Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

[Charlievee]

Thinking of trying this procedure, but I'm not getting any DTC codes. I do have a lift and upper control arms. Truck is fine except the brakes. In a normal coast to a red light it's fine, but if I have to apply the brake quickly it's fine for a few feet and then almost locks up. The ABS engages and anything not tide down goes flying. Does this sound like an issue corvette zero point calibration?

 

[Charlievee]

Amazing what you can do with a little but of wire. I reset everything and will see if it helps the nanny brake system.

No effect on the Nanny system.

 

[progress4m]

Sorry for brining this old thread back… but I just want to clarify something before doing that on my 2013 Trail…

1) Since I do not have Downhill Assist Control and have Crawl Control, I am assuming I just pass the step 4 (4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control) and go to step 5. (5. PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Crawl Control))… is this correct?

2) Do I complete the "(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor" task in full including driving straight for 10 seconds and only then proceed to "Step 5. PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Crawl Control)?

It would seem that entering "Test Mode" (which is connecting terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3) second time to complete the Crawl Control Calibration might interfere with previous Zero-Point calibration… or I need to do step 5 at the same time I do zero point calibration?

Thank you in advance!

 

[progress4m]

Sorry for brining this old thread back… but I just want to clarify something before doing that on my 2013 Trail…

1) Since I do not have Downhill Assist Control and have Crawl Control, I am assuming I just pass the step 4 (4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control) and go to step 5. (5. PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Crawl Control))… is this correct?

2) Do I complete the "(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor" task in full including driving straight for 10 seconds and only then proceed to "Step 5. PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Crawl Control)?

It would seem that entering "Test Mode" (which is connecting terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3) second time to complete the Crawl Control Calibration might interfere with previous Zero-Point calibration… or I need to do step 5 at the same time I do zero point calibration?

Thank you in advance!

Since no one replied, I thought I would response to my own question above:

If you have CRAWL CONTROL, then you can perform its calibration in one step when Zero-Point calibration is performed, after both are done then you can drive the truck (for at least 10 seconds @ above 25 mph) to complete it.

Did mine yesterday and noticed very positive result during my test drive.

Hope that will help someone in the future.

 

[Gclark949]

Since no one replied, I thought I would response to my own question above:

If you have CRAWL CONTROL, then you can perform its calibration in one step when Zero-Point calibration is performed, after both are done then you can drive the truck (for at least 10 seconds @ above 25 mph) to complete it.

Did mine yesterday and noticed very positive result during my test drive.

Hope that will help someone in the future.

Thank you for posting back to clarify. Always nice to get clear feedback from others experience and nothing worse than always having that little bit of huh? in your mind.

It doesn't get mentioned much, but earlier post mentioned this is important for the rear brakes proportioning and that alone is a good reason to perform the zero point calibration, i.e. proper rear brake force and not too much rear brake force as in the computer thinks you have a bunch of weight in the rear.

 

[progress4m]

Thank you for posting back to clarify. Always nice to get clear feedback from others experience and nothing worse than always having that little bit of huh? in your mind.

It doesn't get mentioned much, but earlier post mentioned this is important for the rear brakes proportioning and that alone is a good reason to perform the zero point calibration, i.e. proper rear brake force and not too much rear brake force as in the computer thinks you have a bunch of weight in the rear.

Absolutely agree! Thank you.

 

[Joe-Runner]

This ended up helping me as well. 2013 Trail, lifted, liked to activate traction control when cornering "briskly." Took me all of 15 min to read through and do this.

I found this little connector and my ODBII extension to be a Godsend. Made it much easier. Thanks so much OP for sharing this!

 

[jlayton4]

I feel like a complete idiot for asking this...but I am struggling with this today. I did the ZPC, but I am not sure how to do the DAC calibration.

how do i "enter test mode" and turn of ignition, connect 4 and 12...then turn off the DAC? Doesnt make sense to me how im supposed to turn it off if the ignition is off. I guess im just worried about messing something up!

