. And somewhere along the way I'll learn to diagnose the ABS line failure or have the dealership check it.
Dave in So Cal
Thanks for your input on this issue.
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jbstrd
New member
I installed my lift at 100 miles, lol. Sooooo, no way to compare it to stock height since it has basically been lifted it’s entire life.
It seems like the 10-13 TE’s with KDSS had this issue the most. Not sure if newer ones were having the issue as much.
Good luck on your fix. It’s definitely an easy fix and you could save some money doing it yourself if you wanted to.
DesertCanyons
New member
ABS line broken
You were right. I broke the ABS brake line on the first side I lifted. I was more careful to support the brake rotor and spindle on the 2nd side when I saw how much the line got stretched.
The stability control indicators are flashing too, but there is no way those systems can work if the ABS line is disconnected from one or more wheels.
Going to buy the part and replace it today. Maybe that will fix the other indicators but I expect I will still have to do the Zero Point Calibration. We'll see.
You were right. I broke the ABS brake line on the first side I lifted. I was more careful to support the brake rotor and spindle on the 2nd side when I saw how much the line got stretched.
The stability control indicators are flashing too, but there is no way those systems can work if the ABS line is disconnected from one or more wheels.
Going to buy the part and replace it today. Maybe that will fix the other indicators but I expect I will still have to do the Zero Point Calibration. We'll see.
jbstrd
New member
Glad you got it figured out. Fixing the wire should get rid of all of the lights. That wire sets everything off since the abs is tied to all of those systems. I’m guessing you won’t have to do a ZPC. Just drive it around for a few days and you’ll know if the stability Control is overactive.
Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.
DesertCanyons
New member
Replaced the ABS wire
Replacing the ABS brake wire on the front left wheel worked. Not only did the ABS warning light turn off but the warning lights for the Slip Indicator, Four Wheel Drive indicator, and Multi-terrain are all off now. I only managed to start it up and back up a bit in the driveway because family drove in and blocked me in. But I looked at the dash and was happy to see the lights were off.
I drove about 20+ miles on the freeway today getting to Burbank Airport and back. It's a bit squirrely at speed but I have not had it realigned yet. I'll have that done on Monday.
I'll drive up to San Francisco next week. The 5 hour drive should give me a good feel for the new lift.
Loving the new height and ground clearance. :whoo:
Replacing the ABS brake wire on the front left wheel worked. Not only did the ABS warning light turn off but the warning lights for the Slip Indicator, Four Wheel Drive indicator, and Multi-terrain are all off now. I only managed to start it up and back up a bit in the driveway because family drove in and blocked me in. But I looked at the dash and was happy to see the lights were off.
I drove about 20+ miles on the freeway today getting to Burbank Airport and back. It's a bit squirrely at speed but I have not had it realigned yet. I'll have that done on Monday.
I'll drive up to San Francisco next week. The 5 hour drive should give me a good feel for the new lift.
Loving the new height and ground clearance. :whoo:
808-T4R
New member
Update Success!
I cleared the data and went through both steps back-to-back, and then turned off the key, disconnected the wire, started the truck and drove off. Seemed to "take" on the first try (no lights). Took all of 3-4 minutes and can likely be done in under a minute including the drive :driving:
Thanks to iDRiVaT4R for posting this thread, and to eddiebx for the astute clarifications - Much obliged
Here is how I would edit the instructions.
SR5 and LE (w/o Crawl):
At least that's what I did
thank you all, had the slip light stay on after installing the 3" toytec lift. did this with the edited version using a pair of speaker wires (with only the downhill assist option), and it worked like a champ. appt to the dealership has now been cancelled !!! :dance:
MyanRagahis
Member
I was about to reply to you in another thread about this issue.
So your issue is fixed then. Which is great because I just replaced my torn driver side ABS wire. Now the only thing on is the slip indicator and the multi terrain select light. I'll have to try this before I take it to the dealership.
