Anyone actually wheel with wheel spaces???

[Lmteel]

Im thinking that I want some wheel spacers on the 4Runner. Not just for an improved stance but with stock SR5 wheels I rub the UCA when turning. Does anyone here run wheel spacers, and if so do you do any wheeling? I know this has been beat like a dead horse but we've all heard the horror stories about spacers.

 

[marshal]

If you've heard a horror story, it's from some dumb mother ****er that either didn't install them right or bought shitty ones

I am SO GOD DAMN SICK of the mis-information on this topic.

SPACERS ARE FINE. EVERY DUALLY PICKUP ON THE ROAD HAS A FACTORY INSTALLED 6" SPACER.

Here is me wheeling the shit out of my truck with spidertrax spacers.

 

[Lmteel]

I think that picture says it all. I found some rugged ridge spacers for $100 a set, billet aluminum and all. Rugged ridge is pretty big with the jeep crowd I used to roll with before going to toyotas. You think their any good or stick with spidertrax?

Any more pictures of your rig doing crazy shit like that?

 

[marshal]

Don't buy rugged ridge, the only crowd of jeep owners they they're popular with is retards.

Buy spidertrax and only spidertrax.

The other side of the scenario, obviously I slipped off the ledge

 

[Bevo]

The other side of the scenario, obviously I slipped off the ledge

Look at the trouble your spacers of death got you into. You could have been killed.

 

[Lmteel]

Good to know. I think wheel spacers is the route I'm going instead of new wheels. More cost effective, especially when you have a budget nazi for a wife!

 

[DAGNABIT]

I think that picture says it all. I found some rugged ridge spacers for $100 a set, billet aluminum and all. Rugged ridge is pretty big with the jeep crowd I used to roll with before going to toyotas. You think their any good or stick with spidertrax?

Any more pictures of your rig doing crazy shit like that?

I am a Jeeper.... I would never put anything RR on my rig. as far a wheeling... WEROC rigs hop off of boulders with Marlin and Spidertrax spacers/adapters.... good enough for me

 

[marshal]

Good to know. I think wheel spacers is the route I'm going instead of new wheels. More cost effective, especially when you have a budget nazi for a wife!

here is your install guide. do it this way and no other.

first step is to go get 2 small tubes or one big tube of permatex or locktite brand RED. DO NOT USE BLUE.

remove the wheel. make sure there are no retention clips on the disk/hub mounting service. if there are, remove them. make sure the studs are clean. LIBERALLY coat the entire threaded stud surface with red locktite. seriously, coat the **** out of them.

install the spacers. add more red locktite to the inside of the acorn lug nut. tighten them to 83-lbs and remount the wheel.

in 1000 miles check to make sure the lug nuts holding your wheel on are still tight

forget it.



IF, READ IF - you take the wheel off to 'check' the tightness of the lugs on the spacer - be aware that you're a dumbass because you used a shit ton of red locktite.

 

[Lmteel]

That seems like a pretty easy install. But ill take your word on the **** ton of red locktite. Im sure all would go well with spacers if they can't wiggle out

 

[Jetboy]

here is your install guide. do it this way and no other.

first step is to go get 2 small tubes or one big tube of permatex or locktite brand RED. DO NOT USE BLUE.

remove the wheel. make sure there are no retention clips on the disk/hub mounting service. if there are, remove them. make sure the studs are clean. LIBERALLY coat the entire threaded stud surface with red locktite. seriously, coat the **** out of them.

install the spacers. add more red locktite to the inside of the acorn lug nut. tighten them to 100ft-lbs and remount the wheel.

in 1000 miles check to make sure the lug nuts holding your wheel on are still tight

forget it.



IF, READ IF - you take the wheel off to 'check' the tightness of the lugs on the spacer - be aware that you're a dumbass because you used a shit ton of red locktite.

IMO - this is bad advice.

Here's why. You cannot check the torque again as the red loctite is likely stronger than 100 ft lbs. Aluminum may have some compression initially and the studs have some elasticity. If something gets loose you won't know it until you shear your studs.

I would not use loctite ever on studs. Torque them properly - dry. Check them periodically.

 

[CraigRoberts]

Spidertrax recommends using loctite.

(I use blue...)

 

[carlomagne]

If you've heard a horror story, it's from some dumb mother ****er that either didn't install them right or bought shitty ones

I am SO GOD DAMN SICK of the mis-information on this topic.

Hahahah couldn't have said it better myself.

 

[Jetboy]

They also anodize them - making them worse functionally but look pretty. Would you trust someone who thinks putting a lubricating layer between the spacer and WMS and spacer and wheel surface is a good idea?

 

[carlomagne]

This pic just feels appropriate for this thread and some of the responses.

 

[CraigRoberts]

For corrosion resistance...

 

[DEERUNNER]

From two whole days ago:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203265-wheel-spacers-safe.html

 

[BlackWorksInc]

They also anodize them - making them worse functionally but look pretty. Would you trust someone who thinks putting a lubricating layer between the spacer and WMS and spacer and wheel surface is a good idea?

This is true, but you do get some corrosion between dissimilar metals; I imagine that the "pretty" anodizing helps deter that to an extent. I'm not sure I would use loctite on a wheel stud myself, let alone the red stuff; if anything I would use the weaker blue because it can be disassembled without heat/excessive torque as you pointed out earlier.

SpiderTraxx builds spacers, hubs, and other components for racing, crawling, ect. vehicles that compete in highly public venues. I highly doubt they'd purposefully design something to be weaker when they have possibly millions of dollars in customers who rely on, and brandish their product with confidence that could easily dissuaded by a poor product.

 

[marshal]

IMO - this is bad advice.

Here's why. You cannot check the torque again as the red loctite is likely stronger than 100 ft lbs. Aluminum may have some compression initially and the studs have some elasticity. If something gets loose you won't know it until you shear your studs.

I would not use loctite ever on studs. Torque them properly - dry. Check them periodically.

Imo you questioning my advice is bad advise. The spacers are milled from billet ingots of heat hardened 7075-T6 aluminum. If it compresses or stresses, loctite is going to be the least of your concerns.

How do your already stretched grade 8 factory studs have elasticity within the range that you've already torqued them to?

 

[marshal]

This is true, but you do get some corrosion between dissimilar metals; I imagine that the "pretty" anodizing helps deter that to an extent. I'm not sure I would use loctite on a wheel stud myself, let alone the red stuff; if anything I would use the weaker blue because it can be disassembled without heat/excessive torque as you pointed out earlier.

SpiderTraxx builds spacers, hubs, and other components for racing, crawling, ect. vehicles that compete in highly public venues. I highly doubt they'd purposefully design something to be weaker when they have possibly millions of dollars in customers who rely on, and brandish their product with confidence that could easily dissuaded by a poor product.

Spidertrax ship with red permatex.

 

[Dirty Brigade]

Spidertrax for the win.