Brake fluid/dash light situation/ fluid level

[FlaskTL]

A few weeks ago I experienced a situation where I started up the Yota and experienced my ABS light, parking brake light, and maintenance light up. The parking break light and ABS light would blink intermittently before going off for a bit but would then come back on......

So I researched and found that this is a sign for low break fluid.....so I popped the hood and my fluid level was barely above the MIN line.....again it was above not below. So I added some break fluid and the lights went off and I haven't had a problem again....but here is my concern.....

What caused the loss of break fluid?? I don't think its my pads being low as I looked and had a friend at a shop look. He thinks I easily have another 20k mikes before I need new pads. Currently have 35k miles. I havent found any fluid on my garage floor to signify a break fluid leak either.

2 days ago I checked my brake fluid level again....when I first added fluid I filled it to full and let the system cycle and it took it down below full. I called it good and shut the hood.....now its back all the way to mid way between Min and Max....which I know is acceptable, but where is the fluid going??

Your help is greatly appreciated and my concussed brain will thank you when I finally figure this out.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Well it will drop low when the pads are pretty worn, but that sounds a bit excessive to me...

 

[96r50]

Have you had any work done on the brake system at all? I'm with [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], that's too much fluid loss to just be pad wear.

 

[FlaskTL]

Have you had any work done on the brake system at all? I'm with [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], that's too much fluid loss to just be pad wear.

No I haven't touched the brakes at all. I had a rotate balance and alignment done this past Sunday and they said the brakes are good to go and shouldn't have to worry about new pads for another 20k miles. The pads and rotors are the original ones that were on the vehicle when purchased new.

This is really bothering me only because I can't figure out what caused this. I'm not panicked about it as the vehicle is stopping fine other than the nose dive that we all experience if we have to lock em up. All has been normal since I topped it off a few weeks ago...except for noticing how far the brake fluid has dropped.

Again...I can't find a leak anywhere either....am I missing something?

 

[philsey]

I suppose it's remotely possible that it's always been low - that's a stretch tho.

Have you had it on a lift to get a good look around underneath?

 

[96r50]

No I haven't touched the brakes at all. I had a rotate balance and alignment done this past Sunday and they said the brakes are good to go and shouldn't have to worry about new pads for another 20k miles. The pads and rotors are the original ones that were on the vehicle when purchased new.

This is really bothering me only because I can't figure out what caused this. I'm not panicked about it as the vehicle is stopping fine other than the nose dive that we all experience if we have to lock em up. All has been normal since I topped it off a few weeks ago...except for noticing how far the brake fluid has dropped.

Again...I can't find a leak anywhere either....am I missing something?

So if I understand this right a few weeks ago the lights came on and you filled the reservoir from Min to Max, and now (two days ago) it's significantly lower than Max again? I think you must be missing something somewhere. That volume of fluid doesn't just disappear, especially not that fast. Have you traced all the brake lines inch by inch to ensure there are no leaks, as well as looking around by the master cylinder and brake booster?

 

[Lester Lugnut]

One more question. Is the brake pedal spongy?

 

[FlaskTL]

So if I understand this right a few weeks ago the lights came on and you filled the reservoir from Min to Max, and now (two days ago) it's significantly lower than Max again? I think you must be missing something somewhere. That volume of fluid doesn't just disappear, especially not that fast. Have you traced all the brake lines inch by inch to ensure there are no leaks, as well as looking around by the master cylinder and brake booster?

No I haven't fully traced each line yet....thats my next step.

 

[FlaskTL]

One more question. Is the brake pedal spongy?

Its always been spongey per say....makes the noise that most of us all hear when we hit the break pedal but when i need it to stop and stop quick it does it every time and the vehicle stops very fast.

 

[1000MPH]

Is your ABS still working?

 

[FlaskTL]

Is your ABS still working?

Yeah its working.

I think I found the source of the problem. Crawled under the vehicle tonight since we haven't had rain in several days and the front driver's side caliper is covered in fluid. I thought brake line might be loose coming into the caliper so I grabbed an open end wrench and tried to tighten it up....it moved a hair and thats it.....so I think the caliper seal is the problem. I cleaned the whole thing off with break cleaner and I'm going to check it each day for the next few days to see if I can replicate the caliper being covered in fluid. Tried to upload pics with my phone but the site keeps kicking me out when I try to do that.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Yeah its working.

