A.Wilson013's Build Thread

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Timing Belt and Head Replacement

In response to this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/223091-no-cel-repeatable-misfire-loss-power-video-her-pleasure-3.html
my savings account has $1595 less in it.

I ordered:
AISIN TKT-025 Timing Belt Kit
90916-03075 Thermostat
82219-34010 Knock Sensor Harness
12x 90116-10150 Exhaust Studs
21x 90080-17187 Exhaust Nuts
2x 11188-62010 Cam Shaft Plug
04112-62130 Valve Grind Gasket Kit
New Heads from Here (Highly recommended by a friend who has used them for more than 30 cracked/warped head replacements)

I contacted a friend at a local dealership and he put me in touch with a Toyota Master Tech that's going to do the work for what I consider a very, very reasonable price. Was hoping to get it done this weekend, but it doesn't look like the heads are going to make it in time, unfortunately.

Hopefully we'll be up and running before long...
 
Good luck Alex. A friend of mine in Tampa has used Odessa in Clearwater many times. They do everything from auto heads to those used in marine applications. Never has had a problem with any of their heads AFAIK.

I'd also get some new head bolts. They are torque to yield, and this isn't a job you want to do again if the head doesn't seat correctly.

Take some pics and post them, especially if cyl #4 does indeed have a crack in it.
 
Good luck Alex. A friend of mine in Tampa has used Odessa in Clearwater many times. They do everything from auto heads to those used in marine applications. Never has had a problem with any of their heads AFAIK.

I'd also get some new head bolts. They are torque to yield, and this isn't a job you want to do again if the head doesn't seat correctly.

Take some pics and post them, especially if cyl #4 does indeed have a crack in it.

Thank you. Good point on the bolts. My buddy gave me the shopping list and must have forgotten those. I never would have known, haha.
 
my savings account has $1595 less in it.

I contacted a friend at a local dealership and he put me in touch with a Toyota Master Tech that's going to do the work ...

Good to see you're making progress on it. Sucks having to spend that kind of money where you can't "see" where it went, but you'll be set for a long time.

Good call on the Master Tech. If you're satisfied after the work is complete, make sure you let the service manager know he's the only one you want working on your rig. They'll put that on file.

I'll be taking off for the WABDR on Thursday morning. Looks like all is clear all the way up to Nighthawk. I'm only carrying a spare axle and tools for the rig.
 
Howdy Alex,

I am currently planning my build and was hoping to get some feedback from you on your suspension and tire/wheel combination. My main goals are getting a decent lift(2.5-3") while maintaining as much ride quality, reliability, and gas mileage as I can. This is my daily driver, and while my off road use will be infrequent, I want to to perform well when I do. I wont be pushing any limits while off roading, I just don't want to break down and be SOL if I'm doing something moderate on my own.

What has your experience been with the Icon setup? I am considering getting the stage 2 set which includes the UCA.

What is the ride quality like? I believe they are designed to handle an application like yours with after market bumpers and a lot of weight. I plan on going the aftermarket bumper route, but at a later stage. I wonder if I will be unhappy with the ride quality until I do.

How is the UCA? I have read they can get squeaky and require regular maintenance to prevent this. In retrospect would you still go for the icon UCA, or try one with sealed ball joint?

How is the durability? I have read that since these shocks are rebuildable, you have to rebuild them more frequently then you would replace a non-rebuildable setup.

As far as tires go, how are the Duratracs, and have there been any other tires you thought performed well? I live in the Seattle area as well, and really want a tire that will perform well in the rain and in the off road conditions we have in PNW. Ride quality is important to me as well, so I am pretty sure I want to steer clear of any E rated tires.

How is the gas mileage with your tire/wheel combo? I believe seeing in some other threads that you are getting ~18mpg? From my reading it seems that wheel and tire weight has the biggest impact on mpg(well that and regearing), so I was wondering if you chose a wheel/tire that was on the lighter side, and that resulted in you getting better gas mileage, or if there was something else in play.

Thanks,
Jesse
 
Howdy Alex,

I am currently planning my build and was hoping to get some feedback from you on your suspension and tire/wheel combination. My main goals are getting a decent lift(2.5-3") while maintaining as much ride quality, reliability, and gas mileage as I can. This is my daily driver, and while my off road use will be infrequent, I want to to perform well when I do. I wont be pushing any limits while off roading, I just don't want to break down and be SOL if I'm doing something moderate on my own.

What has your experience been with the Icon setup? I am considering getting the stage 2 set which includes the UCA.

