4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[theoutbackdream]

Currently running Bilstein 5100's with OME 886's in the front and Moog FJC 81081 + Daystar Rear 1.5" rear spacer.

I want to combat 2 problems:
1. Driver side lean, with the rear end. I think if I add a top out spacer on the front, I'll bind.
2. Stiffer rear + less sag when weight is added
3. A bit more height as I'm leveled with nothing, but quite leaned back with just a bit of camping gear.

Anyone have suggestions on a rear spring that will combat these 3 issues?

I was thinking about the OME 895's, but they might be at or a bit lower than what I have currently.

 

[vonRunner]

Just picked up a set of Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers. I'm considering removing the front sway bar when I put them on... Anyone who has pulled theirs have any feedback?
I've removed sway bars from my trucks in the past, but those all had longer more stable feeling wheelbases.

 

[ads2539]

Just picked up a set of Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers. I'm considering removing the front sway bar when I put them on... Anyone who has pulled theirs have any feedback?
I've removed sway bars from my trucks in the past, but those all had longer more stable feeling wheelbases.

I haven’t done it, but you can search here on the forum for opinions. I’ve read many that say it isn’t an issue.

 

[Blute]

Just picked up some Mevotech UCAs and they seem to be rebranded SPC UCAs! Saved some money and my 04 SR5 will get a lift soon!! $411.58 on RockAuto vs $695ish for SPC!

Yo that's a good find. Do you have the Mevotech/RockAuto part number on that? Couldn't seem to find it when searching on RockAuto for my 2006 Runner.

EDIT:
Looks like the Mevotech part numbers are CMS861199 (left) and CMS861198 (right). The pictures on RockAuto and the Mevotech website show the old style UCAs, however.

 

[RandomGyro]

Analysis Paralysis in Full Effect

Hello everyone. I’ve been chipping away at this thread for days now, trying to make sense of this totally foreign (to me) subject. I figured I’m confused enough to work up a post now. Before I go on; big “Thank you” to all of those who have contributed over the years. Seriously, there’s some very valuable information here in this thread.

So, I drive a 2006 Sport V6 2WD with 242,000+ miles and XREAS. It is my daily driver, usually just round trip to work and around town here and there. I also do LIGHT “Dirt Roading” here and there when going varmint hunting or recreational shooting in general. 90/10 mix of Texas asphalt and dirt. (Texas roads could be considered “Off Roading” in some areas though… yeeesh!) Suspension is old, wearing out, and needs totally replaced.

I’m not wealthy, but I’m not too worried about price. I am concerned with quality, and performance more so. Staying under $2k would be cool. Before reading this thread I was sold on mixing and matching components, and then I started thinking and reading that MFG’s probably complimentary spec their components with purpose. Maybe buying a one brand “Kit” is the way for me?

I’ve looked at Bilstein, OME, ToyTec, and Radflo, and am thoroughly confused as to what exactly I need to accomplish my goal, let alone which kit would be better. I’ve considered 5100 with OME springs; but start worrying about mixing components from companies who do not valve their shocks similarly. I’ve considered 6112/5160 with a B12 spring in the rear as well. And now I’m looking at the OME Nitrocharger shock kit at ToyTec. Help?

I’m looking to fit somewhat larger tires on my RWD-only vehicle because it looks cool. It also makes the vehicle slightly more capable, but looking neat is big for me. (j/k). I see a lot of people like 285/70R17, but rubbing is a concern. For that reason I’ve considered the extremely limited world of 275/70R17 tires, but am not even opposed to sticking with 265’s, I just want a little more height. 33” is sweet, but I am only RWD, so I’ll settle with 32” or begrudgingly with 31” if I need to.

I am fine with rake, close to level is better, but raked is cool too. I’m not after a “plush” ride, but I would like to retain road manners as well in terms on softness/firmness of suspension. Regardless, I will be doing UCA’s, to “future proof” this work, and to help with probable alignment issues. (OME or Bilstein, maybe?)

I’m also on OEM Toyota wheels, and would like to keep them. The wheels on my Sport are 30mm offset if what I’ve read is correct. (Six spoke). I’m not opposed to some fancy bronze Toyota wheels later on, but not now. So for now, I think I need spacers? Can someone confirm this for me?

