DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)

[BigNuge]

You've got it! We can figure out some time to do it.

I've been meaning to talk to you anyways about something I'd like to buy from ya.... I has the monies now [MENTION=98468]BigNuge[/MENTION]

Shoot me a text dude....I'm around all week & weekend.

 

[Captain Texas]

Looks great!

 

[emelianenkov]

Looks great!

Thanks man! It was fun figuring it out

 

[hearno]

My 12v mod looked incredible tonight! And it dims beautifully

I searched and couldn't find much. Is the 12v mod the constant on power mod or something different? I'm hoping to have my gauges to you by september so I'm trying to get all the info I need to do it.

 

[emelianenkov]

I searched and couldn't find much. Is the 12v mod the constant on power mod or something different? I'm hoping to have my gauges to you by september so I'm trying to get all the info I need to do it.

Nothing you need to do. I do everything on my side of things. I streamlined the 12v mod

 

[CookieRoe]

Ladies (you non-modders) & Gentlemen, I give you.....

[MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] , Alex's work: 12V "integrated" MOD for HVAC. Pretty sure I'm the first 12V mod INTEGRATED (with amber bulbs) member on here......

Cluster (not the 12V mod, but mentionable)

12V mod with NEO4 xHP bulbs (amber). Integrated, so this is plug and play. A first!!

At night: WOW!! Very nice. Day: Still dim, BUT, the reverse polarization mod does make the screen BLACK, so to make the digits stand out, you will apparently need 1.21 gigawatts of power. So if you have Plutonium readily available, I recommend added power.

I'll post night shots later.

Thanks again Alex!! As usual, superb workmanship!!! :hail:

 

[emelianenkov]

[MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] , Alex's work: 12V "integrated" MOD for HVAC. Pretty sure I'm the first 12V mod INTEGRATED (with amber bulbs) member on here......

Cluster (not the 12V mod, but mentionable)

12V mod with NEO4 xHP bulbs (amber). Integrated, so this is plug and play. A first!!

At night: WOW!! Very nice. Day: Still dim, BUT, the reverse polarization mod does make the screen BLACK, so to make the digits stand out, you will apparently need 1.21 gigawatts of power. So if you have Plutonium readily available, I recommend added power.

I'll post night shots later.

Thanks again Alex!! As usual, superb workmanship!!! :hail:

Thanks again for the kind words man!

And you forgot to mention the reverse polarization mod on your odometer lol

 

[CookieRoe]

12V mod not enough??

Some days shots, as mentioned, still very dim:

Reverse Polarization mod to ODO using amber LED

Night shot as promised:

Some Thoughts:

Day vision continues to be dim. If this is the end result of the 12V mod WHILE using NEO4 xHP bulbs, and there are 2 of them, then a more drastic mod is needed?? Maybe fabricating a rectangular board of SMT or PLCC LEDs (note: bright as hell) and placing it behind the LCD display will lighten it to a respectable brightness during the day. As it stands, for night driving, the brightness is just about perfect. However, having a "fabricated rectangular LED board" behind the display will probably be way too bright for night driving. I'm thinking have a circuit come on to power this "board" while lights (parking, headlights) are turned off, but turn off when vehicle lights are turned on. I'm no engineer, but no doubt this can be possible. I don't have the know-how to do something like that, so I'll just leave it at. Maybe someone else can draw up a schematic and actually fab something up...............? Anyway an "LED Board" like this:

 

[emelianenkov]

Some days shots, as mentioned, still very dim:

Reverse Polarization mod to ODO using amber LED

Night shot as promised:

Some Thoughts:

Day vision continues to be dim. If this is the end result of the 12V mod WHILE using NEO4 xHP bulbs, and there are 2 of them, then a more drastic mod is needed?? Maybe fabricating a rectangular board of SMT or PLCC LEDs (note: bright as hell) and placing it behind the LCD display will lighten it to a respectable brightness during the day. As it stands, for night driving, the brightness is just about perfect. However, having a "fabricated rectangular LED board" behind the display will probably be way too bright for night driving. I'm thinking have a circuit come on to power this "board" while lights (parking, headlights) are turned off, but turn off when vehicle lights are turned on. I'm no engineer, but no doubt this can be possible. I don't have the know-how to do something like that, so I'll just leave it at. Maybe someone else can draw up a schematic and actually fab something up...............? Anyway an "LED Board" like this:

Ed, you don't wanna do that....

