thebrandon
New member
Reading through this I learned about the PCV mod. I have a catch can from when I had my WRX, maybe I can try to incorporate it into my truck. Love the work you have done so far.
>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build
- Thread starter The4kbeast
- Start date
The4kbeast
New member
Thanks, Brandon. From what I've gathered (never stripped a 5VZ personally), the tolerances on these motors run pretty loose, so a catch can us a good idea to keep cid from circulating through the intake tract. I used two cans of carb and brake cleaner to clean the intake runners of all of the build up that had accumulated (no pictures). If a simple can setup can alleviate these issues and push back cleaning issues, I think it's a great idea that will make an already reliable machine even better. Wish I had pulled the manifold to see if anything had built up on the fuel injectors. I really need to buy tools to be able to do a compression check to test the health of my rings, too.
Anyway, thanks for the comments. Glad I could help pass on some of the great tribal knowledge on this site,.and a few others.
The4kbeast
New member
While I was clicking around Yotatech, I came upon someone mentioning Timbren bump stops. So I clicked around to find a video of them in action: Timbren SES on 95 4Runner Front suspension - YouTube
Holy crap, those inks take abuse! Granted it was on a second gen 4runner, but there were a bunch of other videos that show how great a solution they could be for various applications:
Axle-less trailer for suspension: Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension - YouTube
Towing: Timbren SES - Loaded vs. Unloaded - YouTube
They have third gen offerings, and pricing would be about $400 front and rear: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-appli...es/toyota.htm#
Only thing I don't like, is that on the rear since they are utilizing the stock bump location, there may be issues with resistance during articulation events. Ideally, it would be nice to mount the bump stop inside the spring. But judging how much the stops balloon out, there may be interference with the spring. To be continued...
Holy crap, those inks take abuse! Granted it was on a second gen 4runner, but there were a bunch of other videos that show how great a solution they could be for various applications:
Axle-less trailer for suspension: Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension - YouTube
Towing: Timbren SES - Loaded vs. Unloaded - YouTube
They have third gen offerings, and pricing would be about $400 front and rear: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-appli...es/toyota.htm#
Only thing I don't like, is that on the rear since they are utilizing the stock bump location, there may be issues with resistance during articulation events. Ideally, it would be nice to mount the bump stop inside the spring. But judging how much the stops balloon out, there may be interference with the spring. To be continued...
The4kbeast
New member
Unloaded 90-95 front:
Compressed 90-95 front:
Seems they could be used in back for off road if you ran a larger that 1" gap. Read a few threads on Toyota Nation, everyone loved them for hauling loads. One or two used them offroad. One guy with a Taco said it didn't hang up articulation on his trips off road. One person said this is what a customer service contact told them:
"""When your vehicle is loaded or goes off-road the rubber springs will compress and provides resistance, which will stiffen the suspension and keep the vehicle level. So if you are going off-road it will not allow the rear axle to flex. I spoke with my contact at Timbren and he said the system is not designed for recreational off-roading, but it can be used for somebody that might go off-road in a work situation."""
Hmmm... Sounds like it would bean expensive experiment.
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The4kbeast
New member
Starting lift install,
(All measurements in inches @ stock ride height, unless otherwise noted)
Center of wheel to fender measurements (empty gas tank, cargo area empty):
Front left & right: 19 1/4 Full flare, 19 1/2 metal fender
Strut length @ stock ride height: 17"
Rear left & right: 19 1/2 Full flare, 19 5/8 metal fender
Shock length @ stock ride height: 15 1/2
Shock length extended with stock rear sway bar end links: 20 3/8
Sway bar, pan hard bar, and e brake disconnected: driver/passenger side: 21 3/4 & 22 -> NEED 3" h2h EBRAKE LINE SPACER [12 mm bolt diameter], LONGER END LINKS [from front end], AND At least a 37 3/4 PANHARD BAR
Max shock length with stock rear sway bar links: 20 3/8 -> NEED EXTENDED END LINKS FOR ADDITIONAL DOWN TRAVEL AND ARTICULATION!
Shock length when oem frame rail bump stops engage: 14
Frame rail bump stop: 2 1/4 thick from frame mount, 2 1/4 W x 2 3/4 L
Rear axle to frame rail bump stop (12mm bolt mount), static on wheels: 2 3/4
Rear load support (inner spring bump stop) 7 1/4 long spring mount to tip, spaces rear spring down 5/16
Inner spring bump stop bottom to axle spring seat pad: 3/16" - talk about sag! Feels like a donkey kicking my hind side over bumps!
