5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide



I've only had the lift on for less than a week but so far I'm thrilled with it. UCA's are great, I got 3.5 degrees of caster dialed in no problem and they don't make a sound. Like I said I got 2" all around and at worst I'll have a level truck or still a little rake when I load it up with camping gear/dog.

Looks great! Thanks. Very tempted to go this route.
 
It says in the description "works with stock shocks"?

Well howdy it sure does! I didn't look at that particular link. And I did preface my statement with "I may be wrong". :wink2:

One of the points I was trying to make is aftermarket shocks are designed to work with longer springs, while the factory shocks are designed to use with factory springs. Specifically for less down travel. 2" longer springs (or 3 for that matter) are going to have the shocks pretty much pushed down to their limit already. Forget having any extra droop capability.
 
Well howdy it sure does! I didn't look at that particular link. And I did preface my statement with "I may be wrong". :wink2:

One of the points I was trying to make is aftermarket shocks are designed to work with longer springs, while the factory shocks are designed to use with factory springs. Specifically for less down travel. 2" longer springs (or 3 for that matter) are going to have the shocks pretty much pushed down to their limit already. Forget having any extra droop capability.

I'll buy that, makes sense.

I liked this one because it meant I wouldn't need to drop $1k on a lift at once. (Plus tires ) my plan would be to upgrade the shocks later. I probably wouldn't really ever do any crawling or anything.
 
Anyone have experience with supreme suspension leveling kits. They sell a 2", 2.5", and 3"

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Daystar lift kit

Hi guys! Noob incoming! Got myself a grey 4runner te w/Kdss.
I checked a lot for the daystar lift kit. I got the kt9124bk lift kit reference in this forum.
But then i checked again and it turns out that kit number is for a fjcruiser. 5th gen 4runner kit is kt09134bk
Now, i contacted daystar to check if there is any technical difference between the two kits. They will probably say that its no good and that i need to get the other kit instead.
I suggest to update the kit number for 5thgen to kt09134bk so there will no misunderstanding again.
Ill keep you updated on the news from daystar.
 
So after checking with Daystar, they replied that the lift kit i ordered will fit on my 4runner. So I will put these on tomorrow night if i receive my new tires
 
Ok, so I've read this thread front to back and back to front along with a couple other threads on lift/level kits. I've not heard anyone mention the one I've already ordered through a local dealer: Pro-Comp's 2.25" Leveling Kit

I'm going for just leveling the front end so that it doesn't dive so much, and look so nose low when driving with the empty cargo area for a daily commuter. I've already got a set of AirLift bags in the rear, which I'd rather not mess with again. I figure the air lift will keep me from rear end sag while loaded and towing the few times a year I'm heavy enough for that.

From what I gather with a stock suspension this will actually leave me front high (reverse rake) for both frame and body.
From what I also understand, I can expect that to drop back about 1/4" once the Southern Style Slimline bumper gets installed (although mine will be without winch for a while). That would still leave me with a reverse rake right?

Should I contact the shop, have them cancel the ProComp Kit and pick up a couple of Bilstein 5100 adjustable fronts to put in? I'm thinking at 1.75". Should I worry about trying to find a taller spring so I don't have to go back for it later? Can those with experience please provide input & opinion?

I'm not looking to spend a ton of dough, and may be stuck re-selling the Pro-Comp kit at a loss if I elect not to use it, since it was special order.

EDIT:
Just measured height from ground to top of well arch (truck is nose down, not on level ground): Front 34-34.5" Rear 37-37.5"
I'll re-measure tomorrow on more level ground to see how much it changes. I assume airing down the rear bags (currently ~15psi) might drop the rear a little, even though there's no weight in the back end?
 
