2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump

[BlackWorksInc]

So I'm planning on basically doing a Major Service on the 4Runner this Friday. Basically Timing Belt, Water Pump, Transmission Fluid Flush, ect. After spending quite a while searching the thread I didn't find a write-up on the process (surprisingly, I thought someone else did one already), so based on your guys enthusiastic support I'll do a write up!

The Goods:

Now, real quickly I'll tell you guys from my experience and the experience of my fellow elder and wiser techs that work with me I decided to skip over the idler bearings, the tensioner for the timing belt & drive belt, and also the seals for the cam & crank. Pretty much from what the guys have noticed over the years is that the idler bearings, tensioners, and seals on Toyotas don't go out nearly as much as say a domestic and to replace them only if you're having growling/ect. I was surprised as I'm used to replacing all that junk on Hondas and such, but decided to save myself some money and not use these parts, you can if you'd like.

Parts List:
(Pricing is what the dealer would charge you [the only exception being the engine oil as I got the pricing from Amsoil's website] I would recommend a website like Toyota Wholesale Parts - Authentic OEM Toyota Parts direct from Village Toyota Parts | Village Toyota Parts They are a great website that not only shows the part numbers but also pictures, I recommend it to everyone.)

• 13568-09070 Timing Belt $58.72
• 00295-00103 FIPG $13.82
• 90916-02585 Drive Belt $90.57
• 16100-09201 Water Pump $143.64
• 00272-SLLC2 Coolant (2 Gallons) $21.74 per Gallon
• 90916-03100 Thermostat $21.41
• 16346-50010 Thermostat Gasket $4.54
• 00289-ATFWS ATF WS (8Qts) $9.33 Per Quart
• ASLQT-EA Amsoil Signature Synthetic (8Qts) 5w-30 $10.15per Qt
• 1 Can Seafoam About $12

Here is the FSM section on replacing the timing belt on a 2005 Toyota 4Runner with a 2UZ-FE with VVTi; there is no difference between the non-VVTi and VVTi equipped engines in procedure other than the pictures being different.
View attachment 2UZ-FE VVTI Timing Belt.pdf

 

[Dominic]

So I'm planning on basically doing a major service on the 4Runner come Friday. I was wondering if you guys would like me to document the process so you can see how its done? (I love that the forum now lets you edit posts whenever you want! ) If you guys really don't care I'll just let the thread die, if you do I'll try and do a nice write-up for you guys.

Please do a write-up, it can help others do their timing belt and water pump too!
And it can save some money but time consuming.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

So lets just go ahead and dive on into this. First things first, drain the oil and coolant, there is a small white wing nut on the bottom Driver's side of the radiator, just turn that loose a few turns until you get a small stream (remember to leave the radiator cap off for good ventilation, also while you're down there on the passenger side two hoses will be clipped to the fan shroud; unclip this to make life easier later.) After you've drained the fluids, go ahead and pop off the plastic retaining clips for the trim panel that goes over the radiator & radiator support beam. This will expose the radiator to better gain access to what you're doing. Should look something similar to this after you've taken the air intake, unclipped the Throttle Body and tucked them behind to clear up the work space.

Now that you've opened up the engine bay a little, there are three 10mm bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the fan shroud, after removing the coolant reservoir there are two 10mm bolts on each side near the top edge of the fan shroud that secure it to the radiator, one is between the two bolts for the coolant reservoir and the second is just under the upper radiator hose bung. Now that you've gotten that all taken care of you'll notice that even though you can pull up on the fan shroud and loosen it, you need to get the clutch fan off first. That's where a nifty tool like this helps!

