255/75/17 installed! Pics:-)

Thanks for your help, I think I am just looking at this as a replacement for the stock tires that are taller to get me by for a while. living in AZ don't have to deal with alot of rain and snow.

My guess is they'll work well for you. If you run between 35-37psi (assuming it's a 44psi max) you'll even use a touch less gas:bigok:
 
UPDATE:

Just cause saw this at the top.... I love my tires! I solved the rubbing by trimming half of the front mudflaps (vertically).. Now no rubbing and amazing tire. I think the 4runner looks so much better and especially when compared to another one right next to it!

Snow conditions:
Can you stop this rig? Seriously just goes right down the road like there is nothing. No hydroplaning like the old tires and just feel great.
 
Wanted to update, I did not get the used tires, I went with the silent armors and could not be happier. Instant gratification when I sat in the truck and the ride is perfect. Driving to LA today so I will see how they do at higher speeds. Just that little bump in height has made me itch to lift it now.
 
yup, good tire. i dont understand why lots of guys seem surprised , GYSA have been suggested for years, right next to revos, check the old threads.
 
I got my GYSA this morning, $594 total for a set of 4. There is some rubbing when i turn the wheel at full lock, also it rubs alot more when im in reverse turning left/right. Looks like i need to do some trimming :[. Anyways GYSA are great tires, went to a trail with couple friends and i was just driving thru everything, i almost got stuck at one point where the snow was as tall as my tires BUT i didnt get stuck.. just almost.
 
I got my GYSA this morning, $594 total for a set of 4. There is some rubbing when i turn the wheel at full lock, also it rubs alot more when im in reverse turning left/right. Looks like i need to do some trimming :[. Anyways GYSA are great tires, went to a trail with couple friends and i was just driving thru everything, i almost got stuck at one point where the snow was as tall as my tires BUT i didnt get stuck.. just almost.

That's odd and a bit disappointing to hear... Wheelspacers? Are you rubbing mudflaps or the front of the fenderliner?

I just went out to mine and looked at mine (assuming you were rubbing the front side of the fenderliner). With a 10mm socket I was able to get myself even more clearance easily, no cutting. I loosened all of the bolts shown in the pics and held the parts forward while I resnugged the bolts. I re-tightened from the center out. All of the holes have 'slop'. By putting the liner and the lower bumper at the fwd limit of the holes you'll gain some clearance. The whole thing took me 6 minutes, tops!

I hope this can be a quick, easy adjustment for you that makes everything "right". Let us know how it works out.
:cheers:

IMG_0451.jpg~original



IMG_0452.jpg~original
 
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:iagree: if your not using wheel spacers, & your just rubbing the inner fenders, dont cut anything, move it forward like cj3flyer says
 
That's odd and a bit disappointing to hear... Wheelspacers? Are you rubbing mudflaps or the front of the fenderliner?

I just went out to mine and looked at mine (assuming you were rubbing the front side of the fenderliner). With a 10mm socket I was able to get myself even more clearance easily, no cutting. I loosened all of the bolts shown in the pics and held the parts forward while I resnugged the bolts. I re-tightened from the center out. All of the holes have 'slop'. By putting the liner and the lower bumper at the fwd limit of the holes you'll gain some clearance. The whole thing took me 6 minutes, tops!

I hope this can be a quick, easy adjustment for you that makes everything "right". Let us know how it works out.
:cheers:


:iagree: if your not using wheel spacers, & your just rubbing the inner fenders, dont cut anything, move it forward like cj3flyer says


I removed the nuts, but what do you mean by moving forward? Seems like i need to drill a hole for the new position if i moved the plastic liner forward..
Any help ? haha :bluejump:
 
I removed the nuts, but what do you mean by moving forward? Seems like i need to drill a hole for the new position if i moved the plastic liner forward..
Any help ? haha :bluejump:

Nevermind, found the guide on J.A.'s Site. Thanks J.A.!

