A few pictures of my Runner

[D Farms]

whats the deal with the recall? Also sick toyota grille, I made an led plate from scratch and I made a cover for it that is clear amber, so in the city I just run that on top of it and it lights up with a big orange toyota.

 

[infamousRNR]

elaborate on recall

Last week I brought it in to the Toyota service center and got new rear coils and cones put on due to the factory recall on the original springs. Nice freebie.

anyway you can elaborate on how you went about finding this out or getting the dealer to instal new coils??

 

[T4R2014]

There is info on the rear spring recall in the master directory thread.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Last week I brought it in to the Toyota service center and got new rear coils and cones put on due to the factory recall on the original springs. Nice freebie.



where did you get the info for the recall? i have a 99 limited and if i can get some free coils that would be awesome. especially iof there still doing it when it has a bunch of miles

Last week I brought it in to the Toyota service center and got new rear coils and cones put on due to the factory recall on the original springs. Nice freebie.

anyway you can elaborate on how you went about finding this out or getting the dealer to instal new coils??

There is info on the rear spring recall in the master directory thread.

^ What he said. I found all that info on the forum

 

[1985taylor1925]

whats the deal with the recall? Also sick toyota grille, I made an led plate from scratch and I made a cover for it that is clear amber, so in the city I just run that on top of it and it lights up with a big orange toyota.

Thats pretty cool man. Definately creative

 

[BrianSD_42]

Figured I would post this in my thread to avoid starting a new one. I installed my new speakers and stereo several months ago, and now all of the sudden Im having a wierd issue with them. While the stereo is on the passenger side speakers will suddenly go out and the only noise coming from them is a ticking/humming sound. And the sound is consistant with my engine RPMs. So, when Im parked the ticking is less frequent, and then when I take off and the rps increase, the ticking increases in frequency as well. During this time the driver side speakers continue to work with no issues. And then, without any reason the ticking will stop and the speakers will start working again.

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? Something with a ground wire maybe? While I did install the speakers and stereo myself, I know relatively little about electronics

A couple of questions ...

1) did you run new separate (+) Power and (-) Ground from the battery to the head unit?

2) did you do the same for whatever amp you are powering (this would be an automatic yes unless you have a mini amp or something else

3) did you run new speaker wire?

4) for each amp ground did you sand the paint on the body down to the metal and attach the ground? I used the rear seatbelt bolts.

I'd recommend doing all of these things if you haven't already. By doing so you bypass the factory power and speaker wire. At a minimum run new (+) & (-) to the head unit.

 

[1985taylor1925]

A couple of questions ...

1) did you run new separate (+) Power and (-) Ground from the battery to the head unit?

2) did you do the same for whatever amp you are powering (this would be an automatic yes unless you have a mini amp or something else

3) did you run new speaker wire?

4) for each amp ground did you sand the paint on the body down to the metal and attach the ground? I used the rear seatbelt bolts.

I'd recommend doing all of these things if you haven't already. By doing so you bypass the factory power and speaker wire. At a minimum run new (+) & (-) to the head unit.

I know I ran all new wiring for the actual speakers and amp, and I know I ran wiring to the positive terminal of the battery, but the rest I cant remember at this point. I wont lie, I hate electrical stuff. Anyways, I'll tear into it pretty soon here. Still waiting for it to warm up here in WI. I ran the grounds to a bolt that already had a ground wire attached, so no I didnt sand it. I read that you want all your grounds attached at the same spot to prevent ground looping. Is that correct?

 

[BrianSD_42]

How does the looping occur?
Does it happen on radio mode, cd, aux in or all?

My amp grounds are not at the same spot. Two under the rear seat on the seatbelt bolt. The area is sanded down to the metal. My main power 4G runs all way to the battery .

My head unit is powered by separate "yellow" or primary power connected all the way to the battery. The red ACC wire connects to the head unit and provides it trigger -voltage potential- when the key is in. The ground for the head unit was run all the way to battery negative, directly on the battery. (Well actually my Blue Marine fuse box).

 

[1985taylor1925]

Thought this was pretty good

????????????2012 Toyota Hilux Australia Unbreakable - YouTube

 

[1985taylor1925]

Super cool FJ Cruiser I pulled up next to at the gas station tonight. I got talking to the guy for a bit. He did the graphics himself with auto vinyl. I think it looks sleek and unique.

 

[1985taylor1925]

My new Toy. 1988 4runner. 3.0L. Manual. 4x4. 211000 miles with the engine rebuilt at 120000 via the recall for the head gasket. Interior is almost mint. All stock and very well maintained and was originally a California truck. Though, the salt has done a number on it in its time here in WI. Im planning on doing a full restoration over the next year or so.