4. PERFORM DOWNHILL ASSIST CONTROL CALIBRATION (w/ Downhill Assist Control)

(b) Enter test mode (when using SST check wire).

(1) Turn the ignition switch off.

(2) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.

Front view of DLC3


(c) Turn the downhill assist control switch off.

(d) Push the downhill assist control switch and check that the downhill assist control indicator light is blinking.

(e) Turn the downhill assist control switch off.

(f) Turn the ignition switch off.

(g) Check if DTC C120A is output.

HINT:

If DTC C120A is not output, calibration was performed successfully.

 

[Joe-Runner]

I feel like a complete idiot for asking this...but I am struggling with this today. I did the ZPC, but I am not sure how to do the DAC calibration.

Mine doesn't have DAC so I skipped over that. I think you can ignore that "enter test mode" statement though, and just skip to the required steps.

 

[RobRomero]

Hey recently bought a 2012 T4R Ltd. Previous owner lifted 2" right before selling it to me. I'm experiencing the overactive VSC kicking in. Did you solve your problem? thank you

 

[BlueRidge77]

Your issue sounds like you severed an ABS wire that runs along both front spindles. If these wires are stretched too much, they break inside the rubber wire protection. Therefore, you can’t visibly tell it’s broken, you have to test the wire with a meter.

The DLC3 is the OBDII port under your dash on the driver’s side.

The TE’s don’t have DAC, they have Crawl Control instead.

Hope this helps. Unfortunately I still live with the overactive Slip Control issue. That is after two dealer performed ZPC’s and two by myself. Ugh!

I know this is an older post, but it seems like you’re still active here. Did you ever try “faking” out the new calibration? Instead of driving “straight for more than 10 seconds over 25mph”, did you ever try to drive like in a “slalom course” maybe going back and forth between the lines to make the computer think straight yaw/roll/etc is when you’re putting roll into it so the amount needed to trigger the VSC would be that much higher? I though about that as I’m working in Microsoft Project on one of my schedules and I always add fluff into my baselined schedule to give room for error or comfort… I think doing something like this on your new calibration or baseline could help…?

 

[NorCal4run]

Good information by the person who started this thread but I found this online which is very clear instructions with pics. Take a look!!

My story goes my traction control light was on after Les Schwab Tire in ID did a wheel alignment a couple of days ago on my 2017 4Runner TRD PRO. They said light was go off after driving it for a couple of days. LOL!!

Ya that did not happen

I tried the instructions posted above and it did not work. Why? you have to count 4 from right to left NOT left to right. Once you find 4 then place wire or paper clip in 12 spot under 4.

Here's the link: PS go half way down the page to ZERO POINT CALIBRATION!

Limp Mode on 5th Gen 4Runner & Zero Point Calibration (SOLVED)

 

[MyanRagahis]

Just wanted to say thank you again for this informative thread.

Snapped my ABS wire back in 2018 and this helped along the process in getting rid of some lights after replacing my cable.



Just got back from a trip in the Ozark National Forest and on 11/23/21, I ​smacked my wheel against a rock pretty hard. Knocked my alignment out of place as my steering wheel is pointed about 5 inches to the right now. Must just be a change in toe because I marked all my alignment cams and none of them shifted. They also have the Total Chaos Alignment Gussets.

I got slip light on solid and multi terrain light blinking the next day.
Didn't affect me too much as I could use my locker on the the trails.

I'm back home after a 600 mile drive (vehicle drove straight and no chopped up tire wear which was odd considering my steering wheel is heavily off center) and performed the zero point calibration in my driveway and crawl control calibration and it fixed my issue without any hassle.

 

[Brandonium]

Glad someone said it. I have been reading over this as I have slip and DAC lights on (no ABS) after my lift but that 'enter test mode' statement like we are supposed to know what that means made no freaking sense to me.

Mine doesn't have DAC so I skipped over that. I think you can ignore that "enter test mode" statement though, and just skip to the required steps.

