Hey Mike, I had one more question. If I wanted to lift the rear 2 inches would I still be ok with the 505 and 705s or do I have to order the 2" springs (325s)?
Dobinsons IMS Struts and Shocks - Adjustable Height Monotubes - 5th Gen 4Runners
- Thread starter Crikeymike
- Start date
Hey Mike, I had one more question. If I wanted to lift the rear 2 inches would I still be ok with the 505 and 705s or do I have to order the 2" springs (325s)?
Crikeymike
Senior Member
The 505's are only 1.5" of lift, so if you want 2" you'll need the 325's. And the same shocks work with both of those coils.
Just a quick update for anyone considering the IMS shocks.
SPEND THE EXTRA DOLLARS AND BUY THEM!
I've got about 25K on them since installing last year, a combination of highway driving, off-roading, and city potholes.
These things have been GREAT! I did recently install my C4 Lo-Pro and winch bumper, so I needed to adjust the height (C302s with std. shocks). Based on the information from Mikes posts, I took the shocks apart (used the no compressor method with a buddy, super easy) and the threads were CHOCK FULL of mud - would have made for a bad day had I tried to just crank the perches.
Once everything was installed I looked stuff over/cleaned up the shocks - they look great, were showing no signs of bushing failure or leaks, and got re-installed.
I've likely set my ride height to the max for these (23" hub to fender now) and the ride is still wonderful, not noticing a lack of down-travel etc. Based on how I drive, I'll likely pull them off again at 60-70K and see if they are due for servicing, but I'm sure I'll end up going 90K before a rebuild happens!
SPEND THE EXTRA DOLLARS AND BUY THEM!
I've got about 25K on them since installing last year, a combination of highway driving, off-roading, and city potholes.
These things have been GREAT! I did recently install my C4 Lo-Pro and winch bumper, so I needed to adjust the height (C302s with std. shocks). Based on the information from Mikes posts, I took the shocks apart (used the no compressor method with a buddy, super easy) and the threads were CHOCK FULL of mud - would have made for a bad day had I tried to just crank the perches.
Once everything was installed I looked stuff over/cleaned up the shocks - they look great, were showing no signs of bushing failure or leaks, and got re-installed.
I've likely set my ride height to the max for these (23" hub to fender now) and the ride is still wonderful, not noticing a lack of down-travel etc. Based on how I drive, I'll likely pull them off again at 60-70K and see if they are due for servicing, but I'm sure I'll end up going 90K before a rebuild happens!
Crikeymike
Senior Member
That's really great info. Yeah, it wasn't until I saw a video of a different brand of coilover when he pulled off the coil seat and saw all the sand in there, that's when I realized just how bad it could be if you tried to crank them up before cleaning them!!
It's been years since I've done the "no compressor method" to remove some struts, but that's super effective if done right. I've had some guys though with the heavier 730LB front coils not be able to do it because the car starts to lift up when they jack up the LCA into position. They get the strut out but can't get it back in!! That's when stuff gets annoying!!
Thanks again, Mike. I am new to this stuff and really appreciate all the info you provide.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
No problem. Just remember that the front IMS are height adjustable, but for the rear, the coils are separate from the shocks and the coils themselves do the lifting while the shocks have no effect on the lift height.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
You can run the 574's up front, but in the rear, your coils will fall out potentially since they're not long travel coils. You'd use IMS59-50701's in the back unless you change out to LT rear coils, which are the only type of coils that can be ran with LT rear shocks.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
These are the 4 different LT rear coils Dobinsons offer. You'd probably be looking at the 677V's
C59-675V - Variable rate comfort option, stock rear weight, 3" lift. 470/470mm, 16mm wire, 157-230LB variable
C59-677V - Variable rate comfort option, 400+LB heavy rear load weight, 3" lift. 500/500mm, 16mm wire, 157-230LB variable
C59-701V - Variable rate, 600-700 LB heavy rear load weight, 3" lift, long travel. 500/500mm, 17mm wire, 210-245LB variable. Designed for those with heavy full rear bumper, tire carrier, roof rack, RTT, drawers, and fridge. Rides very well with all that weight, as well as when loaded even further.
