Discuss: DIY Rust Proofing Options

[TinBucket]

Are there any bolts which are "must-do" for removal. I.e I'll be kicking myself for not removing them?

my truck is damn rusty(i wished I'd spent more time checking that out).

Is just grease-gunning in some motor-oil into the frame ok?

Any recommendations for the body? My pinch-welds seem to be letting rust in the body area.

 

[Dukers]

This is what I plan do.
I'm new to the community but not to cars. POR 15 is great stuff. Last vehicle I had as a toy got sand blasted on a rotisserie and bed liner sprayed on the bottom.

 

[foskco87]

Any updates on the POR15 frame paint? Did it hold up? Would you recommend? Ive heard an awful lot of people saying that POR15 dries too hard and brittle and just cracks with the expanding/flexing of the frame.

 

[nobb]

Any updates on the POR15 frame paint? Did it hold up? Would you recommend? Ive heard an awful lot of people saying that POR15 dries too hard and brittle and just cracks with the expanding/flexing of the frame.

It's holding up really nicely! I've also been oil coating the frame every season, so that's kind of cheating. But there's really no rust spots on the frame all these years. PO15 bonds extremely effectively to the chassis.

 

[tyrenta]

Eastwood has a new rust encapsulator (platinum) that seems similar to POR15, also hydro cured. Maybe less prep, not cheap at $60/qt but I'm going to give that a shot.

I'm not sure on converters first if that's a better route, i.e. spraying them where you may not be able to reach with the paint. Apparently tannic acid based are the best bet according to this study:

NCPTT | Comparative Study of Commercially Available Rust Converters

But this says they are a waste:

ResearchGate

Likely the best bet is do what you can then cheat with the fluid film

 

[brillo_76]

Everything on this thread is excellent rust proofing.

The only thing I can add is use liquid inside things like frame, rockers door etc. As it will move around providing better protection. My choice for this is FF.

The outer frame and fender wells areas that see alot of water would be better for something that's harder. Especially the fender wells in rust belt environments. I am thinking raptor lining in those. However, I didnt try it yet so I can't recommend that's a viable solution.

You can do liquids as well but I do that in the summer with several coats of liquid with dirt and dust sticking to it.


Just plain paint with nothing else isnt going to last long. I tried that as an experiment and not worth your time.

[With the exception of POR 15 and KB Seal]

Now using paint with other rust inhibitors and liquids on top is a completely different story.

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[brillo_76]

Eastwood has a new rust encapsulator (platinum) that seems similar to POR15, also hydro cured. Maybe less prep, not cheap at $60/qt but I'm going to give that a shot.



I'm not sure on converters first if that's a better route, i.e. spraying them where you may not be able to reach with the paint. Apparently tannic acid based are the best bet according to this study:



NCPTT | Comparative Study of Commercially Available Rust Converters



But this says they are a waste:



ResearchGate



Likely the best bet is do what you can then cheat with the fluid film

Rust converters before paint I can tell you from experience are alot better then just paint..

I use corroseal and Skyco Ospho.

I skeptical of Eastwood in the rust belt. Maybe it works with their new products. Other users may have had better success with it.

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[Kanoe]

The only thing I can add is use liquid inside things like frame, rockers door etc. As it will move around providing better protection. My choice for this is FF.

The outer frame and fender wells areas that see alot of water would be better for something that's harder. Especially the fender wells in rust belt environments.

Don't know if you guys can get this stuff south of the border. I use the FF also, but find by spring most of it has gone. This rust check sticks around a lot longer, maybe even a 2 season product. There's a good bit left on mine still this spring. You can also get 2 cans for the price of 1 FF.

 

[Sarki]

Been down same road as many on this thread......
Just about to call it done on applying POR-15 to frame, spare tire mounting, rear axle housing and factory skids.
Been a long journey with heavy duty wire wheels on angle grinder and a compact needle scaler......what a messy job.
Did not include front suspension area as didn’t really see the need as these trucks seem to need attention towards the back end.
The plan is to apply Fluid Film annually to entire undercarriage, including inside frame rails and rockers.
Thankfully I found the frame to be solid in all areas, even by the muffler.
Hoping this investment in sweat equity pays off and I can safely use this as my DD without fear of destroying the frame from salted winter roads.