I was very impressed with how it drove and handled on the highway at 70mph. No rattles or vibrations, fairly quiet, and has a lot more pep than I expected for 150hp. Stick shift is awesome! Its been years since Ive owned a manual.














Running boards off.

 

[1985taylor1925]

It's kinda been forever since Ive posted here, so I figured I would give an update on Jitters as I actually have a lot going on with it right now.

New tail lights as of the beginning of the summer. The leds are a ton brighter than my old bulbs.




Switched out the Tundra setup with Taco 5100s and stock 99 coils. Set on the highest perch, this actually gave me another inch over the Tundra setup, and rides so much nicer. Still running OME 890s with LC shocks in the back. By the way my Tundra setup (around 130k miles) is now for sale.




Right now I also have a plethora of parts sitting in the garage ready to be installed, when I get the chance. To include . . .

-New Safari LTD steering rack with poly bushings
-Low mileage power steering pump
-New OEM rod ends
-New OEM upper ball joints
-Plugs and wires
-Diff drop
-Used OEM cv's
-Bumper valance color matched black
-Sport flares color matched black

And Jitters still looks amazing at 229000 miles and four Midwest winters.

 

[foskco87]

Just gotta say I love what you've done to your 4runner.... I have a couple questions.... What did you use as a rust converter and paint for rust protecting the undercarriage of your truck? How has it held up? I live in Canada and badly need to do this to mine while its still clean underneath. Also if you could clarify.... how much lift would you say you currently have over stock height with the 99/bilstiens, and the 890/LC's.... and how is the ride compared to stock?? I Would assume the 99/bilstiens would ride quite nice, but I've heard that the 890's can ride really rough and stiff.


And also I love that 88 4runner... They just look so fun.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Just gotta say I love what you've done to your 4runner.... I have a couple questions.... What did you use as a rust converter and paint for rust protecting the undercarriage of your truck? How has it held up? I live in Canada and badly need to do this to mine while its still clean underneath. Also if you could clarify.... how much lift would you say you currently have over stock height with the 99/bilstiens, and the 890/LC's.... and how is the ride compared to stock?? I Would assume the 99/bilstiens would ride quite nice, but I've heard that the 890's can ride really rough and stiff.


And also I love that 88 4runner... They just look so fun.

Hey thanks for the compliments!

For the rust converter I used a brush on solution from PlastiKote. Then I covered that with rustoleum black enamel. But honestly it hasn't held up that well. I think that's because plasikote is a cheaper product, and I didn't do quite enough prep work. I would recommend going on eastwood.com and looking through their rust prevention products. They have a ton of great products. There are quite a few choices for rust converters/encapsulators these days.

My lift is around 2.5" in the front and 3" in the back in those pictures. The ride up front is great with the 99 coils/5100s. The 890s work quite well and I don't have a single complaint about them paired with the lc shocks. They are stiffer than stock Im sure, but probably not by much. Though it is impossible for me to say at this point as its been 3 years since Ive had OEM rear coils. But before the 890s I ran Performance Products coils with KYB gas shocks, followed by LC 7 wraps with the lc shocks, and the 890s ride better than both of those at stock weight. A lot of members use and like the lc coils, but they were WAY too tall for me. Im talking 4.5" of lift.

I am actually going to be changing my rear setup this weekend. I ordered 99 rear coils to match the fronts, and a 1.5" spacer to match the height with the front. I would keep the 890s, but I don't like the offset of the rear axle, and I don't want to pay for an adjustable panhard bar. So Ill have my 890s up for sale soon. If you are interested in them let me know!

Phil

 

[1985taylor1925]

Comparison of 890s and 99 OEMs with daystar 1.5 spacer

Ive recently done a TON of front end work on my truck, replacing basically everything, including the suspension. With that I also did the rear, and thought that my experiences might serve as valuable info for some of the members here.

Ive been running my truck lifted for 3 years now, and have had 3 completely different setups both in the front and rear. I decided to drop the truck a bit going with Tacoma 5100s/99s in the front, and 99s with 1.5" daystar spacers in the back. Im still using LC shocks in the back as well. I love the look of a 3" lift, but wanted to get my alignment specs closer to stock. This is the main reason I dropped it down a bit - for on road ride quality and wear on my tires. And I like the fact that at any point if I decide, I can put the fronts on the lowest setting, and then remove the spacers in the back and be at 99 coil stock height.

