Renton4runner
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If you guys were doing your builds over, what parts would you not have overbuilt so much?
A.Wilson013's Build Thread
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My lift. STRAIGHT UP MY LIFT. Rather then going on budget lift. Which I went with bilstein all around. I regret it. Because it sucks on the road. Idc what anyone says. I wish I would have went with fox, King, icon. Prefer icon because it is more towards OEM ride quality with performance.
So I'm planning on buying ICON 2.5 remote resi CDC front and rear. Yea it's expensive. But life is to short and I wanna enjoy it
A.Wilson013
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At the point in their life that my Duratracs are at I have been very displeased with their performance. Still great on the road (other than how loud they are now), but for the amount of tread they still have, they've begun to SUCK offroad.
I'll probably end up buying [MENTION=82154]GSPRunner[/MENTION]s tires if/when he decides he needs new ones. I don't think he has ever run a tire for more than 3000 miles.
Yeahhhh no. That'll never happen. Even with 285/70R17s I think my 4Runner looks like a puppy with a little body and big ol' paws.
Indeed. My expectations were SOOO high for my suspension that I was a little disappointed at first. However, now with the CDC valving I am very, very pleased. Setting the shocks to the "soft" setting I can skip airing down for the comfort factor. I like that =p
Yeah, I am actually going to start the tear down today... I had that guy lined up to do the work but after getting hosed on shipping, the heads won't be in until Wednesday. His intent was to do it today, but he obviously cannot without parts. Today was his last free day for a couple weeks at least, and I cannot wait that long. SOOOO I'll be taking everything apart throughout the week (and maybe doing the timing belt if I can figure it out) and Saturday morning my buddy will be coming over to wrap it all up. It'll save me quite a bit of coin, and get me up and running faster.
What has taken the biggest toll on my 4Runner is how heavy it is. All loaded up for trips I am very, very close to 6000lbs. Like 5950lbs.
So what I would change... Aluminum skids, factory front bumper w/ hidden winch setup, 265/75R16 tires (so a spare would fit in the factory location, weigh less, be available in a C rating, and have more sidewall), factory rear bumper. If I were brave, I would add a JDM rear hatch and swing out. (You may notice this is starting to sound very, very similar to [MENTION=74071]Brilliant[/MENTION] 's setup)
Then I would get a divorce, and wait for my dogs to pass away to save another 200lbs or so, and clear up cargo space (not to mention the added weight of clothing, food, water, etc).**
I made this, almost, exact transition. Ran the BOSS coil overs and LOVED them until I decided to try and maintain decent speed on a forest service road. Hit some washboards and nearly bounced off of the road (and I was aired down to ~20psi).
**obviously this part is a joke
Renton4runner
New member
Howdy Alex,
I have factory chrome bumpers in perfect shape if you want to trade
I have factory chrome bumpers in perfect shape if you want to trade
A.Wilson013
New member
Heads and Timing Belt (Part 1)
Well, I decided today would be the day to get the ball rolling on this. My goal was to get the radiator out, timing belt ready for removal, intake manifold off, and valve covers removed. I don't have the needed tool(s) to remove the crank pulley, so that'll have to wait until tomorrow. Other than that, made pretty good progress. Not bad for about 3-4 hours of work (at a snails pace).
Tomorrow I want to get the exhaust manifolds separated, crank pulley off, water pump removed, and new water pump installed.
Well, I decided today would be the day to get the ball rolling on this. My goal was to get the radiator out, timing belt ready for removal, intake manifold off, and valve covers removed. I don't have the needed tool(s) to remove the crank pulley, so that'll have to wait until tomorrow. Other than that, made pretty good progress. Not bad for about 3-4 hours of work (at a snails pace).
Tomorrow I want to get the exhaust manifolds separated, crank pulley off, water pump removed, and new water pump installed.
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A.Wilson013
New member
I like them a lot. Totally not necessary, but awesome to have to adjust the ride for different situations. Very fast and easy.