 

[brillo_76]

Don't know if you guys can get this stuff south of the border. I use the FF also, but find by spring most of it has gone. This rust check sticks around a lot longer, maybe even a 2 season product. There's a good bit left on mine still this spring. You can also get 2 cans for the price of 1 FF.

Never heard of that. I looking into a better protectant for the high water areas. liquids are excellent for areas that dont get washed away. Even POR 15 has its limits.

I am honestly looking at Cosmoline based products for hi water areas as a rust protectant.

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[Kanoe]

Must be Canadian product. Too bad. It’s sticky enough for wheel wells.

 

[brillo_76]

Must be Canadian product. Too bad. It’s sticky enough for wheel wells.

Good to know though. some things are not available in all countries I noticed.

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[kyrin]

I used Rusfre Rustproofing on mine

 

[toverturf]

Been down same road as many on this thread......
Just about to call it done on applying POR-15 to frame, spare tire mounting, rear axle housing and factory skids.
Been a long journey with heavy duty wire wheels on angle grinder and a compact needle scaler......what a messy job.
Did not include front suspension area as didn’t really see the need as these trucks seem to need attention towards the back end.
The plan is to apply Fluid Film annually to entire undercarriage, including inside frame rails and rockers.
Thankfully I found the frame to be solid in all areas, even by the muffler.
Hoping this investment in sweat equity pays off and I can safely use this as my DD without fear of destroying the frame from salted winter roads.

I'm planning on doing this the next few weeks. Will probably drop the rear axle so I can get it coated really well and have better access to the frame. Did you just tape over the bolts and holes you didn't want to get POR15 on?

 

[Sarki]

I'm planning on doing this the next few weeks. Will probably drop the rear axle so I can get it coated really well and have better access to the frame. Did you just tape over the bolts and holes you didn't want to get POR15 on?

Used a bit of painters tape on some and others I just carefully painted around.
I was tempted to drop rear diff and exhaust but after removing all flaking rust on frame and not finding any suspect areas decided it wasn’t necessary.
I also think most rear diffs that leak from the housing due to rust usually leak from the cover area and not on top of the housing so why go through all the work of dropping diff.
Thinking annual application of Fluid Film will take care of areas I didn’t treat with POR-15.

 

[brillo_76]

Used a bit of painters tape on some and others I just carefully painted around.

I was tempted to drop rear diff and exhaust but after removing all flaking rust on frame and not finding any suspect areas decided it wasn’t necessary.

I also think most rear diffs that leak from the housing due to rust usually leak from the cover area and not on top of the housing so why go through all the work of dropping diff.

Thinking annual application of Fluid Film will take care of areas I didn’t treat with POR-15.

Nothing wrong with doing it that way at all.

I curious to see how POR 15 holds up long term. Being the one I did is kept in a garage and still not fully back together yet. I dont have longevity range. From what I seen others do. If its put on properly. It lasts forever.

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[brillo_76]

I used Rusfre Rustproofing on mine

Cant say I heard of that one either.

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[brillo_76]

Been down same road as many on this thread......

Just about to call it done on applying POR-15 to frame, spare tire mounting, rear axle housing and factory skids.

Been a long journey with heavy duty wire wheels on angle grinder and a compact needle scaler......what a messy job.

Did not include front suspension area as didn’t really see the need as these trucks seem to need attention towards the back end.

The plan is to apply Fluid Film annually to entire undercarriage, including inside frame rails and rockers.

Thankfully I found the frame to be solid in all areas, even by the muffler.

Hoping this investment in sweat equity pays off and I can safely use this as my DD without fear of destroying the frame from salted winter roads.

Rig is looking great Sarki.. Excellent job on painting it up

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[Sarki]

Rig is looking great Sarki.. Excellent job on painting it up

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Appreciate the kind words.
Hoping the POR-15 holds up and annual application of Fluid Film keeps the rust devil in check.
Love these 3rd gen 4Runners but protecting the undercarriage from the salty winter roads is a like a second job........a good second job though!

 

[brillo_76]

Appreciate the kind words.
Hoping the POR-15 holds up and annual application of Fluid Film keeps the rust devil in check.
Love these 3rd gen 4Runners but protecting the undercarriage from the salty winter roads is a like a second job........a good second job though!

I am thinking the main problem is the holes in the frame. If the frames were completely sealed they last a lot longer in the rust belt..