"Moving the wheel well liner forward:
But after the installation was complete and I headed out for a test drive, I immediatly noticed tire rub on the inside front plastic wheel liners when turning the wheel at near full crank, or when encountering inclines/declines while moderatly turning the steering wheel. I anticipated this would be the case before the install and knew the fix was an easy one.

Looking underneath the vehicle where the front bumper meets the fender flare, you will find 2 10mm screws on the driver side and 3 on the passenger side. With the steering wheel turned so the wheel is turned fully into the well you will clearly see where the rubbing occurs. The tire was pressed right against the plastic liner. Remove the 10mm screws mentioned above, remove the plastic nutsert, push the liner forward as much as possible, and drill a new hole in the liner. You can discard the nutsert you removed, install a larger washer (I used a homemade rubber washer) and reinstall the screws."
 
Just took the plunge and purchased a set from discount tire's ebay acct for $492.00 shipped. Not bad at all. I wanted to get some FJ wheels but people are selling them imo for way to much right now. Hell there sweet, but for anything about $500 you can get killer after market wheels. I guess the money I saved on FJ Wheels for now can go to a toytec ultimate lift :)

Does 35 psi seem to still be the best for these tires? Just curious so I know where to tell the shop to set them.
 
Just took the plunge and purchased a set from discount tire's ebay acct for $492.00 shipped. Not bad at all. I wanted to get some FJ wheels but people are selling them imo for way to much right now. Hell there sweet, but for anything about $500 you can get killer after market wheels. I guess the money I saved on FJ Wheels for now can go to a toytec ultimate lift :)

Does 35 psi seem to still be the best for these tires? Just curious so I know where to tell the shop to set them.

You should shop around if the FJ wheels are what you want. I've seen them for a lot less than $500. Keep an eye on Toyota FJ Cruiser Community as there are some great deals there on stock parts. For instance:
$600 gets you wheels and BFG A/T's:
Wts:17" Oem Wheels + 265/70/17 Bfg At - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$350 for wheels:
FS (Socal): 5 OEM Alloys. - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$400 for wheels and stock tires:
FJ Cruiser 17" Alloy Wheels, Tires & Lug Nuts - SoCal - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$300 for stock rims:
WTS:OEM 17in Rims,Rack,TireCover,RunningBoards,SkidPlate - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
All you gotta do is wait for a set that's near you, shipping I'm sure would be high. Those links are just from the first page or two in the classified section, so I'm sure with some digging you could do better.

/threadjack

As soon as I can get my lift installed, I'm going in for 4 255/75/17 Hankook Dynapro ATMs. I started to get the Goodyears, but I can get these at a local shop for less than $100 more, so I think I'm gonna give them a try. Should I go ahead and move the fender liner before taking it in for the tires to be put on (will have ~1.5" lift in the front)?
 
You should shop around if the FJ wheels are what you want. I've seen them for a lot less than $500. Keep an eye on Toyota FJ Cruiser Community as there are some great deals there on stock parts. For instance:
$600 gets you wheels and BFG A/T's:
Wts:17" Oem Wheels + 265/70/17 Bfg At - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$350 for wheels:
FS (Socal): 5 OEM Alloys. - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$400 for wheels and stock tires:
FJ Cruiser 17" Alloy Wheels, Tires & Lug Nuts - SoCal - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
$300 for stock rims:
WTS:OEM 17in Rims,Rack,TireCover,RunningBoards,SkidPlate - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
All you gotta do is wait for a set that's near you, shipping I'm sure would be high. Those links are just from the first page or two in the classified section, so I'm sure with some digging you could do better.

/threadjack

As soon as I can get my lift installed, I'm going in for 4 255/75/17 Hankook Dynapro ATMs. I started to get the Goodyears, but I can get these at a local shop for less than $100 more, so I think I'm gonna give them a try. Should I go ahead and move the fender liner before taking it in for the tires to be put on (will have ~1.5" lift in the front)?