This really simple to use, just hook the end on one of the clutchfan bolts and then pull in the direction you need opposite force to counteract your 12mm wrench when loosening the bolts. After you've removed the 4 bolts hold the fan and shroud and pull them out together and set them off to the side. You should now have something that looks like this;

As you see I have conveniently noted the size and location of the drive belt tensioner. Use a long 14mm wrench or ratchet/breaker bar to pull tension off the belt and pull it off along with the pulley where the fan clutch attaches to. At this point you're going to want to remove the thermostat housing (two 12mm bolts secure it to the engine, the brass one and the small one to the right of it,) disconnect the coolant lines running to it, I would also recommend at this point that you follow the line jutting out from the right side of the thermostat housing and follow it to the throttle body (disconnect that) and then follow it down along the engine, undo the two 10mm bolts securing it to the engine and set a bucket under the hose as you pull it below engine level. This will completely drain the engine block of coolant. After you've taken off the thermostat, go ahead and take all the 10mm bolts & nuts securing the cam covers off (the grommet securing the cam sensor on the Driver's side is slotted to allow you to slip the connector through) and set them aside, you should now be able to see the timing belt and the water pump if you look inside.

The next step is going to be exposing the rest of the timing belt to remove it, you're going to need to remove the drive belt pensioner, to do this you'll need to remove the 14mm bolt that holds the alternator on as well, which you won't have enough clearance to remove without taking the power steering pump off also (we're talking literally 5mm, because some lazy Toyota engineer couldn't spare 5mm you need to remove the pump too...) The power steering pump is held by four 14mm bolts, 2 on the front of the engine the other 2 on the side accessible from the passenger side wheel well.

Also, for those of you wondering, the engine drain plug is located here also, its a 10mm bolt you undo and there's a nipple where you can fit a hose to direct drainage for cleaner results! (In the picture I actually have the coolant reservoir hose connected to it.)

After removing the power steering pump to get enough room to get the alternator off, to get enough room to get the drive belt tensioner off you've got only the other side to do! YAY! Remove the Philips head screw that secures a ground wire and brass colored cover plate over the joint where the A/C Compressor bolts to the engine.

(I'm sorry I was not able to get a good angle of this next section. ) After the cover plate is removed, go to the Driver's side wheel well and use a 14mm extension & swivel to remove the 3 bolts that secure the compressor to the engine. One bolt is hidden at the back of the compressor, the other is held in place with a small bracket and additional bolt that connects the compressor to the oil filter housing. After removing all these bolts you should be able to pop the compressor loose and let it hang along the frame.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Now that you've removed all the components in the way, unbolt the clutch fan pulley frame from the engine and set it aside. You should now be able to see the timing belt in all its rubbery, fibery glory and the water pump! If you're water pump was leaking like mine you'll see a giant crusty blob on the driver's end of the pump in a nook on the block webbing. But it should look something like this; (I like to shove rags in coolant, oil, and intake passages to prevent things from getting lost.)

Now before you take the crankshaft off, I'd turn the engine so that the white mark matches the dot on the plastic cover, not the TDC mark! (This is optional really, I just did this because I am anal retentive sometimes!)

After the crank is now at (IIRC its something like 50* Before TDC or whatnot) you'll notice your cams should be lined up with these raised lines on the valve cover faces (The ones next to the "T" in the picture.) If they don't just rotate the crank again and line it up with the marks. These are the correct timing marks, with the pulley at its white dot, the cams should line up about exactly with these lines. If it doesn't you now have an example of a stretched belt (happens to everyone so don't feel self-conscious! )

Just pop off that big 'ol 22mm Crank Bolt (It'll be a pain since you can't get an impact in there...) and wiggle the pulley off the crank, (VERY IMPORTANT! DO NOT LOSE THE RELUCTOR PLATE!) After the pulley is removed you'll see a small V notch cut into the crank gear, this should line up with a small pimple where that white dot on the plastic cover was. Its almost easy to mistake it for a defect in casting so look carefully! I know its hard to see in this picture, but that's it right there.

The Blue Arrow indicates the location of the timing belt tensioner, two 12mm bolts secure it. Just undo them and remove the grenade from its hole (more on that later!) After this is done you should be able to get the timing belt off easily. This will leave you with the water pump! (No that's the new water pump installed already in the following picture, my before picture was too blurry. )

You'll need to remove the 12mm bolts and studs that secure the water pump to the engine, you'll also need to remove these two idler pulleys to get to the bolts and to get the water pump off the engine. It might be stuck on there so you may have to pry it off, but once its loose just wiggle it along the studs to slide it off. Remember to replace the O-ring on the tube before installing the new water pump.

