Be nice to see some plug and play options. I do not consider t splicing into factory wiring plug and play.
I actually took these on Saturday night, they're a lot brighter than I expected
![]()
![]()
![]()
*
Smoked amber or amber? Which lights did you tie into to. stay on while running
I completed the install and i do like the way it looks. It was a slight PITA but worth it. See previous post abt parts.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Great write up. I'm not good with electrical stuff and while I made two trips to auto parts stores, I was at a loss as to what fuse tap to use. Can you put a link to one please? My plan is to follow your post to the T.I didn't really see a good write up on this, so I went through it on my own, so I'll post it here.
First off don't ever use a wire T-Tap on a 40k vehicle, there are always ways around it. Second, I never fuse tap into the under hood fuse box. Toyota's are known for electrical gremlins, so I try to be the least evasive, and always make it so I can return it to stock.
All in all this was fast an easy. It took longer to make this post than to install the lights. I will update if I have any issues.
I used these lights from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECTQNF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Prepped the light tails. No need for fancy connectors.
![]()
I used high quality zip ties, I might change to small bolts if I feel like it.
![]()
![]()
Then I prepped the harness using 18ga, cause that's the smallest I had.
![]()
Then covered it in some split loom.
![]()
Plugged it all in, and filled the connectors with some di-electric grease.
![]()
Then added some electrical tape to the connection areas.
![]()
I ran the power wire through the small hole that the hood latch cable goes through. It fits no problem, and I was able to push it through with only hand pressure. I wrapped the area that goes through the firewall with electrical tape for added protection.
![]()
Then I got out my Voltage Meter and searched for a switched circuit. I found an unused one that was hot when the ignition was on, but not hot when the key is turned to acc.
![]()
![]()
I used a fuse tap I got off Amazon. These are nice, because the new circuit is powered through the main fuse, that way you can't overload it, if you were to tap into a circuit that is already in use.
![]()
I only had 15amp mini fuses, so I'll have to switch them out to some 3amps tomorrow.
![]()
Works great. Much brighter than I thought.
![]()
![]()
Great write up. I'm not good with electrical stuff and while I made two trips to auto parts stores, I was at a loss as to what fuse tap to use. Can you put a link to one please? My plan is to follow your post to the T.
I'm assuming you connected the ground wires together and bolted them to the frame? Can I just use the same bolt as the black from the battery?
Thanks!Here is a link to the add a fuse circuit thing I used off amazon.
You can use the same ground point that the battery connects to. I had no issues with temporary disconnecting the battery, no weird issues with losing presets or anything like that.
Great write up. I'm not good with electrical stuff and while I made two trips to auto parts stores, I was at a loss as to what fuse tap to use. Can you put a link to one please? My plan is to follow your post to the T.
I'm assuming you connected the ground wires together and bolted them to the frame? Can I just use the same bolt as the black from the battery?
Anyone heard good bad cost. My wife had one installed for my bday I think she over paid. And might be me bring pickie but the install looks to low should be in the middle