Spring inner pad for bump to spring mount on frame: 13 @ full axle extension
Spring upper frame mount to inner spring pad @ max compression: ~5 1/4 -- 5 9/16 if use inner bump stop for Light Racing 1.5 rear nitrogen jounce shock -- 4 3/4 to upper mount inner metal lip
Panhard bar: 37", 12 mm bolt holes (.4.... Etc of an in, convert later)
11mm bolt thickness
Panhard axle mount, interior/exterior dimensions: 42/52 mm
Install bolt 70 mm for min full thread engagement
OME 906 15 1/4 free height, any shock longer than 21 3/4 will let spring come loose from basket.
Wish me luck!
(All measurements in inches @ stock ride height, unless otherwise noted)
Center of wheel to fender measurements (empty gas tank, cargo area empty):
Front left & right: 19 1/4 Full flare, 19 1/2 metal fender
Strut length @ stock ride height: 17"
Rear left & right: 19 1/2 Full flare, 19 5/8 metal fender
Shock length @ stock ride height: 15 1/2
Shock length extended with stock rear sway bar end links: 20 3/8
Sway bar, pan hard bar, and e brake disconnected: driver/passenger side: 21 3/4 & 22 -> NEED 3" h2h EBRAKE LINE SPACER [12 mm bolt diameter], LONGER END LINKS [from front end], AND At least a 37 3/4 PANHARD BAR
Max shock length with stock rear sway bar links: 20 3/8 -> NEED EXTENDED END LINKS FOR ADDITIONAL DOWN TRAVEL AND ARTICULATION!
Shock length when oem frame rail bump stops engage: 14
Frame rail bump stop: 2 1/4 thick from frame mount, 2 1/4 W x 2 3/4 L
Rear axle to frame rail bump stop (12mm bolt mount), static on wheels: 2 3/4
Rear load support (inner spring bump stop) 7 1/4 long spring mount to tip, spaces rear spring down 5/16
Inner spring bump stop bottom to axle spring seat pad: 3/16" - talk about sag! Feels like a donkey kicking my hind side over bumps!
Spring inner pad for bump to spring mount on frame: 13 @ full axle extension
Spring upper frame mount to inner spring pad @ max compression: ~5 1/4 -- 5 9/16 if use inner bump stop for Light Racing 1.5 rear nitrogen jounce shock -- 4 3/4 to upper mount inner metal lip
Panhard bar: 37", 12 mm bolt holes (.4.... Etc of an in, convert later)
11mm bolt thickness
Panhard axle mount, interior/exterior dimensions: 42/52 mm
Install bolt 70 mm for min full thread engagement
OME 906 15 1/4 free height, any shock longer than 21 3/4 will let spring come loose from basket.
Wish me luck!
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The4kbeast
New member
Last stock pictures
Last pictures before I swap out the rear suspension:
Panhard bar orientation:
Stock bump stops:
Will still need a solution for the coils bump stop:
Last pictures before I swap out the rear suspension:
Panhard bar orientation:
Stock bump stops:
Will still need a solution for the coils bump stop:
The4kbeast
New member
New Rear 5100 Solution: Chevy Silverado rear 5100 shocks
Had to swap the bottom bushing, used a Posi-Lock I rented from Autozone and it worked like a charm. It allows you to lock the three arms in and push the bushing out. Going back together with the new bushing, I used brake oil that's rubber safe to lube up the new bushing. Then used 1/2" x 5 1/2" hex bolt and nut with four (qty) 1/2" fender bolts, to be sure I wouldn't bend the washers. You can see the original 5100 Silverado bushing in the lower right of the photo:
Stock shock versus Silverado 1500. High res so you can read lengths. The bottom bushing is on the line in the rug, which is locked in on 0. It looks offset, but that's because I qued the camera to favor the measurement side of the ruler. All in all, I gained about two inches of extended length:
Stock spring versus OME 906. Love that the OME springs are progressive, will be a good match to the Tundra front springs. Static length is just longer than a stock spring, but the spring rate is much higher. The spring rate is supposedly 200 lb/in, while all of the 3" OMEs are 180 or 190 lb/in.
