crashman build thread 05 sport

And the wires to and from
Love the rivnuts
 

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First I ran the wires up from the side but it got in the way of the hood strut so I ran it from the back
 

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Lastly I removed the 2nd fuse block from the main battery and moved it to the 2nd battery
 

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Congrats on T4ROTM! I remembered seeing your truck this summer down in castle rock and it is awesome! Well deserved.
 
I had to bring it up to addicted off-road and Scott cut out the old shock mount then boxed the opening an welded a new mount to move it 1" out from the frame

I needed the 2.5" for the weight of the bumper and gear when I'm fully loaded I tried the 2" shocks but the rear bounced all around to the point I heard the bumper slapping the water when I did the water crossing and when I came down off a ledge or rock I would hit the 2.5" handled it much better!
I did upgrade to the compression dampening control shocks (CDC) so I can play around with them but now I have something new to learn about lol

Have any pictures of that shock relocation bracket they made ? I have a pretty good idea of what it would look like just want to make sure I'm on the same page , nice write up on things and clean ride .
 
Did the battery box for your second battery install without any problems? Just bolt right in? I think I'm going to pick one up, just want to make sure it won't be a project to get it bolted in.
 
Have any pictures of that shock relocation bracket they made ? I have a pretty good idea of what it would look like just want to make sure I'm on the same page , nice write up on things and clean ride .


I needed to make a couple of simple brackets and move the main working harness not a big deal
Here is a close up of the shock mount they made the parts to relocate pretty stout
 

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That battery isolator is basically a Ford Starter Solinoid. I'm sure it will do the job, but traditionally a unit like that is only designed for short bursts of current i.e. a Starter, not long duration loads. Perhaps the lower current draw is what makes it acceptable for that application.

I have no doubt you did your research and its an acceptable product. So not knocking it at all, just wanted you to be aware. Electrical fires are bad :nod:
 

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That battery isolator is basically a Ford Starter Solinoid. I'm sure it will do the job, but traditionally a unit like that is only designed for short bursts of current i.e. a Starter, not long duration loads. Perhaps the lower current draw is what makes it acceptable for that application.

I have no doubt you did your research and its an acceptable product. So not knocking it at all, just wanted you to be aware. Electrical fires are bad :nod:

Wow that's intresting!!
This one is the 200amp but it should just charge the battery not run anything or am I missing something?
Yes electrical fires are bad
 
Did the battery box for your second battery install without any problems? Just bolt right in? I think I'm going to pick one up, just want to make sure it won't be a project to get it bolted in.

Dunno if this got glossed over, can you shine some light on it for me? Thanks!
 
Wow that's intresting!!
This one is the 200amp but it should just charge the battery not run anything or am I missing something?
Yes electrical fires are bad

Can you explain in detail what/ how the soleinod is engaged?

I know what that is because thats style switch is what most lowrider guys use as solenoids on their hydraulic pumps. But even Hydraulics are momentary similar to a starter, albiet higher voltage (24-72v).

Like I said... it could be absolutely 100% fine.

I happened upon a Orion battery isolator on ebay. Excerpt from the manual: Orion's mbr 70 takes a totally new approach to ensure proper voltage levels in multiple battery systems. the mbr 70 is a smart regulator/isolator that senses the needs of the vehicles battery and any additional batteries. unlike conventional battery isolators, the mbr70 requires no cutting into the factory electrical system. it allows all the batteries in your vehicle to become a collective voltage source.
the mbr 70 ensures the proper voltage level in the vehicles battery by concentrating solely on that battery until it sees a charge voltage about 12.5 volts. Once this voltage level has been establishes the mbr70 couples all the batteries so they can all be charged.
when your engine is running, the mbr70 allows the alternator to feed all the batteries a regulated charge up to 70 amps.
when the ignition is turned off, the mbr70 becomes a one-way gate, isolating the current in the vehicle's battery from passing through to the auxiliary batteries. this one way gate ensures that the vehicles battery will always have enough charge to start the car, regardless of the charge level in the auxiliary batteries.
the mbr 70 is also in magnificent shape
-isolates batteries when ignition is off
-mounts in front or rear of vehicle
-senses charge voltage of auxiliary batteries
-brings charge voltage up on vehicles battery, then begins charging the -auxiliary batteries
-enables the stereo system to draw off all the batteries when engine is running
-can be installed without cutting into factory harness
-has led's to inform of, power and charge status

140315.jpg


Sorry for the thread jack, Just letting you know about other options.