 

[StrykerT4R]

2018 SR5 4x4

Thanks for the post. Wanted to share my experience.

Was offroading and knocked my front end out of alignment. Steering wheel was pointed to the 2:00 position to drive straight and it tripped my traction control light (squiggly lines). Returning home, I inspected my speed sensors and wires and they seemed okay. Knew it had to be out of calibration.

- My TS/CG points were 5 and 13 (not 4 and 12)
- Use paper clips instead of the wires; works MUCH better and easier to make your contacts during the alotted time (look for you tube videos for 5th gen)
-you do not need to drive your vehicle before you reset your DAC (downhill assist); I recalibrated and reset DAC before I drove as straight as possible at or above 25mph, no problems.

Hit me up if you have any questions.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Did this reset after my lift instal before I ever drove it, still have not set anything off one time or had a problem. Guess it worked

That's where I f_ucked up! I should've recalibrated before driving after lift. My VSC went nuts and nearly took grandma out. The yaw g spot senses more lean than from it's previous zero point data values due to its new higher elevation. It's sensitive. When the brakes are applied while cornering, it also controls the braking forces of the right and left wheels,
helping to maintain vehicle stability. Ebd electronic brake distribution.. definitely something Toyota needs to make known to drivers. Nearly had a really bad time, grandma probably sh1t herself too.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Just wanted to say thank you again for this informative thread.

Snapped my ABS wire back in 2018 and this helped along the process in getting rid of some lights after replacing my cable.



Just got back from a trip in the Ozark National Forest and on 11/23/21, I ​smacked my wheel against a rock pretty hard. Knocked my alignment out of place as my steering wheel is pointed about 5 inches to the right now. Must just be a change in toe because I marked all my alignment cams and none of them shifted. They also have the Total Chaos Alignment Gussets.

I got slip light on solid and multi terrain light blinking the next day.
Didn't affect me too much as I could use my locker on the the trails.

I'm back home after a 600 mile drive (vehicle drove straight and no chopped up tire wear which was odd considering my steering wheel is heavily off center) and performed the zero point calibration in my driveway and crawl control calibration and it fixed my issue without any hassle.

Shout out to the Ozarks national forest! I live half my life out there . You know what trails you hit? It's neverending!

 

[DCM554]

help on 2021

Need some help on zero point cal for a 2021 after a clock spring removal. My OBD port only has pins 4,5,6,7 and 14,16 with wires. The older posts with 4 and 12 jumpers obviously won't work. Anyone have an updated procedure for 2021's? TIA Chris

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Need some help on zero point cal for a 2021 after a clock spring removal. My OBD port only has pins 4,5,6,7 and 14,16 with wires. The older posts with 4 and 12 jumpers obviously won't work. Anyone have an updated procedure for 2021's? TIA Chris

You shouldn't have to do a ZPC on the Yaw Rate for a clock spring removal? Steering Angle zero point is determined by driving the vehicle straight above 20mph for a short distance; it's not usually something you can manually calibrate with a Scan Tool on Toyotas. If the Steering Angle Zero Point is not calibrating properly and/or setting a DTC; the steering angle sensor could be damaged/failing. We have seen newer Toyotas (specifically 3rd Gen Tacoma and 5th gen Rav4 in my experience) where they were jump started and for whatever reason the steering angle sensor just died (that was covered under warranty, but I never have gotten an answer as to why that happens...)

Why did you take off the spiral cable on a 2021 vehicle? Were you replacing the steering column or something?

 

[Olivrwendl]

Cant clear calibration data

I have a 2011 4runner. Recently the horn quit working and I was able to diagnose a bad clock spring. I was able to replace it and get everything working but now I have the power steering light and slip indicator light are on in the dash. I think I need to recalibrate the steering sensor. I follow step two to clear the data , but after touching the wires 4 times my slip indicator light , which was already on starts flashing instead of just being on. When I then go to the next step , the light goes from flashing to just being on. This is the opposite of what should be happening. any ideas?