aemravan's build thread - project TacoRunner
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I approve of this.
couldn't beat it for $9 from Home Depot and 5 minutes with a utility knife to cut out bottom haha
I was flipping through IG yesterday and saw one of the offroad shops I follow post up a picture of the LC200 rack next to the factory 4runner rack comparing how much beefier it is. It generated quite a few comments with interested folks asking about the swap and whether it was a quick upgrade, etc.
I chimed in and responded to a few folks since I have very fresh experience, gave a few heads up about geometry and cost and the amount of work. Not surprisingly had a few folks come back with " yea but you can't do this on the factory width control arms" so I ran them through what I did and got into a few discussions on bumpsteer..
I had multiple people tell me that big name shops have specifically told them that this swap will not work with factory control arm setup because of "geometry". huh....? This leads me to believe that there are shops out there pushing to sell LT kits along with the upgrade (maybe I just have no faith in this world lol) or there is just a gross misunderstanding from a lot of these shops when it comes to geometry and bump steer.
What was surprising is that shortly after these comments went up.. the original post was deleted and replaced by non-steeringrack related content and conversation.. Interesting.. lol.
I have a few guys swear up and down that the way for me to fix my bump steer is my going to a LT kit since it would lengthen the tie rod. The fact that the it would lengthen proportionally to the increase in control arm length seemed to be an impossible thought for them to process.. Anyhow.. just thought it was interesting since I have wondered what all these places are doing about bump steer on these rigs... which I am just about convinced at this point that it is nothing at all.. They either live with it on road and not bothered by it while rock crawling (which is my case) and maybe the guys doing desert runs with high speed suspension cycling not being impacted AS much as I'm seeing on road since the lack of traction on sand allows the tire to scrub without pulling much... who knows.. lol.
I think this may just confirm that I need to SAS this thing and not have to worry about any form of bump steer ever again
I chimed in and responded to a few folks since I have very fresh experience, gave a few heads up about geometry and cost and the amount of work. Not surprisingly had a few folks come back with " yea but you can't do this on the factory width control arms" so I ran them through what I did and got into a few discussions on bumpsteer..
I had multiple people tell me that big name shops have specifically told them that this swap will not work with factory control arm setup because of "geometry". huh....? This leads me to believe that there are shops out there pushing to sell LT kits along with the upgrade (maybe I just have no faith in this world lol) or there is just a gross misunderstanding from a lot of these shops when it comes to geometry and bump steer.
What was surprising is that shortly after these comments went up.. the original post was deleted and replaced by non-steeringrack related content and conversation.. Interesting.. lol.
I have a few guys swear up and down that the way for me to fix my bump steer is my going to a LT kit since it would lengthen the tie rod. The fact that the it would lengthen proportionally to the increase in control arm length seemed to be an impossible thought for them to process.. Anyhow.. just thought it was interesting since I have wondered what all these places are doing about bump steer on these rigs... which I am just about convinced at this point that it is nothing at all.. They either live with it on road and not bothered by it while rock crawling (which is my case) and maybe the guys doing desert runs with high speed suspension cycling not being impacted AS much as I'm seeing on road since the lack of traction on sand allows the tire to scrub without pulling much... who knows.. lol.
I think this may just confirm that I need to SAS this thing and not have to worry about any form of bump steer ever again
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I was flipping through IG yesterday and saw one of the offroad shops I follow post up a picture of the LC200 rack next to the factory 4runner rack comparing how much beefier it is. It generated quite a few comments with interested folks asking about the swap and whether it was a quick upgrade, etc.
I chimed in and responded to a few folks since I have very fresh experience, gave a few heads up about geometry and cost and the amount of work. Not surprisingly had a few folks come back with " yea but you can't do this on the factory width control arms" so I ran them through what I did and got into a few discussions on bumpsteer..
I had multiple people tell me that big name shops have specifically told them that this swap will not work with factory control arm setup because of "geometry". huh....? This leads me to believe that there are shops out there pushing to sell LT kits along with the upgrade (maybe I just have no faith in this world lol) or there is just a gross misunderstanding from a lot of these shops when it comes to geometry and bump steer.
