Daytime Running Lights

tkr128 said:
Thanks for the heads-up! I ordered the relay, but it's on backorder. Is there any reason I should go out and buy the "DRL bulbs" or should I just stick with the original bulbs?
bryancos said:
I'm guessing that one filament of the dual filament is brighter (DRLS) and the other is for turn signals only? .... hence converted DRLs may have different intensity (brighter or dimmer) from stock?

It'd be interesting to see side by side comparison of a stock DRL to a converted DRL
toyo said:
Yesterday when I was doing my switch I compared the new bulbs to the old bulbs and they looked exactly the same. So I called a different dealership to ask them what part# the drl bulb is. He started telling me that what I was doing was not going to work since his screen was showing a different wiring harnesss for drl equipped models. I was like I know this will work. So I put the bulbs back in and it worked. I had to call him back and gloat!
Ok, so I must be dense. Did toyo decide to change the bulbs because they are brighter?

If I was going to try and get this flasher from a Toyota dealer, what is the part number? I couldn't find it, but there are several pages and threads, so I may have missed it. The reason for ordering it throught Toyota instead is because I am already going to order several things from Carson Toyota and if they can do it for the same price I want to do it all at once.
 
Thank you sir. I totally missed that.

I directed the bulb question at toyo, but if anyone else knows why you would want to replace the bulbs please let me know.
 
You can't replace the bulbs -- so don't bother. They require a different socket, housing, lens cover and socket wiring connector (all described in this thread).
 
rando said:
You can't replace the bulbs -- so don't bother. They require a different socket, housing, lens cover and socket wiring connector (all described in this thread).
Yeah rando, I read all your great posts on the topic. You really seem to be an electrical wiz. I was just confused by this post by toyo:
toyo said:
Yesterday when I was doing my switch I compared the new bulbs to the old bulbs and they looked exactly the same. So I called a different dealership to ask them what part# the drl bulb is. He started telling me that what I was doing was not going to work since his screen was showing a different wiring harnesss for drl equipped models. I was like I know this will work. So I put the bulbs back in and it worked. I had to call him back and gloat!
But based on your reply I will drop it and not worry about the bulbs and all.
 
I haven't yet seen/learned the final word on the bulb differences. I've asked a couple of times for someone with the factory DRL system to test their wiring to see what's what. So far, nobody has responded.

The bulbs may be physically compatible (as toyo's post suggests) but the important thing to know is that the OEM DRL system uses all of those different parts. There might be a good reason for that (i.e. higher wattage bulb is brighter but might also damage the non-DRL socket ....). The easiest thing to do is just replace the flasher. Probably the only thing that might happen (if anything) is that your non-DRL bulbs will burn out slightly faster than the DRL ones. Putting the DRL bulbs in the non-DRL socket (if possible at all) could result in the wrong filement of the bulb being used and/or overheating the socket, lense cap, wiring, etc.
 
My truck has DRLs on it, since I have ABS. How do I get rid of it? It looks fugly! (Also, Im soon getting OEM FogLamps and Im gonna have those on all the time in place of the DRLs)
 
Please Respond to Rando

Can we get someone with DRLs to answer rando's question about the DRL wiring? This would cap this thread off and make it complete.

Thanks Rando for all your postings on this thread.
 
Gangus2006 said:
My truck has DRLs on it, since I have ABS. How do I get rid of it? It looks fugly! (Also, Im soon getting OEM FogLamps and Im gonna have those on all the time in place of the DRLs)

Never mind, I found the solution over at YotaTech
 
I may do this mod, but run a relay from my parking lights so that they are activated with that switch. I would like to also wire the existing front parking lamps to double as turn signals. This way they would all work together and should make the turn signal more visible when changing lanes.

If I ever get around to doing an HID mod, I will add a couple of yellow LEDs to the high beam housing to come on with the parking lights as well (a.k.a. city lights)

Any reason I wouldn't want to do any of this? It seems pretty simple in theory, but maybe I am missing something.
 
rando said:
I haven't yet seen/learned the final word on the bulb differences. I've asked a couple of times for someone with the factory DRL system to test their wiring to see what's what. So far, nobody has responded.

The bulbs may be physically compatible (as toyo's post suggests) but the important thing to know is that the OEM DRL system uses all of those different parts. There might be a good reason for that (i.e. higher wattage bulb is brighter but might also damage the non-DRL socket ....). The easiest thing to do is just replace the flasher. Probably the only thing that might happen (if anything) is that your non-DRL bulbs will burn out slightly faster than the DRL ones. Putting the DRL bulbs in the non-DRL socket (if possible at all) could result in the wrong filement of the bulb being used and/or overheating the socket, lense cap, wiring, etc.

technically, I haven't read this thread...only the thread that hiredgun posted to get attention...but here's what I posted in that thread...I was in a hurry this morning and only just looked, no testing, but what I found will prolly answer your question. if you need me to look more in depth, lemme know...

checked the wires just before coming into work this morning. I have just two wires going to the bulb. there are three places in the connector, but only two were hooked up. I unplugged the connector and found that the third place doesn't even have a pin or anything in it....so only two wires hooked up to the DRL bulb...

Kev
 
@kglueck: OK, that's settles it then -- er uh, almost. Can you test the bulb itself to see if the two filaments are internally shorted (or just look at it while it's on to see if both filaments light up)?
 
Luxury--I am sorry I havent been responding to your questions. I have not checked this thread in a while.
THe deal with the bulbs is this.... I was told and read that they use two diff bulbs for drl and non drl equipped cars. My dealer kept saying that they only used one bulb, and the one I had would not work. Well I put it all together and it worked.
 
:worthless
Does anyone have installation pics. I know the directions over at yota are pretty descriptive, but pics would sure help, since I have never done anything in that area. If not, I'll be sure to take some when I install my flasher........which has already arrived.
 
Special thanks to those here (and at the other site) for the information to enable DRL for the basic $32 cost of a relay replacement.

I got the flasher relay from Partznet, following good installation instructions that Rando, Fish and others reference to the other site.

A 10mm nut driver and a very small screw driver should be the only tools one needs. The only "you're on your own" operation is releasing the locking tabs of the original relay and the small harness attaching to it. If you look at your new uninstalled relay it will give you some idea of the locking barb used. I recall with the fuse block turned over, the non-DRL beige relay slides off to the left and its harness end slides off a second locking pad in the other direction. Hopefully, this would be more clear if one gets to this point.
 

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