The rear is where they really shine. Since the sprung weight on my rear axle changes so much (tent on, tent off, wife and dogs loaded or not, etc.) it's awesome to be able to dial it in where I need it.
Thanks. I'm planning on all for CDC with 650lbs upfront. I have bumpers.
What could you have upfront.
A.Wilson013
New member
I have the 650lb springs as well, but they're getting their asses kicked by my bumper and winch. All sorts of preload just to get a little under 2.5" of lift.
Really.? Icon offers 700lbs but I don't think 50lbs difference is that big. Vs the 650lbs.
To my knowledge the icon 2.5 CDC you can get 3.5 ".
Running superflex in back is like to be at 3" or 2.75 in front.
Any suggestions?
A.Wilson013
New member
One thing to note is that the 700lb Icon springs are also 14" tall, whereas the 650lb springs are 13" tall. You'll have considerably less preload with the 700lb springs than with the 650lb. It doesn't really matter, but it sure looks better not having your coilovers cranked so far.
As for the 50lb difference... It's quite large. I ran the 700lb springs on my old coilovers (Icon as well) and it rode quite a bit stiffer, and I only had like 1.25" of preload to achieve a 3" lift.
With the superflex in the rear a 3" lift up front would be perfect. That said, if you decide to go with 700lb springs, I'd suggest getting them valved a bit softer to be able to achieve a nicer ride on the stiffer springs. I plan to, eventually, go back to the 700lb springs on these coilovers.
You think there will a lot of preload on 650 lbs coil? To achieve 3" lift in front ?
Is preload bad ?
You say ask them to valve it softer for 700. To what do you compare it to ? Wouldn't the "CDC" be the option in making 700 softer ?
My superflex for is the 3.75" version.
A.Wilson013
New member
That depends- which front bumper do you have? Will you be getting a winch? I have like 3" of preload on my 650lb springs.
Is preload bad? No, not until you're compressing the springs so far that the coils begin contacting one another when compressed. Mine aren't yet, but I think they're getting pretty close.
For valving, hit up the guys @Totalautomotive_lv they can surely square you away. CDC will also work, but instead of running at 2-3 all the time to get a comfortable ride and only have 2-3 softer settings, you could have your "comfy" setting at 5, and have 4 settings softer, and 5 harder, or whatever.
For what it's worth, mine are not custom valved and 4 is the "off the shelf" setting. I run my fronts at 5 for daily driving, and rears at 6. If I were to go with 700lb springs I'd likely be running at 3 or 4 up front.
I have savage bumper in front.
I do plan to run a winch in future.
Pretty sure ICON makes specific for that vehicle. Expect they are performance. So theoretically it should be valved at its best for that vehicle depending on the spring rate. CDC has 10 also I believe.
So your saying get the 700lbs valved as the 650lbs would feel from shelf.
I do plan to run a winch in future.
Pretty sure ICON makes specific for that vehicle. Expect they are performance. So theoretically it should be valved at its best for that vehicle depending on the spring rate. CDC has 10 also I believe.
So your saying get the 700lbs valved as the 650lbs would feel from shelf.
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A.Wilson013
New member
I apologize, but I have no idea what you're trying to say throughout the majority of the bolded paragraph.
Yes, the CDC does have 10 settings: S,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,H. The point I was trying to make was that if you run setting 3 to get a comfortable ride on the road, you only have 2 softer settings, and 7 harder settings. In my opinion, it'd be more desirable to have them valved so that 5 or 6 was your comfortable setting for daily driving, which would allow you more room to adjust up and down.
I am saying that if you're planning to run a bumper and winch, the 700lb springs would be a solid option. I'd let Icon or whoever you order the suspension from know how much the bumper and winch weigh, let them know you want 700lb springs (if you do) and ask them to valve them accordingly.
I'm sorry. Having one hand due to wrist surgery sucks.
What I saying... Through my research. ICON makes their suspension tuned to vehicle specific. Meaning when you other 3rd gen 4Runner coils they are specifically tuned for 4Runner. And if you have 1st gen Tacoma , then the coils , are tuned for Tacoma. And through my research , they do this so you have the best quality ride. But also get the best performance and able to abuse that product. So I would assume that wether you get 650lbs or 700lbs. I would think it would be tuned or valved to perfection almost.
