A.Wilson013's Build Thread

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Basically the two bronze bushings have been replaced with three bearings. It opens and closes with absolutely ZERO resistance. It has less resistance than my front door.

Truck is looking killer man. Did these bearings take out any of the slop that the swing out had with the brass bushings? After almost 4 years my bushings have quite a bit of play
 
Truck is looking killer man. Did these bearings take out any of the slop that the swing out had with the brass bushings? After almost 4 years my bushings have quite a bit of play
I never noticed any slop in the bushings... In fact, when we took my bumper apart to put on [MENTION=82154]GSPRunner[/MENTION]'s 4Runner it was so tight to the spindle that we could NOT get it off. Ended up having to use my hi-lift to jack up on the swing arm. It would lift the 4Runner like 3 inches, then the arm would move. That thing was TIGHT.

The only "slop" I see is the back and forth movement of the swing arm over bumps that everyone complains about. It didn't help with that whatsoever.

I absolutely love you truck. This is what a 3rd gen 4runner should look like. Nice job man.
Thank you! I am very happy with it.

Are you kidding! Your truck is boss Alex! :jaw:
Thanks, Gary. I cannot wait to see where you go with your 4Runner... Maybe put some of that GT-R sale into forced induction??? =D
 
I never noticed any slop in the bushings... In fact, when we took my bumper apart to put on [MENTION=82154]GSPRunner[/MENTION]'s 4Runner it was so tight to the spindle that we could NOT get it off. Ended up having to use my hi-lift to jack up on the swing arm. It would lift the 4Runner like 3 inches, then the arm would move. That thing was TIGHT.

Mine used to be like that. [MENTION=78892]Fishwerks[/MENTION] and I spent like 30 minutes hitting it off with a sledgehammer with a block of wood in between. Problem is when I put it back on I got a little play haha. I notice more front to back play than was there before.
 
Your a madman!!

Damnit, I still haven't zip tied and remounted my wire loom for the projectors, which by the way .....you also installed, crap !!

I'm just jealous, It seems that no dust settles around you,the rig looks awesome man:trophy:

I have maybe a stupid question, with the new UCA's, how or is it easier to do an alignment then say, the other style (not uniball) that you just removed
 
Mine used to be like that. [MENTION=78892]Fishwerks[/MENTION] and I spent like 30 minutes hitting it off with a sledgehammer with a block of wood in between. Problem is when I put it back on I got a little play haha. I notice more front to back play than was there before.
I never noticed that... I wonder if somehow the shock from the sledge did some bad to the bushings, and the relatively "smooth" use of the jack did not? Weird. We DID have to use a sledge to get it back on, but I didn't notice it being any worse.

I have maybe a stupid question, with the new UCA's, how or is it easier to do an alignment then say, the other style (not uniball) that you just removed

Honestly man, I am not sure. I THINK (pretty sure) that the caster is built in to the UCA's now, where before with the SPC/LR UCAs the caster was adjusted with a big bolt/plate on top of the new upper ball joint.
 
Yeah its interesting because just by looking at pictures it's hard to see how it can be adjusted, Not that's it's important, just curious for future purchases. I'm sure if it's built in then alignments must be easier, and or able to be better maintained
Thanks man.
 
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I got this idea in my head the other day that I wanted to finally address my swaybar end-links. I had been hesitant for a couple of reasons- Price, and the thought that it wouldn't make that big of a difference.

But anyway, I decided to do some research here on the forum and found a great write-up that would give me a set of longer end-links for about $35... At this point any mod under $500 is worth checking out, in my opinion.

Here's the write-up I used... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97769-built-new-swaybar-endlinks-my-runner.html.. The only thing I did different was that I followed some advice I saw (I think from [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]) that said not to use bushings on either end of the swaybar. I checked out his that he sells and it looked like he just had a nut on either side (not really the case, but close enough... I think), so I followed suit.

Here's a link to the links... :playball: Amazon.com: Energy Suspension 9.8149G End Link Set: Automotive

Outcome: Freaking awesome. I was previously using my front links that are probably original and I thought they were fine... I was wrong. The difference in handling was SO drastic that I had my wife take it for a drive to make sure I wasn't losing my mind.