What was surprising is that shortly after these comments went up.. the original post was deleted and replaced by non-steeringrack related content and conversation.. Interesting.. lol.
I have a few guys swear up and down that the way for me to fix my bump steer is my going to a LT kit since it would lengthen the tie rod. The fact that the it would lengthen proportionally to the increase in control arm length seemed to be an impossible thought for them to process.. Anyhow.. just thought it was interesting since I have wondered what all these places are doing about bump steer on these rigs... which I am just about convinced at this point that it is nothing at all.. They either live with it on road and not bothered by it while rock crawling (which is my case) and maybe the guys doing desert runs with high speed suspension cycling not being impacted AS much as I'm seeing on road since the lack of traction on sand allows the tire to scrub without pulling much... who knows.. lol.
I think this may just confirm that I need to SAS this thing and not have to worry about any form of bump steer ever again
I really should take an afternoon and measure my brother's bumpsteer compared to mine. That way we at least have some real world numbers to show for it. Brother's LT kit has a bit more travel than my LT kit but we should be able to plot out some curves to compare the two steering racks at different points in the travel.
yea..I was looking to do the same with mine.. the most accurate way I can thinkin of doing it is to remove the shock, get the rig of the ground, and cycle the suspension that way so the point of reference doesn't change since it seems that every time I jack it up the entire rig shifts left/right and front/back.
There is no question at all whatsoever that there is toe-in at droop because I can physically watch the tire turn in as it unloads, just a matter of plotting out some points on the graph for different shock travel positions vs toe-in distance..
I guess I could probably rig up a way to get a reference plane transposed using a laser from the ride-height position on the wheel up to the bumper/fender somewhere and use that to try and pull an angel measurement as it toes in but I wouldn't be able to do full bump anyhow with the shock still in place.
So… hear me out here… 5.7L Toyota v8….. I’m not saying it fits.. but I’m not saying it couldn’t… 380hp of Toyota goodness .. lol .. just saying …
https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/05/rsg-off-road-t40r-v8-sas-straight-axle-swap-5th-gen/
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https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/05/rsg-off-road-t40r-v8-sas-straight-axle-swap-5th-gen/
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4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
I made some 2 foot straight edges out of 1" aluminum angle and bolted them to the hubs.
My reference was string stretched front to back on jack stands.
All the measurements were damn close to Mason's CAD model numbers.
I even bought some Coachbuilder OTEs, and they helped, but only .75 to 1" throught the travel.
Maybe I could've been flawed in my process, but it was too much of a coincidence to be that close to a CAD model.
The last 3-4" of droop, you could physically see the hubs go pidgeon toed, without even measuring.
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it's definitely not a coincidence.. the geometry isn't rocket surgery so as long as you have the suspension pickup point relatively close to where they really are the calculated numbers should be just about spot on.
Even with my stock length arms I can watch my wheel pigeon-toe in if I jack up the front end and let them droop out all the way.
phatcheeks
New member
Do it!
I mean I am seriously considering this... lol. Biggest complication is that I would need a dedicated shop/space to do this with a lift. There's no way I'm doing this in the driveway lol..
I already looked at some Tundras on Copart under the NonRebuildable options and theres quite a few options that I think could be had for a decent price. Would be one hell of a build!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Could get equal to that power or more with about 2k in a supercharger setup for the 4.7L.
800 for a used refurbished eaton M90 from a 90s mustang, plus 1k in piggyback tuner from URD and upgrade injectors and fuel pump from URD. Machine the stock aluminum intake manifold flat and weld on an adapter plate for the blower.
Add headers and exhaust for a bit more power.
I've thought about it but would do it first to my 4.7 mini tundra and see how it goes before attempting on my 4Runner.
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Thats certainly an option for a power add for sure. However, then you're talking about taxing the factory internals quite a bit vs having 1L additional displacement and 100% stock power and torque adder
. Not to mention.. you could also throw a blower on to the 5.7l for even more gains :rofl:Now obviously I don't NEED either of the options lol, just thought it could be a viable motor swap, albeit with a ton of custom work..
