CV replacment pics

nquaint

New member
I broke my driver side CV shaft the other day on a trail. Took some pics while I removed and replaced it this past weekend if anyone is interested.

here is the damage:
SDC10309.jpg~original



after I got the hub nut off
SDC10312.jpg~original


used the jack to flex the upper arm down
SDC10313.jpg~original


after pulling the CV out, the inner boot slipped off and separated
SDC10315.jpg~original

SDC10316.jpg~original


old and new
SDC10317.jpg~original


new one halfway in
SDC10318.jpg~original


spline seated
SDC10319.jpg~original


some dummy forgot to put the wheel spacer back on
SDC10320.jpg~original


all done!
SDC10321.jpg~original
 
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Thanks for the pics. They are great. After just lifting mine, I am now looking deeply into my CVs to see how much life I have left in them.

Do you run wheel spacers in the back as well? Or do you deal with a wider front? My upper arm is pretty close to my tire so I think I might have to go that route too.

How long did it take ya?
 
Thanks for the pics. They are great. After just lifting mine, I am now looking deeply into my CVs to see how much life I have left in them.

Do you run wheel spacers in the back as well? Or do you deal with a wider front? My upper arm is pretty close to my tire so I think I might have to go that route too.

How long did it take ya?
I have the spidertrax spacers on all 4 wheels, I also had some minor rubbing after going to 285/75s but the spacers fixed it.
The job took about 1.5-2 hours, it was my first time doing it, If I need to do it again I think I can be done in under an hour tops. I've had my lift in for over a year now and and CVs have held up great even with the abuse I put them through. I guess I hit a rock at the wrong angle or they have been wearing down over time.
 
Pesky rocks!

I'm glad to hear that they held up for so long. I threw some rubber conditioner on mine when I did the lift install in hopes that I would ease any potential strain of angle change. Seeing as they have been in roughly the same position for 13 years now.
 
Pesky rocks!

I'm glad to hear that they held up for so long. I threw some rubber conditioner on mine when I did the lift install in hopes that I would ease any potential strain of angle change. Seeing as they have been in roughly the same position for 13 years now.

I had some boot leakage on both sides after doing the lift so I put on heavier duty clamps which solved it.
 
I'm due for this on my passenger side. I'm still debating on where to get the CV from. Who did you use? Brand name? Thanks for the pics and a time to beat btw :bravo:
 
I'm due for this on my passenger side. I'm still debating on where to get the CV from. Who did you use? Brand name? Thanks for the pics and a time to beat btw :bravo:

I got it from an O'reilly's/Checkers auto store, but NAPA, Autozone and others all carry their own brands, mine is a "Master Performance" or something like that, came with lifetime free replacement which is nice. You can get new or remanufactured as well. There have been reports of these non-OEM brands being weaker and breaking quicker then original toyota CVs that I read about about after installing it. You can get an OEM CV from a dealer for a little more money if you want to. If this one breaks I'll turn it in for a replacement to use as a spare and get an OEM one to put back in.
 
There have been reports of these non-OEM brands being weaker and breaking quicker then original toyota CVs that I read about about after installing it. You can get an OEM CV from a dealer for a little more money if you want to. If this one breaks I'll turn it in for a replacement to use as a spare and get an OEM one to put back in.

Yeah I've read some of those reports so I may just go with OEM if the price isn't absurd. I'd rather pay for it now than pay for it later
 
I got it from an O'reilly's/Checkers auto store, but NAPA, Autozone and others all carry their own brands, mine is a "Master Performance" or something like that, came with lifetime free replacement which is nice. You can get new or remanufactured as well. There have been reports of these non-OEM brands being weaker and breaking quicker then original toyota CVs that I read about about after installing it. You can get an OEM CV from a dealer for a little more money if you want to. If this one breaks I'll turn it in for a replacement to use as a spare and get an OEM one to put back in.

I like your idea of using it as a spare.
 
I have the spidertrax spacers on all 4 wheels, I also had some minor rubbing after going to 285/75s but the spacers fixed it.
The job took about 1.5-2 hours, it was my first time doing it, If I need to do it again I think I can be done in under an hour tops. I've had my lift in for over a year now and and CVs have held up great even with the abuse I put them through. I guess I hit a rock at the wrong angle or they have been wearing down over time.

Taking pics probably slowed you down. Once you do it a couple of times... 20 mins tops. its really quite simple.

I'm due for this on my passenger side. I'm still debating on where to get the CV from. Who did you use? Brand name? Thanks for the pics and a time to beat btw :bravo:

I agree. O'Reilly's has an excellent deal for a very reasonable price. Lifetime warranty means the following for me: Use as spare. Blow out your OEM axle... insert spare. Get axle rebuilt at local axle rebuild shop... re-insert OEM axle. Keep the box for the axle when you buy it... and always carry your spare with you.
 
Lifetime warranty means the following for me: Use as spare. Blow out your OEM axle... insert spare. Get axle rebuilt at local axle rebuild shop... re-insert OEM axle. Keep the box for the axle when you buy it... and always carry your spare with you.

I like that idea better, thanks!
 
I literally picked up my new half shaft yesterday at Auto Zone and it's in the back of the Runner right now. I am going to be doing this late next week ( my CV boot exploded!!). These photos will help, thanks for taking the time.
 
My right inner CV boot needs to be replaced & I went through my Haynes manual as the illustration shows that there is a snap ring inside the shaft of the inner tulip joint. What do I have to do to get @ the snap ring? Does it require disassembling the front diff to get @ it? :confused:
 
My right inner CV boot needs to be replaced & I went through my Haynes manual as the illustration shows that there is a snap ring inside the shaft of the inner tulip joint. What do I have to do to get @ the snap ring? Does it require disassembling the front diff to get @ it? :confused:

Nope, all you need to do is get that CV axle out of the diff. All you need to do is stick a flat head screwdriver or thin crowbar in, and "pop" it out...the half shaft that is.

Once you get that out, you can start disassembling the boots. I can't remember what you need to do to get to the snap ring, but I think you just need to hold the tripod joint in a certain position and get it off. Its not all that bad, I've done it 3 times before, but its been about 4-5 years since the last one so I am a little fuzzy on the details....

Well, here's a good link, I forgot about:

Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
 
I removed my drivers side CV tonight. I'm taking it to a place that rebuilds them for $75. They said they can either rebuild mine or give me an OE cv axle that is already rebuilt. I was refered to them by 3 different axle/gear shops. My question is, how can I tell if the one they already have rebuilt is OE or aftermarket? I for sure want OE.

I looked on mine for markings or castings but could not find any, granted mine is extremely dirty and covered in grease from the leaking boot. I just don't want to trade my OE axle for some crappy one unknowingly.
 
Seems like a popular activity this week. Just got done pulling the drivers side axle on my 2nd gen. Replacing it in the morning. Wheeling it in the afternoon. Hopefullynot breaking it before this weekend's trail ride.
 
My shop just quoted me $240 to replace front driver CV axle (theres grease everywhere!)

Seem fair?

I was intimidated by this job but it really is quite easy. I bet you could do out yourself assuming you have the tools. 35mm socket cost me 16.99 at AutoZone and I already had a breaker bar. I bet it will take 1-1.5 hours tops for your first time. I'm shooting for 30-45 minutes on the passengers side for removal.
 
The shop quote is right on spec for AllData give or take a few dollars.

Josh, the OEM CV axle is thicker than the aftermarket ones. Better material. The one that the OP replaced his OEM with is a new Oreilys, which has worked well for my friend's 4runner for close to three years. But aftermarket CVs are usually a crap shoot to whether you get a good one or not.
 

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