Now to what I affectionately refer to as the Toyota Hand Grenade! This is what we use for timing belts and timing chains to provide tension on them, screw that noise about whimpy springs! Real engines use a miniature hydraulic ram with a special factory pull pin! Oorah! All fun aside, you can use a vice or c-clamp to carefully and SLOWLY compress the tensioner (in the picture I removed the dust boot so you can see the alignment pin, in normal service the boot stays on.) and then stick a paper clip or if you have the super secret Toyota Factory Pull Pin (Serious it looks like a grenade pull pin...) stick it in the hole all the way through to hold the tensioner down before you reinstall it. After you've aligned the timing belt (to the marks described earlier,) rotate the engine manually at least 2 times to ensure proper timing and installation. A tip I should mention (I am embarrassed to say, as creative as I am I did not think of this myself) use a pair of black binder clips to hold the belt onto the pulleys when installing the timing belt so they don't jump a tooth. After the belt is aligned, install the tensioner and pull the pin to set tension on the belt. Everything from here on out is a reverse of what you've just done.

One thing to note, the thermostat housing calls for FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) on the square outlet flange. Replace the O-ring and then use FIPG or any coolant & oil safe high quality sealant will work; squeeze a 2mm bead into the slot and then bolt onto the engine. Its easy to use too much, so remember you want just enough to fill the slot and squish against the flange, a little goes a long way here. Also at this time it would be good to replace the thermostat with a new one and apply a new rubber gasket to the edge of it (black portion in picture.)

I'm not going to go into a great deal of detail on the transmission fluid flush as there are other good threads about this, but I will touch on this briefly. There is a 14mm DrainPlug, a Allen (forgot the size) Drip Plug (this is used to check the fluid level of the ATF after pumping it in,) and a 24mm fill plug located on the passenger side of the transmission, close to the end where it mates with the transfercase its a bit easy to miss. After removing all 3 of these plugs, let the fluid drain out, reinstall the drain plug and then pump the new WS ATF into the fill port like you would a manual trans or differential (I recommend buying the Toyota WS Fluid hand pump, it works better than your generic ones you get at autoparts stores.) until it dribbles out of the Drip Port. Put the plug for the drip port back in and run the engine for a minute or two to cycle the fluid, drain and repeat until you feel its where you want it. When you're ready for the last fill up, install the DripPlug; then idle the vehicle until the trans temperature reaches between 97*F~115*F (Using either a scantool that can get you this data, an IR Thermometer, or the procedure utilizing the dash lights), then turn the vehicle off and undo the Drip Plug, you should have small drips coming out of the hole. If there is a stream, let it drain out. If you got nothing, fill it up and make sure its at the proper temperature. Tighten everything back up, you're good to go!

This was my fluid when I drained it (the brown stuff @ 99,909mi) and after flushing 8qts of WS fluid through it. This is why I seriously doubt ANY manufacturer that says their fluid is "lifetime," Transmission fluid especially, it is one of the hardest working fluids in the vehicle; I just don't see how they could make it last more than 100k, let alone "LifeTime!" I'm going to go with a 60k ATF Flush regiment since I tend to wheel my truck a lot. Also, I did notice a difference in shift pattern after putting the new fluid in.

 

[JB.]

I have not ruled out the idea of tackling this myself. I'd love to see the write-up. It would be especially valuable since you're around here a lot and the thread could be a good platform for follow-up Q&A on the details.

 

[jdkilroy]

Your time and effort on this one will be well appreciated Blackworks !

I like the glass Coke bottles in the background !

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Your time and effort on this one will be well appreciated Blackworks !

I like the glass Coke bottles in the background !