What is the ride quality like? I believe they are designed to handle an application like yours with after market bumpers and a lot of weight. I plan on going the aftermarket bumper route, but at a later stage. I wonder if I will be unhappy with the ride quality until I do.

How is the UCA? I have read they can get squeaky and require regular maintenance to prevent this. In retrospect would you still go for the icon UCA, or try one with sealed ball joint?

How is the durability? I have read that since these shocks are rebuildable, you have to rebuild them more frequently then you would replace a non-rebuildable setup.

As far as tires go, how are the Duratracs, and have there been any other tires you thought performed well? I live in the Seattle area as well, and really want a tire that will perform well in the rain and in the off road conditions we have in PNW. Ride quality is important to me as well, so I am pretty sure I want to steer clear of any E rated tires.

How is the gas mileage with your tire/wheel combo? I believe seeing in some other threads that you are getting ~18mpg? From my reading it seems that wheel and tire weight has the biggest impact on mpg(well that and regearing), so I was wondering if you chose a wheel/tire that was on the lighter side, and that resulted in you getting better gas mileage, or if there was something else in play.

Thanks,
Jesse

I'll try to answer this as well as I can... Here we go.

My experience with my Icon setup has been pretty positive, but I would not praise it as being any better than a King, Fox, or SAW setup. I have had very little hands-on experience with Fox or SAW, but I am sure they're every bit as good as the Icon or King setups.

The ride quality. Anyone that tells you that their lifted 4Runner rides "like a cadillac" or "on clouds" is full of crap. Unless, of course, they're running some crazy long travel setup with a crazy low spring rate and valving. Even then, I'd be skeptical. Since Icon uses a digressive valving, they're pretty stiff around town when you hit a pot hole, speed bump, child, etc going 5mph. However, as you increase your speed and start cycling the suspension more quickly, they really start to shine. This is perfect to me for the forest service road type trips that I love to take. If I need to go slow over a tougher trail I can simply hop out, turn the CVC Valves to a softer setting, and do just fine. But yeah, the valving on them is stiffer than stock, and the spring rate is higher. It's going to ride rougher than stock.

The UCA is great. I hated them for a couple of months because I thought they were squeaking, but then I found out it was my fairly recently replaced LCA bushings. Maintenance isn't bad at all. The first time they made a sound I sprayed some tri-flow onto the uni-balls, then soaked up the excess with a paper towel. Takes all of about 30 seconds every couple weeks maybe? I just do it when I am outside and it pops into my head. The bushings I grease after any long offroad type trips. Probably overkill, but it makes me happy. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do it properly with the through-bolt loosened and suspension drooped.

I went the Light Racing / SPC route for a year or so and found playing in the ball joint, so I gave them to a friend for $100 and bought the Icons. I had no complaints with the ball joint setup, but I once I had the uni-balls I could immediately tell a difference in handling. It just feels tighter.

Shock durability... I'm a big fan of "if it's not broke, don't fix it" so I plan to run them until I see them start to leak fluid. My last coilovers had about 40k miles on them before they needed a rebuild, and the shocks were at about 50k. There's a guy here in Renton that rebuilds them, so it's not too much of an inconvenience. There are guys on Tacomaworld that are going well over 50k miles without an issue. The increased performance, in my opinion, is well worth the hassle of rebuilding. I had a set of Bilstein shocks that I ran during my last rebuild and it was so weird how crappy they felt. I felt like the rear of my 4Runner was totally out of control just driving around.

I LOVED my Duratracs when I first got them, and they're the only tire I've had since I lifted it. Before I ran Toyo ATs and they were alright, but just not aggressive enough for what I wanted to do. I don't really know how many years/miles I have had these tires, but they've still got decent tread on them. In the rain they're great, snow they're great, ice they're great, sand they do alright. However, now that they're at about 30% tread (maybe?) they're pretty damn loud, not wearing very well, and are absolutely TRASH in mud/clay. BUT, they're D rated, and not too heavy, so they've got that going for them.

My mileage fluctuates so much it's not even funny. Around town, however, I consistently get high 14's to mid 15's. On the freeway, going the speed limit, I can get around 18 (as high as 19) but if there's a head wind, it quickly drops to 16. Anything over 70mph and it rapidly declines back to around 16 as well. I think the biggest factors to my fuel economy are the tire pressure I run on the road (38psi), the supercharger (engine's not working as hard to move the 4Runner, or something). and d rated tires that don't weigh all too much.

