5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?


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here's a report on Mobil1 oW-40 that i ran for just over 7,000 miles. we fall into the severe category in climate and use, so its a good fit. seems to love this oil going off of the extremely low wear metals. flashpoint is an anomaly because of the way Blackstone calculates it; my guess is its actually totally normal. might shoot for 8k miles next time depending on how things work out.

we see a combined average MPG around 18.5 for mixed daily driving and it runs smooth and quiet. i'm not actually a huge M1 fanboy, but their 0W-40 is excellent as a cheap, tough, easy to find 40 weight that's not too far on the thick side. i've been running it in my other vehicles for years now.

19-4runner-220219-jpg.92867
 
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The robust 4.0 engine will be fine with either oil under normal operating conditions and ambient temperatures across the USA. For most operating conditions above normal, 0W-20 is adequate and at the same time less capable to protect than a higher viscosity oil.

In city driving, my wife tends to make short trips and tries to pass everyone on the road. When the vehicle warranty expired, I began using 5W-30 for driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff, moderate load, grades up to 6%, high ambient temperatures and speeds of 85+. An OBDLink MX+ shows coolant temperature rises 5 degrees and ATF temperature peaks at 224 F on the steepest grade.

I change oil at 5000 miles and filter at 10,000. So, taken all together, I appreciate the extra level of protection 5W-30 offers.

ever change your ATF or coolant? if yes what did you use?
 
I am blown away with how clean the 4Runner’s oil is after 5000 miles. It seriously looks new.

On the contrary, my 2012 Range Rover is a prime example of a high mileage, direct injected vehicle that turns the oil pitch black in less than 500 miles. The manual has the audacity to spec an oil change interval of 15,000 miles. Not kilometers.


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I am blown away with how clean the 4Runner’s oil is after 5000 miles. It seriously looks new.

On the contrary, my 2012 Range Rover is a prime example of a high mileage, direct injected vehicle that turns the oil pitch black in less than 500 miles. The manual has the audacity to spec an oil change interval of 15,000 miles. Not kilometers.


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I havent done my 4runners oil change yet, dealer has done all the work for the first 55k miles. I plan on changing the oil at 59-60k range about 10k use to see what it looks like. I bought 6 OEM filters that were about $2.50 each, and Pennzoil full synthetic 0w-20 I bought 20 qts at $45 and plan on changing out the oil filter housing with the metal one.


My audi's oil I've been changing it at about 7500 miles and its a tad dark, so I plan on doing that at 5-6k range now.
 
I am blown away with how clean the 4Runner’s oil is after 5000 miles. It seriously looks new.

On the contrary, my 2012 Range Rover is a prime example of a high mileage, direct injected vehicle that turns the oil pitch black in less than 500 miles. The manual has the audacity to spec an oil change interval of 15,000 miles. Not kilometers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


15k is basically when they go to the junk yard
 
here's a report on Mobil1 oW-40 that i ran for just over 7,000 miles. we fall into the severe category in climate and use, so its a good fit. seems to love this oil going off of the extremely low wear metals. flashpoint is an anomaly because of the way Blackstone calculates it; my guess is its actually totally normal. might shoot for 8k miles next time depending on how things work out.

we see a combined average MPG around 18.5 for mixed daily driving and it runs smooth and quiet. i'm not actually a huge M1 fanboy, but their 0W-40 is excellent as a cheap, tough, easy to find 40 weight that's not too far on the thick side. i've been running it in my other vehicles for years now.

WBWr0Er.jpg

Thats a fantastic report, nice to see the 4R eat that 0w40 with ease. I'm running my first 10w30 in QSFS and she's a happy girl; I'll be running the 10w30 for most of the year from now on. Engine liked the 5w30 and 0w30 just fine but the 10w30 is even better. Super happy!
Running Fram's ultra synthetic filter also, I'll report back on what I think about it. Seems to flow better but that could be my wishful thinking.
 
Thats a fantastic report, nice to see the 4R eat that 0w40 with ease.

thanks! didn't use a drop and i think it could do 10k with ease even on a severe schedule although i probably won't do that often. 10W-30 should work great for where you are and the trips you take with it.

Running Fram's ultra synthetic filter also, I'll report back on what I think about it. Seems to flow better but that could be my wishful thinking.

