Best Dual Battery Setup for a 5th Gen 4Runner

Updates?

Any updates on the project? Specifically - I'm looking for photos on the ARB compressor install and where to purchase the brackets required.

Thanks!
 
ARB Air Compressor and Bandi bracket installed at last!

Hey guys and [MENTION=154999]CactusHugr[/MENTION], I finally was able to get the [MENTION=125603]bandi[/MENTION] ARB dual air bracket installed atop the Shockworks air pump relocation bracket. I had to file out 2 bolt holes to enlarge them on the bandi bracket to fit the Shrockworks bracket - the front leg lower hole had to be enlarged to the edge of the 90 degree vertical bend and the left fender wall bracket hole had to be enlarged vertically. I also had to slightly bend the front leg back toward the firewall. All-in-all, very easy to do with a bench vise. Do test fit the bracket before and tighten everything down without the ARB air compressor on to ensure a good fit, then remove it, mount the air compressor and re-install.

Any updates on the project? Specifically - I'm looking for photos on the ARB compressor install and where to purchase the brackets required.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks Dave... for your brothers (and any future mounts I will tighten up that front leg to match with Shrockworks bracket).... I guess Mike can test fit it when I send his... Thanks for the insight !
 
More pics of the set up...

I fabb'd a homemade bracket for the SPOD - still need to paint it and a bracket for the National Luna dual battery isolator and controller.
 

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Looks good, still a bit of work ahead of you? I don't see any connections to the AUX battery just yet?
 
Dual Battery

Cytronos, Don't forget to Fuse Both batteries at the battery post. Blue sea Makes a real nice space saving solution for this. They attach directly to the post and you order the fuse that you require. Your build is very clean and a lot Bigger than my humble Battery mod. Take a look at it in my album. keep us posted.
 
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I working on getting everything together to install dual batteries..

Can anyone help me identify the red lug covers in this photo being used on the Blue Sea 7622 ML-ACR..?

Thanks..

img_2665_bbacdd75-14fa-416e-a027-75ced1dfc105_1024x1024.jpg
 
Anyone Mount the 2nd Batter in the 4Runner?

Thanks to all for the continued great information - truly is a great community all around....

I would like to install a 2nd battery and was considering a National Luna Portable power pack. But over $500, plus the Battery, I'm not sure it's worth for what I would like to do - basically power a pressure pump for a wash down system I installed, the portable air compressor I have and auxil lights in the back.

Has anyone installed a solenoid and battery in the back of a 4runner? National Luna said there would be no problem with the solenoid and I'm guessing a sealed AGM battery would be safe.
 
Thanks to all for the continued great information - truly is a great community all around....

I would like to install a 2nd battery and was considering a National Luna Portable power pack. But over $500, plus the Battery, I'm not sure it's worth for what I would like to do - basically power a pressure pump for a wash down system I installed, the portable air compressor I have and auxil lights in the back.

Has anyone installed a solenoid and battery in the back of a 4runner? National Luna said there would be no problem with the solenoid and I'm guessing a sealed AGM battery would be safe.

I believe there have been a few. [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] put a second battery in the back seat area, for example.
 
My Portable 2nd Battery

I posted this on another thread - forgive the repeat. I put together a portable 2nd Battery using a Blue Sea ML-ACR, buss bar, switched fuses.

I ran 2 gauge wiring to the back of my T4R and use Anderson quick connects.

Got the Odyssey battery today and set it up with a power panel from Amazon.

Saved some cash over the NL PPP.

It works and I have to say the folks at Blue Sea were great with my questions.

Just wanted to share....
 

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Big progress on the install!!!

Special thanks to the huge hands-on help from [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and vital technical and materials input from [MENTION=144483]Bumbo[/MENTION], most of the dual battery project is completed! The car started right up and the National Luna Isolator did its thing - charged the main starter battery and then charged the Aux battery.

I learned a great deal through this project and really glad to have added knowledge on electrical/dual battery systems that I can share with others.

Most of the work was in calculating wire gauge based on run length, amperage, voltage drop compensation, run times, heat AND in calculating the ring terminal sizes and stud hole sizes for each wire based on where it would be connected. I used the BlueSea Circuit Wizard app on iOS for all calculations.

I went with high quality Temco welding cable with thick shielding that supports high temperatures (221 degrees F), a must when considering the 4Runner's engine bay sees up to 195 degrees F. Temco ring terminals are stout, all tin plated copper to prevent oxidation. Both the wiring and terminals were ordered from Temco in Fremont, CA. If you use these guys, it's cheaper to call in, give your list, and pick up locally in Fremont. If you can't make it to Fremont, go to eBay. Highly recommend their stuff and great service. Welding cable is HEAVY. I'd say I added about 15-20 lbs of wiring up front, including looming and terminations.