Had to swap the bottom bushing, used a Posi-Lock I rented from Autozone and it worked like a charm. It allows you to lock the three arms in and push the bushing out. Going back together with the new bushing, I used brake oil that's rubber safe to lube up the new bushing. Then used 1/2" x 5 1/2" hex bolt and nut with four (qty) 1/2" fender bolts, to be sure I wouldn't bend the washers. You can see the original 5100 Silverado bushing in the lower right of the photo:
Stock shock versus Silverado 1500. High res so you can read lengths. The bottom bushing is on the line in the rug, which is locked in on 0. It looks offset, but that's because I qued the camera to favor the measurement side of the ruler. All in all, I gained about two inches of extended length:
Stock spring versus OME 906. Love that the OME springs are progressive, will be a good match to the Tundra front springs. Static length is just longer than a stock spring, but the spring rate is much higher. The spring rate is supposedly 200 lb/in, while all of the 3" OMEs are 180 or 190 lb/in.
The4kbeast
New member
3rd gen 4runner rear suspension travel measurements
To get all of the measurements above, I stripped the shocks and springs and ran it into its travel:
Ran it up until the 2000 model year frame bump stops were touching the axle. Took an insane amount of measurements so i could plan bump stops. Note the angle of the sway bar with stock sway bar links, will be interesting to see what happens with longer sway bar links.
Here is a picture for reference when looking at the measurements. Above I refer to inner spring measurements and I refer to a lip that centers the spring on its upper mount. Here it is:
Requisite late night pic of the springs and shocks installed. Due to the sagging old springs, I ended up with a center line to fender measurement of 22", so it would be 22 1/4" on a non-flare 4Runner. That equated to a 2.5" lift. I'll let it settle for a month or so and post an updated final lift number.
Shot of the suspension installed:
To get all of the measurements above, I stripped the shocks and springs and ran it into its travel:
Ran it up until the 2000 model year frame bump stops were touching the axle. Took an insane amount of measurements so i could plan bump stops. Note the angle of the sway bar with stock sway bar links, will be interesting to see what happens with longer sway bar links.
Here is a picture for reference when looking at the measurements. Above I refer to inner spring measurements and I refer to a lip that centers the spring on its upper mount. Here it is:
Requisite late night pic of the springs and shocks installed. Due to the sagging old springs, I ended up with a center line to fender measurement of 22", so it would be 22 1/4" on a non-flare 4Runner. That equated to a 2.5" lift. I'll let it settle for a month or so and post an updated final lift number.
Shot of the suspension installed:
The4kbeast
New member
Silverado 5100 rear shock + OME 906 springs
The 4Runner rides amazing now. The dampening is sensitive enough to dampen soft and small bumps without riding like a wagon, and it absorbs larger dips I hit on the way to my folks house... Need to hit some local fire roads, but that won't happen until I get the front done. The spring rate is soft enough to not feel like a truck lifted within an inch of its life, but stiff enough to return the rear suspension to static height without feeling like a pogo stick.
While shorter than a 00-06 Tundra rear shock that is perfect for a 3+ inch rear lift, the Silverado rear shock is nearly in the middle of its travel with a 2" lift. That means I have about 3.75" up travel, which leaves room for a suspended bump stop, and 4.5" of down travel. Add a bunch of expedition, camping, kid, and off roading crap and the 4R should level out nicely and even out my up/down travel. Still need to wait for it to settle in its travel to figure out which mount to use on the front Tundra shocks and springs, but I doubt I'll be that patient. Right now it's looking like I'm going to use the bottom mount.
The 4Runner rides amazing now. The dampening is sensitive enough to dampen soft and small bumps without riding like a wagon, and it absorbs larger dips I hit on the way to my folks house... Need to hit some local fire roads, but that won't happen until I get the front done. The spring rate is soft enough to not feel like a truck lifted within an inch of its life, but stiff enough to return the rear suspension to static height without feeling like a pogo stick.
While shorter than a 00-06 Tundra rear shock that is perfect for a 3+ inch rear lift, the Silverado rear shock is nearly in the middle of its travel with a 2" lift. That means I have about 3.75" up travel, which leaves room for a suspended bump stop, and 4.5" of down travel. Add a bunch of expedition, camping, kid, and off roading crap and the 4R should level out nicely and even out my up/down travel. Still need to wait for it to settle in its travel to figure out which mount to use on the front Tundra shocks and springs, but I doubt I'll be that patient. Right now it's looking like I'm going to use the bottom mount.
