Brake lights constantly on?

thx. the issue is always happening! i actually did pull the 10A tail fuse, and also separately the 15 A IGN1 fuse. the tail fuse had no effect (brake lights and VSC/TRC lights on full time). btw, the VSC dash lights come on as part of the start up check. they go off for a moment, then reappear. the brake lights do not go off and then reappear.

pulled the IGN1 15A fuse, VSC lights go on as usual, then disappear as they should, and brake lights DO NOT go on. put in a new 15 A fuse, no difference.

Maybe something in the ignition switch?

Interesting.. so between the that fuse and the ignition switch is the suspect area.. There is an integration relay in between there I think someone mentioned earlier but that would cause other issues I believe. If I get stoned enough to get under there I'll go see what results you should be getting in a little bit. Sorry about the wait but that's why the dealer is going to rip you off!
 
Interesting.. so between the that fuse and the ignition switch is the suspect area.. There is an integration relay in between there I think someone mentioned earlier but that would cause other issues I believe. If I get stoned enough to get under there I'll go see what results you should be getting in a little bit. Sorry about the wait but that's why the dealer is going to rip you off!

just hit the road (sober) and you will be here in two days!
 
just hit the road (sober) and you will be here in two days!

It'd probably cost less in gas money and provisions to get there than the dealer will charge you to fix it! Plus I'd get a little road trip in maybe hit a national forest on the way back for some off road action! Just have a case of drink ready when I get there! But really I'll try to get on it tonight when I get a break from cooking my feast.
 
was too busy to stop at the dealer today. did unclip the brake switch from its harness and used a test light to check the power few through it. with the key off and the key on, same result: in the pic, the lower left and the upper right generated light. didn't see any loose wires anywhere under the dash. also, reiterating that the brake lights run with or without the switch even attached with the key on.

My connector is the same in layout but a little different in colors. Lower left is your constant battery power green/white wire. Mine is the same there. That is the only terminal that should get voltage with the key out and/or off or ACC. The upper and lower left should get power with the key in the on position. The upper right is the switch's ground, for my truck the wire is black. Yours appears orange black. You say that upper right is getting power/lighting up connected to ground. A good ground should light up with your test light connected to battery power. There's the problem. I would think you have an open ground.. to check connect your test light to battery power and touch to the upper right terminal, orange/black. It should light up if your ground is connected..
 
fresh test:
 

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so, is the blue plastic connector replaceable (do the wires easily disconnect)? wondering if something is amiss there. thinking, power is always flowing through the connector to the brake switch (operate it without the ignition on). with ignition on, with or without the switch, power is bypassing the switch and going to the brake lights.
 
fresh test:

I made a chart for you in the same manner your mind works so I hope you understand it. Here is the correct way it should work. I don't know what that 5th wire is. The green/white with silver is unknown to me. Is that supposed to be there?? That's the constant battery power terminal (red wire in my photo #1).
DC- on my chart means test light illuminates connected to battery power indicating good ground connection..
 

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what 4runner did you have? five wires are factory installed. owned since new, and nothing there has changed. maybe because of the factory tow hitch? the silver is markings on some of the wires, referencing something during assembly?
 
what 4runner did you have? five wires are factory installed. owned since new, and nothing there has changed. maybe because of the factory tow hitch? the silver is markings on some of the wires, referencing something during assembly?

2010, first year of the 5th generation. It's f_cking bullshit a factory service manual doesn't come with the vehicle, without spending two grand, especially if you own the b1tch. I can't seem to find the exact circuit diagram for your year. Have you located it?
 
2010, first year of the 5th generation. It's f_cking bullshit a factory service manual doesn't come with the vehicle, without spending two grand, especially if you own the b1tch. I can't seem to find the exact circuit diagram for your year. Have you located it?

I would assume the the switch would work in the same fashion anyways.. displaying the same tests results..
 
2010, first year of the 5th generation. It's f_cking bullshit a factory service manual doesn't come with the vehicle, without spending two grand, especially if you own the b1tch. I can't seem to find the exact circuit diagram for your year. Have you located it?

no, haven't even looked yet. might be time to get out the vaseline??
 
Have you tried pulling the 30 amp trailer battery fuse yet? That will send key on power to the trailer 7-way plug in the back, which can back feed to the stop lights. The 12v pin is right next to the right turn/stop lamp pin. Maybe worth a shot.
 

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crawled into the footwell. took two pics. first is the backside of the fuse box, with the three harnesses coming out. the second, gray box, is mounted on the backside of the fuse box. it seems to receive one of harnesses. is this the body control module? looks like i have to remove the lower dash, unbolt the fuse box, then access the gray box.
 

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crawled into the footwell. took two pics. first is the backside of the fuse box, with the three harnesses coming out. the second, gray box, is mounted on the backside of the fuse box. it seems to receive one of harnesses. is this the body control module? looks like i have to remove the lower dash, unbolt the fuse box, then access the gray box.

I believe the stop lamp circuit is an input to the power management control module not the body module. It's an input to the skid control module.
 

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