Once I get my 4Runner back up and running (should be done the 22nd) I'd be willing to meet up with you and take you for a spin so you can judge for yourself.

For what it's worth, I think [MENTION=74071]Brilliant[/MENTION] has the ideal 4Runner setup. Mine is WAY overbuilt for my needs so it's HEAVY. I bet his rides like a dream in comparison.
 
Howdy Alex,

Thank you for the thorough reply. I was partial to the icon's because of a deal on the stage 2's I got turned on to in another thread. Seems like a really good deal for the price point considering what Id pay for the toytec BOSS setup, and how those aren't really true coilovers. Ill try and run some more numbers later to see how the fox and king options compare price wise, but I think the Icon's are going to come out on top.

As for tires and wheels, that is an area I think I need to do more research in still. There seems to be so many factors that affect acceleration, braking, handling, rubbing, and fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, asking question about tires and wheels and rubbing seems to be taboo on this forum, lol. I'll continue to make good use of the search function.

Id definitely take you up on checking out the ride quality. Good luck with your fix.
 
Howdy Alex,

Thank you for the thorough reply. I was partial to the icon's because of a deal on the stage 2's I got turned on to in another thread. Seems like a really good deal for the price point considering what Id pay for the toytec BOSS setup, and how those aren't really true coilovers. Ill try and run some more numbers later to see how the fox and king options compare price wise, but I think the Icon's are going to come out on top.

As for tires and wheels, that is an area I think I need to do more research in still. There seems to be so many factors that affect acceleration, braking, handling, rubbing, and fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, asking question about tires and wheels and rubbing seems to be taboo on this forum, lol. I'll continue to make good use of the search function.

Id definitely take you up on checking out the ride quality. Good luck with your fix.

The questions we don't like are "bruh I got me a 4Runner 2wd can i fit 33's and some wheels stock or do i need lift or something. got $500 to spend dont need anything expensive. plz help, looking to do this tomorrow am."

Alex, with that said about your Duratracs what are you looking at for your next set of tires?
 
Howdy Alex,

Thank you for the thorough reply. I was partial to the icon's because of a deal on the stage 2's I got turned on to in another thread. Seems like a really good deal for the price point considering what Id pay for the toytec BOSS setup, and how those aren't really true coilovers. Ill try and run some more numbers later to see how the fox and king options compare price wise, but I think the Icon's are going to come out on top.

As for tires and wheels, that is an area I think I need to do more research in still. There seems to be so many factors that affect acceleration, braking, handling, rubbing, and fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, asking question about tires and wheels and rubbing seems to be taboo on this forum, lol. I'll continue to make good use of the search function.

Id definitely take you up on checking out the ride quality. Good luck with your fix.

Yeah, there are a couple places that offer just INSANE deals on Icon. Hard to go wrong with such a quality product at so low a price point.

Rubbing is such a strange issue... I ran 265/75R16s for a long time on stock suspension without any rubbing, ever. Some folks say they run with the same tires and a lift. Makes no sense to me, but whatever.

For what it's worth, my first suspension was the first run of Boss coilovers. Nope.

The questions we don't like are "bruh I got me a 4Runner 2wd can i fit 33's and some wheels stock or do i need lift or something. got $500 to spend dont need anything expensive. plz help, looking to do this tomorrow am."

Alex, with that said about your Duratracs what are you looking at for your next set of tires?

Probably the ST Max, Pro, or KO2 in a 255 flavor. Still largely undecided.
 
Probably the ST Max, Pro, or KO2 in a 255 flavor. Still largely undecided.

I plan on ST Maxx in a 225/80/17. I would like more grip on just regular pavement and my M/Ts lack that. Waiting until discount tire direct does their 100 off 400 sale again. Set of 4 for $600 is hard to beat.
 
The ride quality. Anyone that tells you that their lifted 4Runner rides "like a cadillac" or "on clouds" is full of crap.

Oh man I got your reply email notification and was cracking up at this line. So true, I ran a ton of set ups with my 4Runner and it definitely never rode like a Cadillac. Even running stock tires with my lift it still rode nothing like a caddy.

Glad to see the rig is being put back together. I agree about overbuilding the rig. That's what happened to me with my 2000. It looked sweet and could take me anywhere but really wasn't necessary for the amount of wheeling I did. All that weight and gear got taxing, that's why I made the jump to the Tundra (also more space in the Tundra). Felt like every weekend I was fiddling with something or planning my next mod/maintenance. I must say though your rig is looking great these days and super clean for being so built. Keep up the good work!
 
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