Now that i've looked on ebay for a battery isolator, there are brand name (Stinger) units that have the same construction. So I assume its fine.

ebay battery isolator link thing
 
Can you explain in detail what/ how the soleinod is engaged?

I know what that is because thats style switch is what most lowrider guys use as solenoids on their hydraulic pumps. But even Hydraulics are momentary similar to a starter, albiet higher voltage (24-72v).

Like I said... it could be absolutely 100% fine.

I happened upon a Orion battery isolator on ebay. Excerpt from the manual: Orion's mbr 70 takes a totally new approach to ensure proper voltage levels in multiple battery systems. the mbr 70 is a smart regulator/isolator that senses the needs of the vehicles battery and any additional batteries. unlike conventional battery isolators, the mbr70 requires no cutting into the factory electrical system. it allows all the batteries in your vehicle to become a collective voltage source.
the mbr 70 ensures the proper voltage level in the vehicles battery by concentrating solely on that battery until it sees a charge voltage about 12.5 volts. Once this voltage level has been establishes the mbr70 couples all the batteries so they can all be charged.
when your engine is running, the mbr70 allows the alternator to feed all the batteries a regulated charge up to 70 amps.
when the ignition is turned off, the mbr70 becomes a one-way gate, isolating the current in the vehicle's battery from passing through to the auxiliary batteries. this one way gate ensures that the vehicles battery will always have enough charge to start the car, regardless of the charge level in the auxiliary batteries.
the mbr 70 is also in magnificent shape
-isolates batteries when ignition is off
-mounts in front or rear of vehicle
-senses charge voltage of auxiliary batteries
-brings charge voltage up on vehicles battery, then begins charging the -auxiliary batteries
-enables the stereo system to draw off all the batteries when engine is running
-can be installed without cutting into factory harness
-has led's to inform of, power and charge status

140315.jpg


Sorry for the thread jack, Just letting you know about other options.

Now that i've looked on ebay for a battery isolator, there are brand name (Stinger) units that have the same construction. So I assume its fine.

ebay battery isolator link thing

This on does pretty much the same thing with one additional option the "jump" function
It monitors the main battery and when it gets up to 13 volts it closes and starts charging the 2nd battery it will keep them connected until the car is off then when the voltage goes back down to 12 volts it seperates them or if the 2nd battery starts draining it separates them
However if the main battery is drained you can push a button and it connects them so you can jump start yourself without cables
 
Looks can be deceiving. Although that isolator does indeed resemble a Ford starter solenoid, that doesn't mean that's what it is.
 
Well I started plumbing in my air locker solenoids I started with a manifold
 

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Then modified it to fit under the hood
It's close to the hood strut but I think it clears
 

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Seats to high, not enough headroom

Just purchased a 2014 4 Runner Premium. With the sunroof I have very little headroom. I have zero headroom when sitting in the passenger seat. Is anyone aware of a way to lower the seat to provide more headroom? You help would be greatly appreciated, my first post so be gentle.
 
congrats of t4r of the year!

left compressor

just a tip, if you didnt do it already. Our ViAir compressors and be mounted externally like that. Do the compressors a favor, and give it a clean filtered air supply. run a filter relocation kit to inside the engine bay. i have my compressor getting fed at my airbox.

looks like you did a great job on your truck!
 
congrats of t4r of the year!



just a tip, if you didnt do it already. Our ViAir compressors and be mounted externally like that. Do the compressors a favor, and give it a clean filtered air supply. run a filter relocation kit to inside the engine bay. i have my compressor getting fed at my airbox.

looks like you did a great job on your truck!

Thanks I won for November lol

Thanks for the tip I ran the one into the engine so I will move the second one there also
 
Well I'm back!!
After 4 months down I am back in the road again!!
I can't wait to get on the trails after the gears are broken in
 

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