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Ok, so I've read this thread front to back and back to front along with a couple other threads on lift/level kits. I've not heard anyone mention the one I've already ordered through a local dealer: Pro-Comp's 2.25" Leveling Kit

I'm going for just leveling the front end so that it doesn't dive so much, and look so nose low when driving with the empty cargo area for a daily commuter. I've already got a set of AirLift bags in the rear, which I'd rather not mess with again. I figure the air lift will keep me from rear end sag while loaded and towing the few times a year I'm heavy enough for that.

If you don't change springs or shocks you will still have nose dive. It will just start from 2.25" higher in the air.

From what I gather with a stock suspension this will actually leave me front high (reverse rake) for both frame and body.
From what I also understand, I can expect that to drop back about 1/4" once the Southern Style Slimline bumper gets installed (although mine will be without winch for a while). That would still leave me with a reverse rake right?

I lost 3/4" on factory springs after the SSO bumper AND winch installation. So 1/4 or so may be right, but probably wouldn't be noticeable if you weren't looking for it. I rode around on mine that way for several hundred miles. It rode softer but not in any dangerous sense. I got the OME 885's to gain back what I had lost to the weight.

I contact the shop, have them cancel the ProComp Kit and pick up a couple of Bilstein 5100 adjustable fronts to put in? I'm thinking at 1.75". Should I worry about trying to find a taller spring so I don't have to go back for it later? Can those with experience please provide input & opinion?

Your call, but I don't think a spacer kit is going to address what you are worried about. I reset my 5100's to 0 and installed OME 885 2" springs after adding my SSO bumper.

I'm not looking to spend a ton of dough, and may be stuck re-selling the Pro-Comp kit at a loss if I elect not to use it, since it was special order.

EDIT:
Just measured height from ground to top of well arch (truck is nose down, not on level ground): Front 34-34.5" Rear 37-37.5"
I'll re-measure tomorrow on more level ground to see how much it changes. I assume airing down the rear bags (currently ~15psi) might drop the rear a little, even though there's no weight in the back end?

Those measurements match factory heights off a Limited 4R I checked a couple years ago. I don't know enough about airbags to say one way or another whether they affect ride height. I know they increase spring rate for extra weight, but have no clue on raising or lowering the height. I can say with authority that you NEED to figure out what you WANT to do. I have started with the 5100's and factory springs, then added front springs, then added rear springs as I added more weight. Mine has been an evolution that I sometimes wish I had thought out before I dropped the first dollar on parts.

But I don't think a spacer kit with unneeded diff drop parts is what you are looking for.
 
If you don't change springs or shocks you will still have nose dive. It will just start from 2.25" higher in the air.

Your call, but I don't think a spacer kit is going to address what you are worried about. I reset my 5100's to 0 and installed OME 885 2" springs after adding my SSO bumper.

Those measurements match factory heights off a Limited 4R I checked a couple years ago. I don't know enough about airbags to say one way or another whether they affect ride height. I know they increase spring rate for extra weight, but have no clue on raising or lowering the height. I can say with authority that you NEED to figure out what you WANT to do. I have started with the 5100's and factory springs, then added front springs, then added rear springs as I added more weight. Mine has been an evolution that I sometimes wish I had thought out before I dropped the first dollar on parts.

But I don't think a spacer kit with unneeded diff drop parts is what you are looking for.

Thanks for that reply, it really sounds about like what I needed to hear. What I really want is to do it right the first time and not have to worry about going back to change things again. That's why I was so apprehensive about just the spacer kit. Doing it right sounds like 5100's with OME 2" springs with a higher spring rate to take the added weight (885's you say?). I don't know enough about springs, but will be learning this afternoon. It also sounds like I don't have to change the rear until I feel I want a stiffer spring back there, which is mostly alleviated with the air bags.
 
Thanks for that reply, it really sounds about like what I needed to hear. What I really want is to do it right the first time and not have to worry about going back to change things again. That's why I was so apprehensive about just the spacer kit. Doing it right sounds like 5100's with OME 2" springs with a higher spring rate to take the added weight (885's you say?). I don't know enough about springs, but will be learning this afternoon. It also sounds like I don't have to change the rear until I feel I want a stiffer spring back there, which is mostly alleviated with the air bags.

