DIY: Changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners

I immediately cut the engine off and took the belt off to make sure all the pulleys turned easily and they all seem to. I put the belt back on and re-started the engine and it immediately jumped off track again. Repeated this one more time. Any ideas on what my potential issue might be?

I once had it jump off track immediately after installation too. Turned out one of the other pulleys, it wasn't sitting on properly. Third time lucky? Get your phone down there and record around each and every pulley (whilst turned off) to make sure it's sitting right. If you haven't swapped any pulleys out, no reason it should jump off.
 
Here is a simple DIY on changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners. I couldn’t find any DIY threads with pictures, so I decided to make one. It took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish, so anybody could do this with the basic tools. Hope this helps.



Great write up, thanks...
Just did my belt, 1st time...
Bought 4Runner with 223K miles, never changed belt...
Now I have put on 100K+ miles,
Bando off, Bando on...

Oddly enough the new belt was just a tab bite longer... Same Bando, same model number... I think the belts have changed, since 2003...
Yea, I believe I was running with the original serpentine belt...
 
I have done this a number of times. When I replace the belt, I also replace the tensioner pulley bearings at the same time. The original bearing is a 5203 sealed bearing and you can find them on ebay. But I buy the 6203 bearings 10 at a time and just press 2 6203 bearings in the old pulley. Just so you know, the tensioner never fails, but the bearings wear out on the pulley causing the squeaking noise. The bearings are about $6 each and super easy to press in and out. I also sand and repaint the pulley while its out. Having two bearings gives more support to the pulley as well. Important to note, the pulley bolt is reverse threaded so counter clockwise tightens and clockwise loosens it. I torque back to 15-20# with blue loctite.

158636-b2eb2ab4130dd517e12f23086407cdf6.jpg


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A few years ago my 2005 15-year-old 4runner with 150,000 miles was on a lift at a shop with 6 lifts. The mechanic had the OEM serpentine belt in his hand, and I handed him a new one in case it was worn.

He handed the new one back and said your OEM belt is OK.

It's been over a year since that oil change/check up. I'm on OEM WP and alternator. Personally, I won't replace anything running around the serpentine belt until I get some noises or water leaks from WP or alternator failure.

Here's a great tool that tells you if your battery and alternator are ok.

Amazon.com: KONNWEI KW600 12V 100-2000 CCA 220AH Car Battery Load Tester Professional Automotive Alternator Analyzer - Waveform Voltage Test for Car/Boat/Motorcycle: Automotive :cheer2:

Watch out for the idiot posters that show up with dumbell advice EVERY DAY. They couldn't get a job pumping gas. scotty kilmer on serpentine belts - Bing video
 
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A few years ago my 2005 15-year-old 4runner with 150,000 miles was on a lift at a shop with 6 lifts. The mechanic had the OEM serpentine belt in his hand, and I handed him a new one in case it was worn.

He handed the new one back and said your OEM belt is OK.

It's been over a year since that oil change/check up. I'm on OEM WP and alternator. Personally, I won't replace anything running around the serpentine belt until I get some noises or water leaks from WP or alternator failure.

Here's a great tool that tells you if your battery and alternator are ok.

Amazon.com: KONNWEI KW600 12V 100-2000 CCA 220AH Car Battery Load Tester Professional Automotive Alternator Analyzer - Waveform Voltage Test for Car/Boat/Motorcycle: Automotive :cheer2:

Holy Sheet! 6 lifts? Thats it, conversation is now over, case closed. From now on I will do no maintenance until it fails, whatever it is. Thank you for your thoughtful contribution. My mind has been put at ease. :der: Dope!

If my mechanic (I dont have one, cause I dont trust them) told me not to install a new part I had purchased already for normal maintenance, he’d never see me again. Im sure he would charge more for fixing a broken part than installing a maintenance item. DUMBEST THING I HAVE HEARD IN A LONG TIME.
 
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Holy Sheet! 6 lifts? Thats it, conversation is now over, case closed. From now on I will do no maintenance until it fails, whatever it is. Thank you for your thoughtful contribution. My mind has been put at ease. :der: Dope!

If my mechanic (I dont have one, cause I dont trust them) told me not to install a new part I had purchased already for normal maintenance, he’d never see me again. Im sure he would charge more for fixing a broken part than installing a maintenance item. DUMBEST THING I HAVE HEARD IN A LONG TIME.