I spent 2 months trying to reengineer the backlighting for this Ford Taurus gauge bezel

My customer wanted all blue in his interior, but after months of trying, I put the stock LED background lights in for the screen, talked him into a reverse polarization to cut down on how much of the stock green color is left, and swapped the buttons to blue.

It just wasn't feasible to make it light up evenly without hot and dead spots.

Food and frustrations for thoughts

 

[emelianenkov]

However, I DO have a spare HVAC that I could offer up for surgery/experimentation

 

[CookieRoe]

Hmmmmm, good input.........

Ed, you don't wanna do that....

I spent 2 months trying to reengineer the backlighting for this Ford Taurus gauge bezel

It just wasn't feasible to make it light up evenly without hot and dead spots.

Food and frustrations for thoughts

If you have a board covering basically the whole area of the display, maybe you can reduce dead/hot spots?

However, I DO have a spare HVAC that I could offer up for surgery/experimentation

No doubt that to do this mod, an HVAC would have be to opened up, then cut up to fit this "supposed" board. I'm not sure sacrificing your spare at this moment in time is worth it. Would be fun though.............. :rofl:

Aaaaah, modding........................ isn't it a b*tch?? Hahahah

 

[emelianenkov]

If you have a board covering basically the whole area of the display, maybe you can reduce dead/hot spots?







No doubt that to do this mod, an HVAC would have be to opened up, then cut up to fit this "supposed" board. I'm not sure sacrificing your spare at this moment in time is worth it. Would be fun though.............. :rofl:



Aaaaah, modding........................ isn't it a b*tch?? Hahahah

With the plcc LEDs it's really tricky.

I've parted out most of the good things from that hvac anyway so I don't mind an experiment

 

[CookieRoe]

With the plcc LEDs it's really tricky.

I've parted out most of the good things from that hvac anyway so I don't mind an experiment

Do I smell a "12V MOD 2.0"????

 

[emelianenkov]

Do I smell a "12V MOD 2.0"????

If it's funded by

I'm game

 

[cmandrews13]

Thank you all for the great information in this post. I am relativly new to the forumand to my 4runner (2months). I have started doing the LED changes to most of my lighting and since I have a few bulbs out on my HVAC controls figured I would jump there next. Can anyone break down how many Neo3 and Neo 4 I will need for this. I have a 2007 Limited with Dual controls. Looking forward to being able to get rid of all the orange with Alex's help in the future.

 

[emelianenkov]

Thank you all for the great information in this post. I am relativly new to the forumand to my 4runner (2months). I have started doing the LED changes to most of my lighting and since I have a few bulbs out on my HVAC controls figured I would jump there next. Can anyone break down how many Neo3 and Neo 4 I will need for this. I have a 2007 Limited with Dual controls. Looking forward to being able to get rid of all the orange with Alex's help in the future.

7 neo3 and 2 neo4

 

[emelianenkov]

And I'm looking forward to your business in the future!

 

[preacher35]

At night: WOW!! Very nice. Day: Still dim, BUT, the reverse polarization mod does make the screen BLACK, so to make the digits stand out, you will apparently need 1.21 gigawatts of power. So if you have Plutonium readily available, I recommend added power.

I'll post night shots later.

Thanks again Alex!! As usual, superb workmanship!!! :hail:

Um, Doc Brown called and said that you need to attach a Mr. Fusion power pack to your flux capacitor and you should have no problem reaching 1.21 JIGOWATTS. Oh, he mentioned something about lightning striking your 4Runner, but I do not think that would be too good for your ECM.

 

[emelianenkov]

Damn modern onboard computers...

 

[CookieRoe]

Um, Doc Brown called and said that you need to attach a Mr. Fusion power pack to your flux capacitor and you should have no problem reaching 1.21 JIGOWATTS. Oh, he mentioned something about lightning striking your 4Runner, but I do not think that would be too good for your ECM.

Duly noted!

Damn modern onboard computers...

sure would make your 6 speed tranny swap a lot easier!! LOL