88 4Runner Project! (Lots of Questions)

It came with bigger tires than stock, I was talking about reverting to stock tire size instead of lifting the suspension. It's a little further back on my list. I have to get everything working first, wipers, horn, etc.
 
It came with bigger tires than stock, I was talking about reverting to stock tire size instead of lifting the suspension. It's a little further back on my list. I have to get everything working first, wipers, horn, etc.
If your rear leafs are blown then you will need to either replace them or do the cheaper ZUK mod.

The 12" black magic springs should help you return to stock height.

The 14" black magic springs will give you about 2" over stock height.

Both should be functional :D

Returning to stock size tires will help with your MPGs and your "get up and go" will be better because your rotation mass will be reduced.

And you will see a reduction in height... easier to get in and out of your rig.

BUT again, if your leafs are blown you should deal with that and one of the least expensive solutions is the ZUK mod... refer to Ray's build.

Keep up the great work!!!

Joel
 
The idle issue is a bit complicated! After m first fill up after I bought it it developed a consistent rough/low idle. I put in new plugs, added seafoam, and ran a tank of premium gas through it. That improved it quite a bit but it would still give me a low/rough idle sometimes.

I picked up from paint earlier this week and it was still idling a bit rough, but not as bas as before. I put new NGK spark plug wires in and that seems to have made it worse.

Current situation is...
-Cold crank, idle surges to about 1500
-Quickly settles to 1100-1000 RPM
-Holds for a few seconds
-Drops down to around 400rpm
-Back up to 1000rpm
-Repeats this for about 30-40seconds then eventually conks out during a low idle.

Truck runs great on the move, problem only shows when it's sitting still.


Check all your vacuum lines, i just bought a 85 and it had a bad cold idle and it ended up being the rubber intake tube that attaches to the throttle body. I had taken it off several times and never bother to look at the bottom side and sure enough there was a huge crack.
This was after i had gone through just about everything, plugs and wires, IACV, cold start injector, cold start switch, removed and cleaned throttle bod and intake manifold. Anyways runs like a champ now.
 
This weekend I tried putting teflon tape on the idle adjustment screw. I set it to three turns from fully tight. The truck idled flawlessly at about 8-900 rpm for two days. Tried starting it up today and it did the old high idle/low idle, conk out. I'll try it again after work to see if it repeats the issue.

Next order of business is to get the horn and wipers working so I can pass safety inspection.

I am having some trouble removing the cowl, removed the three screws in the center but there are two brittle plastic rivets on the ends. I assume these are the only things preventing me from removing the cowl? Any thoughts on how to get them off without removing the hood? (I hope)

Wiper linkage underneath is either broken or disconnected.

In the meantime I ignored the important stuff and popped on some hella lights and sweet little dick cepek stone guards ($9 on ebay). I Like the look and I hope they'll protect the glass lenses a bit.
 

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If you didn't know already, worn horn contacts inside the steering wheel is a common issue. I need to fix this on my '87.
 
Managed to fix the wipers last night. Removed the cowl by tapping the heads of the brittle plastic rivets off with a mallet and a sharp flat head screwdriver. I found the wiper linkage disconnected and jammed up, which explains why the motor was getting really hot without moving anything. Re-connected the linkage and replaced the cowl and presto, working wipers!

The design seems pretty weak on those things. It's a little plastic ball and socket deal that just snaps into place. Guess it's designed to pop off before anything breaks?

Need to find the part number for those plastic rivets or better yet, figure out a way to replace them with screws.
 
This is low priority, but does anyone know where I could get some centercaps for my back wheels? Seems to be options on ebay but I don't know what would or wouldn't fit my steelies.

Suppose I could just plastidip the hub black.
 
Nice Runner....I was eyeing that one as well.

For the rear suspension, I added two cut down leaves to the factory rear pack and a 2" longer shackle...tried to get the best of both worlds. Plenty of room for 31s, and didn't cost much at all and will be dependable.