5100's may not be the right answer for you. They were the best bang for the buck for me at the time. I'd be crazy if I said I didn't want the Icon Stage Infinity kit with micro adjustable dampening, 18" of travel, and the 3rd reservoir wine dispenser. But it was out of my price range and I don't drink scalding coffee out of an open top mug while running the Baja 1000 at 500 mph.

That said the 5100's do help with the nose dive while not completely erasing it. I have heard and sometimes feel the OME shock and spring kit MIGHT have been a better choice for me, but it was a little too pricy for what I could afford at the time. And I had reservations because I have heard it stiffens the ride somewhat. I've done the log truck ride with an older 4x4 and I wanted to keep the somewhat soft feeling factory ride in my DD. As far as rear springs go, you are pretty much stuck with adding some sort of lift with any aftermarket springs unless you get a custom pair made. So small spacers in the back or the air bags may be the best choice for your needs.

I knew going in that the SSO front bumper weighed around 65 pounds, and the winch I was buying was about the same. The aluminum factory bumper being removed weighs around 20 or 25 pounds (it didn't even feel that heavy but I didn't weigh it). So I needed a spring that would handle an extra 110 pounds or so up front. The 885 fit the bill like it was designed for my specific application.

This is a link with specs for the OME springs. There are other choices at this website also. Click around and do some reading. If I recall correctly the factory front springs have about a 590 pound spring rate, so that will give you a starting point.

https://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Front-OME-Lift-Coils_p_211.html

Look at the linked Build Threads in the stickies. Find one that looks like what you want and ask that owner some questions, either in his build thread or by PM. Pick their brains about what they load, how they ride, what kind of wheeling they might do. Everybody in here has been more than willing to help when asked a direct question concerning their build. I've had several members approach me by PM because they were afraid of being scorned for asking silly questions. I've tried to help them along without telling them that my setup is THE SETUP they need.
 
I've had several members approach me by PM because they were afraid of being scorned for asking silly questions. I've tried to help them along without telling them that my setup is THE SETUP they need.

The only silly question is the one you think you know the answer to, but have doubts and still don't ask to verify. If you don't ask, you're just guessing that you came to the right conclusion. There's an awful lot of gray area when it comes to suspensions, all of which is new and unfamiliar to me. Thank you to everyone who's taken time to do write ups in their build threads and suspension threads. In the past 2 weeks I've gone from not knowing exactly what a spacer was or where to put one, to being able to ask some semi-intelligent questions about suspensions and lift.
Of course, more reading and research generates more questions and ideas. Some of which I managed to dispense with after more research, others I would like to hear thoughts and concerns from more knowledgeable/experienced people.


5100's may not be the right answer for you. And I had reservations because I have heard it stiffens the ride somewhat. I've done the log truck ride with an older 4x4 and I wanted to keep the somewhat soft feeling factory ride in my DD.

After more research I've come to believe there a general consensus indicating the OME 90000's have a softer ride than the Bilstein 5100's, only when the 5100's are set at 1.75 or 2.5". Of course they are both an improvement over stock. As I'm planning on getting a set of OME front springs, I'm not planning on using either of those settings if I go with the 5100's. Also why pay for an adjustable strut if I don't need that function? Reading multiple Taco/FJ/4Runner forums, many have gone from Bilstein 5100's to OME 90000's, but nobody's really mentioned or bragged about going the other way.
I would like to avoid making the suspension harder as a daily driver. Nor do I, "drink scalding coffee out of an open top mug while running the Baja 1000 at 500 mph." I already regret the E load tires, which I've learned to tolerate though not become a fan of. I've even gone as far as considering selling them off and ordering a set of C load or P-metric instead.


As far as rear springs go, you are pretty much stuck with adding some sort of lift with any aftermarket springs unless you get a custom pair made. So small spacers in the back or the air bags may be the best choice for your needs.