Comparison shot... OEM 3rd Gen FRONT link vs The new ones. The new ones are almost EXACTLY 1/2" longer than the 3rd gen FRONT links from mounting point to mounting point, not overall. I don't know/care what the difference was overall =)
yn8DeSKl.jpg


Frame side...
Tck9CBhl.jpg


Sway-bar side...
DuKi1UNl.jpg

Thanks for posting this! I wasn't sure what size to go with, but now I know. I'm going with the same size as you in the rear and one size larger for the front ones.

Have you had any issues with the eyebolts?

I saw some people saying they aren't strong enough, but they were all also running bushings so they had a longer bolt and more torque on the bolt. I'm going to run mine just like yours, without the bushings on the eyebolt.
 
Thanks for posting this! I wasn't sure what size to go with, but now I know. I'm going with the same size as you in the rear and one size larger for the front ones.

Have you had any issues with the eyebolts?

I saw some people saying they aren't strong enough, but they were all also running bushings so they had a longer bolt and more torque on the bolt. I'm going to run mine just like yours, without the bushings on the eyebolt.

I have had no issues at all, however I did change one thing... I added a lock nut to the eye bolt after nearly losing the first nut. To be clear... I am running the normal nut and a lock nut to hold it there.
 
I have had no issues at all, however I did change one thing... I added a lock nut to the eye bolt after nearly losing the first nut. To be clear... I am running the normal nut and a lock nut to hold it there.

Great, thanks for the response! I run lock nuts on almost everything actually, I'll be sure to pick some up when I get the eyebolts.
 
Great, thanks for the response! I run lock nuts on almost everything actually, I'll be sure to pick some up when I get the eyebolts.

Also make sure your eye bolts are threaded all the way down the shaft. One of mine wasn't, so I had to get a new one.
 
[MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] truck looks nice but then again, I'm partial to IJM. Quick question for you. I see you went with Mike's rear antenna mount. Was there a good reason for not using the available mounts on the CBI bumper or having them add one on the left side? You may have covered this in your build somewhere. If so just kick me over to the link. Thanks!!
 
[MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] truck looks nice but then again, I'm partial to IJM. Quick question for you. I see you went with Mike's rear antenna mount. Was there a good reason for not using the available mounts on the CBI bumper or having them add one on the left side? You may have covered this in your build somewhere. If so just kick me over to the link. Thanks!!

Thanks, I am a bit partial to it as well, haha.

I bought my ODL antenna mount years before I got my CBI bumper. The main reason I don't use their mount now that I have it is because I am too lazy to re-run the antenna cable.

Some day, before too long, I plan to rip out my whole CB setup, sell it, and just get one that I can throw in when I head out on trips... Magnet mount, hand help type I think.
 
Thanks, I am a bit partial to it as well, haha.

I bought my ODL antenna mount years before I got my CBI bumper. The main reason I don't use their mount now that I have it is because I am too lazy to re-run the antenna cable.

Some day, before too long, I plan to rip out my whole CB setup, sell it, and just get one that I can throw in when I head out on trips... Magnet mount, hand help type I think.

Got it. Makes sense. I've been penciling in some future plans and either the magnetic or permanent bumper mount are my options. I too am leaning towards a magnetic mount. I like the split CBI bumper they used in the Overland Central America Expedition, but I'm having a hard time justifying the weight and the expense for just a spare tire, two jerry cans, and a table. I think a rack with a rotopax mounts and a spare tire carrier would be more functional (for me). Any thoughts much appreciated. They used magnetic antennas with hand held 2 meter ham radios from High Altitude Communications. I'm not sure what CB's they used. Still in the planning stages.

EDIT: forgot to re-size the image and it nearly knocked my speakers off my desk when I opened it.
 

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[MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] I completely forgot about getting you measurements. Do you still need them?
 


There you are.

Basically the two bronze bushings have been replaced with three bearings. It opens and closes with absolutely ZERO resistance. It has less resistance than my front door.
Do you have any more details on replacing the bushings with bearings? That's one of the few (minor) complaints I have about the swingout on my CBI bumper is the force it takes to open with the weight of a spare tire, jerry can, and Hi-Lift.

I purchased my bumper about 2 years ago...not sure if the design has changed at all, but mine does have 2 large Oilite bronze bushings. Do you have a P/N for the bearings you used? Also, how did you end up using 3 bearings instead of 2 (or 4)? Sorry if you covered this elsewhere, I read a few pages back and didn't see any other mention of it.
 
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