For the most reliable front end lift, if you want to lift it, is the heavier duty torsion bars.

And I second the search for the vacuum leak first. Often times you hear that the cheapest/most obvious issues are the culprit.
 
Thanks for the link on the centercaps, may give those a try. I ordered a bunch of nuts and bolts plus a horn contact plate and an A/C faceplate off toyotapartsdeal.com. Great prices but they'll take forever to get here. Also still no sign of any center seat brackets for the rear!!!!! I want 4 seat capability so bad!

Still debating on the ZUK mod. There seems to be a lot of documentation for it but it just doesn't look right to me, spring on the bump stop with nothing really holding it in place except pressure looks like bad news to my untrained eye.

OME kit is super nice but just too much. Has anyone just put new leaf springs in? Skyjacker "soft ride" leafs are supposed to add about 2" of lift and are about $150ea. I haven't looked hard but there have to be some other brands out there too?


Anyone care to sell me on the ZUK mod or some other option? I'd say the rear end needs to go up about 2" or so for good clearance under moderate loads and the front should go up maybe 1" or so.
 
The paint turned out great! Please get some sort of theft protection for it. I always liked the Club. It will not stop a pro west coast thief but it will stop the joy riders.

I don't understand why you are using Plasti Dip on body parts. It is designed to peel off. I used satin black Rustoleum on wiper arms etc. four years ago and it has held up.
 
The paint turned out great! Please get some sort of theft protection for it. I always liked the Club. It will not stop a pro west coast thief but it will stop the joy riders.

I don't understand why you are using Plasti Dip on body parts. It is designed to peel off. I used satin black Rustoleum on wiper arms etc. four years ago and it has held up.

Pretty much just because it's all I had handy in matte black. Also it's really easy to get a consistent finish and its proven quite durable in my experience.

Agree on the anti-theft. Need something to protect it. Add that to the list!
 
Picked up a stock rear bumper and skid last weekend (thanks ajohnson!) Was bolting it on yesterday with some slightly rusty hardware and one of the bolt heads sheared off with very minimal force. I cleaned the threads with a wire brush and was using a small 3/8's ratchet and it just broke off like it was made of cheese!
That'll teach me to buy new hardware.

There are no exposed threads, it's nearly flush with the hole. Anybody have a good bolt extraction technique to share? Preferably one that does not involve a welder.
 

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Thanks for the link, saw a few and heard of a few different techniques through searching and talking to people around here, just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas I hadn't heard of! I just haven't had a ton of luck with extractors in the past.
 
The headliner can be glued, but if it has shrunk due to age or moisture I'm not sure if you can ever get it back. You could try applying some heat and try and stretch it, but that might loosen the entire headliner and make things worse.

Forget fixing the headliner. If you don't mind non-OEM but utilitarian...

_MG_5357_zpsc2cb646f.jpg~original


_MG_5359_zps155155b2.jpg~original


Diamond-plate pattern anti-fatigue/shop mat... approx $22 from Sears.
I removed old headliner, left foam in there because it is still in good shape, and used some headliner spray adhesive to stick mat on to old foam. Adhesive not even critical because the mat is pretty rigid. It does not sag.

Now I have extra acoustic insulation on the Fiberglas cap...
 
WOOHOOO SEAT BRACKETS!

Finally stumbled on a full set of rear seat brackets on ebay. So stoked to have 4 seat capability. I'm just going to have to figure out how to mount the (strikers?) on the DIY interior panel that came on the truck.

I'd also really like to find some headrests to fit my rear seats. Does anyone happen to know if other gen's headrests will fit or if there are universal headrests with 5.5" posts? Don't particularly care about matching things up.

Finally with regards to the rear seats, has anyone come up with a nice way to cover the rear seats up? The velour on mine is pretty gross even though the seats themselves (frames and cushions) seem to be in great shape. Even though it's probably the best solution, I'd rather not pay $300+ to get them re-upholstered.

Any decent quality seat covers out there?
 

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