Thread revival....
Instead of buying wobbles to reach the bell housing bolts, and struggling to get to the cross pipe with where the body sits on the frame
If I want extra room to work with and avoid tight spaces and using wobbles, couldn't I just unbolt the body from the frame and jack the body up?
In my head, I would only jack up one side at any given moment. I got couple of 4x4s for a fail safe to throw in.
Break the bolts on the starter, bell housing and cross pipe, lowerr down pass side, then jack up driver side to get the rest of the bell housing bolts.
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Having separated the body from the frame doing my frame swap, I can state categorically this is a really bad idea. Even for a few inches, you will need to separate:
-brake lines at at least 3 points depending on year (losing all fluid)
-three fuel lines
-fuel neck
-steering column
-e-brake cable (no slack here, and you can't get to the mount without dropping the fuel tank)
-possibly steering hydraulic lines (some slack there, but not much, but for sure the mount on front of frame must come off)
-several electric connections have almost no slack, including fuel pump, sender, rear ABS sensors
-diff vac lines (maybe)
Plus, if you have seen any salt, opening those frame mounts is not always a trivial exercise. Two of mine required a Sawzall and replacement.
Even for a single inch, you have to do all this:
Toytec 1" Body Lift
Honestly, when I did my clutch, with four feet of swivels, working from behind the TC, getting those bolts is not that bad. I had the trans mount loose and used the trans jack to allow the engine to tilt down, making it a lot easier. I also got the three exhaust header to front cat nuts off with the impact and a few impact extensions. Spun right off after 18 years in place in the NJ salt zone, to my surprise and delight.