Do I sawzall my radiator in half for you'all

There is a post on Yotatech a couple years ago where a guy cut open his rad. So I've known for a long while how small the rad cooler is. Every time I hear people say how much better the in rad cooler is than my 70268 or other air coolers I just laugh. Yeah, I realize it's liquid to liquid... 170+ coolant to 200+ trans fluid... ha ha ha
 
C&R's smallest cooler is rated at 1161 BTU per min. I'm pretty sure that the BM ones are rated in btu per hour. I'm still trying to conform the bm spec.
 
There is a post on Yotatech a couple years ago where a guy cut open his rad. So I've known for a long while how small the rad cooler is. Every time I hear people say how much better the in rad cooler is than my 70268 or other air coolers I just laugh. Yeah, I realize it's liquid to liquid... 170+ coolant to 200+ trans fluid... ha ha ha

I Know!

I remember doing heat transfer calculations in chemistry and physics classes. it shouldn't be too hard to figure out which is more effective.

The thing about the rad cooler is the pieces seem to be press fit welded. I imagine a T spike could easily warp it to leak. Plus as I said there was some stagnant ATF in mine

But then again vehicles have been using the method for decades with no problems per se... just those 3rd gens or what?

W
 
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As far as external vs in rad cooling goes, its all about heat transfer coefficients.

Heat transfer coefficient for some common fluids:

Air - 10 to 100 W/m2K
Water - 500 to 10 000 W/m2K

Air is a poor conductor when compared to a liquid.
 
Ok -Ok -looks like saw will come out,give me time to post but I will sucumb to the peer pressure! Also will give it 12 gauge and 20 gauge shots to see how it holds up to gunfire(yet more science ,no:sniper: fun).
 
As far as external vs in rad cooling goes, its all about heat transfer coefficients.

Heat transfer coefficient for some common fluids:

Air - 10 to 100 W/m2K
Water - 500 to 10 000 W/m2K

Air is a poor conductor when compared to a liquid.

Well there it is, the math doesn't lie... I mean that is why we are using the liqued to cool our engines in the first place vs. air cooled engines.

As for which method to use for cooling your ATF, IMO, it boils down to how afraid of the pink milk shake you are. If you want to lean more towards safety, do the bypass with the B&M and eliminate any chance of a pink milk shake, but I would get a trans guage to watch temps. If you want to have top cooling performace, it doesn't hurt to add the air cooled unit to the already efficient water cooled unit in the radiator (though replacing the radiator to a new one is always advisable too).

MY point with the C&R stuff above was just to show you it was actually not a punny cooler when compair to air, because they are apples and oranges. I mean if you look at the factory one vs. the C&R it actually looks like a bigger liquid cooler (no science behind this, just looking at pictures). I mean in a perfect world it might be advisable to bypass the stock trans cooler and put an inline liquide cooler like above on your rig, get the benifit of the liqued cooling and no risk of the milk shake, but it does seem like a lot of work... I personally am still stock and deciding what to do... though I am leaning towards replacing the stock radiator, and doing the B&M combo instead of bypass.
 
Not sure how these work. A quick google found little to explain. While they maybe efective they are being "cooled" with 180°-200° water compared to even extreme 110° ambient T, not counting wind chill and surface area.

Just yesterday I was a strong advocate for NOT by passing this puny cooler (before I realized how puny it is!) Now I'm not so sure. I can't imagine it adding much to the cooling system in exchange for strawberry milkshakes...I just put in a new radiator and B&M in circuit... may try it with just the air cooled.

Is std. OBD II transmit trans T? I have an ELM transmitter and an iPhone but can't find an app that reads trans T...for less than $50...

W
being cooled...yes. but, better is that it will have an easier job of maintaining that temp. keeping it AT 190 is much better than being able to cool it down from 240.


also, ive been told to not use a stand alone trans cooler. the fluid can run too cold in cooler temps. apparently that's also not so good for the transmission. I have no idea.

ive been using a stand alone on my wheeling truck for years now. MOST of my wheeling is in the winter, in the deep snow. I haven't noticed any issues.

I also have the cooler mounted in the rear, so its not getting direct airflow. but it does have its own fans.
 
My cummins uses a shell and tube heat exchanger under the exhaust manifold. I'd love to come across another one for use on other vehicles.
 
Dear OP. You are a jerk.

I will retract my statement if and when you post the pictures of your radiator cut in half.
 
I don't think we'll be able to see anything about why the milkshake happens by sawing it apart. It happens most likely at the orings. Possibly a small pinhole or crack in the cooler core itself, doubtful we'd be able to find it after sawing it up.
 
Hey Hey Hey dont be haters! With three kids,football games- wife -etc etc work in gargage is usually "all ahead SLOW",fear not last nite got new one in and after I run it a day with no leaks the old one WILL be cut up and then gracefully blown apart with the ol remington 870 12 gauge,till then -your gonna have to wait. guess in retrospect shoulda started this thread AFTER i had pics HAHA.
 
IMG_2659.jpgSludge in bottom
 

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You can see the exchanger has a fine mess inside for gunk to accumulate on the tranny fluid side,also note the tran line connection corrosion beginning.That is where Im assuming pink milkshake is born,rest of inside of rad had only light tan film,no flaky white stuff anywhere,freakishly clean!
 

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