EEEliminator
Member
Just watched some youtube videos and I'm looking forward to playing with this stuff. They dip whole cars...
4Runner Logo - Rear - Holding it on?
- Thread starter EEEliminator
- Start date
jwkilgore
New member
The trick is that there is a gap between the letters and the body. As long as you don't apply it so thick you fill in this gap either section will peel away and leave the other behind.
PD bonds to the substrate with plenty of strength to withstand normal wear (so it won't just come off by itself), but its internal bond with itself is much much stronger. This is why if you applied it correctly (and thick enough), once you start peeling it separates from the substrate before it tears.
PD bonds to the substrate with plenty of strength to withstand normal wear (so it won't just come off by itself), but its internal bond with itself is much much stronger. This is why if you applied it correctly (and thick enough), once you start peeling it separates from the substrate before it tears.
EEEliminator
Member
This stuff is pretty cool, I was pretty skeptical even after watching some of the videos. I masked off an area about 1" - 2" beyond the logo just to avoid light over spray. I did get a little light over spray that went under the tape where it lifted a little, I'll have to figure out how to remove that later.
It was cold (cold for California) and I noticed that this stuff does not like to spray out when its cold. Heating the can by letting it sit in some warm water made all of the difference. When it was cold it just did not want to flow on to the surface. I preheated the logo area with a heat gun from distance just to get it so that it was warm to the touch. I think the garage was only about 55 degrees while I was working in there and later in the night it got down to the low 30s outside.
On the first coat I got it on a little too heavy trying to get it between all of the letters going at it at different angles. I actually thought I was going to have to start over, I thought I had run, a sag, and some drips. The only reason I kept going was that I thought I needed to thicken it up if I wanted to be able to peel it and start over. Amazingly the run drip and sag seemed to shrink up and go away??? I'm still not sure... either way I'm happy with it. Due to the weather I decided to wait until tonight before attempting to pull the letters and logo. I only did 3 coats, I'm thinking I should have put on 1 more. The nice thing is it I think it can be redone relatively easily. I'm liking the blacked out chrome so far, but not sure about the flat finish. I might end up pulling it and painting it to match the rest of the door.
It was cold (cold for California) and I noticed that this stuff does not like to spray out when its cold. Heating the can by letting it sit in some warm water made all of the difference. When it was cold it just did not want to flow on to the surface. I preheated the logo area with a heat gun from distance just to get it so that it was warm to the touch. I think the garage was only about 55 degrees while I was working in there and later in the night it got down to the low 30s outside.
On the first coat I got it on a little too heavy trying to get it between all of the letters going at it at different angles. I actually thought I was going to have to start over, I thought I had run, a sag, and some drips. The only reason I kept going was that I thought I needed to thicken it up if I wanted to be able to peel it and start over. Amazingly the run drip and sag seemed to shrink up and go away??? I'm still not sure... either way I'm happy with it. Due to the weather I decided to wait until tonight before attempting to pull the letters and logo. I only did 3 coats, I'm thinking I should have put on 1 more. The nice thing is it I think it can be redone relatively easily. I'm liking the blacked out chrome so far, but not sure about the flat finish. I might end up pulling it and painting it to match the rest of the door.
CF_Machete
Senior Member
Use goo gone, rubbing alcohol or just rubb off the overspray. Had to te do my hatch badges yesterday... ripped off a letter w/ my garage door.
EEEliminator
Member
Thanks!! I'll give it a shot, I've got some at home. Maybe I'll try the garage door letter removal technique to since I want to remove the plati dip from the letters :jk:
CF_Machete
Senior Member
Forgot to mention, you can buy gloss coat palstidip or the rustolium version. From the videos I've seen, you only need 1 final coat.
If you were to go that route, I'd remove all you plastidip and start over.
EEEliminator
Member
I saw they have "Plasti Dip Enhancer Glossifier" it looks like you put on top of any color, its basically clear I think... I'm not sure how close the black would match the Toyota black though... I guess there is only one way to find out! Maybe I'll pick up a can on my way home, reviews seem mixed on it though. I peeled some of the letters already and I'm not sure if this stuff is peel-able on its own, I think its made to go over cured plati dip. But it looks like it may still peel off the letters if its the only thing on there.
EEEliminator
Member
I was reading in some other threads that people peeled after 10 minutes and 10 minutes between coats. Is this right? Maybe in 100 degree summer weather?
I did 1/2 hour between coats then peeled it the next day.
I did 1/2 hour between coats then peeled it the next day.
