Jakeepoo3
New member
14 is the body control module as you already knew. 8 is the power management control module aka ECM. Fun stuff huh!
Brake lights constantly on?
- Thread starter rwh963
- Start date
14 is the body control module as you already knew. 8 is the power management control module aka ECM. Fun stuff huh!
[/LEFT
ok, so #2, with seems to be mounted on the back of the fuse box housing, is the signal flasher/DRL relay, so probably not related. #14, the body module seems to be installed within the fuse box body. i would need to dismount that and open it up to check its out.
you mentioned the "power management control module/ECM". that is #8, located in the glove box zone. curiously, it is in the location of the TPMS ECU, because that warning light is also on. then again, the tire sensors are original, so batteries could be shot.
called two dealers, both want about $150 to do an electrical analysis. that may include a deep code clearing. wondering how much the reader would be to get that info myself?
ok, so #2, with seems to be mounted on the back of the fuse box housing, is the signal flasher/DRL relay, so probably not related. #14, the body module seems to be installed within the fuse box body. i would need to dismount that and open it up to check its out.
you mentioned the "power management control module/ECM". that is #8, located in the glove box zone. curiously, it is in the location of the TPMS ECU, because that warning light is also on. then again, the tire sensors are original, so batteries could be shot.
called two dealers, both want about $150 to do an electrical analysis. that may include a deep code clearing. wondering how much the reader would be to get that info myself?
Jakeepoo3
New member
You can rent them or pull the codes manually via DLC. Yes number 8 is the ECM/PCM. There should be 5 connectors to it. Look at post 115 to refresh your memory. Your tpms module is different on your year near the center armrest area. My batteries died too so I bypassed the circuit and made it switchable on/off to f_ck off the annoying light. Damn just to diagnose.. yeah you can probably buy a decent scanner for that much that reads live stream data.
Jakeepoo3
New member
I highly doubt it's the module. What does the diagnosis say you paid a brick for say? Codes?? No detailed diagnosis for $300!? I would put a $100 bill that it's just an input sensor (which is a ton of sensors) to the abs module or a problem with the stop lamp switch circuit (also an abs module input through PCM). This is a prime example of dealership f_ckery at it's best. I get that abs module code all the f_cking time when any type of sensor that delivers information to that module gets dirty or something simple like a wheel speed sensor for a good example. That module isn't cheap! Why don't you do the test procedure to check your stop lamp circuit at the PCM/ECM I posted? That's what the ******* at Toyota should have done. That p1sses me off.
Jakeepoo3
New member
You mentioned a month ago that you need your traction control and anti-lock brakes to drive on the snow to school.. you were clearing any error codes stored and you could use your abs functions again to get safely to school. That tells me the module is fine 99% and it's only an input to the module or you couldn't have possibly done that.. 5000 people have viewed this post!! Is there anyone else who can help this gentleman not get completely screwed even more? Much appreciation!
i should have sent you a $300 gas card, and you could have driven your ass up here and saved me from the dealer devil!
seriously, though, why can't it be the abs module? they told me they can't even get the module any time soon, like weeks to months. that doesn't help them. they did say they rarely encounter this module failing (once per year). that's what the dealer said at 111k miles when the brake booster started squealing, saying highly unusual at that age to fail(replaced it with a used unit and has run well for 120k miles; i believe that unit had 70k on it from salvage, so it has 190k on it now.
the module is expensive new, but probably a fraction used. only paid $150 for the entire abs brake booster unit. my interest is in knowing if i can easily swap out the middle, which i presume is the black box on the side of the abs unit?
Attachments
i never said i was clearing codes and driving to school in the snow! you're smokin' the good stuff now!!
write up/w codes. somewhat similar to the codes that came up in 2013 when the brake booster was replaced (yes, i keep my papers organized!).
Attachments
Jakeepoo3
New member
Well the diagnosis procedure is the same as I explained so it appears he checked everything in the correct order, if he actually did it. I would do the same thing the paper says he did before you replace the control module though to make sure. I don't trust them. Yeah, I stay stoned is your truck under warranty? That computer from Toyota is $1000 new OEM plus labor. That's what they have to gain.. so none of your abs functions have worked since this stop lamp has stayed on. Anti-lock brakes, traction control, vehicle stability control, a-trac, downhill assist?? None of them will turn on. There should be a sh1t ton of module communication error codes. It's easy to replace that computer though if that's your main question.
Jakeepoo3
New member
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/302718-vsc-trac-dac-functions-disabled-solution.html#post3702084
I had a similar issue to yours as an example. Look at this link. All from a dirty speed sensor.
I had a similar issue to yours as an example. Look at this link. All from a dirty speed sensor.