Fram's XG filters (ultra synth) are top notch and nothing like the cheap trash-tier orange filters that gave them such a well deserved bad reputation. it'll probably be 100% fine for you.
 
There is a thread by Antman in the mods, writeups sticky that has all you need to know about changing oil including part #s of filter etc. Basically OW20 synthetic and OEM filter cartridge is recommended. Filter cartridges and the housing removal tool are available on Amazon. Interval is in the owners manual . Some members are using a shorter interval if they drive in harsh conditions.

Also, some members report broken skid plate bolts when oil change was done by the dealer. Solution is to remove plate ahead of time and using anti-seize on the bolts before installing. I'm using Mobile1 OW20 FWIW.

This
 
This is my current setup, getting 18.6 MPG (Hand Calculated) mixed driving. No interstate just Florida Hwy and city driving.
 

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The robust 4.0 engine will be fine with either oil under normal operating conditions and ambient temperatures across the USA. For most operating conditions above normal, 0W-20 is adequate and at the same time less capable to protect than a higher viscosity oil.

In city driving, my wife tends to make short trips and tries to pass everyone on the road. When the vehicle warranty expired, I began using 5W-30 for driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff, moderate load, grades up to 6%, high ambient temperatures and speeds of 85+. An OBDLink MX+ shows coolant temperature rises 5 degrees and ATF temperature peaks at 224 F on the steepest grade.

I change oil at 5000 miles and filter at 10,000. So, taken all together, I appreciate the extra level of protection 5W-30 offers.

I think I got the same OBDLink devise to monitor all my fluids; just curious how you got your screen setup? I really like the piece of mind I get from being able to monitor all my fluids on the trail or long interstate driving.
 

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10W30 in the 4.0 V-6 engine is the incorrect viscosity, or are you talking about another engine?

The Dual VVT-i 1GR-FE in the 5th gen 4Runner, is speced for up to 20w50 in some markets. The 0w20 spec here is for CAFE reasons.

Ie: He can use 10w30, but his MPG will be very slightly worse.

He might also have less wear in the engine due to the better HTHS and MOFT characteristics of the higher viscosity oil.
 
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The Dual VVT-i 1GR-FE in the 5th gen 4Runner, is speced for up to 20w50 in some markets. The 0w20 spec here is for CAFE reasons.

Ie: He can use 10w30, but his MPG will be very slightly worse.

He might also have less wear in the engine due to the better HTHS and MOFT characteristics of the higher viscosity oil.

Interesting. A little research shows what you're saying...I'd still but scared to run that thick of oil in this engine. Generally speaking, you can cause more damage running oil that is too thick as opposed to oil that is too thin, on a modern engine.
 
What damage would that be?

I've built and rebuilt too many engines to count. Two yesterday, and there will be two more today. Hopefully four more tomorrow.

We're running a 70 grade motor oil in these engines. They get rebuilt after every pass. Why do we run such a high viscosity oil?, because in this specific application, it's necessary for the engine to have a chance of surviving to the end of the run.

Motor oil specs in the USA in road-going modern ICE's, is all about maximizing fuel economy. In countries where every fraction of an MPG isn't the main goal with the intent of meeting some bureaucratic edict, higher viscosity oils are speced for the same engine. Why?, because the engineers know that running an oil that has less margin for error resulting in possible metal-to-metal contact, makes for a potentially shorter-lived engine.
 
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I think I got the same OBDLink devise to monitor all my fluids; just curious how you got your screen setup? I really like the piece of mind I get from being able to monitor all my fluids on the trail or long interstate driving.

I have the OBDLink MX+ and I like it. Display data is similar to yours as well as some diagnostic data, such as catalytic converter temps, all cylinder misfire count, diagnostic trouble code count, short term fuel trims, long term fuel trims, knock data and tire pressures. YouTube videos explain how to diagnose rich or lean conditions using fuel trims and oxygen sensor voltages. I hope I'll never have to dig that deep into a diagnosis, however it's there if I ever need it.
 

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I have the OBDLink MX+ and I like it. Display data is similar to yours as well as some diagnostic data, such as catalytic converter temps, all cylinder misfire count, diagnostic trouble code count, short term fuel trims, long term fuel trims, knock data and tire pressures. YouTube videos explain how to diagnose rich or lean conditions using fuel trims and oxygen sensor voltages. I hope I'll never have to dig that deep into a diagnosis, however it's there if I ever need it.

can it do TPMS?
 

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