Apologies for the novel, but thanks for hanging in there with me.

In summation:

1. Can you recommend a lift solution from a single supplier?
2. If not a single supplier, can you recommend a combo that will work for my needs?
3. Do I need to run wheel spacers with my OEM wheels, and are 285’s even an option for me?

 

[Bluesky 07]

[MENTION=452934]RandomGyro[/MENTION], check out the “X-REAS delete…” post linked in my thread. I think what I’m running now (3rd Gen Tacoma swap w/ FJ rear springs) or what I’m looking at for next time after researching kits (Eibach Stage 1 Pro Truck kit) would work very well for you. Let us know what you eventually decide to go with and how it works out.

About spacers, they significantly improve the 4th Gen’s look imo. See post on Spidertrax linked in my sig.

And if looks are on your mind, I highly recommend the mudflap delete.

 

[RandomGyro]

[MENTION=452934]RandomGyro[/MENTION], check out the “X-REAS delete…” post linked in my thread. I think what I’m running now (3rd Gen Tacoma swap w/ FJ rear springs) or what I’m looking at for next time after researching kits (Eibach Stage 1 Pro Truck kit) would work very well for you. Let us know what you eventually decide to go with and how it works out.

About spacers, they significantly improve the 4th Gen’s look imo. See post on Spidertrax linked in my sig.

And if looks are on your mind, I highly recommend the mudflap delete.

[MENTION=114846]Bluesky 07[/MENTION], Thank you for your response. I’ve actually read (I think) every link in your signature, some twice, haha! You have been a wealth of information and inspiration for me. Your post on XREAS delete inspired me to attempt this all myself, as it’s MUCH less involved that I ever would have thought.

Oddly enough; on lunch break today at work I began researching the Eibach kit, and it looks VERY promising as a “one stop” solution to my situation. The price is more than acceptable, and the name Eibach carries a certain quality that I am actually familiar with. (As opposed to OME, Fox, Bilstein, which are totally foreign/new to me.)

Thanks for the suggestion on spacers as well, and I agree that they do add a sense of aggressiveness for minimal dollars. (Pretty even trade off IMO.) I was more or less wondering if I would *NEED* them with 30mm offset wheels, but I think my mind was bending information, as 30mm should be better for clearance than 25mm.

I’m still VERY undecided on tires, and tire size. I think I may rule out 285’s entirely as I stand to gain nothing in 2WD. 275’s are so limited in availability, the Falken is probably the stand-out winner, but very heavy at 57lbs/tire. I was also looking at 265/70 today before lunch, and options are plentiful in that size. So that may be where I end up.

Regardless; I will post a pic/first impression and quickie review with gratitude once decided and installed, which may need to be sooner than later as I may have suffered a puncture today in my commute. (Will be doing brakes, tires, and suspension, all in one go.)

 

[theoutbackdream]

Just picked up a set of Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers. I'm considering removing the front sway bar when I put them on... Anyone who has pulled theirs have any feedback?
I've removed sway bars from my trucks in the past, but those all had longer more stable feeling wheelbases.

Not sure what the spring rates are on the Fox's but I removed mine with OME 896s in the front and it definitely leans a lot more.

I wrote up my opinions after I removed mine:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2989784-post135.html

 

[vonRunner]

Not sure what the spring rates are on the Fox's but I removed mine with OME 896s in the front and it definitely leans a lot more.

I wrote up my opinions after I removed mine:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2989784-post135.html

Thank you, that's exactly the type of feedback I was looking for.

 

[Luco13]

Currently running maxtrac spindles and bistein shocks. Also ICON coils in the rear. I was running Tacoma OEM wheels with spacers on 285 BFGs and rubbed a lot. Did the body mount chop and still rubbed. Just switched to method NV's and removed the spacers and it rides completely different with no rubbing, much better.

I also just ordered fox long travel shocks with bypass back in December. Hoping to get the Dirtking kit installed once the shocks are in (13weeks).

 

[crushlee]

Sorry for confusion, looking for some 4Runner expertise as I don’t know what my immediate next step is to fix my current situation.