C59-749V - Variable Rate, 800-1000 LB super heavy constant rear load, 3" lift, long travel. 520/520mm free height, 18mm wire, 198-300LB variable rate, usually around 270LB at loaded height
Big Daddy K
New member
Woot. Got my shipping notice today. Thanks for all the input Mike.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
No worries bud!!
BlueRidge77
New member
Maybe it’s mentioned somewhere but I missed it. What is the shock body and threads made of? I read somewhere this: “DOM seamless tubing body” which would mean steel, not aluminum. Just wanting to confirm.
(I’m asking because I would be concerned with tweaking the perch adjustment rings for height while on the truck if it was aluminum because of thread strength. I’m talking adjusting shortly after install while threads are clean to get lift right, not after 10k miles of mudding...)
(I’m asking because I would be concerned with tweaking the perch adjustment rings for height while on the truck if it was aluminum because of thread strength. I’m talking adjusting shortly after install while threads are clean to get lift right, not after 10k miles of mudding...)
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yes, they're steel bodies. The adjuster rings are aluminum, softer than the steel so that the threads get saved in case the adjuster gets jacked.
BlueRidge77
New member
Ok. Thanks. I’ll just be very careful!
I would be very careful about making any adjustments after driving more than the initial settling, without disassembling the shock and coil. I recently raised the front of my 4Runner (I added a lo-pro bumper and winch), the amount of crap behind the coil perch was astonishing. Had I tried to adjust with it on the truck I would have been in for a BAD DAY.
I think I've got my coils about maxed out for preload, I raised the mounting point approximately 5/8" higher than the recommended. I've got C302 with the standard length shocks. There does not look to be any contact of coils on full compression but it's got to be close. Just something to consider when raising the height.
Overall it was pretty quick to disassemble. If I were to adjust after a fresh install, I'd make sure to drop a bit of oil on the threads (before would likely be a good move) to help the adjusting rings move easier.
Good luck!
BlueRidge77
New member
Thanks for the heads up. I’m still waiting on my kit to be delivered, but preparing. I was thinking of only increasing the lift above the amount of the spring in the range of 1/2” to 3/4” (296 spring which is 1.5” so I should achieve 2” to 2.25” lift) which would mean a perch adjustment of approximately 1/4” to 3/8” in the beginning. I was thinking of running past that a little and shoot for 1” additional lift which is 1/2” above the minimum setting on the shock, then lowering as needed after initial settling. That way, I’m reducing preload and not fighting the spring as much. Make sense? Wouldn’t that be easier than raising it more...? The threads could be cleaned as well since the rings will be lowered. And I have access to those threads unlike raising where the threads are hidden behind the perch.
I think you have a great game plan. Setting the perches 1/2" high will give you approximately an extra 1" of lift, go drive it hard for a few hundred miles and then get your hub to fender measurements. It will be TALL at first, but things settle.
I like the idea of lowering the adjustment rings rather than raising them, I think you'll have better luck. You can lower the bottom ring the amount you want, then do the top ring. Still do them separately as they are acting as a "double nut". I wouldn't be surprised if you end up liking the 2.5" lift up front and leave it - what did you go with for coils in the rear?
BlueRidge77
New member
Rears are 505’s which are 1.5” but it seems the consensus is an actual 2” in reality. We'll see. I was hoping to reduce the factory rake by at least 1/2” to 3/4”, but it will be hard to reduce it by 1/2” I guess.
How is your ride quality after putting so much preload on it? Still good? I went with the IMS because they are progressively tuned, which should provide a compliant ride. They are also large enough to stay cool for my usage.
I think with the 505s you'll be very happy raising the front more - my buddy has 302/505 combo and it looked perfect for rake.
I've noticed ZERO change in ride with the preload - I had about 25K on the shocks / coils before adjusting (I drive a lot). I've taken it wheeling since raising the front, also no disenable difference. For the rears, I've got the C725s (C325 with built in offset for KDSS) which were supposed to be approximately 2" in the rear - they are holding around 2.5", which is why I ended up wanting to bump the front up more.
Once I get my roof rack and RTT things might change again, but I'll assess at that time! My hub to fender measurements are 23.0" F / 24.3" R.
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