5vz-fe Removal

PitbullRescuer said:
I got stuck at pulling the bolts for the inspection plate to get to the fly wheel bolts. Haven't had time to get back in there.
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This is where I'm at currently. Once I get the two drivers side inspection cover bolts out it should be smoother sailing.

There is no way I'm dropping the diff or steering rack to get to those two little bolts.


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19963.4lsr5 said:
I must get the access cover bolts on the drivers side off. Then the torque converter bolts.


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It takes a bit of effort and some long wobble sockets and winding your arms through places they dont want to fit.. the far driver side one was easy the hard one is the second one in from the drivers side for me. Im putting mine back together in the morning and not looking forward to that part.
 
I got the dust cover off. It explains why the wrecked 96 only had 3 bolts in the inspection cover.

To explain the situation I'm in......the person I bought this from had already removed timing belt stuff to pull the heads. Saying that, I figured this being a no interference engine......that I could still spin the crank to get all the torque converter bolts out. I can't. I got 4 and no more. I must see if the timing belt is bunching up. But I bet I'll be putting the engine in time to remove the last two bolts in the torque converter.


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Is it easier to pull a motor or fix/replace heads?

I have a very nice 1997 4runner the PO did timing belt and all other maintenance and then had head gasket or head issue (white smoke) shortly after. I also have a 1997 that was a rollover that has a great running engine with recent Timing belt. Both are 3.4.

I don't want to spend anymore money than necessary on machining heads or anything for that matter. So I thought I would just swap the motors and keep the one with a bad head or gasket for another day.

Would it be easier labor wise to switch out the engines or do the heads while engine is in the vehicle?
 
I'd swap engines just because of dealing with the exhaust manifold and crossover bolts. I just got done.


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19963.4lsr5 said:
I'd swap engines just because of dealing with the exhaust manifold and crossover bolts. I just got done.


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How long do you think it would take to swap engines for a person that has pulled a few older Chevrolet engines but never a Toyota? Those older chevy's were simple. Starter, exhaust, transmission, engine mounts, alternator, maybe radiator, and pull it out.
The 4Runner doesn't look too complicated but still even reading this thread without diving into it is intimidating.
I am no mechanic however I can fix problems. Recently I pulled intake and heads off 2000 GM 5.3 and replaced heads, lifters, knock sensors.
 
Atoyot Rennur4 said:
How long do you think it would take to swap engines for a person that has pulled a few older Chevrolet engines but never a Toyota? Those older chevy's were simple. Starter, exhaust, transmission, engine mounts, alternator, maybe radiator, and pull it out.

The 4Runner doesn't look too complicated but still even reading this thread without diving into it is intimidating.

I am no mechanic however I can fix problems. Recently I pulled intake and heads off 2000 GM 5.3 and replaced heads, lifters, knock sensors.
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Look at my 97 4Runner build and repair thread. I documented a lot of stuff pulling the engine.

Don't forget the wire harness support bolt on top of the drivers side motor mount. If you do you will pull the 4wd harness connector apart.


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To add to it and answer your question. I spent around 2 afternoons preping to pull the engine.

The pain in the arse part was by far the inspection cover bolts and the torque converter bolts. If you are a 6 ft 5" Sasquatch your hands may not fit to get to the two drivers side little bolts on the dust cover.

The bell housing bolts will be real tight. So will the two nuts and 1 bolts to remove the cataletic converter from the crossover pipe. On the 96 engine I broke or removed the threads from 2/3's of the exhaust studs. In the 97 engine all those nuts and the bolt came off like nothing.

Unplug the engine harness from the PCM inside the dash and unplug all the injectors and coils and sensors clear over to the master cylinder and lay the harness over the drivers side fender. The front starter harness may be a bugger releasing the harness from the support bracket under the harmonic balancer. The fuel line fitting was real tight two line wrenches are required.

It's no different than other engine pulls. Though most American engines already had the two anchor points mounted to the engine somewhere to hook the pulling chain to.


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The rollover donor vehicle has a 5 speed manual transmission. I think I pretty much have it ready to pull but cannot separate the transmission from the engine. Maybe tomorrow I will start at the rear of the truck and unbolt the drive shaft and remove it. Then the transfer case. This vehicle will never see the road again and I want those parts. I might have better luck removing the transmission from under. I can at least lower it and make sure all bolts have been removed. I am pretty god darn sure that all bell housing bolts are out. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
 
Atoyot Rennur4 said:
The rollover donor vehicle has a 5 speed manual transmission. I think I pretty much have it ready to pull but cannot separate the transmission from the engine. Maybe tomorrow I will start at the rear of the truck and unbolt the drive shaft and remove it. Then the transfer case. This vehicle will never see the road again and I want those parts. I might have better luck removing the transmission from under. I can at least lower it and make sure all bolts have been removed. I am pretty god darn sure that all bell housing bolts are out. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Click to expand...

You did remove the little half moon flywheel cover and the starter, right?
 
With all the bell housing bolts out and engine off its mounts a few inches a quick tug pull the engine from the trans. If you push in the clutch can you see the bell housing move at all?


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Also do you have that exhaust support bracket removed from the bell housing and the crossover pipe.


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Yes exhaust bracket off. Exhaust just dangling. I have not tried pushing in clutch. I am working alone and wouldn't know if it moved or not.
I definitely had the engine raised a couple of inches off the mounts. I was not tugging and pushing excessively hard.
Many people speak of the difficult bell housing bolts at the top. With the exhaust dangling the passenger side was not that hard and I was able to get my fingers on the bolt on the driver side and put on a socket with extension. Maybe the manual transmission is not as tight of a squeeze. I cannot believe there are any more bolts but, it was later in the afternoon and a good time to stop.
I already have unbolted front drive shaft but cannot get it to budge. I think I will start at rear differential and get that drive shaft removed. Then remove the transfer case and front drive shaft then the transmission. With all the other components out of the way, I will be able to verify that all bolts are removed. As mentioned the donor is getting scraped so I want these items removed anyway.
 
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If you are going to pull the transmission anyways go ahead and do that first. Keep the transmission and transfer case together, bolt the engine mounts back down, remove both the driveshafts(those *&&^%^@$ need some force to get apart)and unbolt the crossmember while it is supported I assume you have the shift levers off and the clutch slave removed so you should be able to pull the transmission back or strap and winch if you have too. I would keep the 5 speed transmission along with the rear driveshaft, clutch pedal,slave and master cylinder and the ecu and engine harness together. Easier to sell or use as a full 5 speed swap
 
On the wreck I cut the whole rad support off with my sawzaw. Then pulled everything together.

Did you support the trans with a jack to take the tension off the alignment dowels?


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