Current situation:
• ’07 Sport V8 RWD w/200k miles
• XREAS deleted, replaced w/Bilstein 4600’s
• Original OEM coils are sagging pretty bad – Center hub to fender measurements Fronts: 18/18.5”, Rears: 21.5/21.75”

Goals (FYI – truck is used more of a daily driver than for sport):
• Restore or improve ride as I sometimes bottom out over speed humps/bumps
• Perform mild lift
• Level front end thru lift
• Already purchased TRD Pro wheels and intend to increase tire size

Questions need assistance with:
1. Am I asking for trouble attempting to perform any range of lift on Bilstein 4600 struts? I’ve seen posts stating both yes and no. Trying to gauge how much I'm going to have to invest since the 4600's are relatively new.
2. Ultimately I need to know, in order to perform a lift, can I simply replace all coils with either OEM/Aftermarket or do I need to also replace the struts to ones that have more travel?
3. If I go with a 2.5/1.5 lift, should I expect a result which still has a slightly forward rake?

Thanks all in advance for the knowledge!

 

[AuSeeker]

Looking for some 4Runner expertise as I’m more adept to the import tuner world and have no experience in lifting trucks. I have a ’07 Sport V8 w/XREAS deleted and Bilstein 4600 replacements that my shop put on about 20k miles ago when I no longer wanted to keep replacing the XREAS and never had intent of lifting till now. My coils are original w/200k miles now so they are sagging pretty bad – Center hub to fender measurements Fronts: 18/18.5”, Rears: 21.5/21.75”. Truck is used as a daily so my goals are to 1) Get factory ride back as I bottom out on speed humps/bumps, 2) Perform mild lift and 3) Level. I just got a set of the TRD Pro’s so will also be increasing tire size an inch or two. I’ve been poking around and doing some research and intend to address the coil sag one way or another since they're bottoming out – has anyone else experienced this on old coils or this to be expected every now and then due to V8? My initial plan was doing a full OEM coil replacement, Daystar 2.5/1.5, as well as a ¼” spacers to eliminate the driver lean but I’ve found threads stating both sides of 4600's - not meant to be used with lift equipment (per Bilstein website) but some threads stating they use TRD or FJ coils with their 4600’s which would add an inch or more lift so I’m not sure what the true answer is or if it even applies to the mild 1.5” lift in rear provided by the Daystar kit (fronts not affected due to top mount spacers not affecting travel, correct?). Let me know your thoughts and whether or not I truly need to start from scratch by also replacing struts. I suppose having to replace coils, I’m already about $400 into the project but I’ll already have to beg for forgiveness on the wheels. If I’m forced to move away from the 4600’s, any suggestions for a strut/coil package that won’t break the bank? Know 5100’s seems to be very popular choice those who have performed mild lifts/leveling and are daily drivers. One other question I had was regarding the end results between a 2.5/1.5” kit vs. just doing the 2” level in front. Since the difference of the 2.5/1.5 kit is only 1”, would there still be some rake vs. the 2” which would then provide a true level? I debated which way to go for so long and ended up on the former just in case I have a heavy load in the rear, didn’t want it to sag and I’m good with a little rake. Thanks guys in advance!

Sorry, it's too hard read your post, please break it up into paragraphs or at least separate the sentences so it's easier to read, you will get more replies and help!!

 

[sprovencio]

Just picked up a set of Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers. I'm considering removing the front sway bar when I put them on... Anyone who has pulled theirs have any feedback?
I've removed sway bars from my trucks in the past, but those all had longer more stable feeling wheelbases.

I wouldn't risk it. Noticed a ton of sway in the vehicle and SUV's are inherently heavier than a truck with an empty bed. Unless you've got a roll cage, then let her rip haha

 

[sprovencio]

Hello everyone. I’ve been chipping away at this thread for days now, trying to make sense of this totally foreign (to me) subject. I figured I’m confused enough to work up a post now. Before I go on; big “Thank you” to all of those who have contributed over the years. Seriously, there’s some very valuable information here in this thread.

So, I drive a 2006 Sport V6 2WD with 242,000+ miles and XREAS. It is my daily driver, usually just round trip to work and around town here and there. I also do LIGHT “Dirt Roading” here and there when going varmint hunting or recreational shooting in general. 90/10 mix of Texas asphalt and dirt. (Texas roads could be considered “Off Roading” in some areas though… yeeesh!) Suspension is old, wearing out, and needs totally replaced.

