From the top...if you're arms are long enough
I was able to replace my fog light bulbs by reaching down from the top. You can see the back of the bulbs from the top, so if you're arm is long enough give that a try. you don't even need to remove the front engine cover.
You can't really see what you're doing but if you know how to disconnect the bulb, then it's quite easy to remove and install a new one. Just make sure you don't drop the bulb.
It took about 10 mins for both bulbs (that included time to figure out where to reach down from the top).