Oh hehe, I keep meaning to bring to home to toss in the recycle bin. Costco is awesome, like $20 bucks for a 24pack of glass bottle coke!

 

[duncaterro]

it would be interesting and I'm sure others can benefit.

 

[only1]

subscribed.

 

[Gatafly]

I see one problem. . . . . .you should use Amsoil WS ATF.

 

[03_4x4Runner]

When I did mine I installed new radiator hoses, heater hoses, oil cooler coolant hoses and new coolant hoses to the throttle body. I got all of them from Toyota and they are not that expensive. I could not see putting 9 year old hoses back on and it was easy to do with everything removed on the front of the engine.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I see one problem. . . . . .you should use Amsoil WS ATF.

I get the WS Fluid pretty cheap and I have a few extra quarts laying around from other work.

When I did mine I installed new radiator hoses, heater hoses, oil cooler coolant hoses and new coolant hoses to the throttle body. I got all of them from Toyota and they are not that expensive. I could not see putting 9 year old hoses back on and it was easy to do with everything removed on the front of the engine.

That's an interesting point, I think I will do that in the next 100k to be honest with you. I'm not saying its a good idea, in my mind it just seems impractical to replace all the hoses on the vehicle at such a relatively low mileage (from a modern vehicle reliability standpoint.)

I think the rubber hoses used on vehicles in the past decade is much tougher than those of older vehicles. A lot of the hoses I've seen on many customer's cars tend to be in great condition. The only issue I could see is perhaps some built up inside of the hoses themselves, but this would be caused by poor maintenance more than anything.

 

[Bob J]

A write up with lots of pics would be awesome! Much appreciate you offering to do this! :thanks:

 

[Sungod]

It isn't just coke in a glass bottle. It is Mexican coke that is made with real sugar instead of corn syrup. It is GOOD!

 

[derekdevasia]

I think this would be great! I did find however on youtube the entire process of replacing the water pump and timing belt on the 4.7 tundra engine. Does anyone know of any differences?

How To Replace Toyota Tundra Timing Belt 2002 V8 Disassemble Front of Engine PART 1 1AAuto.com - YouTube

they have a 3 part series

 

[Sungod]

I think this would be great! I did find however on youtube the entire process of replacing the water pump and timing belt on the 4.7 tundra engine. Does anyone know of any differences?

How To Replace Toyota Tundra Timing Belt 2002 V8 Disassemble Front of Engine PART 1 1AAuto.com - YouTube

they have a 3 part series

The You Tube videos are pretty much right on. Slight difference with the skid plate and the removal of the radiator. The core part of it is the same. The one thing that I didn't do and was in the FSM and the video was remove the AC compressor. I just got it loose and it was good. Removing it and installing it would be a hassle. Everything else like the tip on how to remove the fan was spot on. Mine is an 03 without VVTi. I don't know if that makes any differnce with belt alignment.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Damn...they already made a Youtube? Anyways! You guys haven't been forgotten! Its been hectic, yesterday my pliers decided that my eyeball was a good home, though my glasses objected and they settled on a lacerated eyelid and bruised cornea! Yay! *Sarcasm* Thankfully no permenent damage.

I did get the Timing Belt and water pump done today, didn't have time for the trans fluid flush, will do tomorrow if I get free time. I was looking through all the pictures I took and it looks like half of them were blurry! So I don't have as many good pictures as I was hoping. I don't have time tonight to upload them off my phone and do the write-up but I'll try either tomorrow or Saturday to get it done!

 

[Pnutcar]

Can't wait, since I'm about to do this. Thanks!

-Todd

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Annnnnd Updated with pictures and story! Hope you guys find it helpful!

Once again, sorry this is about half of the pictures I wanted to use originally. In my excitement I blurred like 20 more pictures I had taken and ended up being unusable.

EDIT- I find it funny that now that I've posted everything up no one has anymore comments or questions! LOL

 

[JB.]

Thanks for doing this.

I don't want to be too quick on the draw with the questions, as I want to make sure I glean everything I can from the writeup and pics first.