I’m not wealthy, but I’m not too worried about price. I am concerned with quality, and performance more so. Staying under $2k would be cool. Before reading this thread I was sold on mixing and matching components, and then I started thinking and reading that MFG’s probably complimentary spec their components with purpose. Maybe buying a one brand “Kit” is the way for me?

I’ve looked at Bilstein, OME, ToyTec, and Radflo, and am thoroughly confused as to what exactly I need to accomplish my goal, let alone which kit would be better. I’ve considered 5100 with OME springs; but start worrying about mixing components from companies who do not valve their shocks similarly. I’ve considered 6112/5160 with a B12 spring in the rear as well. And now I’m looking at the OME Nitrocharger shock kit at ToyTec. Help?

I’m looking to fit somewhat larger tires on my RWD-only vehicle because it looks cool. It also makes the vehicle slightly more capable, but looking neat is big for me. (j/k). I see a lot of people like 285/70R17, but rubbing is a concern. For that reason I’ve considered the extremely limited world of 275/70R17 tires, but am not even opposed to sticking with 265’s, I just want a little more height. 33” is sweet, but I am only RWD, so I’ll settle with 32” or begrudgingly with 31” if I need to.

I am fine with rake, close to level is better, but raked is cool too. I’m not after a “plush” ride, but I would like to retain road manners as well in terms on softness/firmness of suspension. Regardless, I will be doing UCA’s, to “future proof” this work, and to help with probable alignment issues. (OME or Bilstein, maybe?)

I’m also on OEM Toyota wheels, and would like to keep them. The wheels on my Sport are 30mm offset if what I’ve read is correct. (Six spoke). I’m not opposed to some fancy bronze Toyota wheels later on, but not now. So for now, I think I need spacers? Can someone confirm this for me?

Apologies for the novel, but thanks for hanging in there with me.

In summation:

1. Can you recommend a lift solution from a single supplier?
2. If not a single supplier, can you recommend a combo that will work for my needs?
3. Do I need to run wheel spacers with my OEM wheels, and are 285’s even an option for me?

Here's my personal experience: With 140k on the ODO, I threw on 5100's all around for about 60k mi. with stock springs. Last week with just under 200k on the ODO, just installed the OME Kit from ToyTec that you're referring to. (I just posted my specs and pics in the "Tire/Lift Central" thread, if you're familiar)

IMO: 5100's are a great budget solution to level (or lift w/ spacers) without worrying about too many factors. I had mine set at the 0.85" notch and the vehicle was perfectly level and perfectly aligned with stock UCA's. This kit felt amazing from the minute it was installed. Firm enough to maintain its own traveling at quick speeds, but plush enough to eliminate any recognition of minor roadway bumps. Off-road it absolutely ripped, alone or with passengers. I would highly recommend this setup to anyone who wants a leveling kit that requires minimal additional parts and a huge leg up when compared to stock suspension.

Last week I just installed the OME kit. This is a full 3" lift kit (got more actually) and required I replace the UCAs as well. It is among the "cheaper" lift kits, but still much more significant in price than a set of Bilstein's and stock coils. I opted to do it myself, but nonetheless, this kit is a whole different league than a spacer or leveling kit. This is where performance starts to really shine. While the first couple hundred miles were rough, the suspension has started to break in nicely. The vehicle looks like a total off-road beast and I can't wait to rip her along the mountain roads of Colorado. Until then, I cannot attest to the actual off-road performance of the OME kit compared to the Bilstein's. As for highway/around town, it's MUCH stiffer than stock or the Bilstein's, BUT not uncomfortable. Just a firmer drive feel (great for emergency maneuvers with quick ability to recover. Cant even feel my car tilt or drift on hard turns).

To answer your questions:

Yotomafia & Toytec would be my recommendations for buying the entire "kit" you're describing. You're absolutely right when you mention you shouldn't mix the Bilstein struts with OME or another brand coils. Do some people do it? Sure! But are they taking a chance on these lower end lift kits? Yeah absolutely.

