Bare with me...please, but really

Fwiw, I made my own body lift and did not have any issues. The toughest part was extending my steering shaft.

my kit only cost me the long bolts and welding wire...

BL are cheap enough though. Buy one and save time and time.
 
Singtoe said:
Fwiw, I made my own body lift and did not have any issues. The toughest part was extending my steering shaft.

my kit only cost me the long bolts and welding wire...

BL are cheap enough though. Buy one and save time and time.
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What are you doing awake old man??? Go to sleep!!!!

LMFAO.

Sorry Sing. You left your self open to that.

[MENTION=64583]JPB[/MENTION]:

Your best bet to find out how much tubing you need is to fabricate something up with something cheap. When I fabed up an idea for my bumpers, I used FoamBoard.

img1223w.jpg


img1222k.jpg



I would suggest going to Michaels or some other craft store and seeing if you can get some Cardboard tubes or some styrofoam. That way, you can figure out how much you need, cut the tube to length, and not have to worry about messing up the metal you get when you finally get around to making the bumper.
 
JPB said:
Ironically enough, yours truly turned down more than one division one hockey scholarships to go to school with the now ex girlfriend in the GREAT state of Oklahoma:redbrick:
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Thats gotta be depresssing. lol Well look at the bright side, you have a 4runner!!

PICS MAN PICS!!
 
i have made a few body lifts from a "log/rod" of a special plastic' really more trouble then its worth tho. only saved like $50.
 
JPB said:
I'm more interested in pricing on just the tubing no matter where it is especially in Oklahoma... I just need some numbers to figure out how much i need to plan to try and make...
Click to expand...

I paid $70-$80 for 40ft of 1¾" .120 HREW round tube.
 
Doc2012 said:
WHERE MAN?!?!?!?!?! I could sure use some of that stuff....
Click to expand...

There's a large machine shop outside of Opelika that I buy from. Their work is ridiculously expensive but they give me good prices on stock as long as I wait until they get a full order together.
 
DOC, you know that you can get any size steel tubing, c Chanel and plate steel at Dillion supply in Raleigh.

They are located were 64 merges onto I440.


Only bad thing is that you have to buy in 20ft lengths and have to cut it in the parking lot to get it home.
 
This I did not know.

I'll have to give them a call and see what the prices are from there.

Thanks Sing.
 
Singtoe said:
DOC, you know that you can get any size steel tubing, c Chanel and plate steel at Dillion supply in Raleigh.

They are located were 64 merges onto I440.


Only bad thing is that you have to buy in 20ft lengths and have to cut it in the parking lot to get it home.
Click to expand...

They wont cut it for you for a small fee?
 
IMHO, the rear bumper is the easiest to work on/fab up.
The fact that the body is pretty much attached to the frame, and the lines are easiest to follow without having to figure out how much you need to go up or anything like that. Plus, you don't have to worry about keeping it really clean looking, seeing as how everything is kinda hidden behind the body.

Up to you though. I know that I NEED to get a rear bumper before I get a front.

I miss my damn hitch.... :(
 
First off, make sure you have between 5/8" and 3/4" between any part of the bumper and the body. The 4Runner body mounts allow for some flex of the body in relationship with the frame. If you go closer you risk bumper hitting body. Also, applies to sliders too. If you do the bumper and then the body lift the gap will grow from the dimensions I already stated by 1" as the entire body moves up. You want to do the body lift before you do anything that attaches to the frame unless you make provisions to raise the bumper later to match the newly lifted body. I also looked to make my own body lift out by ordering the UHMW plastic from ebay and buying an extra saw blade for my miter saw. It just didn't save enough to make it worth my while so I ordered from 4crawler. Easy installation, but the steering rag joint is a pain.
 
JPB said:
What happens if i put it on and want to eventually get the BL ?
Click to expand...

You'll need to redo the bumper.

How much are you spending on steel?

My guess is with the amount of tubing you're going to buy, you can get damn close to, if not purchase, a body lift from 4Crawler.

Honestly. SAVE your money. Trust me. I know the itch. But some times it's better to ignore it, rather than scratch it.

Scratching it might make it feel good for the moment, but then you realize that you royally messed up. I did last week making a box for my subs. Thought I had it all planed out.

Then, talking to someone who had a similar idea, we decided to run it a completely different way, and ii now have to start all over.

Sometimes you just need to let it irritate you for a little while.

Cause when you do get to scratch it, it's the best feeling in the world.
 
i think its best to avoid the BL altogether.

unless you're making room for an engine swap..stick to the suspension.
 
Doc2012 said:
Explain.

If like to hear your reasoning.
Click to expand...

unless its for an engine swap, they serve no functional purpose, other than make room for a larger tire.

they generally cause more problems then theyre worth. and, a rig with a body lift looks terrible.

i say do it correctly, and just deal with suspension. where you will actually get a performance gain.
 
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