I still need to look more into this, I've not been looking much at the rear setup at all. Also replacing the rear springs means fiddling with the Air Lift kit. Apparently the air lift kit prevents the springs from compressing as quickly/easily at the normal rate, hence are the equivalent of using springs with a higher spring rate. At $80 it was much cheaper and easier to install.
I am hoping to get away without having to do anything to the rear at this time, it makes the budget smaller!


I knew going in that the SSO front bumper weighed around 65 pounds, and the winch I was buying was about the same. The aluminum factory bumper being removed weighs around 20 or 25 pounds (it didn't even feel that heavy but I didn't weigh it). So I needed a spring that would handle an extra 110 pounds or so up front. The 885 fit the bill like it was designed for my specific application.

In searching I've heard conflicting reports of whether the 884/885 2" spring provides 2" or 3" of lift in our vehicles. Assuming you had the SSO bumper and winch combo installed on both setups, how much did your front height actually change from your factory spring/[email protected]" to the OME885/5100@0"?

I understand the +110lb part of the 885, however, OME's site describes this as a full passenger load +110lbs. Which leaves me thinking that it's not correct for my application and I should be using the 884 springs. I'd rather not have a harsh ride 95+% of the time to account for the once in a blue moon instances where I actually get close to max GVWR +110lbs of bumper/winch. That said I'm still considering it because of the front bias. Drivetrain weight is almost exclusively front, anytime 2+ people are in the vehicle both front seats are filled first, the bumper and winch will all be carried by the front wheels.
Additionally I discovered that the 885 spring isn't actually a different spring rate, it's just slightly taller than the 884. Hence, as designed GVWR +110lbs it will sit just as tall as the 884, although already be compressed more. Being a taller spring to start with, and without the full weight of GVWR +110lbs, I assume the 885 would actually provide more realized lift than the 884. Is this a pretty safe assumption? Being that I'm not actually looking for lift as much as I am level, again I'm leaning towards the 884. What are your thoughts on this?
 
In searching I've heard conflicting reports of whether the 884/885 2" spring provides 2" or 3" of lift in our vehicles. Assuming you had the SSO bumper and winch combo installed on both setups, how much did your front height actually change from your factory spring/[email protected]" to the OME885/5100@0"?

I understand the +110lb part of the 885, however, OME's site describes this as a full passenger load +110lbs. Which leaves me thinking that it's not correct for my application and I should be using the 884 springs. I'd rather not have a harsh ride 95+% of the time to account for the once in a blue moon instances where I actually get close to max GVWR +110lbs of bumper/winch. That said I'm still considering it because of the front bias. Drivetrain weight is almost exclusively front, anytime 2+ people are in the vehicle both front seats are filled first, the bumper and winch will all be carried by the front wheels.
Additionally I discovered that the 885 spring isn't actually a different spring rate, it's just slightly taller than the 884. Hence, as designed GVWR +110lbs it will sit just as tall as the 884, although already be compressed more. Being a taller spring to start with, and without the full weight of GVWR +110lbs, I assume the 885 would actually provide more realized lift than the 884. Is this a pretty safe assumption? Being that I'm not actually looking for lift as much as I am level, again I'm leaning towards the 884. What are your thoughts on this?

According to Toytec the 884/5/7 are 2" lift springs. The 887 is for people who have a full plate bumper /winch/dual battery setup. For people who want 3" you have to add a spacer. I wasn't aware of the difference between the 884 and 885 you describe. I always assumed the 884 was a factory weight, 2" lift spring.

I can say definitively that adding the 885's in the front and resetting the 5100's to 0 gave me exactly 2" of lift after I had lost ~3/4" from the weight on the factory springs. It also feels and rides very much like it did before I hung the bumper and winch up front. I can also say from driving across truck stop scales before the Jamboree earlier this year, that with my full weekend camping load I had an almost exact 50/50 weight split between the front and rear axles. So the vehicle is already pretty well balanced allowing for loads. I know racers who would kill for the % numbers I had. I will admit I have drawn all my research from the Toytec website. So if they have typos I am repeating the error.

