eBay uniball control arms?
- Thread starter Troymclure
- Start date
07V8
Member
There is also some pitting in that weld.
Troymclure
New member
That isnt right, flip the two misallignment spacers, so the one with the conical part is on the bottom.
Yup that way makes sense. Dust cap will fit this way.
When assembled this way the second washer provided is left out... It doesn't make sense for it to go on the top.. Maybe it was for the older bolt design.
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DisguisedRope
New member
I got my ebay uniball UCAs, and as mentioned the sleeves in the bushings are still too short. I've seen a few people mention that they added washers to fix this issue, but no one has any pics of how they are accomplishing it. Are y'all getting washers the same size (I.D. and O.D.) as the sleeve and putting them between the supplied big washers and the sleeve (inside the end of the poly bushing)??
I know the other solution is to grind down the bushings until flush with the sleeves, but I don't have easy access to a grinder so I'd prefer the washer method if I can figure out exactly what it is.
I know the other solution is to grind down the bushings until flush with the sleeves, but I don't have easy access to a grinder so I'd prefer the washer method if I can figure out exactly what it is.
having fun
New member
That would make sense, add flat washer same size as inner sleeve.
The idea is to have the sleeve the same length as the bushings, the large outer washer is to cover/protect it while assembled and operating on the vehicle.
So if sleeve is to short bushing gets compressed.
DisguisedRope
New member
Yea, it does make sense. But what makes sense in my head doesn't always work out in practice haha. So I am just trying to get a confirmation that this is what worked for other people.
having fun
New member
Besides if the bushing sticks out farther when you torque the bolts down, they would rub when compressed. Arms won't move easily.
Just make sure to add grease to the ends also, you can wipe off the excess after you run them.
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robaroni
New member
Yes, that is how I did it. Pushed the sleeve all the way to one side of the bushing. This leaves all the extra space on one side. then put the washer in that space. I used a little grease to hold it in place while I was sliding the long bolt into place. About 7500 mile and still looking and functioning great.
subspd
New member
Anyone know the correct size washer for the bushing... What I have realized is I have run mine for a year without the proper torque spec and the other day I heard a clunk up front and the passenger side bolt was loose started to tighten it down and can't get it to spec without crushing the bushing. Now I know what everyone else has been talking about the sleeve being too short. Since I am going to have to pull mine all apart, going to upgrade uniball bolt to grade 8 as well, I could really use help with the right washer size.
Once I have the thing taken apart I will be stranded... Thanks!
Oh I have added almost 30k miles on mine since February and besides this little issue have no problems. I did replace one of the zerk fittings and I am happy they come with grade 8 hardware... just wish mine had. I still wipe down the uni-ball and spray some dry lube on every month or so and all is well.
Once I have the thing taken apart I will be stranded... Thanks!
Oh I have added almost 30k miles on mine since February and besides this little issue have no problems. I did replace one of the zerk fittings and I am happy they come with grade 8 hardware... just wish mine had. I still wipe down the uni-ball and spray some dry lube on every month or so and all is well.
DisguisedRope
New member
So maybe s dumb question, but how do you remove the sleeve/bushings from the ucas? Every time it is mentioned to remove them, it's just done in passing. It never says how to. Is there something simple I'm missing trying to get them out?
DisguisedRope
New member
Push harder
Mine were pretty tight and there dry. If all else fails hit the grease zerks with a grease gun and the pressure might push one side of the urathane bushings out. I think I used an old bolt as a drift and a hammer.
Are you just like pushing with your hand? I tried hammering them out and they weren't budging do I stopped
Park
New member
[MENTION=115479]Stocky3[/MENTION] which ebay seller did you buy these from, lift.otion(4242) or suspension.marketplace(7404) I would like to get the updated arms as well, these are the only ones I can find.
New Silver Upper Control Arm Tacoma 4 Runner 96 04 2WD 4WD Lift Kit | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Silver-...ash=item4d336016b4:g:ThIAAOSwBLlVcJaC&vxp=mtr
New Silver Upper Control Arm Tacoma 4 Runner 96 04 2WD 4WD Lift Kit | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Silver-...ash=item4d336016b4:g:ThIAAOSwBLlVcJaC&vxp=mtr
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Suspension marketplace are the guys I bought from. I don't have a tone of miles on them yet, but they seem good so far.
TotalAutomotiveLV
New member
Why not just get ProComp arms? We sell them for 440 a pair, with uniball caps. They are supposedly made by Camburg.
Link?
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