I have spidertrax wheel spacers and the spacers are actually what caused the wheel to start rubbing, so do you need them? No. Does it give your vehicle a way more aggressive look and wider stance, yes. I cannot attest to 285's, I'm running 270's, but will consider the 275 or 285's next time I need to replace my tires. For now, I'm perfectly happy with the look. If you go with 285's you will most definitely need spacers and plan on doing some bumper trimming. The bigger lift you go with, the larger tire you can support. But each config will have a certain amount of bumper trimming and the need (or not) for spacers. I believe there's a "How Much Lift to Fit Which Tire" guide on the first page of this thread.

Which kit for you? Only you can answer that but my advice would be to steer clear of the higher end OME/ToyTec/Bilstein 6112's if only 10% of your vehicle time is spent off-road. You can achieve the look and feel with budget friendly kits without paying for the extra performance that's not going to be used.

Bilstein 5100's are quite customizable because of the adjust ride height, and the ability to use your current or new OEM springs, keeping costs low and the wallet happy. If you know you want a 2.5"+ kit, then I would recommend stepping up to the OME Nitrochargers as it includes everything, and is still cheaper than the 6112/5160 kit. ToyTec sells 1/2" top out spacers too so keep those in mind. Also, with the Bilstein 5100's you can always adjust (for more or less) height over time based on whether you like the current look, spring sag, additional vehicle weight, etc. But if you know you want that full 3" with 285's then just front the investment now on the OME's with the appropriate spring, and it saves you money in the long run.

Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[sprovencio]

Sorry for confusion, looking for some 4Runner expertise as I don’t know what my immediate next step is to fix my current situation.

Current situation:
• ’07 Sport V8 RWD w/200k miles
• XREAS deleted, replaced w/Bilstein 4600’s
• Original OEM coils are sagging pretty bad – Center hub to fender measurements Fronts: 18/18.5”, Rears: 21.5/21.75”

Goals (FYI – truck is used more of a daily driver than for sport):
• Restore or improve ride as I sometimes bottom out over speed humps/bumps
• Perform mild lift
• Level front end thru lift
• Already purchased TRD Pro wheels and intend to increase tire size

Questions need assistance with:
1. Am I asking for trouble attempting to perform any range of lift on Bilstein 4600 struts? I’ve seen posts stating both yes and no. Trying to gauge how much I'm going to have to invest since the 4600's are relatively new.
2. Ultimately I need to know, in order to perform a lift, can I simply replace all coils with either OEM/Aftermarket or do I need to also replace the struts to ones that have more travel?
3. If I go with a 2.5/1.5 lift, should I expect a result which still has a slightly forward rake?

Thanks all in advance for the knowledge!

Don't have too much experience with the 4600 series however with 200k miles on OEM springs, what if you just bought some spacers for the struts and refreshed the springs all around. I bet that alone would change the ride height but, again no experience behind this idea, not sure if you would get the full 2.5" for the leveled look. Not sure if this helps, but best of luck to you.

 

[sprovencio]

Hey 4th Gen Gurus,
I am looking to change my stock suspension to a suspension with a lift. 90% street driving and load carrying. What are my options that wont break the bank, reminder, this is also a 2003 with 215000 miles.

Any help will be appreciated.

Bilstein 5100's all around. Depending on how "sagged" your stock springs are you could go with new OEM springs too, but the ride height adjustable of the 5100's give you options for your application. Improved off-road for that 10%, improved control and comfort for the other 90% on-road.

 

[crushlee]

Don't have too much experience with the 4600 series however with 200k miles on OEM springs, what if you just bought some spacers for the struts and refreshed the springs all around. I bet that alone would change the ride height but, again no experience behind this idea, not sure if you would get the full 2.5" for the leveled look. Not sure if this helps, but best of luck to you.

Thanks for the input. That was the original route I was going to take because my goals are mainly cosmetic and keeping costs to a min then I started digging more and came across some posts about the limitations of 4600s - wish I had my mind made up when I had the XREAS delete performed.

I was going to simply replace springs with OEM and add spacers which would be no problem in front using top mounts, it's the rear where I believe would have travel concerns. I'm now headed towards a lift kit since purchasing new springs, bumps, top hats is quickly adding up and wouldn't mind increased spring rates. Still looking around but really considering something in the range of the Eibach Pro Lift kit which wouldn't be much more than replacing OEM components then would sell the 4600s.

