2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump

2UZ-FE Major Service Write Up? Yar/Nay?


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Got crank bolt off with a deck board, drilled like 1A Autos

The wood used was Ipe, rather than a standard 2x4 cause we bent the bolts with the 2x4. It took some time to drill the Ipe, but worth it.

I made a crank pulley holder out of steel, but it still bent the bolts and ruined the threads in my crank pulley. I recommend grade 8 bolts (or whatever they call high grade metric bolts, maybe something different). I ended up wrapping the serpentine belt around the pulley and looping it over the upper control arm to hold it.

The tensioner looks about right, but I didn't look at mine in detail. The belt should feel very tight.

Which is the Gant thermostat? Hopefully the new one has the small jiggle valve that helps bleed air out. If not it's probably not a big deal, but it might take longer to get the air out of the system. The valve should be within +/- 30 degrees from the 12 o'clock (top) position.
 
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump

I made a crank pulley holder out of steel, but it still bent the bolts and ruined the threads in my crank pulley. I recommend grade 8 bolts (or whatever they call high grade metric bolts, maybe something different). I ended up wrapping the serpentine belt around the pulley and looping it over the upper control arm to hold it.



The tensioner looks about right, but I didn't look at mine in detail. The belt should feel very tight.



Which is the Gant thermostat? Hopefully the new one has the small jiggle valve that helps bleed air out. If not it's probably not a big deal, but it might take longer to get the air out of the system. The valve should be within +/- 30 degrees from the 12 o'clock (top) position.



My belt was tight with a small amount of play.

Sorry, Stant thermostat not Gant.
What do you mean the 12 o'clock position? Maybe I need to remove the thermostat from the housing and check it. I haven't reinstalled it yet.
 
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My belt was tight with a small amount of play.

Sorry, Stant thermostat not Gant.
What do you mean the 12 o'clock position? Maybe I need to remove the thermostat from the housing and check it. I haven't reinstalled it yet.

There is a tiny valve that moves if you shake the thermostat. You can see it at the very bottom of the bottom thermostat in your picture. When you install the thermostat in the housing, you should rotate the thermostat so that it's at the top, so that the tiny valve can help bleed out air. It's described in the factory service manual procedure. You can download the FSM from a link on this forum somewhere, but I don't have a copy with me right now. The valve is also shown in one of BlackWorksInc's photos, but in the wrong position (to the side, I think), which I pointed out in a previous post.

If you already refilled the coolant and got the air out, I wouldn't worry about it. I suspect air will work its way out of the system eventually.
 
I didn't notice a valve on the Stant. I may leave it in there a short time and the replace it with the OEM

# 90916-03100
On Amazon for $17.50
 
Yeah, no valve like the OEM. So which way does this thing face?

e228b208d9f59eab8c398bfed1808fa6.jpg
 
It doesn't matter how you rotate it if there is no jiggle valve. There is a correct front/back direction, so make sure you get that right (coolant has to flow the right way through the thermostat).
 
It doesn't matter how you rotate it if there is no jiggle valve. There is a correct front/back direction, so make sure you get that right (coolant has to flow the right way through the thermostat).



Ok then, what is the proper direction to face the thermostat?
 
Is there anybody in the Austin TX area who would be willing to help a newbie get this job done? I would be willing to pay $$ for assistance. I'm not quite experienced enough to tackle it on my own, and the cheapest quote I've gotten so far is $1000. I'd like to get it done for somewhere less than that. There is a possibility I might need cam and crank seals done too. (VVT-I)
 
Tool type Schley 64300 worked on a 2007 4Runner V8 for holding the crankshaft pulley during crankshaft bolt removal and Torquing the bolt back to 181 ft-lbs. The crank bolt may also be removed using an impact gun and short 22mm impact socket. I asked about 5 4Runner owners if they had the tool with no luck. The local parts stores didn't have it for sale or loan. The price new is $60+ online but I picked it up on Craig's list for $35. I don't mind loaning the tool to members in Winston-Salem.
 
I didn't consider the Google Search rankings...

Basically the " | " is TDC and the "T" is a service position. But for some reason the FSM doesn't list it and my write-up was based on the FSM using TDC so that people can reference the FSM .pdf and the thread. Which in retrospect may not have been the best idea since there is the possibility of having a cam slip and maybe ding a valve.

I'll have to consider my options because I'd hate to throw away all the good information from others, but I don't want to confuse people anymore than it's been pointed out in so many pages. lol
I did everything as per the FSM and it said to move the crank (with timing belt still attached) from the line up dimple for the oil pump 50 degree counter clockwise before removing the timing belt. This leaves the notch on the crank straight up and the notches on the cams about an inch to the left of the timing line on the cylinder heads. So, this is supposed to release all tension on the cams, but it actually loaded them and of course it eventually sprung ahead to the timing mark....then the next day I noticed the drivers side cam sprocket rolled to the left about 60-70 degrees. I heard a ping when the other side sprung ahead and that scared me....the otherside sprung back further, but I didn't hear that one.... This operation was supposed to prevent this from happening, but the FSM is clearly incorrect. Any ideas why it said to do this and does anyone think I bent a valve?