I think I found the source of the problem. Crawled under the vehicle tonight since we haven't had rain in several days and the front driver's side caliper is covered in fluid. I thought brake line might be loose coming into the caliper so I grabbed an open end wrench and tried to tighten it up....it moved a hair and thats it.....so I think the caliper seal is the problem. I cleaned the whole thing off with break cleaner and I'm going to check it each day for the next few days to see if I can replicate the caliper being covered in fluid. Tried to upload pics with my phone but the site keeps kicking me out when I try to do that.

So the brake line and bleeder screws are tight? Is the rotor covered in fluid and/or shows signs of overheating/slipping? I'm curious where it's leaking from. If you can get us some good pictures that'd be nice; I'd try to take a look when the wheel is off if you can.

 

[FlaskTL]

So the brake line and bleeder screws are tight? Is the rotor covered in fluid and/or shows signs of overheating/slipping? I'm curious where it's leaking from. If you can get us some good pictures that'd be nice; I'd try to take a look when the wheel is off if you can.

Here are the two photos that I was able to take last night rather quickly.

 

[FlaskTL]

So the brake line and bleeder screws are tight? Is the rotor covered in fluid and/or shows signs of overheating/slipping? I'm curious where it's leaking from. If you can get us some good pictures that'd be nice; I'd try to take a look when the wheel is off if you can.

Being quoted $455.18 for the driver front caliper....thats just the part.

A1 Cardone refab is $47 from CarID

Beck Arnley refab is $75 from Car ID.

Thoughts??

 

[96r50]

Being quoted $455.18 for the driver front caliper....thats just the part.

A1 Cardone refab is $47 from CarID

Beck Arnley refab is $75 from Car ID.

Thoughts??

Are you sure it's the caliper that's leaking? From the photos I'd guess the leak was more likely to be coming from the compression nut on the hardline.

 

[1000MPH]

At 35k miles wouldn't this repair be covered by your warranty?

 

[Boyds4Runner]

If it's actually the caliper like [MENTION=53327]1000MPH[/MENTION] asked it should be covered under warranty.

If you do end up replacing calipers on your own dime I would consider the actual factory replacement ones (after saving for a few months!).

I had calipers replaced on my 2004 SR5 around 178K miles. Passenger side brake line was kinked on the inside and seizing one of the two pistons due to fluid starvation.

Replacements were the Beck Arnley refurbished ones, they looked nice for about 2K miles and then both of the main bodies of the calipers started turning deep orange in rust. Not that it affected braking but I wasn't thrilled that the original factory ones never showed signs of rusting all the way up to 178K and the refurbished ones did so very quickly.

 

[FlaskTL]

Are you sure it's the caliper that's leaking? From the photos I'd guess the leak was more likely to be coming from the compression nut on the hardline.

I honestly don't know. I did tighten the nut on the hard line last night and it did move a bit when I tried to tighten it. I stood on the brakes this afternoon several times and crawled underneath to look and haven't seen any fluid nor could I feel any.

I think I am going to keep checking it every few days to see if it comes back. If not I will call it the hard line but if it continues I'm pulling the caliper and replacing it.

 

[FlaskTL]

At 35k miles wouldn't this repair be covered by your warranty?

Alas I thought I was at 35k....warranty ends at 36k and I just touched 37K.

 

[FlaskTL]

If it's actually the caliper like [MENTION=53327]1000MPH[/MENTION] asked it should be covered under warranty.

If you do end up replacing calipers on your own dime I would consider the actual factory replacement ones (after saving for a few months!).

I had calipers replaced on my 2004 SR5 around 178K miles. Passenger side brake line was kinked on the inside and seizing one of the two pistons due to fluid starvation.

Replacements were the Beck Arnley refurbished ones, they looked nice for about 2K miles and then both of the main bodies of the calipers started turning deep orange in rust. Not that it affected braking but I wasn't thrilled that the original factory ones never showed signs of rusting all the way up to 178K and the refurbished ones did so very quickly.

Thats really depressing to hear about your experience with the Beck Arnley...mainly because they are made right here in TN. I have to say that I don't really want to shell out the cash for the toyota brand...but if Brembo or Wilwood made some for the 4runner I know I would be running out and purchasing them....so whats the difference....might as well go factory. I'm not really excited about the thought of running a rebuilt caliper on vehicle with 37k on it.

I checked again this afternoon after getting under it yesterday and didn't find anything new...Again I was able to get the nut that holds the hardline in place to move a bit yesterday when trying to tighten it, but I just don't know if it was loose enough to cause this. It didn't move that much when I tightened it.

Going to keep an eye on it. More to come....Thanks for the input guys!