 

[sprovencio]

Thanks for the input. That was the original route I was going to take because my goals are mainly cosmetic and keeping costs to a min then I started digging more and came across some posts about the limitations of 4600s - wish I had my mind made up when I had the XREAS delete performed.

I was going to simply replace springs with OEM and add spacers which would be no problem in front using top mounts, it's the rear where I believe would have travel concerns. I'm now headed towards a lift kit since purchasing new springs, bumps, top hats is quickly adding up and wouldn't mind increased spring rates. Still looking around but really considering something in the range of the Eibach Pro Lift kit which wouldn't be much more than replacing OEM components then would sell the 4600s.

Yeah, often times it just makes financial sense to buy up and get the performance/lift all together since out the door costs are so close. Look back one page (273) for my reply (post 4094) to another user where I shared my personal experience with the Bilstein 5100's vs my new OME Nitrocharges and how the leveling vs lift world changes the parts and investment. I also posted before and after pics and specs on the "Lift Central" thread so you can see what a somewhat budget friendly kit like the OME looks like compared to those higher end ICON & FOX kits if you're not going to use the performance of those $3-$4k lift kits. Keep in mind, if you go 3" or higher, you'll need new UCAs, a diff drop if 4WD, and potentially extended brake lines in the rear. Hope that helps, message me with any questions!

 

[RandomGyro]

Here's my personal experience: With 140k on the ODO, I threw on 5100's all around for about 60k mi. with stock springs. Last week with just under 200k on the ODO, just installed the OME Kit from ToyTec that you're referring to. (I just posted my specs and pics in the "Tire/Lift Central" thread, if you're familiar)

IMO: 5100's are a great budget solution to level (or lift w/ spacers) without worrying about too many factors. I had mine set at the 0.85" notch and the vehicle was perfectly level and perfectly aligned with stock UCA's. This kit felt amazing from the minute it was installed. Firm enough to maintain its own traveling at quick speeds, but plush enough to eliminate any recognition of minor roadway bumps. Off-road it absolutely ripped, alone or with passengers. I would highly recommend this setup to anyone who wants a leveling kit that requires minimal additional parts and a huge leg up when compared to stock suspension.

Last week I just installed the OME kit. This is a full 3" lift kit (got more actually) and required I replace the UCAs as well. It is among the "cheaper" lift kits, but still much more significant in price than a set of Bilstein's and stock coils. I opted to do it myself, but nonetheless, this kit is a whole different league than a spacer or leveling kit. This is where performance starts to really shine. While the first couple hundred miles were rough, the suspension has started to break in nicely. The vehicle looks like a total off-road beast and I can't wait to rip her along the mountain roads of Colorado. Until then, I cannot attest to the actual off-road performance of the OME kit compared to the Bilstein's. As for highway/around town, it's MUCH stiffer than stock or the Bilstein's, BUT not uncomfortable. Just a firmer drive feel (great for emergency maneuvers with quick ability to recover. Cant even feel my car tilt or drift on hard turns).

To answer your questions:

Yotomafia & Toytec would be my recommendations for buying the entire "kit" you're describing. You're absolutely right when you mention you shouldn't mix the Bilstein struts with OME or another brand coils. Do some people do it? Sure! But are they taking a chance on these lower end lift kits? Yeah absolutely.

I have spidertrax wheel spacers and the spacers are actually what caused the wheel to start rubbing, so do you need them? No. Does it give your vehicle a way more aggressive look and wider stance, yes. I cannot attest to 285's, I'm running 270's, but will consider the 275 or 285's next time I need to replace my tires. For now, I'm perfectly happy with the look. If you go with 285's you will most definitely need spacers and plan on doing some bumper trimming. The bigger lift you go with, the larger tire you can support. But each config will have a certain amount of bumper trimming and the need (or not) for spacers. I believe there's a "How Much Lift to Fit Which Tire" guide on the first page of this thread.