The coils below are for 07+ FJ Cruiser & 03+ 4-Runner.

---884--- 2" lift standard coils - add top plate spacers for full 3" lift

---885--- Medium 2" lift coils for 110 lbs additional front weight

---886--- HD 230+ lbs- 03-09 4Runner Only

---887--- HD 230+ lbs - 2010+ 4Runner Only

Edited to add. That is a good calculator at the OME website. It looks like if you are NOT intending to add a winch the 884 would be good. But if you want a ONE TIME fix, and may be adding a winch in the future, the 885 looks like a better choice. You know you are already adding SOME weight to the nose, and you may be adding more later.
 
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Has anyone tried or have experience with Dobinson Suspension? They seem to be made in Australia and similar to the OME kits, but they offer 2" of lift instead of 3". This seems like a better option for what I am looking for and may be able to aligned without new upper control arms?

The front spring are pretty much the same rating as the OME Medium kit (~580lb/in stock?, 590 OME 2884, 585 Dobinson C59-300) and rears seem like a good compromise between stock and OME heavy (180lb/in stock?, 260lb/in OME 2889, 220lb/in Dobinson C59-325).

The kit comes with gas charged shocks as well and they do offer heavier springs.

Personally, I like the stock ride, a tad bit stiffer and more controlled is ok with me. I like the rake, I am not looking to eliminate it as I like the vehicle to sit flat when loaded/towing, not sagging.

I had an OME kit on my prior LC80 and really liked the way it sat and rode, albeit just a touch firm.

Just curious, but the kit seems very temping (other than the spring color :p).

https://www.amazon.com/Dobinsons-To...d=1475237708&sr=8-4&keywords=ome+4runner&th=1

514Dy4ZgFmL._SX450_.jpg

Hey dude, we have 2" and 3" lifts. Just not all the parts are in for the 3" yet, so it's not up on Amazon yet.

You can customize this, and order whichever coils you want to get the right combination.
 
Hey y'all, read through 80% of this thread. I'm a relatively new member and won't ask much questions, as I've done a couple weeks of reading and feel pretty knowledgable. Thinking about a toytec boss kit for my 15 trail, I want a coil over with easy on-vehicle adjustments to balance front/back and side/side. Hoping for 2.5" lift up front with super flex springs in rear.

Anyways, I'm looking at UCAs and am leaning towards the camburg stock styles with moog ball joints. This seems the best way to get good alignment and retain maintanability with local parts stores down the road. I'm on a budget and don't believe uniballs or heim joints ever belong on street driven vehicles. Especially when I'll be on roads with salt. Our 4 runner only has 18k miles, can anyone advise if I can press out my stock ball joints and put them in the camburg? Also can anyone tell me what size ball joint pieces I would need with my ball joint press?
 
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what lift did you end up giong with?

I have been banging my head against a monitor for a few days now on the forums looking for sound advice on a nice 1st pass at a lift.

We have the stock 17" 5 spoke wheels that I want to run for a little while and I would like to be able to fit a set of 285 Duratracks on them with whichever lift option I go with.

I was hoping that you guys could help me put a lift together to get what I want. I would like at least as much articulation if not more than stock, approximately 2.5" of lift in the front and leveled in the rear. I could spend around a $1,000 but I dont want to have to get into UCA's if I don't have to. This is going to be my wife's daily driver and our weekend fun car. It would be nice if it lost some body roll and dive over stock when on the road, but, we don't want it stiff or harsh either.

So, I was thinking of the 2.5" adjustable Bilstein 5100 package (from toytec w/o coilovers) all around and the Superflex coils to bring the rear up. If I use the adjustable 5100's up front will that actually lift the truck if I keep the stock front coils?

By going this route, what do I lose over the bilstein complete coilover package, ultimate, and boss setups?

What lift kit did you end up going with?
 

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