So here are my observations. Keep in mind my 3rd gen is a 98. With the 890s I had 3" of rear lift, and now I have around 2.5" as expected (99s = 1" + 1.5" daystar spacers = 2.5" lift). I actually wanted to drop it even more than that, like to 1.75", which is what I have in the front on the 5100 middle setting. Im hoping the used 99s settle a bit over the next few months.

Ride quality and handling:

Surprisingly the ride is ALMOST identical in the back. At higher speeds it feels exactly the same. I want to believe that the 99s are a bit softer than the 890s, as that would make sense. But I cant honestly say they feel any softer. In fact, the one difference I noticed was that at low speeds the 99s actually feel a bit stiffer. I.e. when one side hits a decent bump you really feel it. Its like the rear axel doesnt want to flex as easily. I believe this is because the 890s are progressive, while the 99 spring rate is consistent. So while the 890s have an overall stiffer spring rate and can haul more weight, at slow speeds they handle very well with that softer section toward the top taking more of impact from bumps. At higher speeds things even out as the 99s are softer overall, and the 890s will be pushing beyond the soft section and into the stiffer coils.

Conclusion:

The ride is very similar overall. 890s give 3" lift. 99s + 1.5" spacer give 2.25-2.5". Clearly 890s are better for someone who does a lot of off road driving as they provide more articulation. They can also handle more weight than stock coils. 99s with spacers feel great on the road, and get the axle a little closer to center for those like me who don't want to pay $200 for an adjustable panhard bar.

 

[Brilliant]

Ride is the same because you have the same shocks in the rear? That would make sense.... ?

 

[1985taylor1925]

Ride is the same because you have the same shocks in the rear? That would make sense....

Same shocks, yeah. I was a little worried about that as the LC shocks are obviously valved for the LC coils which are obviously stiffer than the 3rd gen coils. But it seems to work quite well. I just expected the 99s to feel softer than the 890s, which hasn't been the case. Maybe they would if I had a softer shock

 

[Brilliant]

Same shocks, yeah. I was a little worried about that as the LC shocks are obviously valved for the LC coils which are obviously stiffer than the 3rd gen coils. But it seems to work quite well. I just expected the 99s to feel softer than the 890s, which hasn't been the case. Maybe they would if I had a softer shock

That's interesting. I always swapped the shocks and the springs when I was experimenting with springs. Your data point sounds like a good one, maybe find the shocks you like on 99s + spacer and 890s should ride similar.

I ended up running low damped digressive bilstiens with 99s and later 4x4 FJs. The stiffer OME springs and the shocks folks typically paired seemed to ride terrible without weight.

If you can deal with the free height, you might also check out FJ springs. My experience is they are stiffer than 99s and hold a bit of weight while maintaining Oe ride. Camburg makes a +2 which I'll get if I go higher.

 

[1985taylor1925]

That's interesting. I always swapped the shocks and the springs when I was experimenting with springs. Your data point sounds like a good one, maybe find the shocks you like on 99s + spacer and 890s should ride similar.

I ended up running low damped digressive bilstiens with 99s and later 4x4 FJs. The stiffer OME springs and the shocks folks typically paired seemed to ride terrible without weight.

If you can deal with the free height, you might also check out FJ springs. My experience is they are stiffer than 99s and hold a bit of weight while maintaining Oe ride. Camburg makes a +2 which I'll get if I go higher.

As for now my ride quality and ride height are finally what I want. Sitting at around 2" front and back, and the ride is softer than my previous setup. The back actually quite well with the LC shocks paired to the 99 coils and spacers.

What are the "low damped digressive bilsteins" youre talking about? Low damped meaning they are softer? Digressive meaning they get softer as they extend?

 

[1985taylor1925]

That's interesting. I always swapped the shocks and the springs when I was experimenting with springs. Your data point sounds like a good one, maybe find the shocks you like on 99s + spacer and 890s should ride similar.

I ended up running low damped digressive bilstiens with 99s and later 4x4 FJs. The stiffer OME springs and the shocks folks typically paired seemed to ride terrible without weight.

If you can deal with the free height, you might also check out FJ springs. My experience is they are stiffer than 99s and hold a bit of weight while maintaining Oe ride. Camburg makes a +2 which I'll get if I go higher.

As for now my ride quality and ride height are finally what I want. Sitting at around 2" front and back, and the ride is softer than my previous setup. The back actually quite well with the LC shocks paired to the 99 coils and spacers.

What are the "low damped digressive bilsteins" youre talking about? Low damped meaning they are softer? Digressive meaning they get softer as they move toward full extension?