Which kit for you? Only you can answer that but my advice would be to steer clear of the higher end OME/ToyTec/Bilstein 6112's if only 10% of your vehicle time is spent off-road. You can achieve the look and feel with budget friendly kits without paying for the extra performance that's not going to be used.

Bilstein 5100's are quite customizable because of the adjust ride height, and the ability to use your current or new OEM springs, keeping costs low and the wallet happy. If you know you want a 2.5"+ kit, then I would recommend stepping up to the OME Nitrochargers as it includes everything, and is still cheaper than the 6112/5160 kit. ToyTec sells 1/2" top out spacers too so keep those in mind. Also, with the Bilstein 5100's you can always adjust (for more or less) height over time based on whether you like the current look, spring sag, additional vehicle weight, etc. But if you know you want that full 3" with 285's then just front the investment now on the OME's with the appropriate spring, and it saves you money in the long run.

Let me know if you have any questions!

[mention=636649]Sprovencio[/mention]

Dude, thank you for that response! Solid information and guidance that totally aligns with a lot of other solid advice I’ve been given over the last couple of weeks. Totally appreciated! Yesterday I pulled the proverbial trigger, and went slightly against the grain of some people’s recommendations, and took heed of others’…

I have also been getting solid help from ShockSurplus (Hopefully it’s cool to mention them here, and not like-against any rules or something.) and I decided to go with the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift Kit. It is VERY similar to a Bilstein 5100 shock, in that the fronts utilize circlips for height adjustment as well. The kit did not come with the front coilovers preassembled, but ShockSurplus offered their services for that in exchange for a little extra dough. (They did ask me what height I was trying to achieve, so they will hopefully be on the position I need to hit 3” in the front.) So it will be a “plug and play” kit for me, which rocks, because I want to tackle this at home.

Now, I DID contact Eibach directly as well. And I was VERY curious about their “2.0” kit for Fourth Gen.’s, as they’re only currently available for Fifth Gen. T4R. I was told that they were hoping to launch Fourth Gen. Pro-Truck Lift 2.0 kits by the end of April. Save for delays, supply chain issues, raw goods or shipping shortages, and I could see those being available by Summer. So, great news for us ‘03 to ‘09’ers.

However; I weighed the pro’s and con’s, and this is going to be a “set-it-and-forget-it” endeavor, so paying extra for that adjustability just didn’t seem as valuable to me. Also, most importantly; the Pro-Truck Lift kit was in stock at Shock Surplus. My “Inter-Slicks” that I call tires aren’t picking up any more rubber, so sooner is better in order to get my new Firestones installed.

I also decided to grab some JBA Upper Control Arms as well. I may not totally need them; but this is my form of “future-proofing” this project in the event things change going forward. (Larger lift, tires, 4wd conversion, w/e! …Okay, probably no 4wd conversion anytime soon, haha.). I went with JBA because they seem to be respected and modestly priced when compared Icon, Camberg, etc.

I did leave out wheel spacers for now. I will buy them IF I need them. However; if I can get by with them I may add them in the future as that wider stance does look pretty slick. I was pretty certain I would need something to counter the infamous “Yota-Lean” but ShockSurplus said they can handle that no problem, so I’m excited to see if that’s just circlip-related, or if they’re hooking me up with a shim/spacer.

All-in-all I’m pretty stoked to have everything on order, and hoping the install goes smoothly for me. If so; I’ll be on to fixing a few other things on my ride like O2/cat issues and a stuck liftgate.

Thanks again to everyone for the help, here and abroad.

Will post before/after pics as soon as possible.

 

[Bluesky 07]

General observation about original springs: replace them when you do your shocks. People often think the shocks make the ride, but as Motor Trend explains:

==
The springs are the foundation of a suspension system. They are what allow the up and down movement of the wheels with minimal impact on the chassis and the rest of the vehicle. The primary job of springs, though, is to hold up the weight the vehicle and its cargo.
==

The "youngest" 4th Gen (2009) is now 13 years old and an average one is likely at 150K or more. That means the average 4th Gen's original springs have been carrying a 4,500 lb. SUV for well over a decade and the equivalent of 6+ times around the world. When I did my suspension, I knew I'd always wonder how different/better the ride would have been if I didn't do the springs. They're not that costly either so IMO, running new shocks with original springs doesn't make sense.