I have been wanting to do this. Is it the same for a vvti 4.7? Is the fan easy to pull?
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump
- Thread starter BlackWorksInc
- Start date
I have been wanting to do this. Is it the same for a vvti 4.7? Is the fan easy to pull?
It's kind of annoying, but not difficult. This video was helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAyVisRT_gs
I used a 12mm box wrench and vise grips (because I didn't have a second box wrench). I pushed on one nut to resist the fan spinning while I turned a nut next to it, if that makes sense. As you try to loosen one nut it will try to rotate the fan because torque. By holding another nut and pushing against the rotation of the fan it keeps the fan from rotating without tightening the other nut more.
I forgot to tighten the fan nuts when I put it back together, but it turns out they are self tightening! (Do not try it at home!) I'm really glad my fan didn't fall off.
The procedure is the same for vvti or older engines.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], in your post at the beginning of the thread I noticed two issues. First, the jiggle valve on the thermostat should be within +/- 30 degrees of the 12 o'clock position per the service manual, but yours looks like it's around 9 or 10 o'clock. Second, the transmission fill plug needs a 24mm standard depth socket, not 21mm that you stated (at least on my 2007 and in the ATF Exchange Using The Cooler Line thread). I just want to help anyone working on this in the future.
Thanks for this awesome thread! I just bought my v8 today, and was curious about this costly service. I've only got 37k on my 2008 Sport so it will be a couple of years at least, but I'm wondering if there's also a time limitation (not just miles) to getting this done?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BlackWorksInc
New member
Good call on the 24mm socket, I must have been thinking of something else when I wrote it as 21mm. It is in fact a 24mm hex head for the fill plug. The Thermostat was more than likely corrected when I finished the job (it should ideally be around 12'o clock position as it helps bleed air pockets out when the engine is cold), some of the pictures were quick snap shots as I did the job so I wouldn't forget as I tend to get "hyper-focused" when doing work and will neglect to take pictures.
Toyota States 9yr/90k on the timing belt, I would say not to push it too much beyond 9yrs; like all rubber items it will degrade over time.
My boss has a Land Cruiser with 275k ish on it and I asked him when and how many times he has changed the timing belt as I was curious about finding somewhere local besides the dealer to do the work and he looked at me like I was nuts. He has never changed it. Literally only oil changes, brakes, and two batteries. Crazy.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Well, then he's very lucky and playing with fire. Just because Toyota says 9yr/90k doesn't mean they can't last longer. But honestly I wouldn't feel comfortable running them beyond 110k-ish; it's an interference motor and the couple times I've seen them ruined has been mainly from people trying to avoid doing their timing belts, the other time was because someone managed to overheat his engine and just cooked it good.
I'm with ya. I have 130k and feel like I'm driving a ticking time bomb. Hoping to get it done in the next month. Just crazy that some are out there with that kind of mileage.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JeratBP
Member
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump
I'm getting ready to this job this Saturday. I bought the AISIN kit, along with the other parts for my '05 Sport.
I think I understand, after reading the write up and having watched 1a Auto's videos along with a few others.
The old belt should be at "0" with the cams both at the "I" mark. I move it to the 50 degree white mark, and the cams at the "T". Remove CS bolt, cover and plate. Remove tensioner and old belt. Replace WP and bearings with new. Put on new belt and line up still at "T" marks. Put new tensioner on. Reinstall CS cover, plate and pulley. Then manually move crank (with spark plugs removed) at least 2 full rotations. If all is well put CS back to "0" and cams should be at "I" marks, then put everything back together.
Do I have that right?
I'm getting ready to this job this Saturday. I bought the AISIN kit, along with the other parts for my '05 Sport.
I think I understand, after reading the write up and having watched 1a Auto's videos along with a few others.
The old belt should be at "0" with the cams both at the "I" mark. I move it to the 50 degree white mark, and the cams at the "T". Remove CS bolt, cover and plate. Remove tensioner and old belt. Replace WP and bearings with new. Put on new belt and line up still at "T" marks. Put new tensioner on. Reinstall CS cover, plate and pulley. Then manually move crank (with spark plugs removed) at least 2 full rotations. If all is well put CS back to "0" and cams should be at "I" marks, then put everything back together.
Do I have that right?
Last edited:
That sounds right to me. Anyway, the most important thing is that after it's done it should be the same as before. When you open it up it should be obvious.
**I just remembered the reason they recommend removing the sparkplugs is so you can feel if there is resistance, like the pistons hitting valves. I didn't remove them, but you could if you want to. I still don't think it's necessary if you are confident that everything is lined up correctly.
Last edited:
BlackWorksInc
New member
That sounds about right, the "T" marks are a service position so that if the cam slips it doesn't slam into the pistons like it would at TDC. I am thinking with how much confusion there is in this thread regarding those two marks I may have to delete this thread and re-write it in the near future so that it's clearer and people don't confuse themselves.
That sounds about right, the "T" marks are a service position so that if the cam slips it doesn't slam into the pistons like it would at TDC. I am thinking with how much confusion there is in this thread regarding those two marks I may have to delete this thread and re-write it in the near future so that it's clearer and people don't confuse themselves.
Please don't delete the whole thread! It has a good position in the Google search rankings, and there is lots of good info in all the old posts, even if some of it is confusing.
I think a lot of confusion comes from the fact that the text and at least one of the photos in your first post is probably incorrect or confusing (but it's been a while since I did the belt, so I might not remember correctly now). I'm fairly sure where you talk about and show the crank pulley lined up with the | mark it should be the T since the crank is at the white dot position. I guess "T" means Timing belt service position, not Top dead center. And in that case, I don't know where the mark on the crank timing gear should be. I couldn't see a mark from the top, so maybe it lines up with something near the bottom. I just made my own marks with sharpie.
And there's fact that the service manual is extremely confusing, poorly written, contradictory. (which we discussed in a previous post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump-12.html#post2482702 )
Last edited:
BlackWorksInc
New member
I didn't consider the Google Search rankings...
Basically the " | " is TDC and the "T" is a service position. But for some reason the FSM doesn't list it and my write-up was based on the FSM using TDC so that people can reference the FSM .pdf and the thread. Which in retrospect may not have been the best idea since there is the possibility of having a cam slip and maybe ding a valve.
I'll have to consider my options because I'd hate to throw away all the good information from others, but I don't want to confuse people anymore than it's been pointed out in so many pages. lol
JeratBP
Member
Maybe just edit your original write up with the highlights that were discussed, with an asterisk or in bold or something.
superman3043
Senior Member
I'd edit the original portion to have people note or take a picture of how it is set up when they take the cover off and put the new belt on the same way. Like set to TDC and note cam positioning at that time. I know I found every piece of information very confusing because what this write up said, seemed to conflict with the set of instructions I had with the parts, which conflicted with what I actually saw on the engine. In the end, having somebody with experience as well as common sense guide me, got me through the process. If I'd have followed what this write up said to a "T", I would have no doubt bricked my engine. But basically if it was running when you opened it up, put it back together the same way. Makes sense to me.
Last edited:
