You guys make me want a TE

So.... here's the deal. I talked to my roommates tonight and they suggested to just trade in my SR5 instead of modding it. Their logic was that a soccer mom who wants the best MPG out of her 4runner would not be interested in a modded out 2wd 4runner. So, if I mod out a 2wd the soccer mom won't want it, but the offroad enthusiast will not want it either.

Their suggestion was to suck it up, get it right this time around and then drive the TE 4runner until it goes to the salvage lot. I think I'll go back to the dealer I bought it from when I get back from my deployment. Maybe they can help me out. At least I'll have the loyal customer argument on my side.

If you have a few weeks between deployments, why not try to sell it yourself first? Then try the trade in route. You could save many thousands.......just saying.
 
I guess I could try to sell it while I'm out here. I don't have many pictures though. Just the one in my avatar. I also have 2 months left before I can get back and do a transaction. I guess I might be able to get my roommate to help, but I dunno how I should do this.
 
I guess I could try to sell it while I'm out here. I don't have many pictures though. Just the one in my avatar. I also have 2 months left before I can get back and do a transaction. I guess I might be able to get my roommate to help, but I dunno how I should do this.

Various ways, ad's in the local newspaper, truck trader, Check out Craig's list on the net, there are other internet sites also. Your avatar photo might work, but I think other photos will help. Grab a cheap digital or maybe your roommate might have one. Hell, stick a sign on the window with the year, model, price and your phone number and park it out near a busy street. Of course if on private property, ask permission first, this includes grocery stores and the like. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the results. A couple of tips. If somebody wants a test drive, go with them. Payment with cash, certified check or money order only. And verify the certified check or money order is actually good. Check out the title and license plate transfer laws of your state. You should be good to go. And if it does not sell, well, then you can trade it in. Good luck. Be safe.
 
Thanks for the advice! I don't know if I'll park it out in a grocery store. I just get nervous about things like that. But I already put an ad up on Craigslist. I originally put it up for 33k, but now I think $32k is more realistic. I'll have my roommate put some ads up around the base too I guess.

I'm excited to get my TE. I just hope the dealer doesn't try to destroy me too bad. Think I can get $30k worth of trade in from the dealer?
 
Thanks for the advice! I don't know if I'll park it out in a grocery store. I just get nervous about things like that. But I already put an ad up on Craigslist. I originally put it up for 33k, but now I think $32k is more realistic. I'll have my roommate put some ads up around the base too I guess.

I'm excited to get my TE. I just hope the dealer doesn't try to destroy me too bad. Think I can get $30k worth of trade in from the dealer?

For trade value, you can expect low book value. Be it Kelly Blue Book, NADA, or Black book. There are also other sources that dealers now use that I am not aware of. Now, that assumes you are paying less then sticker price on the new vehicle. Think of it as a balance scale. The more you pay for the new car, the more the stealer can give you in trade for yours. Of course the opposite is true if you offer less for the new car.

This is why I do not trade in cars. Much easier to simply walk in and negotiate one vehicle at a time.....general rule of thumb, dealer has about 3k markup on a new vehicle he/she can play with. There are internet sites out there, I forget which ones, that can give you the Dealers Cost on any one particular vehicle. From there, you figure the rest out yourself. I feel 500.00 is probably a fair profit for a dealer, knowing good and well they have a "pack" or "hold back" built into the dealers invoice price produced by the factory. (That's a certain hidden profit for the dealer, kind of a rebate from the factory). Assures that the dealer can at least keep the lights on and pays the employees. This is why the dealer can come out and say, see I sold it too you for 1% UNDER my invoice etc. etc. It is because they are getting a 2 or 3 or 4% kick back from the factory. It's a game, but generally, not much choice but to play.
 
FWIW, a dealer locally took my 2010 SR5 4x4 with all options in for $30k in trade with more miles (they sold it in Feb, was traded in Aug). I bought it for $31k the day the deal was approved by TF for the previous owners deal.
 
Last edited:
Question... I just priced the TE with KDSS on USAA.com and they are saying the USAA price is $37,257. Is that a good price? Or would you consider that a starting point for negotiation?
 
Question... I just priced the TE with KDSS on USAA.com and they are saying the USAA price is $37,257. Is that a good price? Or would you consider that a starting point for negotiation?

Thats about what I paid for mine w/o nav last july.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top