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The4kbeast
New member
I'm not a patient man, lol... Going to install the fronts and replace the LBJs while I'm there.
So from the information I've collected on the net about the effect each successive perch mount has on the total lift on Tundra springs/5100 (because you cant put stuff thats not true on the Internet):
(All measurements are from the center cap to fender)
- Set on middle perch aka 3rd from top or 3rd from bottom --- 24.2 ~ 4.7" lift over my sagging OEM equipment
- Set on 2nd perch from bottom --- 23" ~ 3.5" lift over my sagging old crap
- I couldnt find data on anyone that installed and documented a total lift on the lowest setting. From what i have collected, im guessing the lowest setting will give a measurement around 22", which would be just over a 2" lift.
Now for the install...
So from the information I've collected on the net about the effect each successive perch mount has on the total lift on Tundra springs/5100 (because you cant put stuff thats not true on the Internet):
(All measurements are from the center cap to fender)
- Set on middle perch aka 3rd from top or 3rd from bottom --- 24.2 ~ 4.7" lift over my sagging OEM equipment
- Set on 2nd perch from bottom --- 23" ~ 3.5" lift over my sagging old crap
- I couldnt find data on anyone that installed and documented a total lift on the lowest setting. From what i have collected, im guessing the lowest setting will give a measurement around 22", which would be just over a 2" lift.
Now for the install...
The4kbeast
New member
Bit of digging on the net before i get started... Found pics of the size tire im going to run on the Runner... Heres what a 265/75/16 (pictured are Big-O Bigfoot X\T) on stock 80 rims. Mine are chrome, wish I had the alloys...
The4kbeast
New member
Front measures 19 3/4 on either side now due to the lift being rear-only... For meow.
The4kbeast
New member
Front struts stock oem dimensions
Ill be updating throughout the date as I measure up the front end. It adds a few hours to the build, but I haven't seen anyone do this yet for the good of the community. I do have selfish reasons though, as I'll need to track this stuff to get an idea of how the front sits in its travel stock so I can compare it with the Tundra suspension setup like I did in the rear (lol).
Center of axle to flare: 19.5 with stock front/rear
Static length of strut/spring assy at stock height: 16 3/4"
Static length of new TUNDRA strut/spring assy at NEW height: 18 1/8"
Extended length of strut/spring assy: 17 1/4"
Spring length at OEM ride height: 10 1/2"
Inner lca mount bolt centerline to ground: 11"
Outer lca at lower shock mount centerline to ground: 9 3/8"
Space before front and rear bump stop: 7/8"
Struts apart:
Stock
Extended length (Strut mount to lower bolt centerline): 17 1/4"
Assembled spring length: 10 1/2"
Passenger side static spring length: 13"
Casing length (centerline bottom mount to top of casing): 12 1/2"
Strut diameter: 45 mm
Tundra 5100
Extended length (Strut mount to lower bolt centerline): 20 1/8"
Assembled spring length: 13 1/2"
Passenger side static spring length: 14 1/4"
Casing length (centerline bottom mount to top of casing): 12 13/16"
Strut diameter: 2", 46 mm piston
Other measurements:
Front brake pads: 10 mm
Disc rotor thickness: 22 mm
Ill be updating throughout the date as I measure up the front end. It adds a few hours to the build, but I haven't seen anyone do this yet for the good of the community. I do have selfish reasons though, as I'll need to track this stuff to get an idea of how the front sits in its travel stock so I can compare it with the Tundra suspension setup like I did in the rear (lol).
Center of axle to flare: 19.5 with stock front/rear
Static length of strut/spring assy at stock height: 16 3/4"
Static length of new TUNDRA strut/spring assy at NEW height: 18 1/8"
Extended length of strut/spring assy: 17 1/4"
Spring length at OEM ride height: 10 1/2"
Inner lca mount bolt centerline to ground: 11"
Outer lca at lower shock mount centerline to ground: 9 3/8"
Space before front and rear bump stop: 7/8"
Struts apart:
Stock
Extended length (Strut mount to lower bolt centerline): 17 1/4"
Assembled spring length: 10 1/2"
Passenger side static spring length: 13"
Casing length (centerline bottom mount to top of casing): 12 1/2"
Strut diameter: 45 mm
Tundra 5100
Extended length (Strut mount to lower bolt centerline): 20 1/8"
Assembled spring length: 13 1/2"
Passenger side static spring length: 14 1/4"
Casing length (centerline bottom mount to top of casing): 12 13/16"
Strut diameter: 2", 46 mm piston
Other measurements:
Front brake pads: 10 mm
Disc rotor thickness: 22 mm
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redbull9944
New member
You said about running a 265/75 BFG A/T. They're a great tire. I've been running it for only two months, but no complaints.