Im gonna try to find out how many settings your left for soft or hard with the 700lbs.
What I saying... Through my research. ICON makes their suspension tuned to vehicle specific. Meaning when you other 3rd gen 4Runner coils they are specifically tuned for 4Runner. And if you have 1st gen Tacoma , then the coils , are tuned for Tacoma. And through my research , they do this so you have the best quality ride. But also get the best performance and able to abuse that product. So I would assume that wether you get 650lbs or 700lbs. I would think it would be tuned or valved to perfection almost.
Im gonna try to find out how many settings your left for soft or hard with the 700lbs.
A.Wilson013
New member
Correct, they valve them for a STOCK 4Runner or a STOCK Tacoma. Add a few hundred pounds of bumpers, skids, overweight lady friends, etc and they're no longer, "perfect".
You'll still be left with 10 settings, regardless of which springs you use. The valving will just decide how many of those are softer settings, and how many are harder.
Got of the phone with icon. He said get the 700lbs only when you get a winch. Otherwise it will ride like shit. He confirmed that they are indeed 1" taller then the 650. He said if you have 700 you shouldn't loose your cdc settings because the weight will compensate it. I forgot to ask if however they can valve the shocks with 700 springs equal to 650
Update : Todd at icon said if you order it with 650lbs the factory setting of shelf is on 4. So you have 3 settings left for softnes and 6 for stiffness. The same goes for 700lbs.
I would assume they would have it on 5 or so. If the shelf.
Update : Todd at icon said if you order it with 650lbs the factory setting of shelf is on 4. So you have 3 settings left for softnes and 6 for stiffness. The same goes for 700lbs.
I would assume they would have it on 5 or so. If the shelf.
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A.Wilson013
New member
Heads and Timing Belt (Part 2)
It may not look like much, but here's today's progress:
I removed the AC compressor and bracket, power steering bracket, alternator and bracket, crank pulley, timing belt tensioner, the two idler bearings that the timing belt goes around, both cam sprockets, water pump, timing belt, heat shields on the exhaust manifolds, all the nuts on the PASSENGER side manifold, and all but one nut on the driver's side (I cannot get a socket onto it... Very irritating). Getting pretty barren in there.
The ol' 5VZ totally kicked my ass today as is made clear by the dried blood down both my forearms, busted knuckles, etc. Not sure how much time (or motivation) I'll have to work on it tomorrow, but I'd like to get the heads pulled off. Once they're off I'll spend an hour or two cleaning the block, then install the thermostat (JIGGLE DOWN, DAN) and water pump. For whatever reason my old thermostat had the jiggle valve at the 3 o' clock position. Wasn't expecting that.
Kinda funny... Doing this has made me realize how easy doing JUST the timing belt and water pump would be on this engine. I cannot believe I ran away from that job for so long.
Heads arrive in two days...
It may not look like much, but here's today's progress:
I removed the AC compressor and bracket, power steering bracket, alternator and bracket, crank pulley, timing belt tensioner, the two idler bearings that the timing belt goes around, both cam sprockets, water pump, timing belt, heat shields on the exhaust manifolds, all the nuts on the PASSENGER side manifold, and all but one nut on the driver's side (I cannot get a socket onto it... Very irritating). Getting pretty barren in there.
The ol' 5VZ totally kicked my ass today as is made clear by the dried blood down both my forearms, busted knuckles, etc. Not sure how much time (or motivation) I'll have to work on it tomorrow, but I'd like to get the heads pulled off. Once they're off I'll spend an hour or two cleaning the block, then install the thermostat (JIGGLE DOWN, DAN) and water pump. For whatever reason my old thermostat had the jiggle valve at the 3 o' clock position. Wasn't expecting that.
Kinda funny... Doing this has made me realize how easy doing JUST the timing belt and water pump would be on this engine. I cannot believe I ran away from that job for so long.
Heads arrive in two days...
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