He is the living example of the quote often attributed to Mark Twain regarding keeping ones mouth shut and letting people think or opening ones mouth and removing all doubt.
The entertaining aspect is his complete confidence in his ignorance.
I hope that a newcomer to this forum does not apply ANY of his, ahem, “advice”.
He/his=Captsolo
 
You are a champion OP.

Thank you thank you for posting this up!

Great tutorial! Saves me mega $$

Thanks MidwestJ

I attended Ohio State long ago but will be watching them play for the National Championship tomorrow.

Here's the champion that got me to go to OSU. Some records will never be broken? Maybe?

Thomas Azzara on LinkedIn: Charlie Schlegel died on June 30, 2019. He was 89. During his 25

:fishing:

BTW Mr. Toyoda's son knows and loves SK's Youtube videos too. I've watched them all!

Captsolo I hope you do realize that MidwestJ was thanking the person that started this topic waaay back in 2011 for his tutorial on replacing the belt...not you for posting a Scotty video..... it is apparent because he used the acronym OP....for "original poster"???
 
Does anyone have the pulley part numbers for a 5th Gen 2015. I tried looking at the parts list on line it does have the part numbers but not too specific on which pulley is which location. I live in the North East I think between the snow and beach sand both my idler above the tensioner and the tensioner pulley are both on the way out and was just going to replace all the idler pulleys. Those two I can wiggle with my hand. Thanks
 
Does anyone have the pulley part numbers for a 5th Gen 2015. I tried looking at the parts list on line it does have the part numbers but not too specific on which pulley is which location. I live in the North East I think between the snow and beach sand both my idler above the tensioner and the tensioner pulley are both on the way out and was just going to replace all the idler pulleys. Those two I can wiggle with my hand. Thanks


You’re in the 4th Gen section.
 
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rib count

There are 7 ribs/teeth on the factory belt yes? I just looked at mine and only counted 6. Looked slightly narrower too (did not span across the entire pulley). Shop put on a different belt when they put in a new alternator?
 
This can be the ultimate Stealership rip off job -- my local wanted about $250 to change the drive belt. I asked how much the belt cost (knowing they're about $30, and knowing it's probably a 10 minute job for a trained mechanic with a lift), and the BS, vague reply was "yeah they can be quite expensive" :crazy:
 
Finally got it done. I had to use a hollow jack bar to get enough leverage to turn the tensioner enough to get the belt on. Thanks for the write up!
 
Finally got it done. I had to use a hollow jack bar to get enough leverage to turn the tensioner enough to get the belt on. Thanks for the write up!

For future reference (and anyone who is in this thread looking for tips), some of the auto parts stores that lend tools have a tensioner thing kind of like a breaker bar that makes it really easy to move it as needed. Of course, I didn't realize that until after I did mine. :doh:
 
Tensioner and Belt replacement

I have read it is recommended to replace the tensioner and belt together at the same time. Is something people actually do for regular maintenance ?
 
Bearings only versus new tnesioners/pulleys

I have read it is recommended to replace the tensioner and belt together at the same time. Is something people actually do for regular maintenance ?

My recommendation is a bit different that that:

With the old belt removed, before putting on the new belt, verify that the idler pulleys and tensioner spin smoothly when spun by hand. (No "grabbing", no axial "shaking", and no "twisting looseness" while making that rotational "spin" test.)

In the case of some other vehicles (especially Subaru SUVs), the BEARINGS within idler pulleys and tensioner often become worn out more quickly than the belt. (Many Subaru "broken and torn belts" have been in fact been caused by bearings in the pulleys or idler locking up or developing "wiggles" in the wrong orientation.)

The angles of the 1GR-FE belt against the idler pulleys are less severe than the angles in most Subaru engines. But force applied against the tensioner bearing is only slightly less (than the force in those failure-prone Subarus. I would expect to see signs of bearing failure, at least within the tensioner, in all cases of belt replacement - and I would plan accordingly, buying replacement bearing before actual confirming that they are needed.

In nearly all cases of failng belt idlers and tensioners, you can replace just the bearings rather than buy the entire assembly. Bearings cost about $3 each, while a "new tensioner" is probably around $90 (I haven't looked.) But it's sometimes hard to find the right size at a local store, and Stealerships prefer to sell the more costly "big" part. The bearing part #5203, a double-row shielded bearing. # 6203 also fits, with mere rubber shielding, those cost much less.
 

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