The4kbeast
New member
Sup Red, this is kind of my default tire because of the positive experiences I've had in Trail Tem FJs over the years. In fact, it's the same size/aspect ratio, so it's got a familiar feel and I know they wear good if you keep up with rotating them. They're definitely expensive for an AT, but def worth the extra coin.
Hey T4R, thanks! I remember reading a few people on the boards in another thread talking about Coops. I checked a few out online and I remember being surprised with how many different offerings they had. Do you run them or have any experience with them or the brand? I worry about life expectancy and road noise on some of the non mainstream tire companies. Will have to take. Another look. Thanks for dropping in and saying wassup!
The4kbeast
New member
Front Tundra 5100 install
Stock control arm angle... Level to the ground:
Got the front end in the air for a swap:
The rear looks crazy high compared to what I'm used to!
Control arm angle at max droop:
Here's what is going on; Tundra Double Cab TRD front coils on Tundra Bilstein 5100 front struts:
Stock control arm angle... Level to the ground:
Got the front end in the air for a swap:
The rear looks crazy high compared to what I'm used to!
Control arm angle at max droop:
Here's what is going on; Tundra Double Cab TRD front coils on Tundra Bilstein 5100 front struts:
The4kbeast
New member
Front strut comparison
Size comparison; stock 4Runner front vs Tundra Bilstein 5100:
I'll do a cople of size comparisons... Each time, I'll zero out my ruler on the shocks lower bushing centerline:
I'm running my install on the lowest setting for a balance of up travel vs down travel. Here you can see how much lower the spring perch is that a stock 4Runner. See the measurements above for the numbers side of things:
Big difference in terms of strut diameter. The 5100 was 2"... Stock was 1.8"... Or was it 1.6"?
Length difference was around 3 1/2 inches full extended, according to the picture... Sounds too high. I'll have to check my numbers with what's above.
Size comparison; stock 4Runner front vs Tundra Bilstein 5100:
I'll do a cople of size comparisons... Each time, I'll zero out my ruler on the shocks lower bushing centerline:
I'm running my install on the lowest setting for a balance of up travel vs down travel. Here you can see how much lower the spring perch is that a stock 4Runner. See the measurements above for the numbers side of things:
Big difference in terms of strut diameter. The 5100 was 2"... Stock was 1.8"... Or was it 1.6"?
Length difference was around 3 1/2 inches full extended, according to the picture... Sounds too high. I'll have to check my numbers with what's above.
The4kbeast
New member
Tundra TRD Springs and other things....
Left is stock 4Runner, right is TRD Double Cab Tundra
Before I could do the install, I had to make some adjustments to the bushings included in the kit. I had to taper the inner diameter to 16 mm so it would fit through the 4Tunner to spring perch. I didn't want to use the 4Runner upper bushings because they weren't as think, AND they were n really bad shape.
Shaved them x 4:
Left is stock 4Runner, right is TRD Double Cab Tundra
Before I could do the install, I had to make some adjustments to the bushings included in the kit. I had to taper the inner diameter to 16 mm so it would fit through the 4Tunner to spring perch. I didn't want to use the 4Runner upper bushings because they weren't as think, AND they were n really bad shape.
Shaved them x 4:
The4kbeast
New member
3rd gen front strut assembly
After the bushings were relieved, the units went together quick. Completed assemblies:
So with the fronts as is, ill have abou two inhes of additional down travel, and a half inch more up travel To give you a sense of scale, check out this comparison versus a stock 4Runner assembly:
Cleaned up my suspension so I can say I did it once:
Installed - note this is at full droop -- holy crap, may need a UCA. Oh, and this is pre diff drop, too:
After the bushings were relieved, the units went together quick. Completed assemblies:
So with the fronts as is, ill have abou two inhes of additional down travel, and a half inch more up travel To give you a sense of scale, check out this comparison versus a stock 4Runner assembly:
Cleaned up my suspension so I can say I did it once:
Installed - note this is at full droop -- holy crap, may need a UCA. Oh, and this is pre diff drop, too:
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