I used a heavy duty 16 ton hydraulic hexagonal die press I picked up on Amazon for crimping the 6 gauge and larger terminals to the stripped wire ends. The press literally fuses the individual copper strands and ring terminal together as one solid piece of metal, which makes for a safe termination that helps prevent terminal overheating and fire. This method is preferable and safer than soldering and standard crimping methods for larger gauge wiring with high amperage.

Progress made includes:
- Aux battery terminals installed. Military grade lead with 3/8" studs
- Aux battery wired to National Luna isolator/controller and the main starter battery. Controller wire installed through firewall.
- ARB dual air compressor wired to main starter battery.
- New wiring & 50 Amp short block for sPOD 8 channel accessory unit run from aux battery and Ethernet for LCD touch screen controller run through driver side firewall.
- sPOD bracket is in for powder coating and should be installed next week
- Drilled 5/16" hole and installed new 5/16" studs/flange nuts in each OEM starter battery terminal connector to accommodate isolator connections, air compressor.
-50 Amp Bussman circuit breaker installed on passenger side, under air compressor for future wiring that will run from Aux. battery to trailer hitch to charge 2 Lithium trailer batteries via Anderson plug (SB50).
-All wiring properly terminated with heat shrink tubing, loomed, taped every 20" with 3" wide high temp electrical tape.

Lessons learned:
-Quality tools including cutters and hydraulic crimpers a must.
-Helper a must for wiring routing and hydraulic crimping.
-Should've gone with different aux battery terminal connectors that had 5/16" studs on them, to match OEM stud size and make it easier to/faster to service batteries simultaneously with the same socket size. Also, the terminations I used don't have any clearance for sockets to fit around them so an open ended monkey wrench is needed, which sucks.
-Should've ordered more wire loom, that stuff goes fast. Sizes of loom diameter don't match wire diameter at all. You'll need slightly bigger loom.

Next up:
-Route wire for National Luna controller under center console and stick on under side of lid with double-sided sticky tape (this reads out both battery's charge and has a jump from Aux battery button on it)
-Install sPOD LCD touch screen in cabin and connect Ethernet cable for accessory control
-Install 270 Amp DC Power alternator, which will give the 4Runner an additional 105 Amps over the stock 165, and augmented wiring based on the awesome write up by [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] at "4Runner alternator upgrade (gen 5)".
-Install newly painted home made sPOD bracket and sPOD unit, connect wiring and begin installing accessories (bumper LED light bar and under hood light and more later)
-cut, strip, crimp terminals on new 6 AWG wiring to run from aux battery to circuit breaker to hitch and terminate with Anderson Plug to charge 2 camper trailer Lithium batteries
-Install trailer brake controller (likely in glove box)
-Install air lines and air tank for air compressor

More coming in a week or two!
 

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Design considerations:

-Aux battery: Odyssey 25-PC1400 (850 CCA, 65 Hrs at 20 Hr Capacity)
-Aux battery tray: Shrockworks with air pump relocator
-National Luna Isolator and battery controller
-Support all non-factory accessories via an auxiliary battery
-Ability to jump start from the auxiliary battery
-Support Warn Xeon Platinum 10-S Winch (311 to 465 Amps)
-Support ARB Dual Air Compressor (CKMTA12) with room for bracket
-Power sPOD Source SE with 8 channels for smaller sub-30 Amp accessories
-Support future accessories: Inverter, camper trailer anderson plug, upgraded sound system

Per National Luna, no fuses are to be installed between the isolator and batteries, to ensure the winch may consume high non-continuous amperage draws from the system. Per Warn, no fuse or circuit breaker is installed between the winch and battery.

Any issue with voiding warranty from Toyota ?:scared:
 
Warranty

That's a great question Slavic. I don't know the answer. Perhaps I should read through the warranty. I'm not worried about this system causing issues to the powertrain. If anything, having accessories run off an aux battery further reduces the risk of hooking up everything directly to the starter battery and potential for damage to the OEM system(s).

Any issue with voiding warranty from Toyota ?:scared:
 
50 Amp Circuit Breaker mounted to air pump relocation bracket (frame) - short threat?

Hey guys, I was thinking about the location of the 50 Amp circuit breaker I installed on the Shrockworks stainless steel air pump relocation bracket right behind the air box when it dawned on me that the positive wires which will run to and from that breaker, will by extension be connected to the bracket and thus the vehicle chassis (ground), to where other electrical items are grounded. I'm not an expert but wanted to pose the question here. Will this be a problem or cause risk of a short? Would love to get your thoughts.

The wiring for this breaker will run from the aux battery to the breaker, to an Anderson plug at the rear of the vehicle which will charge trailer batteries.
 

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[MENTION=81106]Cytronus[/MENTION]

Its a non issue, that part of the breaker is not conductive and isolated from the positive side.
 

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