Jakeepoo3
New member
C1246 master cylinder pressure sensor
This diagnostic should have been done with this code. This will prove if your abs actuator module is communicating with the stop lamp switch or not. By observing the voltage at the master cylinder pressure sensor which is inside the abs actuator module as you vary the pressure on the brake pedal. The voltage should increase as you depress the pedal according to the chart. If you're reading the stop switch voltages there then the abs actuator module is communicating properly.. he pulls the stop wire and the lights work.. did all your traction control and stability functions come back too with that wire out? Does your pedal ever get hard or spongy..
This diagnostic should have been done with this code. This will prove if your abs actuator module is communicating with the stop lamp switch or not. By observing the voltage at the master cylinder pressure sensor which is inside the abs actuator module as you vary the pressure on the brake pedal. The voltage should increase as you depress the pedal according to the chart. If you're reading the stop switch voltages there then the abs actuator module is communicating properly.. he pulls the stop wire and the lights work.. did all your traction control and stability functions come back too with that wire out? Does your pedal ever get hard or spongy..
Attachments
are you really up at 2 am helping??:cheer2:
you have a lot of questions.
1) i have not examined connector pins. that repair was done 9 years ago!
2)C1246: i don't know all the details of everything that was tested. if the pressure sensor is inside the module, does that make it a non-replaceable part?
hard or spongy: if that is directed towards me, pedal feel while driving is normal.
ABS light has never come on.
3) warranty: um, no. it is a 2007.....
4) codes: the service writer did say there were a lot of codes. there may have been more than written down. those written may have been the main ones.
5) replacement: haven't seen a video on replacing the module yet (others yes, not my 4runner). it looks like it just unbolts, assuming it is the black case in the pic. haven't got an exact part number yet. i did ask what the labor was, he quoted about $500. sounds ridiculous of it just a bolt on piece. he said there were brake lines involved, etc.
6)used: seems when you buy a used brake booster, it has the module attached. that is a used purchase option. as mentioned, bought that part in 2013 for $150.
you have a lot of questions.
1) i have not examined connector pins. that repair was done 9 years ago!
2)C1246: i don't know all the details of everything that was tested. if the pressure sensor is inside the module, does that make it a non-replaceable part?
hard or spongy: if that is directed towards me, pedal feel while driving is normal.
ABS light has never come on.
3) warranty: um, no. it is a 2007.....
4) codes: the service writer did say there were a lot of codes. there may have been more than written down. those written may have been the main ones.
5) replacement: haven't seen a video on replacing the module yet (others yes, not my 4runner). it looks like it just unbolts, assuming it is the black case in the pic. haven't got an exact part number yet. i did ask what the labor was, he quoted about $500. sounds ridiculous of it just a bolt on piece. he said there were brake lines involved, etc.
6)used: seems when you buy a used brake booster, it has the module attached. that is a used purchase option. as mentioned, bought that part in 2013 for $150.
Jakeepoo3
New member
Yeah so I don't operate on schedules! It's nice to try and help a brother out here and there. Yes the pressure sensor is integrated into the module that is why this test is ideal. It's weird that a bad computer would only affect one wire out of such an entangled network. I can look at the sheet and see everything he tested except the module itself hmmm and the master cylinder pressure.. he just followed the flow chart for the stop switch except for the one I attached. yes you have to disassemble the reservoir and brake lines, that's the only brake work. You'll have to relearn your zero point calibration. Does your cruise control work? I wonder if your abs functions came back with that wire out. If your going to buy that you like you mentioned may be able to find the computer with everything else attached used for way cheaper. Your getting close to two grand with the dealer. It is ridiculous
had a productive visit to my local dealers parts dept. (i like parts, low key, no pressure). discussed the part (one in the country). it is part of the master sub-assembly, so that is more available. computer component alone is not sold separately, only as part of the master solenoid, which is the name of the part with the module attached.
compatibility for the solenoid is all v6/v8 8/04-8/07. mine was made 7/07, so all work. i can either shop for just used solenoid w/module, or entire sub-assembly which includes solenoid.
P/N:
solenoid: 47217-35010
sub-assy: 47025-35070
compatibility for the solenoid is all v6/v8 8/04-8/07. mine was made 7/07, so all work. i can either shop for just used solenoid w/module, or entire sub-assembly which includes solenoid.
P/N:
solenoid: 47217-35010
sub-assy: 47025-35070
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Check this place. I bought an ABS module for my previous vehicle (Xterra) years ago and was very happy with the price and the part.
sounds like to test that sensor would have required a fair amount of additional time.
i can replace just the computer module on the solenoid, no brake line involvement? if the whole solenoid, then brake fluid/lines?
if i had to replace the whole solenoid, then i would shop for the entire sub-assembly again and have that replaced. local shop would charge about 3 hrs.
should i check cruise? ever ever have used it (since new). abs warning light has not appeared. should i hit the brakes hard somewhere to activate it?
