4runner_kid
Senior Member
I'm rocking a mishimoto catch can on my track car, which isn't a very big can but i don't have any blow by so it doesn't fill.
Mishimoto is good stuff.
Mishimoto is good stuff.
1992 T4R 2LT slow build
- Thread starter Arild
- Start date
Mattew
New member
Realy? Good to hear since I order that catch can yday. It definetly looks good on pictures comared to others with similar price. And I hope it help me with my sometime smoky tailpipe. Also can wait to clean my intake pipes. Seeing Arild´s clean butterfly valve aka throttle body makes to want to do it
4runner_kid
Senior Member
Realy? Good to hear since I order that catch can yday. It definetly looks good on pictures comared to others with similar price. And I hope it help me with my sometime smoky tailpipe. Also can wait to clean my intake pipes. Seeing Arild´s clean butterfly valve aka throttle body makes to want to do it
I'm running mishimoto catch can, oil cooler, fan and fan switch. Havn't had a single issue with any of their products yet and will continue to use them.
Mattew
New member
Oh, you convert from mechanical to electric fan? Any pros and cons on that you can share? I like classic mechanical tho.
4runner_kid
Senior Member
That's all on my track car.
But my Toyota does have a electric fan just cause the 3VZE likes to blow the fan through the radiator.
So we arrived in Italy! The 4Runner did great. No problems at all. The temps were my biggest concern but the engine stayed cool even when crossing the alpes. (went via the Grand-Saint-Bernard Tunnel)
What i learned:
No big updates for the next 2 weeks but i can't wait to put on her new shoes and new rear springs when we're back home.
What i learned:
- Keep engine between 2000 and 3000rpms. Above it is a waste of fuel, below it is black smoke (but only when pulling up hard).
- It does vibrate a bit. Even when cruising at 90km/h.
- Do not hurry!
- We topped our speed at 100km/h. All day. And i was surprised about the fuel consumption. We got below 10L/100km. I still have to verify that when we're back home.
No big updates for the next 2 weeks but i can't wait to put on her new shoes and new rear springs when we're back home.
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Thanks. I'm not %100 sure about the fuel usage below 10L/100. Sounds too good to be true. The ODO doesn't work so we might have calculated it wrong.
About 'being in good shape...'
As of yesterday, she blows out some blue/white smoke at cold start. Not much but it's there. She does that until the engine is hot.
No power loss, no oil in coolant, no white sludge. We are at 1800m above sea-level and it's 8C° at night.
I also noticed that the idle rpm is set to low. It's supposed to be between 700 and 850. Mine is running at 600/650rpm. Hence the vibrations at cold start.
About 'being in good shape...'
As of yesterday, she blows out some blue/white smoke at cold start. Not much but it's there. She does that until the engine is hot.
No power loss, no oil in coolant, no white sludge. We are at 1800m above sea-level and it's 8C° at night.
I also noticed that the idle rpm is set to low. It's supposed to be between 700 and 850. Mine is running at 600/650rpm. Hence the vibrations at cold start.
Mattew
New member
Fuel arount 10 is normal. I did test mine by topping fuel tank, drove 100km then top it again. It was like 10.1 L of diesel. Once I did 495km and then top tank with 50.3L so I guess 10L/100km is mine fuel consumption cca.
I guess most cars produce some smoke when cold started especially in cold weather. And if smoke goes away when warm, I would not worry about that at all. Also when no oil in water or in reverse then we are golden. I have only small black puff of smoke when starting no matter outside temperature IF she is in good mood. Week ago after starting (after some driving) I just produce tons of white/blueish smoke whole time under any acceleration. That was 400km before and since then nothing. Weird.
Sadly my starter still don't want to crank okay when hot, almost stall. Need to check on that...
An 2L-T engine service manual says rpm its supposed to be between 700-800. Idk how to check beside rpm gauge and that is not most accurate thing.
I am atm working on adding on automatic idle up system for cold starts and a/c operation.
1800m and 8°? Wau I call that good
I am some 250 and its already 2°C at morning Need get some cold weather diesel already...
I guess most cars produce some smoke when cold started especially in cold weather. And if smoke goes away when warm, I would not worry about that at all. Also when no oil in water or in reverse then we are golden. I have only small black puff of smoke when starting no matter outside temperature IF she is in good mood. Week ago after starting (after some driving) I just produce tons of white/blueish smoke whole time under any acceleration. That was 400km before and since then nothing. Weird.
Sadly my starter still don't want to crank okay when hot, almost stall. Need to check on that...
An 2L-T engine service manual says rpm its supposed to be between 700-800. Idk how to check beside rpm gauge and that is not most accurate thing.
I am atm working on adding on automatic idle up system for cold starts and a/c operation.
1800m and 8°? Wau I call that good
I am some 250 and its already 2°C at morning Need get some cold weather diesel already...Ah the endless war against smoke... I guess we have to learn to live with it. It's inevitable with 20+ year old diesels with many km's. Only a serious engine rebuild could fix that i think.
So we're back from holiday (sadly) and filled her up with 48.99L diesel after 567km. That's 8.64L per 100km. I'ts difficult to believe but if it's true than i should be verry happy with it! No sign of smoke during the way back btw.
Anyway, time for some basic maintenance and i discovered something scary
The fan touched the (brand new) radiator:
You can clearly see the scrached surface:
It didn't hit the water channels but i think we were lucky. No leaks and the fan looks still ok. The radiator wasn't welded onto the two radiator mounts so it could move back and forwards. This is something i overlooked while installing the new radiator. Completely my own fault but lesson learned!
Made some ghetto-brackets for now to hold the rad in place:
Also changed the coolant again. Put in some radiator flush before the holiday:
Think i need to do it once more...
