5vz-fe Removal

Trying to find at least something with a manual is the tricky part.....we'll swap the rear end if we have to.
A manual swap isn't too hard, since you have a parts truck... If the truck is from the same year and not a Limited, it should be pretty easy to swap all the running gear. The under-dash wiring should be compatible, or nearly-so...

-Charlie
 
Hey there, I just used your write up to pull my drivetrain. Everything went ok. Thanks for your pictures and insight.
 
well...finally sourced a recipient 4runner. '98 with 220kmi on it. Now to finish pulling the motor/trans out of the wrecked '99, change the timing belt, water pump, etc., etc., and get it stuffed in the "new" 4runner. Figure we'll do a clutch while we have it apart. We'll also have to swap the rear axle since the new doesn't have one.

ought to keep us busy for a while....guess I ought to start a build thread...

:)

Thanks again for the write up.
 
Can you pull the engine and tranny out together? I have a rolled donor vehicle that I have stripped off everything I need and am ready to pull the engine and tranny out for sale.
 
Can you pull the engine and tranny out together? I have a rolled donor vehicle that I have stripped off everything I need and am ready to pull the engine and tranny out for sale.



I put a sawzaw to the front rad support and pulled both. My 97 SR5 build and repair covers a lot of the engine and transmission pulling from the wrecked 96


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It took me about 1.5 days of work to get it out and about the same putting it back in. I could probably do it in a day if I had to do it again.

Already had a hoist

and got it out in an hour? really?

i just spent 6 hours unhooking the wiring from the motor. Someone barfed all over the passenger side of this donor car right after crashing apparently. That would have saved a shitload of time.
 
i just spent 6 hours unhooking the wiring from the motor. Someone barfed all over the passenger side of this donor car right after crashing apparently. That would have saved a shitload of time.



When I pulled the engine out of the wrecked 96 I cut the rad support off with a sawzaw and pulled engine and trans together.

Only thing I did with wiring was the 2 O2 sensors and the EVAP and front 4wd connector at the drivers side motor mount.

Just unplug the harness from the PCM and deal with it when the engine and trans are on the floor.


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A lot of extensions and good swivel impact sockets and a lot of cussing,but started Saturday at 6pm and took the maiden voyage sunday at 9pm.
 
When I pulled the engine out of the wrecked 96 I cut the rad support off with a sawzaw and pulled engine and trans together.

Only thing I did with wiring was the 2 O2 sensors and the EVAP and front 4wd connector at the drivers side motor mount.

Just unplug the harness from the PCM and deal with it when the engine and trans are on the floor.


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I pulled them both out last night, jacking the transmission up the whole time. It was actually really frustrating, but it is on jackstands so I had to work higher. Took me about 4 hours. Really should have been done in 3
 
I pulled them both out last night, jacking the transmission up the whole time. It was actually really frustrating, but it is on jackstands so I had to work higher. Took me about 4 hours. Really should have been done in 3



The next time will be easier.[emoji12]

I had my brother and a friend helping in the extraction. After I got the transfer cast over the front diff I wrapped a chain around the tail and hooked it to the chain at the intake to keep the tails angle correct so I didn't have to be under escorting it the entire way out.


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The next time will be easier.[emoji12]

I had my brother and a friend helping in the extraction. After I got the transfer cast over the front diff I wrapped a chain around the tail and hooked it to the chain at the intake to keep the tails angle correct so I didn't have to be under escorting it the entire way out.


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All I had was a ratchet strap from Lowe’s. Worked okay but it could not come close to leveling it. This was with the front diff out and I cut off most of the front of the 4runner. It’s a donor

Don’t know why picture is sideways
 

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Manual 5 Speed Engine/Tran Removal Together

Removing the hydrolocked engine on a 1999 SR5 SE. Runner has 451K miles on it so I am going to remove transmission for inspection. Is it possible to remove both engine/transmission as one unit without removing A/C condenser and cutting any structural members?
 

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Big Help!!!

I just finished getting a JDM motor into my 96 T4R SR5. This thread was super helpful Thanks to All who Contributed! Now to finish laying in the wiring harness , etc.
 
Thread revival....

Instead of buying wobbles to reach the bell housing bolts, and struggling to get to the cross pipe with where the body sits on the frame

If I want extra room to work with and avoid tight spaces and using wobbles, couldn't I just unbolt the body from the frame and jack the body up?

In my head, I would only jack up one side at any given moment. I got couple of 4x4s for a fail safe to throw in.

Break the bolts on the starter, bell housing and cross pipe, lowerr down pass side, then jack up driver side to get the rest of the bell housing bolts.

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I think it’s easier to buy a swivel socket. You will have to remove the steering shaft to lift the drivers side.


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I think it’s easier to buy a swivel socket. You will have to remove the steering shaft to lift the drivers side.


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This.

Just buy a 1/2" swivel socket (a good one) and be done with it. You'll need a bunch of long extensions but getting the top bell housing bolts really isn't that hard once you figure out the angle/approach to take.
 
Thread revival....

Instead of buying wobbles to reach the bell housing bolts, and struggling to get to the cross pipe with where the body sits on the frame

If I want extra room to work with and avoid tight spaces and using wobbles, couldn't I just unbolt the body from the frame and jack the body up?

In my head, I would only jack up one side at any given moment. I got couple of 4x4s for a fail safe to throw in.

Break the bolts on the starter, bell housing and cross pipe, lowerr down pass side, then jack up driver side to get the rest of the bell housing bolts.

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Having separated the body from the frame doing my frame swap, I can state categorically this is a really bad idea. Even for a few inches, you will need to separate:

-brake lines at at least 3 points depending on year (losing all fluid)
-three fuel lines
-fuel neck
-steering column
-e-brake cable (no slack here, and you can't get to the mount without dropping the fuel tank)
-possibly steering hydraulic lines (some slack there, but not much, but for sure the mount on front of frame must come off)
-several electric connections have almost no slack, including fuel pump, sender, rear ABS sensors
-diff vac lines (maybe)

Plus, if you have seen any salt, opening those frame mounts is not always a trivial exercise. Two of mine required a Sawzall and replacement.

Even for a single inch, you have to do all this:

Toytec 1" Body Lift

Honestly, when I did my clutch, with four feet of swivels, working from behind the TC, getting those bolts is not that bad. I had the trans mount loose and used the trans jack to allow the engine to tilt down, making it a lot easier. I also got the three exhaust header to front cat nuts off with the impact and a few impact extensions. Spun right off after 18 years in place in the NJ salt zone, to my surprise and delight.
 
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