Maybe I just need to pick up a 1st gen taco and turn it into a Tacundra with an SAS instead of making plans to transform the current setup even further from what it has already become.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Thats certainly an option for a power add for sure. However, then you're talking about taxing the factory internals quite a bit vs having 1L additional displacement and 100% stock power and torque adder
Now obviously I don't NEED either of the options lol, just thought it could be a viable motor swap, albeit with a ton of custom work..
Maybe I just need to pick up a 1st gen taco and turn it into a Tacundra with an SAS instead of making plans to transform the current setup even further from what it has already become.
If you want reliability I don't know if transplanting and entire computer system is any better than adding a blower. But yeah over time my Tundra with 220k might not last long with another 100hp.
If the motor blew it would be cheaper to buy another Tundra as I bought it for only 3k and that's how much a used motor is.
Then again it could still make it to 1 million or even half that would be great.
Very solid point indeed. I was strictly looking at it from a mechanical standpoint of a 100% stock motor meant to putt around with a trailer and more weight than I currently have while being covered under warranty vs trying to squeeze an extra 150+ hp from a motor that was not originally designed for forced induction. Good chance it'll all be fine as long as you are mindful with the skinny pedal and a good tune lol.
But yea, the rest of the swap as it pertains to the electronics is probably the a realistic reason why I would probably elect not to do this.. at least not on the current rig.
With that said... do tell more on this about this eaton m90 Frankenstein! You've got my attention! I certainly wouldn't mind a blown v8, but of course I would be looking at doing some long tube headers for it at that point as well so the budget would be slightly elevated, but still sounds pretty damn reasonable. I'll seriously need to look into the details of this.. like throttle body, its rear facing, right? belt/pulley setup, adapter plate, etc. Sounds like a pretty cool project for a reasonable cost vs the gains you'd end up with in HP and sound
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I can't seem to find the info online for it yet, but I remember that Jason Burtman guy working on a kit that never eventually took off.
I believe the theory was machining off the top half of the intake manifold and welding on an aluminum plate that had the bolt pattern for the supercharger.
For URD's supercharger kit, they say 5.5 lbs of boost gave 100hp and 100tq. Which then puts the 4.7 at the same hp and slightly more tq than the stock 5.7.
So one would only need 4-5 lbs of boost and headers to get pretty massive performance gains.
00-04 Toyota Tundra Sequoia 4.7L 2UZ-FE Air Intake Manifold Assembly | eBay
I was browsing and looking at the same stuff just now, not a bad deal for the intake assembly to R&D some stuff on at $160.. Intake Manifold V8 Gas OEM 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Land Cruiser | eBay
Machining down the manifold and welding in an adapter plate of sorts sounds pretty straightforward, I would be more concerned about figuring out the belt drive setup and coming up with a tension pulley to throw in to drive the blower. But yea... 4-5lbs of boost would be pretty sweet for sure.
Here’s an idea, instead of looking at supercharges and motor swaps.. I should probably quit being an idiot and torque suspension bolts and check them to make sure you don’t repeat some road failures, you big moron you.
Have been having a bit of some interesting suspension offloading pop I kept hearing that I could track down... in the process of checking torque on the front spacers after 50 miles I just happened to notice that both of the bolts to the lower balljoint bracket on the passenger side were about half way backed out. Broken visual marker and all obviously... probably quite some time ago.
Talk about a timely damn catch. That would have been fun trip down memory lane once the bolts came all the way out. Time to go back through and doublecheck everything I have touched. Stay safe everyone.
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Have been having a bit of some interesting suspension offloading pop I kept hearing that I could track down... in the process of checking torque on the front spacers after 50 miles I just happened to notice that both of the bolts to the lower balljoint bracket on the passenger side were about half way backed out. Broken visual marker and all obviously... probably quite some time ago.
Talk about a timely damn catch. That would have been fun trip down memory lane once the bolts came all the way out. Time to go back through and doublecheck everything I have touched. Stay safe everyone.
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I've been lucky with just tightening the snot out of those bolts with a 18" breaker bar.
The head is big enough you might be able to drill a thin hole through and wire tie it to the ball joint 'cradle'. Might be hard to drill through.
