2 many broke runners build

Number 1 reason for doing spring swap
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Also in this pic I didn't have a rear locker. Still would have to get drug up this hill.

Here's my before frame height 21" on 37s
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Had to move to the other side of the shop. So for now have some stuff half together enough to roll outside.
Forgot my backing plate eliminator rings at home but bolted this FROR tacoma brake swap kit on.
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Got the hi steer centered up toe is close.
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And for now my old hubs and rotors(need hubs turned down and taco rotors)
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And with out brakes steering or shocks.
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Sitting way to high
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Gained 5 inches in height:wtf:
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Didn't get a lot done last weekend so no update, cleaned the shop. Cleaned for 2 hours, installed a blower motor in a Bonneville. Managed to get the plasma torch out for a hour or so. Cut off old spring hanger, torsion adjustment bracket and my raised horsecollar.



Me and rylan got lots done today. Was so busy only got a few pics. We disconnected the wiring harness from ecm, all the vacuum hoses, brake lines, heater hoses, battery. Anything that wont allow body to be lifted off the frame/drivetrain.

We than removed both front seats/console. Here's rylan taking off the shifter boot and t case shifter

While he worked inside I took off the crossmember.

Then rylan helped me remove the transfer case bolts after draining of coarse.


Here's the case out



Made a hoist for the transmission


Than we moved to the rear where we switched holes in the shackle again
Here's ride height


Full droop

Didn't get after shot but it has 6.5" of down travel and we raised the rear an 1".
It's still a good 3" higher in the front >:(
 
Alot of people end up running a 2" block in the back to make up for the height. Rear looks like it flexes well, but the front looks like its hardly moving? Do you have flex shots after taking a leaf out?
 
Sorry busy today I do have pics after me and my son pulled that Downey leave.
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I don't think this cherry picker flex test is the best method. I'm going to get the body lift off. Buy my buddies bead locks with 37" pitbulls. And flex for mounting bumps and shocks. But I have to be able to drive it around the back of the building( big pile of logs ).
 
Alot of people end up running a 2" block in the back to make up for the height. Rear looks like it flexes well, but the front looks like its hardly moving? Do you have flex shots after taking a leaf out?

I don't really want to run a block in the rear. The springs I got are like new, so don't want to replace. What about doing the ZUK mod like the the saggy original springs would need?
 
Not much progress with the holidays and all. I sold my trans am so now I have some funds for stuff.
Got the donor case torn down.
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Pressed the low speed gear off. Need to cut down the shift rod. And weld the key stock to the shift fork.

Went to steel yard and got some DOM tubing for sliders.
Also got some pieces of 1/4 plate and 3/16.
Only got half the steel for square drivahaft. They didn't have the 2.5x2.5"
Square tube 'seamless' for receiver hitch.
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Well I found some stress cracks and pitting in the donor crawl box housing. I went to my buddies house to get a different one.

ended up with this also


It's a 4.10 Hi pinion so a regear is needed. Also got a 4.88 with a locker in the deal.
Also got these
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Also got my buddy to throw in the bumper. But the front was still to high so Eric talked me into taking another leaf out.


leveled it out alot more




Im at 25.75 frame height on these 37's with tread.
shackle angle looks alot better also


 
lifted the rear

Me and rylan got the rear springs out and added some Cherokee/Durango leafs. It was a free set from a friend.
We cut them down a bit to match the chevies better. Didn't gain much maybe a 1".:nono:

Got the rear transfer case torn apart to put the twin sticks on.





Once to this point I could get the shift rails out to remove interlock pin
I didn't have to go this far but wanted to make sure the gears and bearings were ok.

The shift rail on the right has to be cut down 3/8" could easily been done in the case but I goofed and cut the one down in the crawl box so I swapped them.


 
Duals!!!!!

Also got the crawl box put together before it got really cold and 12" of snow.
Start with TIG welded keystock on the shift fork

Than clean coating off dual adapter coupler and grease

Install low gear

install spacer and as a assemble install into adapter plate


Flip over and install snap ring

Flip back over and install shift rail, fork and collar

Grease said needle bearing

Install low gear idler?

grease input needle bearing and install into coupler

Install input

Install dowels and gasket

Slide case housing

Don't forget to install bearing clips and studs also detent ball/spring and plugs(didn't picture this)
When everything is tight install to rear transfer case
 
Got a new truck to daily drive.



1994 Toyota pickup 2wd 2.4l 5speed with AC. Engine has a slight knock at part throttle.
Tires are 13 years old, was a little scary driving back from poplar bluff.
 
Lookin good man! Looks like shes flexin a little better now too with that leaf taken out. Love the tire and wheel combo too. Looks shes sitting pretty level now?
 
Thanks Hyde. I still want the front a little lower so may end up cutting the springs down in length. But for now I want to see how things turn out.

I got the energy suspension body bushings in also. Still having trouble sourcing 2.5x2.5 .25 square tube for receiver hitches. I got pre made piece from summit but has to much slop for a square drive shaft.
 
Got the steering box mocked up. Also the lift was no longer in use so got to use it finally.

Also got the diff checked out that I'll be using in the front axle. It's a 4.88 v6 carrier with lunch box locker.
 

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