COB's 87 4Runner Turbo

No. I just registered my ride there. It was $69 for 5 years.

Oooooh, appealing. How about smog? Where in AZ is it registered? Give me the scoop. 5 years is a very long time to make CARB illegal modifications :P

Great build I just went through the entire thing and had to make an account to give you props. I also have to ask where you were able to find those rear interior panels? I have an 85 that is in need of them. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum, and thank you! Why not post up a build thread about your truck? I'm curious to see it.

The panels were found in a junkyard, I bought them from a forum member.

As far as this truck goes, youve done a freakin amazing job thus far COB, love the red

Thank you for the kind words, just glad to finally be part of the 1st gen club.
 
Oooooh, appealing. How about smog? Where in AZ is it registered? Give me the scoop. 5 years is a very long time to make CARB illegal modifications :P

There is only smog in a couple of city's in AZ. I did mine in bullhead city AZ. NO SMOG EVER That's and the cost is the reason I did mine. My brother and two of my other buddy's have all done it.
 
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This is the first time I've ever had the chance to break in a brand new engine. Pretty cool feeling when you learn about all of the things break in entails.

I made my first mistake using synthetic oil for the initial break in, I should have put more thought into it, but alas, I made the mistake. Low miles though, and the motor seems to be running just fine.

Some high zinc break in oil to clean things up and get through the first couple oil changes. It was Saturday, most places were closed. My first choice would have been Joe Gibbs, but this worked out fine.
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Ran the truck on this oil for 15 minutes at 2200 RPM, then kicked it up to 2700 for another 5 minutes before letting it idle. Signs of definite improvement afterwards, the rings are seating just fine despite the initial synthetic fluids.
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Now the truck is running 5W-30 Castrol Syntec conventional motor oil and a K&N HP-1002 filter. I'm going to go over the timing again later tonight when I can get my hands on a timing light. Idling a teeny bit lean (14.7-15.2 on the wideband)
 
So I've never broken in a new motor before either, and I'm going to be here shortly. I was thinking of using the Joe Gibbs stuff too. When you say the rings are seating "just fine", how do you know? What are you listening for?
 
Welcome to the forum, and thank you! Why not post up a build thread about your truck? I'm curious to see it.

The panels were found in a junkyard, I bought them from a forum member.
.

I'm unfortunately living in a condo complex and therefore unable to do much to my truck until I move into a house in a couple of years. However the guy I bought it from put roughly about 8k into it with a new engine, new suspension lift, new clutch, etc. Here she is

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/6Jv7oz1.jpg" width="1024">
 
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So I've never broken in a new motor before either, and I'm going to be here shortly. I was thinking of using the Joe Gibbs stuff too. When you say the rings are seating "just fine", how do you know? What are you listening for?

There were a couple things.

The truck had more power after the break in, leading me to believe that the treatment had been successful in creating a better ring seal. This was mentioned in contrast to the usual "if you use synthetic, your rings may not ever seat properly." I do not know the actual specific condition of the rings or whether or not they're perfect, however, the break in procedure made a clear difference in comparison to when the synthetic was in there. The exhaust pops (easy to monitor as a lean condition on the WB) practically disappeared and it idles a bit smoother. Wideband numbers are reading very stable, 15.3 at the leanest during idle. I still havent readjusted the timing though. I have been varying the RPMs up to 3k and allowing the engine to slow down on its own power since day 1.

The boost gauge I ordered hasn't come in the mail yet, but I can definitely feel the power difference before the turbo LED's come on. It can hold 40mph with ease in comparison.

If I were to do it again... keeping in mind that I have the thicker gray assembly lube in the motor

500 miles on high zinc break in oil, change.
another 1000 on high zinc break in oil, change.
about 10k miles worth of conventional oil, 3k intervals
Then switch to synthetic if all is well. Have heard some people running an extra bottle of zinc additive in the oil each conventional change, too. Not sure if I'll go that route.

I'm unfortunately living in a condo complex and therefore unable to do much to my truck until I move into a house in a couple of years. However the guy I bought it from put roughly about 8k into it with a new engine, new suspension lift, new clutch, etc. Here she is

It looks good! I like the rear bumper and the solid axle :D Are you wheeling it yet?

Even small mods can be fun, hope to see some cool additions until the big stuff happens.
 
It looks good! I like the rear bumper and the solid axle :D Are you wheeling it yet?

Even small mods can be fun, hope to see some cool additions until the big stuff happens.

Yeah I plan on putting some rock sliders that match the rear bumper on here pretty quick. As well as a custom front bumper from a local shop here. I'm gonna take her up to walker valley here pretty shortly.
 
TruckPillars.com sells a great A-pillar gauge pod solution. I've done business with the owner, Jeff Moskovitz, in the past. Really good to work with, very smart and honest guy.

I got a 3 pillar pod and autometer boost/water gauges.

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The vacuum is a bit off, the gasket between the halves of the intake manifold needs to be replaced.
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Then it was seat cover time... got some eBay cheapies for $40 front and rear.
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Fronts dont match the rears exactly, but they're black
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The vacuum is a bit off, the gasket between the halves of the intake manifold needs to be replaced.

Was that the teflon gasket between the upper and lower plenum? I had some doubts about reusing that thing but figured it was worth a shot.
 
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