Thank you for posts and this website. I have found this website very useful for numerous DIY tasks for a couple years- every since I bought my first 4Runner. I have yet to post because I have always found great, helpful information.

I have the same unanswered "questions" as expressed above in post #90 of 210 posts on the timing belt change. I feel the discussion is incomplete for someone considering the timing belt change. I'm very grateful for Blackworkinc for posting as this discussion has provided me with hours of reading and days of thought in preparation leading up to my timing belt change.

I would like to request a reply from Toyota technicians that have weekly experience changing timing belts on a 2005-2009 4Runner 2UZ-FE (V8) or other vehicles under my comment #3 below to my following two questions.

Q1) Has the standard work for timing belt change (EM16 - EM24 Toyota Factory Service Manual for timing belt removal) been revised? If so, please clarify the revision(s).
Q2) If EM16 - EM24 is correct, and I do not plan to remove the camshaft timing pulley and cam shaft, is it standard practice to ignore the rotation of the crankshaft 50 degrees just prior to timing belt removal?

Below are a few comments in regards to why I ask. Some information that I will provide are indifferent and contradictory to some comments and suggestions in the discussion thread.

My Comments:

1.) The Aisin timing belt kit (TKT-021) instructions match EM16 - EM24 with exceptions to part names, terminology, and work sequence. For example, the removal sequence of the alternator (generator assembly) is step #9 in EM16 versus approximately step 19 in Aisin TKT-021 work sequence. TKT-021 contains an exploded view of parts and bubble number references. TKT-021 is not just a copy of the FSM. I believe this is a popular kit due to forum recommendations, OEM supplier made parts, and great value in comparison to dealer purchased parts. So, if the FSM is wrong, then so is the Aisin kit work instruction for my application.

2.) The Aisin TKT-021 kit came with six unique work instructions that clearly specify the Model, Year, and Engine Identification. The same kit can be used for a variety of vehicles, specifically GS400, GS430, Land Cruiser, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, 4Runner, GX470, SC430, Sequoia, Tundra. The kit parts are the same, yet the timing belt removal and/or installation instructions are somehow different among the six pages depending on the vehicle model, year, and engine.

3.) Therefore, as the owner of a 2007 4Runner, I only need page #2 (4Runner 4.7L V8 2005-2009). I will not use page #5 (4Runner 4.7L V8 2003-2004) or any other page provided. Based upon TKT-021 page #2, the only video or write-up that I can follow to the "T" must be performed on the following common vehicles:

4Runner 4.7L V8 2005-09
GS 430 4.3L V8 2007
GX 470 4.7L V8 2005-09
Land Cruiser 4.7L V8 2007
LX 470 4.7L V8 2007
SC 430 4.3L V8 2005-2009
Sequoia 4.7L V8 2009
Tundra 4.7L V8 2009

Nevertheless, I will use videos and write-ups on all Toyota V8 engines because I know there will be some commonality, useful tools, and techniques discussed. This information is greatly appreciated.

4.) TKT-021 and EM19 clearly and boldly specify the same critical factor in regards to removal of the timing belt.
TKT-021 states:
Step #9: Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until notch on sprocket guide is aligned on the oil pump body.
Step #10: Ensure cam shaft sprockets timing marks are aligned
Step #11: Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by 50 degrees until notch on sprocket guide is at approximately the 12 o'clock position. NOTE: The camshaft sprocket timing marks will move approximately 25 degrees counterclockwise and will no longer be aligned.
EM-19 section #21 states the same instructions and adds the bold print critical factor:
NOTICE: If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and the valve head to come into contact with each other when removing the camshaft timing pulley and camshaft, causing damage. So, always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct angle.

EM-19 shows the same 50 degree counterclockwise positioning work instruction and diagram of the crankshaft placement prior to removing the timing belt.

5.) FYI- TKT-021 page #5 for 2003-04 4Runner 4.7L V8 does not include rotating the crankshaft pulley 50 degrees after timing marks are aligned. Pages #1 and #6 detail rotating the crankshaft clockwise 50 degrees prior timing belt removal.

6.) FYI- On the 2007 4Runner, when the notch on the sprocket guide aligns with the mark on the oil pump body, the camshaft sprocket timing marks align on both cams as required in the instruction. When the crankshaft is rotated 50 degrees counterclockwise, the cams get "loaded". Once the timing belt tensioner is removed, the timing belt falls off easily. However, the right cam "unloads" and rotates clockwise back near the timing mark. The left cam "unloads" and rotates counterclockwise beyond the mark.

