CV Boots Leaking...

HI guys last time i travelling by bus and There's been a grinding type noise coming from the passenger side of my car near the wheel. It happens only when accelerating and/or turning. After some research it seems like there might be something wrong with the CV boots.
I checked the boots and the ones in the passenger side seem fine.
 
Edit: You also posted in the 3rd gen.... so I am assuming you do not have a 4runner. Well, err... ignore below. :) No idea what how a concorde is set up. I am assuming it is a front wheel mounted transaxle... those can be a PAIN since everything is built in one.





V8 or V6?

Grinding when turning came be a CV going, or it could be bearings. When you turn it puts more horizontal force on the bearings and the CV joint, which can make the sounds loud enough to overcome road noise. I suspect in a bad bearing or cv boot, there is regular indicatative noise; but it can be masked.


If the boot is ripped, that is a good indicator but joints can go and not show any outward signs.

Best thing to do is jack up the tire; pull the tire and grab the rotor and push/pull it. You can do this with the tire, but it is harder to tell since the tire is rubber, which will flex.

OH shoot. The rotors on ours is free floating... ok, do it with the tire on. You want to see how much front/back play there is.. If the bearings are going, they will have a lot of play in them and you can tell.


Anyway. Neither is a super expensive fix.
 
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We just purchased our 2005 4Runner last week, and one of the items I noticed on the inspection was the lovely milkshake all over the front driver side wheel well. The outer boot it torn. The grease is still fairly clean and there is no vibration when 4x4 is engaged so I'm assuming it happened recently.

Would it make sense to just replace the boots and repack the grease? Or should I replace the one axle (heard aftermarket not nearly as good as OEM?)? Can I replace one axle at a time or should I do both front axles at the same time? The 4Runner has 150K miles. Any help would be appreciated!
 
If you feel that the boots axial is simply just okay and the only problem that is occurring is just due to the boot that has been spoiled then you should have to simply buy a new boot and replace it with the existing and if you feel that the axial is also not good then the problem might be relieved by replacing it with the new one.
 
Toyota has Boot Kit's that come with Both inner and outer boots, grease and all clamps for $40.00. Then $350.00 in labor per axle. You can do 1 at a time, but do Both boots per side for peace of mind. Good thing my buddy is a Toyota tech. Saved a bundle. Don't mess around just fix it right the first time. Not worth the headache.
 
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Az4runnin said:
Toyota has Boot Kit's that come with Both inner and outer boots, grease and all clamps for $40.00. Then $350.00 in labor per axle. You can do 1 at a time, but do Both boots per side for peace of mind. Good thing my buddy is a Toyota tech. Saved a bundle. Don't mess around just fix it right the first time. Not worth the headache.
Click to expand...

Prett much dead on for the price i got. Mine have been leaking for a while so when I brought my truck in for inspection I asked them to look at them and give me a price. $378 per side. :wow: I guess I'll be doing this myself
 
anybody have the marine hose clamps?

jstutz101 said:
Im going through this for the second time, the inner boots don't seem to last long. I got a new boot from here - Beck Arnley 103-2957 Constant Velocity Joint Boot Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive.

Then used this write up - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html#post914207.

If your just replacing the boot you don't need to remove the entire axle from the differential which saves some time. It's a messy job but not very difficult.
Click to expand...


Dont want to buy the special crimping tool for the inner boot smaller clamp. Anybody have the marine grade hose clamps with rounded edges they would sell me?

Thanks a million, and seriously this forum has saved my ass many times already.
 
ddnww said:
anybody?
Click to expand...

Each boot takes two. If I were you, I'd swing by the dealership and get them from there. You'll need a special tool to tighten them. I've heard of guys getting away with using hose clamps but only as a temp fix. I figure that since this isn't a frequent repair, it's best to do it right with boot clamps intended for the job.
 
Rocket61 said:
Each boot takes two. If I were you, I'd swing by the dealership and get them from there. You'll need a special tool to tighten them. I've heard of guys getting away with using hose clamps but only as a temp fix. I figure that since this isn't a frequent repair, it's best to do it right with boot clamps intended for the job.
Click to expand...

thanks , and there is two boots on each side right, so 4 of each side. total of 8.
 
ddnww said:
thanks , and there is two boots on each side right, so 4 of each side. total of 8.
Click to expand...

Yep, there's an inner and outer boot on each cv axle. If you're looking at replacing all 4 or even 2, consider replacing the whole axle. Rebooting is a lot of work and I would say not worth it if you're doing both boots on a cv.
 
Rocket61 said:
Yep, there's an inner and outer boot on each cv axle. If you're looking at replacing all 4 or even 2, consider replacing the whole axle. Rebooting is a lot of work and I would say not worth it if you're doing both boots on a cv.
Click to expand...

i just want to put the clamps on since i recently did the lift and am getting
some leaking.
 
aftermarket cvs or factory

I just went through this also, Got back from tray mtn ride and finished tearing my cv axles, So I drank the cheap kool aid and bought axles from Detroit axle, had them shipped and then installed. They lasted 3000 miles because they used crappy Chinese made products, namely there boots. I have a brand new set of axles in my shed as door stops because I just spent the coin to buy OEM, the last set lasted 216k miles so I expect close to the same. I don't have the time to change axles out every 4 months because crappy boots. If you do it yourself by the remans... Just saying....
 
I just changed my axles with OEM reman's. Decided to keep my originals and reboot to have spares. Honestly though, looking back (and knowing what I know know), I'd just reboot. It's not really that much extra work like some indicate. Sure, that assumes no stubborn nuts, bolts, screws, parts, etc...

I'd say if it's a recently torn boot (w/ little miles driven in that condition), a reboot is a totally viable job for a moderate DIY'er. I got spooked and went with new axles. That's not to say I think I decided wrong, just that I don't think it's too much more involved. Just make sure you get all your parts.

If the axle has been run with a torn boot for a while, then grit and grime could have damaged the joint surfaces or the tripod bearings. That would be more involved and a straight axle swap is way easier. With the prices of axles, I'd still keep the OEM and try to rebuild it, or at least make a decent assessment of how worthwhile it would be.

Look at these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEaWyxF1S7o&list=PL9782DE7202E65353&index=13

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0
 
I used zip ties as a temporary fix when I noticed them leaking and they seem to be holding up pretty well actually (knock on wood) been on for over 1000 miles and haven't noticed any leaking. I haven't been offroad but 2 or 3 times though.
 
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