Yea i would say go ahead and move your liner foward an inch or two. Very easy.
 


Doesn't that figure, just my luck. By the time I pay to mount and balance these tires on the wheels I will be up near $600. I could have and easily would have drove to NJ seeing how I am not far from him. Grrrrr to bad I already paid right at check out or I would have just said I'd pay there listing fees and go to Jerz. I'm going to see if they will do a paypal refund. If not o well I guess :(
 
Does 35 psi seem to still be the best for these tires? Just curious so I know where to tell the shop to set them.

I have experimented with 32-38psi. 35psi seems to be the 'sweet spot' for me. I was expecting 37-38 to be awesome. 37-38 was a bit too firm for my tastes. For a P tire the GYSA has a very strong sidewall and even though the tire is a lot taller than OE you won't notice any extra sway (or sidewall roll/flex) at 35. In fact mine handles better than it did and rides about the same as with the 265/65's at 34psi.
 
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I finally got around to installing the 255/75/17s today -- it was time to swap out the set of winter tires & wheels.

I moved the fender liners forward before installing them. It was pretty easy to do, but a drill and some shears (to trim the fender liner material) are necessary.

I have no rubbing anywhere, and plenty of space in the front wheel wells to the front of the vehicle (where I moved the fender liners forward). The tightest clearance is in the front wheel wells, at the rear, where the mudflaps are: at 3/4 turned, there's maybe 1/2" of clearance between the tire and the mudflap.

I have a set of Bilstein 5100s to install when I get a free weekend. I got the adjustable height ones for the front end, which I'll use as a leveling kit to get a better stance on the vehicle and to get more clearance around the front tires.
 
It's been a while since I did an update, a few things have occurred with my GYSA's.

1) Kudos to the Wood & Fullerton GY store in Alpharetta; I had some very minor tire vibration. They took hours breaking down the tires and turning them on the rims to find the place where the least amount of balance weight would be required. During that process they decided to replace 2 of the 5 tires. I just went to FL and back and the tires are terrific. Good for the GY store for doing such a thorough and exhaustive balancing process but no-so-good for GY IMHO. I am disappointed that the QC allowed 1 bad and 1 suspect tire through.

2) On my trip to FL I, once again, achieved slightly higher mpg than with the Michelin CT's which is amazing (to me).

3) Today I took a 12 mile off-pavement, dirt road drive on some logging roads. None of the roads required 4wd however there were many places that required more ground clearance than a normal car. The surfaces varied from very rough (5-10mph) to washboard to heavy gravel. This is the first time I aired down from 35psi. With the pressure at 28psi it rode great, handled well and 28 is enough air to safely drive on the road (but not the highway IMHO). [Side-note: Based on the load margin with stock tires at 32psi these tires should be safe at 30psi for all road driving (based on the math).] At 28psi the washboard was easy and smooth; the handling at speeds up to 30mph felt very normal.

I then let down to 20psi... It was incredibly easy to control, rode so smooth and was an absolute joy to drive over the rough stuff. Based on the sidewalls appearance, flex and ride quality I'd say, for these tires, 18-20psi would be just right for off-roading. There seems to be plenty of sidewall stiffness/integrity and the risk of de-beading the tire or slashing a sidewall would be minimal. The contact patch was HUGE! The patch was very long but the sidewall still looked good and felt strong (but compliant). If I was beach driving I'd shoot for 12-14psi based on what I saw today. I don't think I'd want to go below 12psi for any reason.

All in all I still love the size and like the tires a lot.


:cheers:
 
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You're not the first person I have heard complain about Goodyear's quaility control. Otherwise good to hear the tires are working out for you. I can't wait to put some miles on mine.
 
You're not the first person I have heard complain about Goodyear's quaility control.

I know, such a shame. GY clearly has spent some money and done good work on tread patterns and rubber compounds. The vast majority of the tires for trucks and SUV's are USA or Canadian rather than Chinese. It would be nice if they had QC right.
 

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