7.) Both EM18 and TKT-021 specify the need to first return the cams to the installion positions (Right-side cam 1 tooth clockwise of alignment mark and left-side cam 1/2 tooth clockwise of the alignment mark). Then, both instructions specify to rotate the crankshaft sprocket guide back to alignment with the mark on the oil pump body. The "T" marks are never mentioned or shown on the instruction although they exist next to the camshaft sprocket timing marks.

8.) For installation of the new belt, both EM20 and TKT-021 detail the same instructions. EM-18 specified to mark the old belt prior to removal if marks are missing and you plan to reuse the belt. TKT-021 doesn't specify the need for transferring (verification) of the old marks to the new belt. However, this is necessary for confidence in installation of the new belt to marks at TDC (the same position that it came off as reiterated in many other posts). The new belt is installled 1 tooth off and 1/2 tooth off right and left side respectively of TDC marks for easy installation. However, once the timing belt tensioner is engaged, the cam marks self align to TDC (correctly under standard timing belt tension).
 
To add to the inconsistencies, there's another note in the FSM that says to never turn the engine CCW. I honestly don't think it will hurt anything if you need to do it though.

I don't think you'll find a consistent official set of instructions. There are some minor errors in the FSM (I think I pointed out some of them in a previous post). There are a couple minor errors in BlackWorksInc's post at the beginning of the thread, but we discussed them on the last few pages and maybe he also corrected the first post since then?

Other posts and videos are helpful for tips like how to remove the fan clutch and the crank pulley. The tool you suggested above is definitely the best type I've seen for the crank pulley, though I haven't used one. I made a homemade tool that bent and probably damaged the threads. I ended up holding the pulley with the old drive belt instead, but that's not the best idea since it could have bent something with the tension.

Honestly the hardest part was just getting to the timing belt. It took me 9+ hours to get to the belt, then less than an hour to change it, and a couple more hours to put everything back together.

Nothing moved more than maybe 1/2 tooth when I took the old belt off. You shouldn't have to move anything with the belt off or turn anything backwards. I made my own marks on everything to be sure I put it back on right. I couldn't get my head in there to see the factory marks on the crank pulley anyway, so the marks I made were helpful for that, and they allowed me to verify the marks on the new belt. As long as the new belt goes on with the same number of teeth between each gear as the old belt, and as long as nothing moves when you take off the old belt, all the marks don't matter.

I read a lot of posts before doing the change, and I can't think of anyone reporting that the cams were loaded and moved when they took the old belt off. If you're really worried you can rig up something to hold the cam gears in place while you change the belt.

It's been a while since I did the change, and I'm not a Toyota tech, so sorry if I can't answer your questions completely.
 
I can't verify what the FSM states in pages other than the pages pertaining to the timing belt change EM16-EM24 in hand; those pages do not state to "never turn the crank CCW". It specifies to turn the crankshaft damper bolt clockwise (only by the picture diagram) to align timing marks.

TKT-021 instructions page #2 states under the top header SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS: "Turn crankshaft in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated)".
 
Great write up. I'm going to read through this again soon since my parts are on the work bench just waiting for me to install them.


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My 2004 is coming up on 90k miles and 13yrs, so I'm going to tackle this job soon. It still runs as smooth, strong and quiet as the day I bought it back in 2004. Thanks for the write up and those that posted clarifications.

I did notice the first post shows only 2gal of coolant but various online sources say it hold 13 quarts. Should I expect to only need 2 gallons to refill what will be drained during the procedure or do I need to have 4 gallons on hand?

Are the crank/cam seals easy to get to while I'm at it? I don't have any leaks but the truck is getting up there in age so I just assume seals, gaskets will give up the ghost soon.
 
My 2004 is coming up on 90k miles and 13yrs, so I'm going to tackle this job soon. It still runs as smooth, strong and quiet as the day I bought it back in 2004. Thanks for the write up and those that posted clarifications.

I still have the AISIN TKT-021 for sale if you are interested. I ended up with an extra kit from Amazon.
 
I did notice the first post shows only 2gal of coolant but various online sources say it hold 13 quarts. Should I expect to only need 2 gallons to refill what will be drained during the procedure or do I need to have 4 gallons on hand?

I can't remember how much I used because I added a block heater around the same time as I did the timing belt. I also ended up having to replace the radiator. I definitely didn't use 4 gallons.

If you're a quart short you could reuse some of the old coolant. I filtered some through a coffee filter since it got leaves and dirt in it as I was draining it.

I found I need to top it up a few times over the next week after I drain it as the last of the air works its way out.
 
What are guys using to re-torque the crank pulley bolt to 181ftlb? I just noticed my 1/2" wrench only goes to 150. Does Autozone rent a 3/4"?
 

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