I guess we have to learn to live with it. It's inevitable with 20+ year old diesels with many km's. Only a serious engine rebuild could fix that i think. So we're back from holiday (sadly) and filled her up with 48.99L diesel after 567km. That's 8.64L per 100km. I'ts difficult to believe but if it's true than i should be verry happy with it! No sign of smoke during the way back btw.
Anyway, time for some basic maintenance and i discovered something scary
The fan touched the (brand new) radiator:
You can clearly see the scrached surface:
It didn't hit the water channels but i think we were lucky. No leaks and the fan looks still ok. The radiator wasn't welded onto the two radiator mounts so it could move back and forwards. This is something i overlooked while installing the new radiator. Completely my own fault but lesson learned!
Made some ghetto-brackets for now to hold the rad in place:
Also changed the coolant again. Put in some radiator flush before the holiday:
Think i need to do it once more...
SurfNTurf23
New member
I put a new rad and fan in my kz... first test drive fan tears into new rad and sprays fluid everywhere. That was a good 300 bucks lol
I guess the engine moves around more than an inch
I guess the engine moves around more than an inch
Mattew
New member
I do not much care about that some days there is cloud of smoke behind me when I hit gas pedal, but those guys at emision testing most likely would care. It seems she start smoking after starting after long drive. New piston rings would fix that I guess.
That fan thing sucks, but hey rad is still in one piece so not that bad. Your coolant looks clean compared to mine with brown color I am afraid of flush since I have old (original?) rad and I did hear stories about flushing rads only to find out they are leaking somewhere and debris inside did actually seal those leaks 
Talking about leaks, my rear axle start leaking :cry2:
That fan thing sucks, but hey rad is still in one piece so not that bad. Your coolant looks clean compared to mine with brown color
I am afraid of flush since I have old (original?) rad and I did hear stories about flushing rads only to find out they are leaking somewhere and debris inside did actually seal those leaks Talking about leaks, my rear axle start leaking :cry2:
OK, let's talk suspension. I was thinking about a moderate 2" suspension lift but i'm new to this and don't want to spend $$$$.
OME 901 springs for the rear and some ball joint spacers in the front?
What about shocks? And what about stressing the front CV?
Granted, i haven't searched for info yet. I know fj80 springs will fit but there aren't many fj80's here in belgium so prices are almost equal to new springs.
[edit] i talked to a 4wd dealer nearby and he suggested the following products:
Now that i list them here, i don't see any indication in the description about an actual lift at the rear.
OME 901 springs for the rear and some ball joint spacers in the front?
What about shocks? And what about stressing the front CV?
Granted, i haven't searched for info yet. I know fj80 springs will fit but there aren't many fj80's here in belgium so prices are almost equal to new springs.
[edit] i talked to a 4wd dealer nearby and he suggested the following products:
- Coil springs rear: Pedders Trakryder Coil Spring 7280
- Front shock: Pedders Trakryder Gas 4x4 Shock 9143
- Rear shock: Pedders Trakryder Foam Cell Shock 9532
- Steering damper: Pedders Trakryder 35mm Steering Damper
Now that i list them here, i don't see any indication in the description about an actual lift at the rear.
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Found another 2" lift kit on roughtrax:
PEDDERS & SUPLEX 2" SUSPENSION LIFT KIT
This one is €100 cheaper and comes with 2 new torsion bars. Total price is €570 ($659) for the kit (incl. shipping costs).
Am i on the right track here?
PEDDERS & SUPLEX 2" SUSPENSION LIFT KIT
This one is €100 cheaper and comes with 2 new torsion bars. Total price is €570 ($659) for the kit (incl. shipping costs).
Am i on the right track here?
Mattew
New member
I can't give you advice since I have no information about lifts. Since they are completely illegal in my country I do not bother...
My opinion about stressing drive train, yes it will be additional stress to it. It was designed for some height so now it sits in sorts of neutral position. Lift will move it out this neutral position unless rest of drive train is modified to compensate that. But I can be wrong.
Those are good looking parts BTW. All of them, but 660€ is overkill. But if you got money, then hey, why not.
My opinion about stressing drive train, yes it will be additional stress to it. It was designed for some height so now it sits in sorts of neutral position. Lift will move it out this neutral position unless rest of drive train is modified to compensate that. But I can be wrong.
Those are good looking parts BTW. All of them, but 660€ is overkill. But if you got money, then hey, why not.
4runner_kid
Senior Member
The only way to not stress the cv axle with a bj spacer lift is also doing a diff drop kit.
I know this has been asked over a 1000 times and i'm doing my research but it's difficult to translate in my own language.
Actually, 1" of lift is enough for me. But i need new suspension anyway and those lift kit's often come as 2" minimum.
Is it possible to lift the front that much without stressing out steering components, CV and other things? Looking for the sweet spot here...
I can live with a 1" lift up front and 2" lift in the rear. The rear will drop anyway with a roof top tent, bumper, spare tire and 2 bikes loaded. I have no plans for a winch-bumper.
Maybe just a 2" lift at the rear and a 1" front lift by cranking the torsion bar??
What are my options here?
(now reading on yota tech forum: 2nd gen 4runners lift guide)
Actually, 1" of lift is enough for me. But i need new suspension anyway and those lift kit's often come as 2" minimum.
Is it possible to lift the front that much without stressing out steering components, CV and other things? Looking for the sweet spot here...
I can live with a 1" lift up front and 2" lift in the rear. The rear will drop anyway with a roof top tent, bumper, spare tire and 2 bikes loaded. I have no plans for a winch-bumper.
Maybe just a 2" lift at the rear and a 1" front lift by cranking the torsion bar??
What are my options here?
(now reading on yota tech forum: 2nd gen 4runners lift guide)
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