Berty's OEM+ Build Thread

[46runner]

thanks for the shout out! and thanks for the tips!

Flushed my transmission fluid today. A few notes I'd like to memorialize.

I used this DIY by <!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention --> @46runner <!-- END TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention -->. Its very thorough and walked me through the process in just the right amount of detail. ATF Exchange (using the cooling line). A few notes

• The DIY recommends using a milk jug. Get 2. I did this for two reasons: (1) Less mixing of old and new fluid, and (2) easier to match up amount of new fluid to pump in. I'm extra and bought these from McMaster McMaster-Carr
• After you drain the transmission fluid, inspect the fluid. Do two things: (1) smell the fluid and make sure it doesn't smell burnt, and (2) pour some on a white piece of paper and make sure you don't see any metal flakes. My transmission had 163k on OEM fluid and did not exhibit either of these characteristics.
• Its mentioned in the DIY, but make sure you have a short 24mm socket. You won't be able to get a ratchet on the end of a deep socket.
• I bought 14 quarts of ATF WS and used 13. The DIY suggests flushing 12 quarts and adding 12.5 quarts. However, in the DIY at the final fluid level check, nothing comes out of the overflow plug. I flushed 12.5 and added 13 quarts. Fluid did come out at the final fluid level check.
• You'll notice the fluid you are flushing out becomes significantly more red at the end of your flush.

 

[Berty_K]

After 11 Chicago winters and 165k miles on the odometer, my exhaust has finally rotted out. I get a rattle when accelerating from a stop. I believe the outlet pipe from the muffler is partially sheared. Some Highheat JB Weld is currently temporarily holding things in place.

While a SS exhaust is tempting, I've decided to go with Walker components off Rockauto; price and mostly positive experiences on T4R informed this decision.

Once again [MENTION=113703]46runner[/MENTION]'s DIY here was a great reference.

I'll be dousing the exhaust spring bolts with liquid wrench for the next few days.

I'll be replacing everything past the muffler:

• Gasket: 31639
• Spring Bolts: 36454
• Muffler: 56177
• Muffler Hanger (x4): 35725
• Gasket: 31384
• Tail Pipe: 54611
• Tail Pipe Hanger: 35017

All in cost ~$210 +tax/shipping.

FSM Component Overview and Torque Specs

Walker Component Overview

After ~30k miles, the Walker Exhaust has significant rust. The tailpipe tip is completely covered in rust (more than surface rust) and the inside of the tail pipe resonator is starting to disintegrate. I knew I was taking a chance, but honestly expected the exhaust to last a bit longer. Buy nice or buy twice.

I got my hands on a new 5th gen muffler and tailpipe for cheap. PO had a TRD exhaust installed when he bought his car new. Interestingly, the tail pipe has no resonator. Curious to hear how the car will sound. Will share updates.

 

[Berty_K]

5th Gen Exhaust on a 4th Gen 4Runner

All done. Job took a bit longer than I expected because all the hardware was rusted and I had to break off the weldnuts mating the front and center exhaust components.

The 5th Gen Exhaust bolts DIRECTLY in without need for any modification. I remember reading somewhere someone needed to bend a hanger post-- I did not need to do this. Either there was a exhaust design change with earlier 5th Gen exhausts (unlikely) or the exhaust hanger was accidentally bent.

Initial reactions- the OEM exhaust is much quieter than the Walker system, particularly when idling at a stop light. My wife noticed it too, so it's not just wishful thinking on my end. There is also no resonator, but I couldn't notice a difference in sound. Mashed the pedal a few times to see if the exhaust would sound louder, but nope. Toyota quality always beats aftermarket by a long shot.

So... If you took me back 3 years, would I have bought a new Toyota exhaust? Absolutely. OEM prices are hard to justify. I picked up this exhaust for $225-- a bargain. BUT I also bought the Walker exhaust for about $250. For another few hundred, I would have had quality parts and not needed to spend a few hours playing with my exhaust again.

Buy nice or buy twice.

 

[4runrr]

I've really enjoyed reading through your mods and maintenance journey. Thanks for sharing with the community!

 

[Berty_K]

JBA Upper Control Arm Rebuild

Overhauled my JBA upper control arms today. Bushings and joints were completely fried at 75k. Both the ball joint and bushings were the original design. Two key issues with the old design:

1. Old ball joint had a poorly designed boot that left a gap right below the UCA arm. Dirt and grit accelerated wear. Passenger side ball joint had play much like a worn wheel bearing. JBA's newest boot fixes this problem.
2. Bushings would get "extruded" out from greasing due to them being press fit and wedged between UCA washers (see below). Bushings were completely mutilated coming off car. JBA's newest bushings have channels for grease, fixing the pressure issue.

Many tips on how to go about replacing a UCA, so won't rehash here. However, will share some JBA specific tips for anyone who needs to do the same.

• JBA uses a locknut instead of a castle nut for the ball joint. I was unable to completely remove either nut. The nut seizes towards the bottom of the ball joint. Needed to use an angle grinder to cut off both ball joints.
• Driver side: Remove the battery, 10mm harness clip, and brake line attachment (wheel well).
• Passenger side: Unbolt the AC hard line so you can push it out of the way. Also unbolt the brake line attachment (wheel well).
• Instructions don't mention loading the suspension before torquing the UCA bolts to 85ftlbs. You need to do this for the LCAs to keep the bushing from twisting and tearing early on. Perhaps not necessary given the UCA bushings are free to rotate, but I this anyway.