If you replace the tensioner pulley bearing ($9 from Napa and less than 15mins of work) you should get a minimum of 150k miles out of the tensioner...probably more.
DIY: Changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners
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If you replace the tensioner pulley bearing ($9 from Napa and less than 15mins of work) you should get a minimum of 150k miles out of the tensioner...probably more.
Old post, but helped me out today. Thanks!
Anyone know if replacing the tensioner pulley is as simple as removing the bolt holding it on? The pulley itself (with bearing) is available locally for cheap and wanted to replace mine as it is grinding unloaded and screeches while running (I know there was a TSB). I've read that the bolt is reverse threaded, but had so many windows open regarding this that I can't find it anymore.
Anyone know if replacing the tensioner pulley is as simple as removing the bolt holding it on? The pulley itself (with bearing) is available locally for cheap and wanted to replace mine as it is grinding unloaded and screeches while running (I know there was a TSB). I've read that the bolt is reverse threaded, but had so many windows open regarding this that I can't find it anymore.
sonerick
New member
Yep, you got it. Reverse threaded, re-torque to 27 ft-lbs I believe.
If you wanted to replace the tensioner as a whole, you would have to get the ac compressor out of the way. pita.
Timing belt there are specific marks on the cam pulley's and the crank pulley that have to line up. This i NOT a timing belt.
First off this vehicle has a timing chain. The V8 has a timing belt.
A timing belt is used to ensure cam(s) and crankshaft are positioned correctly so that when the engine turns over the valves open and close at the proper position of the associated piston. A timing chain has the same function as a belt except that it's a chain and needs to be lubricated. But they do the exact same function. You must know exactly what you're doing to replace a timing belt...especially on a interference engine. If not you'll end up destroying your engine.
This belt is called the drive belt. It just controls things like AC, power-steering and alternator.
scottm
New member
How hard to get the bearing pressed out? I recently did the timing belt on my Land Cruiser, had new bearings for the idlers, but they were all pressed in blind. No access the back side of the bearing race to push it out without destroying the pulley.
I see an idler pulley at Autozone for $72, would rather press in bearings.
Do you have the bearing number?
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sonerick
New member
FWIW, rock auto has all of the pulleys cheap. I replaced all 3 idler pulleys and tensioner pulley for about $150 shipped. See here: Idler Pulley/Bearing Failure, what to do: - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum. Note this is for the 1GR-FE only.
Definitely cheaper to just replace the bearings, but if you don't have access to a press then this works.
Oh, and sweet avatar Dude!
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scottm
New member
Thanks, I have a variety of presses at work, small to massive, I put in bearings quite often and know the tricks. Getting them out without damaging the part is usually harder than getting them in. If I have the bearing measurements or part number I'll have them on hand when I get to this job, see if it's possible to replace them.
sonerick
New member
I have the old pulleys since I just did the swap recently, and the bearings do look press-able (real word?).
Found this site when I was doing the research on which pulleys to get, might be of some help sourcing the bearings: Replacing the serpentine belt Idler Pulley Bearings.! 1GR-FE. Seems like a lot of guys with the Prado's and FJ's deal with this often.
Found this site when I was doing the research on which pulleys to get, might be of some help sourcing the bearings: Replacing the serpentine belt Idler Pulley Bearings.! 1GR-FE. Seems like a lot of guys with the Prado's and FJ's deal with this often.
scottm
New member
It looks like the three idlers take bearings 42mm OD x 10mm ID x width unknown. I don't see bearings that size online, in the link guys are making spacers to adapt to a more common bearing. I think I'd source or make pulleys if I'm going to fabricate something. The belt looks easy to remove, so I can get a pulley off to measure it easy enough.
The tensioner pulley is apparently a common bearing, still waiting to hear the size.
The tensioner pulley is apparently a common bearing, still waiting to hear the size.
Just did my belt - 107,000 miles
At 107k, I decided it was time. My input is
1. Take off the lower engine cover and work from under the vehicle.
2. before you lay down lightly set a 6mm Allan wrench in the lockback hole. Then when you are under it, you can pull down with a ratchet to release tension, then with your second hand, you can push the 6mm in to lock the tensioner.
I liked this better then trying to manipulate the new belt (which is stiff) and the tensioner at the same time. The old belt easily slips off, then Route new belt, release the tension on the 6mm Allan, pull it out and done.
DOUBLE CHECK the belt is in the proper grooves, just in case. 4 bolts to put the lower engine cover back on.
20 min total for me. First time I've done this.
At 107k, I decided it was time. My input is
1. Take off the lower engine cover and work from under the vehicle.
2. before you lay down lightly set a 6mm Allan wrench in the lockback hole. Then when you are under it, you can pull down with a ratchet to release tension, then with your second hand, you can push the 6mm in to lock the tensioner.
I liked this better then trying to manipulate the new belt (which is stiff) and the tensioner at the same time. The old belt easily slips off, then Route new belt, release the tension on the 6mm Allan, pull it out and done.
DOUBLE CHECK the belt is in the proper grooves, just in case. 4 bolts to put the lower engine cover back on.
20 min total for me. First time I've done this.
stevec5000
New member
That was a lot easier to do than I thought! I think it's a good idea to spin the idler pulleys, generator and water pump while you have the belt off to check how all their bearings feel to tell if any need to be replaced. Has anyone tried to change bearings in the generator yet? Does it also use bearings you can't buy anywhere like my old Mitsubishi did? The one at the front was a standard size but the one at the back was a smaller size that wasn't available anywhere and that's the one that always went bad. I hope the Toyota isn't the same way.
paperbrakepad
New member
good job
Thanks! Planning to replace mine. Currently at 120k miles!:llama:
Thanks! Planning to replace mine. Currently at 120k miles!:llama:
riceandpho
Elite Member
I think v8 uses a timming belt, since most people do water pump and timing belt at the same time.
yeauxkna_at
New member
Wow!!! Thank you. Can anyone find a vid for changing the water pump? Pics/vid/parts?
I want to do this and replace any seals suggested. My valve cover gaskets are minor leak. Ant other recommended seals, etc would be helpful also.
I want to do this and replace any seals suggested. My valve cover gaskets are minor leak. Ant other recommended seals, etc would be helpful also.
ViperNL
New member
Just the wife's at 128k. She didn't know if it was ever done before (owned the truck since 15k miles and before I met her). Just had the recall done and the dealership indicated that there was a little wear, so I figured I'd just tackle it to be safe 
.
It's a fairly easy job, next time I'll try it from the bottom (if I remember by then, hehe)
. It's a fairly easy job, next time I'll try it from the bottom (if I remember by then, hehe)
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